Olympus OM-D E-M5, E-M1, E-M10 - Mk1, Mk2 & Mk3 Owners Thread

A old photo I stumbled across from 2020 1st week with then new 300mm pro amazing what you can take with old tech:D


on the hunt by mazdaman2008, on Flickr
 
Im wanting to get back into macro photos and am thinking about trying to pick up a second hand em-1 III. Its going to be with the Olympus 60 mm macro.
I currently have a pany gh5. My question is will is see any improvement in picture quality between the two cameras as I am guessing they are the same sensor?
 
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Ive got an itch to upgrade my EM1 Mk1. Ive got too many M43 lenses so not interested in changing systems.. I am considering moving the Mk2.
The only issues I have in the Mk1 is focus speed in low light, my old D300 was amazing in that regard. I wouldn't mind better low light dynamic range, but not essential.
The Mk3 is out of budget, the mk3 EM5 a bit of a stretch, but Mk2 is within budget. From what I have read the EM5 Mk3 and EM1 Mk2 are roughly on par - is that correct? Also, is there much improvement in focus speed and accuracy between the Mk1 and Mk2 EM1's?
For reference the lenses I have are
Samyang 7.5
Oly 9-18
Panasonic 12-35
Oly 17mm 1.7
Oly 25mm 1.8
Panasonic 35-100
Oly 45mm
Oly 60mm macro
 
Ive got an itch to upgrade my EM1 Mk1. Ive got too many M43 lenses so not interested in changing systems.. I am considering moving the Mk2.
The only issues I have in the Mk1 is focus speed in low light, my old D300 was amazing in that regard. I wouldn't mind better low light dynamic range, but not essential.
The Mk3 is out of budget, the mk3 EM5 a bit of a stretch, but Mk2 is within budget. From what I have read the EM5 Mk3 and EM1 Mk2 are roughly on par - is that correct? Also, is there much improvement in focus speed and accuracy between the Mk1 and Mk2 EM1's?
For reference the lenses I have are
Samyang 7.5
Oly 9-18
Panasonic 12-35
Oly 17mm 1.7
Oly 25mm 1.8
Panasonic 35-100
Oly 45mm
Oly 60mm macro
I.q wise the mkii is a far superior body , just check the rubber grips though as they often stretch and come unstuck
 
Im wanting to get back into macro photos and am thinking about trying to pick up a second hand em-1 III. Its going to be with the Olympus 60 mm macro.
I currently have a pany gh5. My question is will is see any improvement in picture quality between the two cameras as I am guessing they are the same sensor?
Not sure about a improvement in in i.q ,but you will get lots more useability and functions I.e with the macro focus bracketing and focus stacking . Olympus lenses work far better on olympus bodies
 
I.q wise the mkii is a far superior body , just check the rubber grips though as they often stretch and come unstuck
Odd I didn’t find the Mark II that much of a step up in IQ over the Mark I. It’s better for sure but not huge, AF is a huge improvement though especially AF-C.
 
Not sure about a improvement in in i.q ,but you will get lots more useability and functions I.e with the macro focus bracketing and focus stacking . Olympus lenses work far better on olympus bodies
Do they, fair enough if its one with sync is, but overall I think its negligible if at all.
I use mainly Panasonic cameras with Olympus lenses and never see any difference to when they are used on my E-M1 ii.
Panasonic cameras even give the ability to use the Lens Fn button now, not that I ever have wanted to.
 
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Ive got an itch to upgrade my EM1 Mk1. Ive got too many M43 lenses so not interested in changing systems.. I am considering moving the Mk2.
The only issues I have in the Mk1 is focus speed in low light, my old D300 was amazing in that regard. I wouldn't mind better low light dynamic range, but not essential.
The Mk3 is out of budget, the mk3 EM5 a bit of a stretch, but Mk2 is within budget. From what I have read the EM5 Mk3 and EM1 Mk2 are roughly on par - is that correct? Also, is there much improvement in focus speed and accuracy between the Mk1 and Mk2 EM1's?
For reference the lenses I have are
Samyang 7.5
Oly 9-18
Panasonic 12-35
Oly 17mm 1.7
Oly 25mm 1.8
Panasonic 35-100
Oly 45mm
Oly 60mm macro

E-M1 ii does give an increase in overall performance, also eliminated the strap lug and malfunctioning rear dial issue.
I believe it also has a redesigned shutter that negates the shutter shock problem.
AF is better and IQ mainly because of the extra mp, different battery gives longer usage times too.

