The Fabulous Fuji X owners thread

Thanks Colin.

To be honest, I shoot allsorts so I'm struggling with my lens line up at the moment. I've got the Sammy 12mm, 35mm, 18-55mm and did have the 50-230. I was hoping to use the money i'd put aside for the 56mm for portrait stuff, so now I'm thinking maybe the 50-140 would be good and get the teleconvertor when it comes out.

Looking at Davids stunning shots of his newborn baby, could the 50-140 be a good all-rounder? Portraits and Wildlife?
 
Sounds like a plan James, If you were planning on the 56 anyway then that takes a big chunk of the cost out of the 50-140. Maybe check back your files and check how often you used the 50-230 above 140 (you can make a custom collection based on metadata if you use lightroom) if it's the least used end then the 50-140 would cover both objectives in one lens.If on the other hand it was mostly the longer length you have been using then I would try and get a 2nd hand 50-230 and then put aside some more savings while you decide between the 56 & the 50-140.
 
Thanks Colin.

To be honest, I shoot allsorts so I'm struggling with my lens line up at the moment. I've got the Sammy 12mm, 35mm, 18-55mm and did have the 50-230. I was hoping to use the money i'd put aside for the 56mm for portrait stuff, so now I'm thinking maybe the 50-140 would be good and get the teleconvertor when it comes out.

Looking at Davids stunning shots of his newborn baby, could the 50-140 be a good all-rounder? Portraits and Wildlife?
One other advantage of the 50-140 is weather sealing. Might be useful in the Falklands?
 
Does LR CC support X-T1 raw files?? as read somewhere that LR doesn't unless that old news
 
Does LR CC support X-T1 raw files?? as read somewhere that LR doesn't unless that old news

Always Raw

Only Lightroom for this one. Bump up clarity, drop saturation, crop a little tighter and sharpen. Fuji files push around quite nicely I find

Presuming I'm Barry (actually Colin) thanks Andrew. Because I usually only shoot RAW then yes I do a fair bit to the files. Most adjustments I do in a under a minute but sometimes I'll spend a bit of time to get what I want. As a comparison I went back to the file of my Grandson and stripped back everything I had done other than a slight crop to get rid of some writing on his T-shirt. I then applied the Pro neg std preset to the file (which is as close as I can get to what the camera jpeg would have been. Here are the 2 side by side. (my edit on the left)

View attachment 36939

Time to stop reading and get your wallet out Andrew
 
LoL already have yesterday ha ha

Just trying get hang of it ie whether live ISO in auto or the like.

What your prefer set up??
 
LoL already have yesterday ha ha

Just trying get hang of it ie whether live ISO in auto or the like.

What your prefer set up??

I've never really used auto ISO apart from trying it out to make sure it works. I usually shoot aperture priority and bump the ISO when needed. On the Fuji's this just means setting ISO to your choice, shutter speed to auto and adjust the aperture on the lens.
 
I've never really used auto ISO apart from trying it out to make sure it works. I usually shoot aperture priority and bump the ISO when needed. On the Fuji's this just means setting ISO to your choice, shutter speed to auto and adjust the aperture on the lens.
That what I like to do guess I need get some fast lens for low light.

The 18-135 is a nice sharp Len for good lights
 
That what I like to do guess I need get some fast lens for low light.

The 18-135 is a nice sharp Len for good lights

Don't be scared to bump the iso when it's needed. The Fuji handles high ISO very well. And if your subject is fairly static the IS will help too. So you don't have to rush for the fast lenses.
 
Does LR CC support X-T1 raw files?? as read somewhere that LR doesn't unless that old news

I'm using LR CC, absolutely know problems whatsoever. (y)

LoL already have yesterday ha ha

Just trying get hang of it ie whether live ISO in auto or the like.

What your prefer set up??

I've been using auto ISO with aperture & shutter speed in manual. It does have a tendency to set the ISO a little high though so over exposure isn't uncommon (but only a little and there is hardly any noise, if any).

