Show us yer film shots then!

OM-4
Ilford HP5+

East Mill Cotton Co Door, Belper, Derbyshire

54705743116_0547df9943_b.jpg
 
ChrisR said:
I do like that. So often utility wires are just an annoyance, it's nice to see than used to enhance the image!
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Thanks Chris. I know a lot of people dislike pylons and power lines, but I think they make for interesting subjects either as the focus of, or in support of a composition.

Out of interest, I searched for power lines on my Flickr account and it brought up 144 images. :)

www.flickr.com

Flickr Search — “power lines”

www.flickr.com www.flickr.com

I've also got a collection called Pylons.
 
Nikon F90X, 20-35 2.8, spot meter
Kentmere 200 at box
Adox HC 110 Dilution B, five and half mins @20.6 finish 21.7

Four drying Garlic bulbs

Garlic.jpg
 
Cluster said:
I imagine that a scene like this is very difficult to get a brightness and detail balance. I'm sure that if tried this, most would be deep shadow or totally blown, or maybe both.... one for bracketing for me.
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Metering on a scene like this is a usually a nightmare, but I have learnt to trust the inbuilt lens meter I have on the GM670, it does a surprisingly (for 1974 technology) decent job, and even manages to balance out things like white cars (which I remember throwing my EOS1000 back in the day into a frenzy). It still makes mistakes but these are rare, more mistakes are made by the operator getting accurate focus on a tired rangefinder mechanism!!


Fujica GM670-1 by David Yeoman, on Flickr

Lightmeter sensor is inside the lens, ASA (ISO) set on outer dial, then pressing a button on side of lightmeter gives a reading. If you put the lens into "A" it works in aperture priority.

I often shoot it wide open, and add ND filters to get an acceptable shutter speed, it meters quite happily through the ND filters!
 
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Cluster said:
I imagine that a scene like this is very difficult to get a brightness and detail balance. I'm sure that if tried this, most would be deep shadow or totally blown, or maybe both.... one for bracketing for me.
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Well e.g. a Canon T90 with 300TL flashgun would save on film waste as it measures the subject and background or ambient light and automatically works out/balances the exposure.
 
Nikon F90X, 20-35 2.8, spot meter
Kentmere 200 at box
Adox HC 110 Dilution B, five and half mins @20.6 finish 21.7
No PP

Hay Three Ways


Hay three way.jpg
 
Nikon F90X, 20-35 2.8, spot meter
Kentmere 200 at box
Adox HC 110 Dilution B, five and half mins @20.6 finish 21.7

Cornucopia

Cornucopia 1.jpg

I am a bit disappointed with this shot, it has not turned out anything like I envisaged.
I think I have missed the focus slightly (now I mention it seems to be a common theme)
and the LHS is too bright

This one is a bit snappier but I have lost the "Tunnel" effect I was looking for.

Cornucopia 2.jpg

Advice/comments please
 
Barney said:
Nikon F90X, 20-35 2.8, spot meter
Kentmere 200 at box
Adox HC 110 Dilution B, five and half mins @20.6 finish 21.7

Cornucopia

View attachment 460516

I am a bit disappointed with this shot, it has not turned out anything like I envisaged.
I think I have missed the focus slightly (now I mention it seems to be a common theme)
and the LHS is too bright

This one is a bit snappier but I have lost the "Tunnel" effect I was looking for.

View attachment 460518

Advice/comments please
Click to expand...
I'd also like to know how to deal with a scene like this.... It's one that I would not expect to work for me.
 
Barney said:
Nikon F90X, 20-35 2.8, spot meter
Kentmere 200 at box
Adox HC 110 Dilution B, five and half mins @20.6 finish 21.7

Cornucopia

View attachment 460516

I am a bit disappointed with this shot, it has not turned out anything like I envisaged.
I think I have missed the focus slightly (now I mention it seems to be a common theme)
and the LHS is too bright

This one is a bit snappier but I have lost the "Tunnel" effect I was looking for.

View attachment 460518

Advice/comments please
Click to expand...
Was it a bright day (I'm guessing it was from the highlights)? If so, I would suggest photographing it on an overcast day where the extremes of light are lessened and the dynamic range of the scene reduced. Or shoot it early / late in the day when the sun is much lower.

It'll be quite shady in the corn rows, so you'll need to decide what to expose for, perhaps letting parts of the scene fall away into deep shadow.
 
Hi Nige,

Thanks for taking the trouble to try and help.

It was very early in the morning, although bright, before rain was forcast, I reckon 6 - 6:30 ish and i just followed the meter- don't recall the exact setting

shutter speeds were low and probably accounts for the focus issue, its to close to the ground for a tripod so was thinking a box and timer or something.

It did go through my mind to pull out the two clumps of grass, but it was not my property so caution rather than valor was the order of the day.

I will have another look in the morning and take your advice and go a bit earlier, its quieter then.

One stop or more underexposure do you think?
 
Barney said:
Hi Nige,

Thanks for taking the trouble to try and help.

It was very early in the morning, although bright, before rain was forcast, I reckon 6 - 6:30 ish and i just followed the meter- don't recall the exact setting

shutter speeds were low and probably accounts for the focus issue, its to close to the ground for a tripod so was thinking a box and timer or something.

It did go through my mind to pull out the two clumps of grass, but it was not my property so caution rather than valor was the order of the day.

I will have another look in the morning and take your advice and go a bit earlier, its quieter then.

One stop or more underexposure do you think?
Click to expand...
Ideally, meter the scene if you have a suitable way of doing so. That way you can calculate the settings for how you envisage the picture. If not, them maybe bracket your shots, taking one 1-stop under, and another 2-stops under to see how they come out. It may require experimentation, especially if the conditions differ when you take the pictures.

That's how I'd approach it. There are undoubtedly voices of greater experience on the forum who may be able to offer better advice. :)
 
FishyFish said:
Ideally, meter the scene if you have a suitable way of doing so. That way you can calculate the settings for how you envisage the picture. If not, them maybe bracket your shots, taking one 1-stop under, and another 2-stops under to see how they come out. It may require experimentation, especially if the conditions differ when you take the pictures.

That's how I'd approach it. There are undoubtedly voices of greater experience on the forum who may be able to offer better advice. :)
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The hardest part is getting up after being lied down on my belly.

Thanks for the "stops under" advice the OM2n has an exposure compensation dial so might try to use that,
 
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