Its true the rubber grips do come unstuck, but not for everybody, must be different natural oils/sweatiness.
Unfortunately replacements are no longer available as spares unless you buy the antipodean supplied 3d printed jobs.

E-M5 iii is essentially the same in performance as the E-M1 ii with a few pros and cons.
Biggest difference for me are the possible durability issues with the smaller camera.
No problem with plastic bodied cameras generally, but have seen more than one 5 iii with a cracked bottom plate.
 
Received my HLD-10 battery grip and free battery today for the OM-1 from SRS Microsystems.

1st Impressions, well as expected using the OM-1 with the grip and my larger lenses (40-150 F2.8, 300mm F4 etc.) certainly makes the handling much better, and having the benefit of the second battery is great (although the original battery I've never even close to run down yet). However, those of you (like me) that were expecting the OM1 with Grip to feel relatively similar to the handling of the EM1-X will be sorely disappointed. I have to say it's got nowhere near the comfortable grip that the EM1-X has and I don't know what it is about the HLD-10, but it just doesn't feel as ergonomic. It's still pretty well built and doesn't move at all when screwed onto the OM-1 but overall, somehow, it' just doesn't feel as comfortable as either the EM1-X or dare I say it, the previous MK111 body with the HLD-9 grip ?

Still glad I have it though.
 
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For my E-M1ii, I have 3 lenses which have the manual focus clutch. As expected, with the 12-100 when the clutch is activated then focus assist (magnify, peaking) comes into play. However, on my 12mm f2 and 17mm f1.8, it doesn't. Is this normal for these 2 lenses?
 
For my E-M1ii, I have 3 lenses which have the manual focus clutch. As expected, with the 12-100 when the clutch is activated then focus assist (magnify, peaking) comes into play. However, on my 12mm f2 and 17mm f1.8, it doesn't. Is this normal for these 2 lenses?
Yes it is.
 
Presumably you could activate it from the menu or perhaps assign it to a button.

Sold all my primes years ago, just use the 12-100 for almost everything these days.
Apparently not. The only way is to switch to m/f from the camera, which is not as convenient and removes visibility of the focus scale and use of end stops.
I have a set of light primes for when I want a light setup and wider apertures, otherwise I use the 12-100.
 
E-M1 ii does give an increase in overall performance, also eliminated the strap lug and malfunctioning rear dial issue.
I believe it also has a redesigned shutter that negates the shutter shock problem.
AF is better and IQ mainly because of the extra mp, different battery gives longer usage times too.

Its true the rubber grips do come unstuck, but not for everybody, must be different natural oils/sweatiness.
Unfortunately replacements are no longer available as spares unless you buy the antipodean supplied 3d printed jobs.

E-M5 iii is essentially the same in performance as the E-M1 ii with a few pros and cons.
Biggest difference for me are the possible durability issues with the smaller camera.
No problem with plastic bodied cameras generally, but have seen more than one 5 iii with a cracked bottom plate.
The em5 mk3 would be very tempting but it would be double the cost to change I think.
EDIT
I may be wrong on that. Ebay prices are much closer than MPB, EM5 mk3s are going for under 600.
 
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Presumably you could activate it from the menu or perhaps assign it to a button.

Apparently not. The only way is to switch to m/f from the camera, which is not as convenient and removes visibility of the focus scale and use of end stops.

I have peaking set to Fn2 assigned through the Super Control Panel on my E-M10ii.
Using the f1.8 17mm I just slide the focus clutch which sets the camera to Manual focus and press the button.
Surprised you don't have an assignable button on the E-M1ii ?
 
I have peaking set to Fn2 assigned through the Super Control Panel on my E-M10ii.
Using the f1.8 17mm I just slide the focus clutch which sets the camera to Manual focus and press the button.
Surprised you don't have an assignable button on the E-M1ii ?
I shall try this. However, if I set the camera to manual focus by an assigned button then slide the lens clutch, peaking etc is disabled. With the clutch in its normal position, obviously I get focus assist. But even if it worked, it would mean two separate actions to achieve what I can do in one with the 12-100.

EDIT using fn2, I can activate EITHER magnify OR peaking, but not both.
 
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However, if I set the camera to manual focus by an assigned button then slide the lens clutch, peaking etc is disabled.

I set my camera up several years ago and don't tend to change things. I'm starting with the camera in P with S-AF set as default.
Sliding the clutch puts the camera into MF without any button presses.
Then a press of Fn2 enables peaking.
I can enable peaking without engaging MF via the clutch using Fn2 too where it overlays the EVF but the camera is focusing.

