Why use high ISO

Jocky

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Hi,

I honestly dont know why anyone uses high ISO.

Higher ISO settings make the images noisy. I see that there are lots of noise reduction software choices but to me that just gives you a method of making the picture look like it was taken at a lower ISO setting.

I must be missing something! Can someone please explain it.

CHEERS
 
If you did not have the option of using high ISO settings, then taking photographs in other than perfect conditions would be almost impossible.
A portrait photographer working with flash in a studio may be able to use 100/200 ISO all the time, in order to produce pefect, flattering shots.
A sports photographer working in demanding conditions, fading light, requiring fast shutter speeds and fast, long lenses will be forced to use high ISO settings.
 
Or a wedding photographer in a dark church in winter that's not allowed to use flash. "Sorry bride and groom, I didn't get any shots of your ceremony because I didn't want to use a high iso and get slightly noisy images".
Don't think that would go down too well, hope you get the idea. :-)
 
Hi,

I honestly dont know why anyone uses high ISO.

Higher ISO settings make the images noisy. I see that there are lots of noise reduction software choices but to me that just gives you a method of making the picture look like it was taken at a lower ISO setting.

I must be missing something! Can someone please explain it.

CHEERS

Wide open, most lenses aren't at their best. At slow shutter speeds, there is a good chance of camera shake. At high ISO, there is increased noise and lower contrast.

Unfortunately, a tripod isn't always an option, so getting a proper exposure is going to be a compromise in one or more ways. Noise can be removed, but depth of field can't be increased and camera shake can't be corrected in PP. As a result, using a high ISO is often the best option available for getting a good shot.
 
As above, and many modern cameras - particularly FF models - are capable of shooting at 'high' ISOs with remarkably little noise.
 
For someone who doesn't ever just 'have to get the shot' high ISOs must be a curiosity. If you're in a position where you can choose to put your camea away when the conditions aren't ideal, why would you shoot a noisy picture?

But for anyone who shoots seriously or pofessionally, then beautifully clean* high ISO images from modern cameras are a godsend.

Most people that complain about 'noise' have never printed a high iso image and have never used fast film. They just look at their low iso and high iso images and think somehow the high iso images are wrong.

*Beautifully clean compared to older digital cameras or film.
 
I honestly don't know why anyone doesn't use high ISO.

I use it when:

-I want to maintain shutter speed in less than perfect light, e.g your average British airshow, or indoor pictures of my daughter running and playing when I don't have a speedlight

-In places where flash photography isn't allowed.

-In places where tripods are either a hindrance, impractical or not allowed.

Modern SLR's allow you to use high ISO's with comparatively noise low levels. I've printed an ISO 6400 image at A3 with hardly any noise visible.

Ultimately, it's better to have a noisier photograph of something, than nothing at all IMO.
 
I must be missing something! Can someone please explain it.

CHEERS

You're at a music gig, and it's dark. You have a 50mm 1.4 lens. At ISO 100 even at f1.4, your shutter speed is 1/8th.. what do you do? Shrug your shoulders and go home? You can't take a hand held photo at 1/8th second.

or... do you up the ISO.

1/8th @ ISO100
1/15th @ ISO200
1/30th @ ISO400
1/60th @ ISO800
1/125th @ISO1600

The choice is yours.

This is nothing new.. back in the film days it was very common to load up with ISO400 film then underexpose it by 2 stops to get you to ISO1600 by "pushing" the processing. Some of the most influential images ever taken were done in this manner due to not having ideal conditions.

Also, I'm not sure what you are shooting on, but these days high ISO does not mean lots of noise.

Here's a test shot I too when I was testing the high ISO noise of the D800. (click to view full res)



That's at ISO1600. In the above scenario, I could have shot at 1/125th at at ISO1600 and got some great shots. I hope that answers your question.
 
Thanks for all the replies.
The only images I have ever printed onto paper are ones I produce from 3D Modeling software where every conceivable variation to a pixel is accommodated. ISO is not one of the settings and I guess I am trying to find an equivalent.

I understand that if you need to get paid you need a picture to sell and something is better than nothing. This of course does not apply to me as if it is noisy I just delete the pic.

CHEERS
 
I understand that if you need to get paid you need a picture to sell and something is better than nothing.

So you're not happy unless there is NO noise.. even if you view it at 400% in photoshop? You must be throwing away a great deal of images then.
 
