Nikon D5xxx Owners Thread

phil8139 said:
Sorry, do you mean me for the 35mm? I have it, it's a cracker but only used it for basketball. Great lens though :nuts:

Phil
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I do mate, comeon....lets see its magic;) Theres actually a thread named 35mm f1.8 test shot around here and its smokin! Half the price of the 50mm f1.4 aswell.......:thinking:
Phil
 
They look nice and clear. I'm having a family bash tomorrow so I'm going to test out the lens without flash.
 
Bigvin said:
Well to look at it, it looks exactly the same as John's Link

Don't worry about being ham-fisted. If ever someone was going to break it, it would be me. :D

Take your time and it just slides out at 45 degrees. There is a compartment in the grip to put your battery cover so you can go back to a single battery setup whenever you want.
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I've now given it a go and can concur it's actually not *that* difficult to remove! :)

What's the performance and ease of use like? I note that John's one doesn't have a vertical shutter release, which I think is one of the main advantages to having this attachment.
 
GIZTO29 said:
... you cant turn the screen so that it faces you if you wanted to take a portrait of yourself ...
Phil
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Bit of a flaw in the logic of a swivel screen really. But it's not overly hard to make a gadget to fix it.

Bend a bit of thick ally strip into a rectangle, screw/rivet the corner to make it rigid. Put a 1/4" Whitworth wingbolt in the top to fit to the base of the camera, and similar nut (or cut the thread) in the base to fit to the tripod.

Voila - a nice little window through which the swivelled screen can show forwards.

Self_Portrait_Bracket.JPG


If you're not worried about centres of gravity and ultimate rigidity etc., a much simpler one to make would be to use a simple flat strip and have the camera offset from the tripod head. The screen then just hangs below the strip. Also gives a wider viewing angle.

If you're at all handy, give it a go - it works well. :thumbs:
 
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stevek said:
................. I note that John's one doesn't have a vertical shutter release, which I think is one of the main advantages to having this attachment.
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the 'main' advantage to me was is seemed to balance the combo better

then of course people will say 'well you have you left hand under the lens anyway'.....:shrug:

i DID NOT like the idea of an external jump wire - if it's gonna catch - it will

I generally shoot landscape orientation so no worries - or "Landscapes" when i use the remote release Nikon £13
 
phil8139 said:
here are 2 I took with the 35mm, sorry about the name across, lifted from my Flickr......:D






a quickr pickr post

Phil
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Theyre great Phil:thumbs:

Imagical said:
Bit of a flaw in the logic of a swivel screen really. But it's not overly hard to make a gadget to fix it.

Bend a bit of thick ally strip into a rectangle, screw/rivet the corner to make it rigid. Put a 1/4" Whitworth wingbolt in the top to fit to the base of the camera, and similar nut (or cut the thread) in the base to fit to the tripod.

Voila - a nice little window through which the swivelled screen can show forwards.

Self_Portrait_Bracket.JPG


If you're not worried about centres of gravity and ultimate rigidity etc., a much simpler one to make would be to use a simple flat strip and have the camera offset from the tripod head. The screen then just hangs below the strip. Also gives a wider viewing angle.

If you're at all handy, give it a go - it works well. :thumbs:
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Very tidy!

Just lost another auction on Ebay for a 18-70!:bang:
Phil
 
Purple Haze said:
a few 18-70's have just been sold in the nikon for sale section, keep your eye on that section as things pop up and sell fairly quick.
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Im watching that many my heads spinning but i have to say im getting bored with it now. Wait 3 days then get out bid. One went for £121 earlier for gods sake. Theyve been going for £80 all week and the one i just missed out on went for £79.71.:bang:
Phil
 
GIZTO29 said:
Im watching that many my heads spinning but i have to say im getting bored with it now. Wait 3 days then get out bid. One went for £121 earlier for gods sake. Theyve been going for £80 all week and the one i just missed out on went for £79.71.:bang:
Phil
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lol ;) i havent got to that stage yet, still looking for the best deal on a d90.
 