Not sure if that was any help - happy to poke in the settings if I can help.
 
Apparently not. The only way is to switch to m/f from the camera, which is not as convenient and removes visibility of the focus scale and use of end stops.
I have a set of light primes for when I want a light setup and wider apertures, otherwise I use the 12-100.

I had them for the very same reason, but found I just kept one attached which was mainly the 15/1.7
Once i got the 12-100 it did everything so well that I gave up on primes completely.
An ultra wide something like a 10/1.4 would be tempting, but that's about it.

I think the manual focus assist is another of those functions Olympus keep for the Pro range of lenses.
Same way that sync is doesn't work with the fairly new 100-400, but does with the 12-100 and 300
 
I set my camera up several years ago and don't tend to change things. I'm starting with the camera in P with S-AF set as default.
Sliding the clutch puts the camera into MF without any button presses.
Then a press of Fn2 enables peaking.
I can enable peaking without engaging MF via the clutch using Fn2 too where it overlays the EVF but the camera is focusing.

Not sure if that was any help - happy to poke in the settings if I can help.
Thanks -see my edit above which I was writing the same time as you! Basically, I cannot achieve both focus assist AND peaking at the same time. Granted, it's not something I want to do most days, but it would have been nice for it to have the same functionality as the 12-100.
 
Apparently not. The only way is to switch to m/f from the camera, which is not as convenient and removes visibility of the focus scale and use of end stops.
I have a set of light primes for when I want a light setup and wider apertures, otherwise I use the 12-100.
This is quite fascinating. I haven’t used these lenses in a while but I do remember peaking not always working as expected. I always meant to look into it, so thanks for raising this.

I’ve just tried the 12mm on the EM1iii. As you say, when you pull back the clutch, there is no peaking, however my camera was set to C-Af with MF (due to last being out photographing birds) - with this, the peaking does show when I manually focus- providing I haven’t pulled back the clutch! So there is little point using the clutch.
 
This is quite fascinating. I haven’t used these lenses in a while but I do remember peaking not always working as expected. I always meant to look into it, so thanks for raising this.

I’ve just tried the 12mm on the EM1iii. As you say, when you pull back the clutch, there is no peaking, however my camera was set to C-Af with MF (due to last being out photographing birds) - with this, the peaking does show when I manually focus- providing I haven’t pulled back the clutch! So there is little point using the clutch.
Quite! However, personally I prefer physical controls where possible therefore to me it’s more intuitive to pull-push. Plus I find it very useful to have hard-stops (at infinity and close-up) and I think it feels better. Having said all that, it’s not often I use manual focus. I just like consistency.
 
Quite! However, personally I prefer physical controls where possible therefore to me it’s more intuitive to pull-push. Plus I find it very useful to have hard-stops (at infinity and close-up) and I think it feels better. Having said all that, it’s not often I use manual focus. I just like consistency.
I prefer physical controls too and love the MF clutch. At least I now know how it works, and it is not as I expected. I was foxed as to why sometimes I got the peaking and sometimes I didn't, but inevitably it was when I was out in some poorly lit room without the time to play.

I have been using C-Af + MF a lot lately with the 300mm +1.4 extender. If a bird is against a busy background and the camera is struggling, I have a chance with the focus peaking of trying to get some in focus.

Edit: I can get focus peaking and the magnify option, but only when I have actually set it to MF within the camera (which I think is what you know already).... so I guess if you can set a button to switch between manual and auto focus, then maybe it would work with one button press ( providing you have left it set up in the menu).

Edit 2: Actually this is great!! I've finally found a use for the Function Lever, which until now has been surplus to requirements. I've now set it, so that in position 2 it is manual focus. So with a flick of the lever, I can go into peaking and magnify. So thanks @Stephen L very much for helping me on my journey.... although it might all change when I get the OM1 :)
 
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I prefer physical controls too and love the MF clutch. At least I now know how it works, and it is not as I expected. I was foxed as to why sometimes I got the peaking and sometimes I didn't, but inevitably it was when I was out in some poorly lit room without the time to play.

I have been using C-Af + MF a lot lately with the 300mm +1.4 extender. If a bird is against a busy background and the camera is struggling, I have a chance with the focus peaking of trying to get some in focus.

Edit: I can get focus peaking and the magnify option, but only when I have actually set it to MF within the camera (which I think is what you know already).... so I guess if you can set a button to switch between manual and auto focus, then maybe it would work with one button press ( providing you have left it set up in the menu).