Looking forward to the new firmware update as it allows exposure compensation in that set up apparently.
 
I am happy go ISO 5000 in raw anything above need be JPEG. Anyone else finds this?
 
Why are a lot of you using auto ISO ?,with the control dial so conveniently placed it so easy to switch :)

Have to be honest here and say that I find the ISO a tad tricky as you have to hold the button down for each turn (compared to the shutter speed dial where you only have to hold the button down to move it from auto). As I suffer from paresthesias, auto ISO is a godsend, especially as It wasn't available in Manual on my DSLR.
 
Went out to a local time trial as i wanted to test the new lens but it wasn't on so i went in search of the light. A few stop offs on the way rendered these pics. I fluffed #3 with the tricky lighting conditions and have had to rescue it in PP... It's held together ok but it is starting to show the signs of being pulled about. Definately need some filters, grads in particular.

The 23mm lens is just sex. It is so fricken awesome.


Sunset peeking through
by David Raynham, on Flickr


The Tree
by David Raynham, on Flickr


Lines
by David Raynham, on Flickr

But then again i can't decide if the 50-140 is optically better... :thinking:


The Tree and The Church
by David Raynham, on Flickr


Lines
by David Raynham, on Flickr


Lamb
by David Raynham, on Flickr


Lamb
by David Raynham, on Flickr


A Green Porsche
by David Raynham, on Flickr

James, thanks for the kind words. The 50-140 is indeed a very good lens, but it's a heavy lens, especially coming from the 55-230 XC lens. It's ok when you have it on a strap though. When i needed to switch lenses tonight it was nice to have it hanging from my shoulder sling and i could just hand hold the camera with the 23 attatched. I think the 55-200 is probably the best all rounder and although slower, it's still got a better aperture than your previous lens and alot of other lenses from other manufacturers in this range. Having said that, i haven't used it so i'm only going on what people have said in the past and produced with it.
 
David you really do show what this camera is capable of. God knows how you manage to get stunning images. I've not cracked it yet

Any those landscape be processed much ur cracking up saturation or anything. Via LR
 
David you really do show what this camera is capable of. God knows how you manage to get stunning images. I've not cracked it yet

You've only had it a day!!

Any those landscape be processed much ur cracking up saturation or anything. Via LR

Not really. I waited for the sun to do it all for me. :D The rapeseed fields have had the Provia or Astia profile applied to them in Lr as has the second 'Lines' shot.
 
Fantastic set David I especially like the first two
 
What metering u use
 
Strange number 3 for me I like that one
 
Awesome shots David. Loving 'lines' and the Porsche.
That 23mm sure is nice. So I reckon I'm going for the 55-200 as I can't justify the price of the 50-140. Now do I save after and get the 56mm or the 23mm? Dam fuji and there awesome lenses!
 
60s-1/32000 shutter speed, don't see many cameras that go to 60s? Looks quite nice tho, shame it doesn't come with the 18-55
 
Is the X-T10 supposed to be significantly smaller? I'm struggling to see how they are going to distance it from the X-T1 at the moment. As it stands it's exactly the camera I would loved to have bought when I picked up my second X-T1 (particularly if it is a bit smaller and has v4 of the X-T1 firmware), I'm an Auto ISO kinda person so the lack of an ISO dial is no problem and otherwise the layout seems similar enough.

I've decided with a somewhat heavy heart to drop the 23 and 50-140 so I will stick them up in the Classifieds later. Both superb pieces of glass but I'm going to go with a 16/35/56/90 combo for future weddings (probably only taking 2 or 3 of those dependent on venue size) as I'm a prime shooter at heart and it will reduce the weight of my kit even further. I still have a 55-200 which is working perfectly well for motorsport and will keep me going until the 100-400 comes out.
 
It originally said there would be two options, 16-50 or 18-55. I will probably just buy it body only though from DR/Panamoz. Well, providing it's priced accordingly to position in the line up. I also think the silver works this time with it just being the top/bottom plate and not all over the back aswell.