Purple Haze said:
lol ;) i havent got to that stage yet, still looking for the best deal on a d90.
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I wish someone would just put buy it now aswell as the auction.
 
I'm thinking of turning back button focusing off and putting it back to half pressing the shutter. Reason being is some of my recent photos of people have been out of focus and I'm sure it's down to this.

Also how many of you have the ISO set to auto? I have turned this on to save me worrying about what I need to set it to in low light/indoor shots. As the standard is ISO 200 I'm wondering how many use ISO 100 as well?
 
Pezza4u said:
I'm thinking of turning back button focusing off and putting it back to half pressing the shutter. Reason being is some of my recent photos of people have been out of focus and I'm sure it's down to this.

Also how many of you have the ISO set to auto? I have turned this on to save me worrying about what I need to set it to in low light/indoor shots. As the standard is ISO 200 I'm wondering how many use ISO 100 as well?
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I have mine set to 200 most of the time but have went to 800 for a few of the shots of my cat with the fisheye where the room was quite dark. By 100 do you mean the Lo setting?
BTW all is well on the 18-70 front. I won this one in a n auction last night and its at a great price if its as described.
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI....740091&ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT#ht_500wt_1156
Baring in mind one went for £132 a few hours before!
Cant wiat to get it and my bag now.....:D
Phil
 
Rich are you sure its the back button focusing thats wrong, because my shutter wont fire unless I have focused first, so what shutter speed are you using?.

Indoor's it depends on how good the lighting is, you could be looking at 400/800 upwards.

Also take a look at the ISO sensitivity option. I am going to give it a try at the rugby on Saturday.
 
Pezza4u said:
I'm thinking of turning back button focusing off and putting it back to half pressing the shutter. Reason being is some of my recent photos of people have been out of focus and I'm sure it's down to this.

Also how many of you have the ISO set to auto? I have turned this on to save me worrying about what I need to set it to in low light/indoor shots. As the standard is ISO 200 I'm wondering how many use ISO 100 as well?
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have you back-button focused on someone then moved the camera
if you are indoors at f2.8 your DOF will be small

set mine to ISO 200 but enable the sensitivity menu to max 1600ISO and min shutter 1/100sec
 
Yardbent said:
jammy bujjer - I didn't even see this one ....well done though....:razz:...;)
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I'll wait till ive inspected it before thinking that but so far im feeling very happy!
Phil
 
GIZTO29 said:
I have mine set to 200 most of the time but have went to 800 for a few of the shots of my cat with the fisheye where the room was quite dark. By 100 do you mean the Lo setting?
BTW all is well on the 18-70 front. I won this one in a n auction last night and its at a great price if its as described.
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI....740091&ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT#ht_500wt_1156
Baring in mind one went for £132 a few hours before!
Cant wiat to get it and my bag now.....:D
Phil
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Yes the Lo setting is what I'm referring to, I think there are a couple of settings but I'm not sure which is which though, still waiting for my book to turn up.

Well done with the lens, I never saw that one :thumbs:

AFC said:
Rich are you sure its the back button focusing thats wrong, because my shutter wont fire unless I have focused first, so what shutter speed are you using?.

Indoor's it depends on how good the lighting is, you could be looking at 400/800 upwards.

Also take a look at the ISO sensitivity option. I am going to give it a try at the rugby on Saturday.
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I've noticed that mine won't fire until it's in focus as well, sometimes I need to hold down the back button to get it to fire...maybe that's the problem? I had the camera set to P mode yesterday as I was at a christening and didn't want to stuff any of the shots up!

I'll take a look at the ISO sensitivity option, I think all I've changed is setting it to auto.

Yardbent said:
have you back-button focused on someone then moved the camera if you are indoors at f2.8 your DOF will be small

set mine to ISO 200 but enable the sensitivity menu to max 1600ISO and min shutter 1/100sec
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If the camera moved it would've been very slightly...I focused with the back button on someone's head, recomposed the shot and took it. I can't quite remember but maybe I pressed the back button again, especially if it wouldn't take the shot, so that would've changed the focus :shrug:

What is the default settings for max ISO and min shutter speed and what improvements do you think your settings make on the photo?
 
