The Fabulous Fuji X owners thread

Cagey75 said:
You need to go back to 2010 ... :D

Nothing against the image btw, tis cool, but the Danbo trend is thankfully, long past.
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I still like Danbo, but then I'm a bit retro ;)
 
The original didn't have Amazon packaging, you can still get them on ebay I'm sure. Amazon were clever on that one
 
Cagey75 said:
The original didn't have Amazon packaging, you can still get them on ebay I'm sure. Amazon were clever on that one
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Not sure what you mean about not having amazon packaging? Do you mean the original was just a box figure with no logos?
 
Cagey75 said:
yeah, it was from some Manga cartoon or something
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That link I posted for rookies had a few without any logos so looks like you can still buy them. I actually prefer them with the amazon logos. Still not as good as Star Wars Lego though :lol:
 
snerkler said:
That link I posted for rookies had a few without any logos so looks like you can still buy them. I actually prefer them with the amazon logos. Still not as good as Star Wars Lego though :lol:
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Hope you bough me one pal ;)
 
snerkler said:
That link I posted for rookies had a few without any logos so looks like you can still buy them. I actually prefer them with the amazon logos. Still not as good as Star Wars Lego though :LOL:
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Or Sylvanian families :D I have done some shoots of those for the kids in my time
 
OMG what have I started now take the p*** out of rookies day :(
 
Barrysprout said:
These were shot as individual frames and joined in LR.
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Might be worth trying Photoshop instead, as if I recall correctly, Photomerge has a setting to remove vignetting when merging. I'm guessing that very subtle vignetting on the original shots is the root cause.
 
yamahatdm900 said:
Who has used there XT2 for star trails/Milky way shots?
Never done any but do fancy having a go I do have a Fuji 14mm so hopefully that will do.
What settings on long exposure noise reduction do people use?
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Not with the xt2, but generally settings remain the same throughout. Wide open, iso 1600 or 3200, 20-30 secs if not tracking.
Shoot in raw and keep all NR to minimum in camera. After shooting keep settings exactly the same, place lens cap on and take several "dark frames". These will be just noise, you can then use software to subtract the dark frames from your images while leaving the true signal intact. :)
 
dave.hallett said:
Might be worth trying Photoshop instead, as if I recall correctly, Photomerge has a setting to remove vignetting when merging. I'm guessing that very subtle vignetting on the original shots is the root cause.
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Yes, I was just too lazy with it as I was still annoyed at not getting the shot I wanted. It became very obvious as I pulled back the sky and spending a few minutes with it the way it was fooled my eyes into thinking I had sorted it, should have had a break and went back to it. But to be honest I don't think it's really worth the effort. Maybe tomorrow :D
 
jimmyjamjojo said:
Not with the xt2, but generally settings remain the same throughout. Wide open, iso 1600 or 3200, 20-30 secs if not tracking.
Shoot in raw and keep all NR to minimum in camera. After shooting keep settings exactly the same, place lens cap on and take several "dark frames". These will be just noise, you can then use software to subtract the dark frames from your images while leaving the true signal intact. :)
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Thanks Jimmy thats what i thought but nice to know from someone whos done it.
 
dave.hallett said:
Here's the famous Fuji "painterly effect" in full swing. Although in this case it probably arises more from being shot at f/2 and ISO 3200 on an old Pentax K nifty fifty :)


Man with Red Bag, St Giles by David Hallett, on Flickr
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Do you have your NR set to -2 for Jpeg? Or do you shoot RAW? Looks fine to me either way, not many sensors do high ISO perfectly

manualfocus-g said:
Now we're cooking.

View attachment 90570

This thing focuses VERY quickly!
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I'd really like that, and the 35 F2, but it'll be a while yet. Still pondering options. I could possibly sell my 55-200, as I really only use it for reach, and there's some nice cheap old 200mm primes out there that can be adapted.

Selling that and my 27mm would allow me get the 23 f2 and 35 F2 set almost, with a few quids on top. But then i don't know how much I'd miss the 55-200
 
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Andrew Moore said:
Had a play with the 23f2 yet?
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Just a couple of snaps around the house, but a few observations:

1. It's a bit ugly
2. Focusing is incredibly fast
3. Focusing is very quiet, unnervingly so
4. It is very sharp*
5. * Except at extremely close focus

All of this fits with others' experiences so looks like my copy is bang on :) The price if grey imports is starting to fall too (tho mine was UK stock bought with 10℅ cashback).
 
Cagey75 said:
I'd really like that, and the 35 F2, but it'll be a while yet. Still pondering options. I could possibly sell my 55-200, as I really only use it for reach, and there's some nice cheap old 200mm primes out there that can be adapted.

Selling that and my 27mm would allow me get the 23 f2 and 35 F2 set almost, with a few quids on top. But then i don't know how much I'd miss the 55-200
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I do use my 55-200mm a fair bit, it's a brilliant lens! The 27/2.8 is also great for the money - I'm finding it incredibly difficult to part with any Fuji X lenses in fact! I will need to sell some gear now though, and suspect the 18/2 will be first out of the door. The 27/2.8 may follow, but it's just so pocketable! Arrgh!!!
 
Cagey75 said:
Do you have your NR set to -2 for Jpeg? Or do you shoot RAW? Looks fine to me either way, not many sensors do high ISO perfectly
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This is from the RAW, although I shot a JPEG as well by mistake (accidentally left that setting on from when I was doing some tests earlier). The key is to be very careful about NR and sharpening. If you reduce noise too much, even colour noise, you lose detail. If you sharpen you must be very careful not to increase the noise (for high ISO shots, I favour a technique based on High Pass so that I can eliminate noise from that layer completely). I'm still learning what works though, and I have to say the JPEGs do a pretty good job. I find it's mainly the loss of highlight detail where they lose out over the RAW, in high-contrast night pictures.
 
dave.hallett said:
This is from the RAW, although I shot a JPEG as well by mistake (accidentally left that setting on from when I was doing some tests earlier). The key is to be very careful about NR and sharpening. If you reduce noise too much, even colour noise, you lose detail. If you sharpen you must be very careful not to increase the noise (for high ISO shots, I favour a technique based on High Pass so that I can eliminate noise from that layer completely). I'm still learning what works though, and I have to say the JPEGs do a pretty good job. I find it's mainly the loss of highlight detail where they lose out over the RAW, in high-contrast night pictures.
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I used to try similar techniques in PS, using soft layers and high pass sharpening etc ... now I just tend to embrace noise when it occurs :D


manualfocus-g said:
I do use my 55-200mm a fair bit, it's a brilliant lens! The 27/2.8 is also great for the money - I'm finding it incredibly difficult to part with any Fuji X lenses in fact! I will need to sell some gear now though, and suspect the 18/2 will be first out of the door. The 27/2.8 may follow, but it's just so pocketable! Arrgh!!!
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Yeah it is a solid lens, I'll keep tabs on how I'm using it over the coming weeks, won't do anything rash just yet. See what focal length I'm using mostly with it, how often I rely on OIS, where I find I'm missing something shorter and brighter, that kind of thing. I know I could probably get a decent price for it locally. The 27 is fine, I think i would just prefer one of the other short primes. It's a right inbetweener - but it's perfect in some cases. Like the kid's Christmas plays upcoming, nobody will even pay heed to me taking pics, whereas when i had a big fat dslr and a hefty 35mm lens I stood out like a baboon's ballsack :D
 
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