Win.

The Oly's did 60s btw.
 
Very usage dependent. Shooting at motorsport events where the camera is left on all day with shots being fired very, very frequently I can comfortably manage 1000 shots. Shooting a wedding I was changing my batteries every 300 shots (as soon as it dropped to two bars) because they fall off a cliff when they do go.

I would say an average of 500 photos per battery, personally, that's using the EVF, no flash and occasionally reviewing images.

Can you tell me what settings you are using? I went to the South Lakes Zoo and walking round taking shots as and when the presented themselves a fully charged, new, genuine Fuji battery was empty in less then 2.5 hours. Fewer than 200 shots, probably closer to 100. How have you got your power management set?
I have noticed that my rear screen seldom goes off which must be draining the battery. I can set auto power off, but the minimum time is 2 minutes, and the slightest touch on any button cancels the timer and starts again.
So what am I doing that uses batteries at such an alarming rate. I took 2000 shots at Oulton Park on my 5D3 on less than a full battery, surely the Fuji has to be somewhere comparable?
 
@mickledore Your never going to get anywhere near comarible with your 5D3, afaik all mirrorless have the same issues.

You could improve your battery life by turning off the LCD, i think there is even an option to put the evf only on the eye sensor. No chimping, but if its absolutley necessary then do it through the evf. This is my setup and generally my original fuji battery will last most of the day and give me around 300-350 shots
 
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@mickledore Your never going to get anywhere near comarible with your 5D3, afaik all mirrorless have the same issues.

You could improve your battery life by turning off the LCD, i think there is even an option to put the evf only on the eye sensor. No chimping, but if its absolutley necessary then do it through the evf. This is my setup and generally my original fuji battery will last most of the day and give me around 300-350 shots
Thanks, I realise that I won't be near the Canon, but less then 3 hours/200 shots is bordering on the ridiculous. I'm assuming that the rear screen is the cause of the battery drain, but can't seem to find a way of setting it to switch off after say 30 secs. It seems to be either always on or always off. I'm just wondering if I've missed a setting somewhere?
 
Thanks, I realise that I won't be near the Canon, but less then 3 hours/200 shots is bordering on the ridiculous. I'm assuming that the rear screen is the cause of the battery drain, but can't seem to find a way of setting it to switch off after say 30 secs. It seems to be either always on or always off. I'm just wondering if I've missed a setting somewhere?
There is a setting in the menu, dont have the camrea to hand so not sure where, which allows you to switch it off. It will help a lot with battery drain.
 
Actually taking about the Lakes Wildlife park I love that place but its been a few years since I was there, will have to make a trip soon

lake district 027.jpg by Steve Vickers, on Flickr

Alright its a few year ago and not taken with the X-T1 but at least it was a fuji, the S602 to be precise, my first proper digital camera and one of the reasons I'm using Fuji now :)
 
What lens are you using? If it's one with OIS then you can set it to only activate on shutter press.

Also, if the battery was spanking new it doesn't hold charge properly until it has been cycled a few times.

Kill the screen, set the power management to normal. Having said that, my screen is usually always on and it's set to high performance mode. My Fuji battery is in the bag and i have been using my Ex-Pro battery for the past month.
 
What lens are you using? If it's one with OIS then you can set it to only activate on shutter press.

Also, if the battery was spanking new it doesn't hold charge properly until it has been cycled a few times.

Kill the screen, set the power management to normal. Having said that, my screen is usually always on and it's set to high performance mode. My Fuji battery is in the bag and i have been using my Ex-Pro battery for the past month.
At the zoo I was principally using the 55-200, but we were on a mini break and all weekend I had the same problem when using the 18-55, although drain certainly seemed faster with the longer lens. They both have OIS; I didn't know about the shutter press feature. How do I set that? The switch is either on or off. I presume that's somewhere deep in the menu as well?

Edit.. I found the OIS switch, and have set it to shooting only. That could help.
 
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