Edit 2: Actually this is great!! I've finally found a use for the Function Lever, which until now has been surplus to requirements. I've now set it, so that in position 2 it is manual focus. So with a flick of the lever, I can go into peaking and magnify. So thanks @Stephen L very much for helping me on my journey.... although it might all change when I get the OM1 :)
That’s a useful thought. At the moment my only use for the lever in position 2 is to set the front wheel to ISO.
 
In regard to the Fn Lever I use it to switch from single centre(home) AF point and 'area' AF zone.

That setting/usage is independent of Custom settings usage so for example ~ if using single AF point with C-AF (custom setup) and the bird takes flight you can switch to a pre-configured zone AF as/if needed
 
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In regard to the Fn Lever I use it to switch from single centre(home) AF point and 'area' AF zone.

That setting/usage is independent of Custom settings usage so for example ~ if using single AF point with C-AF (custom setup) and the bird takes flight you can switch to a pre-configured zone AF as/of needed
I think that was what mine was set to previously, but I never remembered or used it.

I've set the group focus points to give priority to the centre point and to start at the centre point, so I could use a cross or grid configuration and feel reasonably confident I'll get the part I want in focus for birds.

There are so many customisable buttons and options, it might make a good party game where we all had to swap cameras :ROFLMAO::ROFLMAO:
 
I think that was what mine was set to previously, but I never remembered or used it.

I've set the group focus points to give priority to the centre point and to start at the centre point, so I could use a cross or grid configuration and feel reasonably confident I'll get the part I want in focus for birds.

There are so many customisable buttons and options, it might make a good party game where we all had to swap cameras :ROFLMAO::ROFLMAO:

I have oft described modern digital cameras as computers with lenses attached. Potentially no two users in a group get-together will have identical camera configuration!


The likes of Olympus mFT cameras are perhaps a/the pinnacle of such a description ???
 
I have the 1-mkiii and my normal working lens is a 100-400 which covers most of my needs , being on a pension my purchasing power is limited and I simply could not afford a a 300mm f4 olympus lens .
However a couple of months ago I did a deal with a good friend and aquired a Nikon 300mm f4 A-FS with a broken focus motor . Got it dirt cheap ,and using it via adaptor and with focus peaking I find that I can even get birds in flight with it .. in my opion olympus have got the best MF system I have ever used .. the bonus being that the Nikon 300mm f4 is one of the best and sharpest primes Nikon ever made
 
Received my HLD-10 battery grip and free battery today for the OM-1 from SRS Microsystems.

1st Impressions, well as expected using the OM-1 with the grip and my larger lenses (40-150 F2.8, 300mm F4 etc.) certainly makes the handling much better, and having the benefit of the second battery is great (although the original battery I've never even close to run down yet). However, those of you (like me) that were expecting the OM1 with Grip to feel relatively similar to the handling of the EM1-X will be sorely disappointed. I have to say it's got nowhere near the comfortable grip that the EM1-X has and I don't know what it is about the HLD-10, but it just doesn't feel as ergonomic. It's still pretty well built and doesn't move at all when screwed onto the OM-1 but overall, somehow, it' just doesn't feel as comfortable as either the EM1-X or dare I say it, the previous MK111 body with the HLD-9 grip ?

Still glad I have it though.
.... As an E-M1X user that's disappointing to hear but at least it will provide better grip than no grip! Plus I am someone who needs a second battery onboard.
 
I have oft described modern digital cameras as computers with lenses attached. Potentially no two users in a group get-together will have identical camera configuration!


The likes of Olympus mFT cameras are perhaps a/the pinnacle of such a description ???
What I love about the way you can customise the camera is that you can set it up for something specific you want to do.

Then quite a few months later, you peruse the manual to find out how to do something specific (with an aim to setting up the controls to do that) and discover they are already set up... :ROFLMAO:
 
What I love about the way you can customise the camera is that you can set it up for something specific you want to do.

Then quite a few months later, you peruse the manual to find out how to do something specific (with an aim to setting up the controls to do that) and discover they are already set up... :ROFLMAO:

Such are the benefits of creating 'Custom Settings' sets. Oh and the "My Menu" that first appeared on the Mk3 :D
 
There are still things I haven't explored - such as the teleconverter. Does anybody use it?
.... Do you mean the MC-14, MC-20 teleconverters?

I often use the MC-14 and occasionally the MC-20. Both very useful options if either your subject is distant or you want to not disturb your subject (wildlife). The built-in 1.25x option on the 150-400mm TC Pro is invaluable.

In the past I often read reports of loss of image quality with the teleconverters/converters from other camera brands but this simply is not so with Olympus/OM.
 
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