The Fabulous Fuji X owners thread

Can anyone tell me if this new 50mm F1.0 lens is for full frame or crop?
 
NickD said:
I know some folks don't like to go for grey imports, but that's well over the new price from E-Infinity.

Fujifilm X-T3 Digital Camera + 18-55mm f/2.8-4 R OIS Lens (Silver)

£959.00 - 12 Months<br />Warranty - 14 Days<br />Money Back - 100%<br />Brand New - Free<br />Shipping - Import Tax<br />Included
www.e-infin.com www.e-infin.com
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Good thought. I don't mind grey at all and might go for it body only at £779 as I don't really get on with zooms and have a 56/1.2 on the way which I bought when I had the X-E3 and is being serviced by Fuji at the mo.

Don't have an answer as to X-T3 vs X-T4. X-T4 is quite a premium but is it worth it?
 
YoshiK1 said:
Whoops, my finger slipped on an X-T4 with 18-55 lens. My mates going to be raging haha! Now to find a WCL, TCL for the mate and decide if I want a 55-200 or a 50-140 hmmmm.
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The 50-140 is a lovely lens, and it will take the 1.4TC, effectively making it a 75-210 f4. The 55-200 can't be used with the TC.
 
Brazo said:
Can anyone tell me if this new 50mm F1.0 lens is for full frame or crop?
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If you mean does it have FF coverage? as an APSC lens - I doubt it. It can only be used on Fuji either way, don't think Fuji lenses can be adapted to other systems
 
addicknchips said:
both types (shallow dof and not) have a time and a place to be used. some backgrounds are just not pleasing and can ruin a shot if showing too clearly defined. all depends on the scene at the time. id rather have the option to stop down when needed/wanted rather not have the choice to adequately separate subject from background.
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The whole seperate the subject from the background thing is kinda recent though isn't it? Portraits from decades back often had full backdrop detail, it was as much part of the image - these days we refer to these types of image as 'environmental portraits' but back then they were just portraits. I like a nice soft backdrop ... sometimes! But often I prefer a bit of detail in the environment, gives more of a sense of location. I could never understand for example, the portrait photographer who'd bring the model out to some glorious location like a deep forest, only to blow the backdrop out completely every shot - could have done same in the back yard :D
 
YoshiK1 said:
Haha, whys that? I can't save money so I will end up squandering it on garbage and have nothing to show for it. At least this way I get the longer focal lengths etc and can always sell it on. Use the X100V for street and wandering. Use the X-T4 for everything else.
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A better plan would be to sell me the X100V for £50 :p
 
Cagey75 said:
The whole seperate the subject from the background thing is kinda recent though isn't it? Portraits from decades back often had full backdrop detail, it was as much part of the image - these days we refer to these types of image as 'environmental portraits' but back then they were just portraits. I like a nice soft backdrop ... sometimes! But often I prefer a bit of detail in the environment, gives more of a sense of location. I could never understand for example, the portrait photographer who'd bring the model out to some glorious location like a deep forest, only to blow the backdrop out completely every shot - could have done same in the back yard :D
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Thats kind of the point, just because a lens is fast doesnt mean you will use it fast at every opportunity, fast lenses allow for more flexibility and let more light in... and they sure arent for amateurs, skill is required to nail focus when using a faster lens because of that DOF. Shallow DOF has been around a lot longer than you think.
 
I need to stop reading this thread, talked myself out of a X100V at least three times now but have succumbed to an X100.

Yes, yes, yes I know what’s going to happen - I’ll really like it but it’ll be a bit too slow and I’ll want more resolution, I’ll get a V with the intention of returning the X100 but won’t get round to it ...

All so familiar :)
 
twist said:
@Cagey75 and others, what settings are you guys using in LR for sharpening?
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I have sharpening set to 0 by default, it's 40 by Adobe's default which is way too high. From there I only add as needed [I generally tend to add about 20-25], and I'll use the masking to concentrate sharpening only where I desire it. Alt + the masking slider will highlight where sharpening occurs in white

It's a bit of a PITA the way you have to set defaults now after current updates, used to be much simpler. But ... once it's done, it's done
 
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Never got happy with LR since i got the 30

caved in and went to Capture One .... night and day even just the free fuji express version
 
twist said:
@Cagey75 and others, what settings are you guys using in LR for sharpening?
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I religiously use C1 for all Fuji processing, previously used Fuji's own Raw File Converter EX3.0 which gave brilliant results but works and looks like an Amstrad. Just seem to get more fine control in C1 especially in sharpening, easier to make subtle changes in my opinion.
 
tigerdriver said:
Never got happy with LR since i got the 30

caved in and went to Capture One .... night and day even just the free fuji express version
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I don't like C1 at all, I've tried it and compared against LR and LR just does it so much smoother IMO. If I'm concerned about sharpening or if it's a landscape I want to shine, I'll take it to PS - which does better than most programs when it comes to sharpening
 
