The Fabulous Fuji X owners thread

Stephen I forgot......
Don't use the Manfrotto plate. Get a cheapo Chinese L bracket and if you talk nicely to me I'll adapt it so that you can use it in portrait mode with a remote release.
Time to use all that equity you've just released.
 
My 50-140 and 1.4x has arrived :). Can't believe how dinky the 1.4x converter is compared with a Canon one. All looks lovely build quality as is usual.

Couple of questions - does the OIS motor run continuously when the camera is on? Also, focus is quiet and smooth, but a bit pedestrian - I'm in low light mind, but was expecting it to be a bit nippier. It's definitely slower than the Canon F4 IS and the Canon 2.8 IS II in this level of light. Both those lenses jump to focus so quickly you almost get a bit of torque rotation when they put the brakes on.
 
Stephen. Move gone OK? Settled in? (See what I did there?)
You can now get Manfrotto heads with built in Arca plates. I have one as does @Mr Perceptive but I can't remember the number off the top of my head.
Kirk do, or did, make an adaptor that fits into the RC2 clamp which has an Arca fitting on top. Works well. I had one but sold it to someone on here a while back.
Only problem is that it is somewhat non standard in that Wex who are the UK agents don't hold it as standard stock and you have to get it on special order. Given recent currency movements it might be better to bite the bullet and get a new head. I'll go upstairs and find my tripod head number. Watch this space!
Yes, all moved in and broadband connected, albeit a little slow until it beds in. Been exploring Settle in the rain.

That head was an old favourite of mine and I would have liked to continue using it, but I can get by on my b&s heads.
 
My 50-140 and 1.4x has arrived :). Can't believe how dinky the 1.4x converter is compared with a Canon one. All looks lovely build quality as is usual.

Couple of questions - does the OIS motor run continuously when the camera is on? Also, focus is quiet and smooth, but a bit pedestrian - I'm in low light mind, but was expecting it to be a bit nippier. It's definitely slower than the Canon F4 IS and the Canon 2.8 IS II in this level of light. Both those lenses jump to focus so quickly you almost get a bit of torque rotation when they put the brakes on.

I wish they had a TC to fit the 55-200.

On the 55-200 you can set the OIS to continuous or to kick in only when shooting, should be same for any OIS lens. It's the 5th red munu tab on the XT-1, IS MODE - set to your preference. I just leave it on, and if needed turn OIS off on the lens itself.
 
Stephen I forgot......
Don't use the Manfrotto plate. Get a cheapo Chinese L bracket and if you talk nicely to me I'll adapt it so that you can use it in portrait mode with a remote release.
Time to use all that equity you've just released.
Wot equity? We've gone from a free grace and favour house to a place we have to pay rent for!

Thanks for the offer but I have the Fuji large grip with the built-in Arca, and for the frequency I use tripods I'm happy enough just tilting the ball.
 
I think the rumour started because the X-Pro2 had/has guidelines for 33mm, which obviously doesn't exist as a prime at the moment. I would guess somebody put one and two together and then got f1.0.

Nothing has ever appeared on the roadmap iirc, it looks a bit sparse right now, just a 50mm f2 WR and the 80mm 2.8 Macro. I wonder if GF lens development will slow down the X line now.

I wouldn't be surprised to see a fisheye at some point, but it would be nice to get an updated 35mm 1.4 with Linear Motors.

The rumour was around well before the X-Pro 2 was released :) It appears from sources that development was halted once Fuji saw how well the cheaper 35/2 was selling, and focused on that line instead.
 
. Been exploring Settle in the rain.

Nice place, but when I was there the number of flies along the riverside walk was awful, little bastards got everywhere
 
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How do get your xt2 quick fit on that manfrotto tripod pls?

Also what extension tubs those does it work on all lens?

The L-Bracket has also got threading for mounting on a screw fitting. The tubes are cheapy Pixco ones and yes you can put them on any lens with varying degrees of usefulness. They are certainly not made as well as the Fuji branded tubes but I sold my 16mm Fuji tube and bought these two and pocketed the other £40.
 
Is there a way to get the XT1 to show actual battery percentage rather than just the very vague battery symbol?
 