What is the default settings for max ISO and min shutter speed and what improvements do you think your settings make on the photo?

didn't know you didn't have the manual yet

you can set ISO to Auto then set the sensitivity

so if the camera cannot make the shot at ISO200 it looks at increasing the ISO - I am only happy ATM to allow it to raise the ISO to 1600

it also asks what is the min shutter speed you will accept - i chose 1/100
 
Pezza4u said:
...
I've noticed that mine won't fire until it's in focus as well, sometimes I need to hold down the back button to get it to fire...maybe that's the problem? ...
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By "back button", I guess you mean the AE/AF-L (Auto Exposure/Auto Focus Lock) button? That would explain the symptoms you describe. The normal way to use the Auto Focus Lock is first to focus on the main subject of interest, then press AF/L to keep the subject in focus even if you subsequently reframe the shot. Highly useful.

However if you hold this button down *before* you focus, it will keep the lens focus at wherever it happened to be after the previous shot. The camera will assume you know what you're doing and take the shot anyway. It's very unlikely to be in proper focus.

As a rule of thumb I'd say that if your main subject remains within the focusing matrix (focus mode dependent of course) of the camera, leave the AF/L button alone. If you need the main focused subject to be outside this zone, focus on it first, press AF/L, recompose then fully press the shutter button.

The only time I can think of where I'd press the AF/L button before even focusing is if I had just taken one shot, wanted to take another shot pretty much the same but *urgently*, and couldn't afford the risk of the autofocus "hunting" and thereby missing the action.

Hope that's some help.

Mark.
 
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Imagical said:
By "back button", I guess you mean the AE/AF-L (Auto Exposure/Auto Focus Lock) button? That would explain the symptoms you describe. The normal way to use the Auto Focus Lock is first to focus on the main subject of interest, then press AF/L to keep the subject in focus even if you subsequently reframe the shot. Highly useful.Mark.
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true - but i think the question is about what happens when the "Function" of the 'back-button' is "changed" to be AF and not AF-Lock

point needs to be clarified or we're all talking at cross-purposes
 
Thanks for the explanation Mark it makes sense but like John said I've got the back button set to AF-ON. I press the back button to focus instead of half pressing the shutter and then the back button to lock it. I think it's just me having to get use to this method.
 
Imagical said:
By "back button", I guess you mean the AE/AF-L (Auto Exposure/Auto Focus Lock) button?
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Back Button was refering to "Back Button Focusing".

By changing the setting from AE/AF-L to AF-ON you can focus using the AE/AF-L button.
 
Well guys, my 18-70 arrived today and its spot on. It came with a Jessops UV Filter and after i spent 2 hours cleaning it up as it was a little grubby for my OCD:lol: its lovely. One thing ive noticed is that there is slight play in the upper section nearer to the 67mm end. Is this normal? It doesnt happen on my other 2 kit lenses but theyre a lot lighter.......
Also my Lowepro Sligshot Ebay jobbie arrived and its bloody great! £16!... still cant get my head round that one:eek::D
Phil
 
Just received my 18-70 lens and what a great lens it is too! Really sharp! Shame there's no VR but for £82 I ain't complaining! :thumbs:
 
Can you get everything in the bag Phil? lol :thumbs:

I'm buying a tripod and beanbag pod tonight so can finally have ago at doing some long exposures :)

Was looking at the ISO settings last night, my max was set to 3200 and min shutter speed 1/30, so think I must have changed them already. I'm thinking of changing it to the hi setting though and maybe the lo (1, 0.3, 0.7). Not sure what the difference is between the low ones but going to have a play and see if I notice any difference with ISO 200.
 
AFC said:
Back Button was refering to "Back Button Focusing".
By changing the setting from AE/AF-L to AF-ON you can focus using the AE/AF-L button.
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Yardbent said:
true - but i think the question is about what happens when the "Function" of the 'back-button' is "changed" to be AF and not AF-Lock
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Pezza4u said:
... but like John said I've got the back button set to AF-ON.
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OK, all makes sense now, thanks all for clarifying. (And sorry too - given that, my reply might have come across almost patronising in hindsight. Hope no offence taken).