Cagey75 said:
I have sharpening set to 0 by default, it's 40 by Adobe's default which is way too high. From there I only add as needed [I generally tend to add about 20-25], and I'll use the masking to concentrate sharpening only where I desire it. Alt + the masking slider will highlight where sharpening occurs in white

It's a bit of a PITA the way you have to set defaults now after current updates, used to be much simpler. But ... once it's done, it's done
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Thanks, kind of where I am, 20 amount, detail can go up most of the way, if I push detail all they way I drop amount to offset.
 
twist said:
Thanks, kind of where I am, 20 amount, detail can go up most of the way, if I push detail all they way I drop amount to offset.
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If you're not already, do try the masking, it changed how I process for good once I discovered it. And I've never once had anyone point out any strange artifacts or oddities in any of my images. For portraits it's invaluable, you can concentrate sharpening to the eyes/hair and completely remove it from your softer backdrops, works really well and takes seconds. I'm not afraid to push masking right the ways up either.

Another thing I tend to do to avoid any weird srtifacting is use the adjustment brush when I want texture or clarity, instead of using it across the whole image. Texture in particular can really mess up smoother areas
 
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Cagey75 said:
If you're not already, do try the masking, it changed how I process for good once I discovered it. And I've never once had anyone point out any strange artifacts or oddities in any of my images. For portraits it's invaluable, you can concentrate sharpening to the eyes/hair and completely remove it from your softer backdrops, works really well and takes seconds. I'm not afraid to push masking right the ways up either.
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Not seeing worms unless I push to hard but that applies to a lot of cameras, it's just finding the best way to batch the lot.
 
Mr Bastable said:
I need to stop reading this thread, talked myself out of a X100V at least three times now but have succumbed to an X100.

Yes, yes, yes I know what’s going to happen - I’ll really like it but it’ll be a bit too slow and I’ll want more resolution, I’ll get a V with the intention of returning the X100 but won’t get round to it ...

All so familiar :)
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Just save yourself the hassle and return the X100 and get the V ;)

I've basically done the same with an X-T4. Mate was between X-T4 and V. Got him onto the V but it made me lust after the X-T4 which I had but sold to get the V. I've just bought an X-T4 and a bunch of lenses. I can't see s****e go by without having it :D Wife doesn't know. She'll never know :P haha
 
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twist said:
Not seeing worms unless I push to hard but that applies to a lot of cameras, it's just finding the best way to batch the lot.
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I never see them, simply processing how I mentioned. I remember seeing them on Nikon, Olympus and Panasonic files if I pushed sharpening too hard, with Fuji you just have to hold back more so - I know a lot of people just don't get this as I see uploads with artifacts and they'll have sharpening at 50 with no masking and wonder why
 
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Cagey75 said:
I have sharpening set to 0 by default, it's 40 by Adobe's default which is way too high. From there I only add as needed [I generally tend to add about 20-25], and I'll use the masking to concentrate sharpening only where I desire it. Alt + the masking slider will highlight where sharpening occurs in white

It's a bit of a PITA the way you have to set defaults now after current updates, used to be much simpler. But ... once it's done, it's done
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+1 for this technique.
I usually hover between 15 and 20 depending on subject matter and then using the Alt +masking slider to concentrate the sharpening where I want it most.
 
Cagey75 said:
The whole seperate the subject from the background thing is kinda recent though isn't it? Portraits from decades back often had full backdrop detail, it was as much part of the image - these days we refer to these types of image as 'environmental portraits' but back then they were just portraits. I like a nice soft backdrop ... sometimes! But often I prefer a bit of detail in the environment, gives more of a sense of location. I could never understand for example, the portrait photographer who'd bring the model out to some glorious location like a deep forest, only to blow the backdrop out completely every shot - could have done same in the back yard :D
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I agree mostly with the above, but have definitely seen plenty of black and white film photos with shallow dof.

My main point though being that there's a time and a place for shallow dof shots and more "environmental" shots. The faster aperture lenses give the option and therefore justify the extra expense imo.

Probably my favourite portrait lens is the 100mm f2.8 gm. It's not a face melting aperture and with a f5.6 t stop it's not the most practical of lenses, but I love the way it renders.
 
addicknchips said:
I agree mostly with the above, but have definitely seen plenty of black and white film photos with shallow dof.

My main point though being that there's a time and a place for shallow dof shots and more "environmental" shots. The faster aperture lenses give the option and therefore justify the extra expense imo.

Probably my favourite portrait lens is the 100mm f2.8 gm. It's not a face melting aperture and with a f5.6 t stop it's not the most practical of lenses, but I love the way it renders.
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Thing is though, you can get that melt away shallow DOF with much, much cheaper lenses. Like the Viltrox 85 1.8, very easy to achieve this result and it's about as sharp as I'll ever need, especially stopped down a little. I've taken head/shoulder shots using it at F4 that had very pleasing bokeh. Now, it's trickier for full length portraits and that's where I can see a lens like the 50 F/1 come into it's own, but it's 7 times the price! [if you get the 85 for as little as many of us here have]
 
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