Is there a way to get the XT1 to show actual battery percentage rather than just the very vague battery symbol?

No. I kinda like it, I'm usually risk averse so it's s welcome thrill.
 
Nice place, but when I was there the number of flies along the riverside walk was awful, little bastards got everywhere
We have a fly in the kitchen just now. Wonder if it's the same one?
 
We have a fly in the kitchen just now. Wonder if it's the same one?

Yes if it's got about a million mates with it, reckon we were just unlucky, had to seek refuge in a tea shop in a little alley off the main square. Very nice place and were advertising live music, do recall the cakes were tasty too
 
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just bought it as well. I recently done a fresh install of my Mac software. So do i just download the trial version from Adobe then input the code?
Hmm. Good question. I think the code gets redeemed on the Adobe site actually. But I haven't tried it yet. Still have 5 days to go on my current licence.

And @snerkler, I believe it's a 12 month contract, it's just billed monthly. It was a total accident, but I'm starting to think that having my annual contract renew around the time of Black Friday was a rather good idea! :-)
 
Both look OK to me and are very nice images. I think the Samyang looks crisper and more contrasty, but I prefer the colours of the Fuji lens (I've not pixel peeped, just commenting on the image sizes on here) However, I'm a bit baffled as to your comment about which lens handles low light better than the other???? :confused: Surely a lens doesn't have low light handling properties does it? Sure one lens can be faster than the other, but that only influences the low light handling of the camera in that you can use a faster shutter speed. Also, you can't really compare lenses when you're using different settings. Obviously the aperture's not been registered on the Samyang but as the shutter speed is twice as fast I can only assume that the aperture is wider?

I probably worded it wrong, I guess I was more thinking that the Fuji might have better coatings / optical make-up than the Samyang and thats why it would have a better low-light performance, I've noticed the Samyang can meter very differently on the same scene with the same aperture as other lenses, often being much darker.
 
I probably worded it wrong, I guess I was more thinking that the Fuji might have better coatings / optical make-up than the Samyang and thats why it would have a better low-light performance, I've noticed the Samyang can meter very differently on the same scene with the same aperture as other lenses, often being much darker.
Ahh I see. Not all lenses are the apertures they say they are, so not all f1.4 lenses let the same light in and not all f2.8 lenses let the same light in etc etc. I forget the reason for it now but I think it might just be manufacturers 'being a bit naughty'. It's the same as ISO 100 might not actually truly be ISO 100 :rolleyes:
 
Factor in coatings and glass type used and things can be massively different.
F1.4 or whatever isn't a measure of brightness, it is a focal ratio. It comes from dividing the focal length by the measured aperture. E.g. A 100mm lens with an aperture of 50mm is an f2. If it's made with poor glass and poor optics the variations in brightness can be up to 10-15%.

You notice it more in telescopes tbh, where you spend most of your time on the absolute limit of juuuuuust being able to see something. All of a sudden that extra 2 grand you spent on the scope with ED glass and kick ass eyepieces pays off.
 
@chrism_scotland What Jimmy said, but also, do you mean compared with other 12mm lenses? Cos if we talking about a different angle of view, then unless you're shooting a grey card, it's not surprising they meter differently. Just to add to the mix, some old manual lenses would meter completely wrongly on my K-10D. That problem related to the viewfinder, however (you could fix it by swapping the ground glass), so is unlikely to be an issue with a mirrorless camera, I would think.
 
@chrism_scotland What Jimmy said, but also, do you mean compared with other 12mm lenses? Cos if we talking about a different angle of view, then unless you're shooting a grey card, it's not surprising they meter differently. Just to add to the mix, some old manual lenses would meter completely wrongly on my K-10D. That problem related to the viewfinder, however (you could fix it by swapping the ground glass), so is unlikely to be an issue with a mirrorless camera, I would think.
Why would the 12mm meter differently compared to the 16mm assuming there's not something really different in brightness outside of the frame of the 16mm?
 