Mark.
 
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No probs Mark, were are all thick skinned on here....or er is it just thick. :lol:
 
Hi all..
My D5000 is the first DSLR I've owned and I love it. I've had for 3 months now and still learning to use it. Haven't had much time to fiddle with however because of work so I guess I'm still a real beginner!
Check out some of my pics on http://www.flickr.com/photos/48575435@N07/
Cheers
Rab
 
Got my David Busch book today, at last! Picked my tripod up as well tonight so can do some long exposures :)

Slowwormz said:
Hi all..
My D5000 is the first DSLR I've owned and I love it. I've had for 3 months now and still learning to use it. Haven't had much time to fiddle with however because of work so I guess I'm still a real beginner!
Check out some of my pics on http://www.flickr.com/photos/48575435@N07/
Cheers
Rab
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Some very nice photos there Rab IMO, really like the one with the guy jumping out of the sea :thumbs:
 
Slowwormz said:
Hi all..
My D5000 is the first DSLR I've owned and I love it. I've had for 3 months now and still learning to use it. Haven't had much time to fiddle with however because of work so I guess I'm still a real beginner!
Check out some of my pics on http://www.flickr.com/photos/48575435@N07/
Cheers
Rab
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Hi there. Ive had mine around the same period and love it also. Liking your Flickr:). My fav is the in car shot.

Pezza4u said:
Got my David Busch book today, at last! Picked my tripod up as well tonight so can do some long exposures :)



Some very nice photos there Rab IMO, really like the one with the guy jumping out of the sea :thumbs:
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Well done with the book:)
I would recommend a remote bud. http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI....52298&ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT#ht_2007wt_1139
Mines great.
Phil
 
Pezza4u said:
I had a quick flick through and it looks like it will be very helpful :thumbs:

Cheers for the link, I will order one of those and I want a CPL filter as well...did you get one of these, I think you did?
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Yeh, i got mine through a buyer called olympiasolar or ukpartsdeal:)
 
Hi I've just got the 5000 and need a better zoom is the Sigma 70-300 a good choice..
 
Hi janpac,

The Siggy is a decent enough 3rd party lens but make sure you go for the 'APO' or apochromatic version rather than the (slightly) cheaper standard version.It has a red line around it to differentiate between it and the basic non-apochromatic one. Better still, if you can save up the pennies for a bit longer, go for the Nikon 70-300 VR which a few of us on here have. Its a superb lens which will set you back around the £300 mark used or £380 new.
Hope that helps a little.....

Neil
 
I'm looking at getting a remote for my D5000 and wondered which would be better?

The ML- L3 ir one or the corded MC-DC2.

When i get my tripod i hope to do some long exposure shots of night landscapes etc. From what i 've seen so far spec wise you need to be in front of the camera to use the ML-L3.... so that will be good for self portraits ? Does it work from behind?? So will i need both?

For using bulb setting MC-DC2 is recommended and for time setting ML-L3 is required( can you use the MC-DC2 for this mode?

cheers K
 
Kabizm said:
I'm looking at getting a remote for my D5000 and wondered which would be better?

The ML- L3 ir one or the corded MC-DC2.

When i get my tripod i hope to do some long exposure shots of night landscapes etc. From what i 've seen so far spec wise you need to be in front of the camera to use the ML-L3.... so that will be good for self portraits ? Does it work from behind?? So will i need both?

For using bulb setting MC-DC2 is recommended and for time setting ML-L3 is required( can you use the MC-DC2 for this mode?

cheers K
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Hi Kabizm, i have the ML-L3 (albeit a copy) but its excellent and only £3.70! I paid £3 but its went up a tad in price.
Heres the link to the one i have.
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Remote-Contro...eNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem#ht_2109wt_1139
Now as we speak im doing a little test for you...... the shutter can be triggered from behind but only from approx 45 degrees. It works from right behind upto 3 metres away at which point i ran out of living room. Ive took about 30 shots so it wasnt a fluke.
Hope this helps, Phil
 
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