Why would the 12mm meter differently compared to the 16mm assuming there's not something really different in brightness outside of the frame of the 16mm?
Well it depends what metering mode you're using. If spot metering, then no difference, obviously. But if you're including more of the sky,,,
 
Q menu - drives me nuts. Press Q, use joypad to navigate to desired option. Press central OK within joypad to select. Q Menu disappears. Arghhhhhh! This is (in my view) an awful UI fail. Of course what I should do, is navigate using outer ring of joypad, and then move thumb away from OK button in middle to scroll wheel then adjust setting. This is so counterintuive to me that every time I end up cancelling with the OK button accidentally. Ok should mean OK, that's the setting I want to change, highlight it, then allow me to change it using joypad buttons. Pressing OK again should set it and bring me back to the Q menu.
 
Q menu - drives me nuts. Press Q, use joypad to navigate to desired option. Press central OK within joypad to select. Q Menu disappears. Arghhhhhh! This is (in my view) an awful UI fail. Of course what I should do, is navigate using outer ring of joypad, and then move thumb away from OK button in middle to scroll wheel then adjust setting. This is so counterintuive to me that every time I end up cancelling with the OK button accidentally. Ok should mean OK, that's the setting I want to change, highlight it, then allow me to change it using joypad buttons. Pressing OK again should set it and bring me back to the Q menu.
Oh that's how it's meant to work! I just went and tried it...and now I see. It's a good thing you can use an X-T10 perfectly well without ever touching the Q menu, because I've been meaning to look it up in the manual since I first bought the camera, except that I know how to do everything I want to do without it, so never quite got round to it. QED, I think... :-)
 
Oh that's how it's meant to work! I just went and tried it...and now I see. It's a good thing you can use an X-T10 perfectly well without ever touching the Q menu, because I've been meaning to look it up in the manual since I first bought the camera, except that I know how to do everything I want to do without it, so never quite got round to it. QED, I think... :)

I know it's by design but by design is horrible :( :). Ok should never mean cancel, I was thinking of a feature request last night - but maybe exists - something like the Q menu on the Canon, where a single press brings up all the key camera parameters such that they can be adjusted from he back screen. I know the Fuji has knobs for the key parameters but you can't see them in the dark. Sometimes progress is backwards :)
 
A interesting Nikon D500 vs Fuji XT-2 video...... a point worth mentioning is that he only used 95mbps UHS I SD cards so perhaps the Fuji XT-2 would have faired better with faster UHS II's?

View: https://youtu.be/iYf7t9lzslQ
 
Hmm. Good question. I think the code gets redeemed on the Adobe site actually. But I haven't tried it yet. Still have 5 days to go on my current licence.

And @snerkler, I believe it's a 12 month contract, it's just billed monthly. It was a total accident, but I'm starting to think that having my annual contract renew around the time of Black Friday was a rather good idea! :)
Thanks for the inspiration :)

I just went to cancel my sub and found I was locked in (with a £60 early cancellation fee) and whats worse is that I'd just paid yesterday... Well I got on chat with Adobe and they cancelled as of just now free of charge and refunded my last sub :)

Now just bought from Amazon and all is well.

Thanks again.
 
A interesting Nikon D500 vs Fuji XT-2 video...... a point worth mentioning is that he only used 95mbps UHS I SD cards so perhaps the Fuji XT-2 would have faired better with faster UHS II's?

View: https://youtu.be/iYf7t9lzslQ

I've not watched it though yet, but lets not kid ourselves, the XT2 is not as good as the D500 for what it does best, sports - that said if you were to compare them on day to day use, never needing AF adjustement or anything else mirrorless offers then it would be the winner period. That its even ballpark then thats a massive achievement.
 
Q menu - drives me nuts. Press Q, use joypad to navigate to desired option. Press central OK within joypad to select. Q Menu disappears. Arghhhhhh! This is (in my view) an awful UI fail. Of course what I should do, is navigate using outer ring of joypad, and then move thumb away from OK button in middle to scroll wheel then adjust setting. This is so counterintuive to me that every time I end up cancelling with the OK button accidentally. Ok should mean OK, that's the setting I want to change, highlight it, then allow me to change it using joypad buttons. Pressing OK again should set it and bring me back to the Q menu.
I find it intuitive enough. OK it caught me out the first time, but then after that I learnt how to do it right :whistle: ;)
 
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