Pookeyhead said:
So you're not happy unless there is NO noise.. even if you view it at 400% in photoshop? You must be throwing away a great deal of images then.

This. You can print images with a surprising level of noise that turn out great because ink bleeds.
 
So you're not happy unless there is NO noise.. even if you view it at 400% in photoshop? You must be throwing away a great deal of images then.

Why would I view at 400% ?

My old Fuji is pretty good at getting images below the " Jocky Noise Threshold" but I do have a low tolerance. I dont think I have kept any image taken over ISO 400.

CHEERS
 
Thanks for all the replies.
The only images I have ever printed onto paper are ones I produce from 3D Modeling software where every conceivable variation to a pixel is accommodated. ISO is not one of the settings and I guess I am trying to find an equivalent.

I understand that if you need to get paid you need a picture to sell and something is better than nothing. This of course does not apply to me as if it is noisy I just delete the pic.

CHEERS

Try turning all the lights right down on your 3d models. If you print the view -you'll not see your model. The software doesn't have ISO to turn up to make it visible, and in real life photographers can't always adjust the position, intensity and quality of the light.
 
Phil that last explanation dropped the penny for me. I see what you are saying. Thank you.

OK dumb question time.......

What difference would high ISO make in good conditions?

CHEERS
 
Phil that last explanation dropped the penny for me. I see what you are saying. Thank you.

OK dumb question time.......

What difference would high ISO make in good conditions?

CHEERS

It would add noise... as you already realise. In good conditions with enough light to use ISO100.. that's what you should be using unless you really really need a very high shutter speed. You use the lowest ISO you can get away with. Unfortunately, the lowest you can get away with may be ISO1600... or 3200 etc.
 
Jocky I think you may have a specific need in your shots and may not have a camera where high ISO is feature which may be tainting your view?

For example, if I want to walk around taking shots in the street at night I have no option but to use high ISO. If I had to stick to ISO 200 I wouldn't bother going out.
Even at f2 the shutter speed gets too low for handheld and no flash (neither of which I can use in these circumstances.
I am also happy with the images my camera produces at 1600 (and pretty much at 3200)
 
In the 'olden' days I used to push film to deliberately get noise when the subject suited it.

Presenting an image is possible in 1000s of different ways, colour/black white, contrast, colour balance, underexposed, etc etc. Noise is not always a bad thing. It is something that just needs to be understood.
 
Crikey, I've shot corporate events where the light has been circa f1.4, 1/30th, ISO3200....

A little bit of noise is nothing to worry about tbh, especially when pictures are getting printed relatively small, or destined for web.


I've shot, and worked on shoots, where we were shooting for full pages or even covers of national magazines, and sat quite happily at ISO 1600...


You're being too picky, enjoy your images for what they are, a picture that you did take is always going to be better than one that you didn't
 
You're being too picky, enjoy your images for what they are, a picture that you did take is always going to be better than one that you didn't




^^^^^This. +1
 
Phil that last explanation dropped the penny for me. I see what you are saying. Thank you.

OK dumb question time.......

What difference would high ISO make in good conditions?

CHEERS

You wouldn't use high ISO in good light - unless you wanted to for loss of image quality.

Just think of ISO 100 as being what you'd choose to use, you raise the ISO as necessay in oder to get the shot.
 
Crikey, I've shot corporate events where the light has been circa f1.4, 1/30th, ISO3200....

A little bit of noise is nothing to worry about tbh, especially when pictures are getting printed relatively small, or destined for web.


I've shot, and worked on shoots, where we were shooting for full pages or even covers of national magazines, and sat quite happily at ISO 1600...


You're being too picky, enjoy your images for what they are, a picture that you did take is always going to be better than one that you didn't

Just to be a smarty pants and out do you..... ( :D )

The following were shot at 04:30 on Tuesday morning, with not a lot of light about:

178204_10151170159808655_592185912_o.jpg


5DII, 6400, 24mm, f/1.4, 1/250th

171948_10151170159648655_2078134268_o.jpg


1DIV, 6400, 135mm, f/2, 1/30th


Yup there's noise if you go looking for it, but why would you?

The set was across the board in the Nationals online and also made some print editions.

High ISO is there for when you need it and personally there are times that I think it can add to an image to give atmosphere.
 
I dont think I am being picky.

I just did not understand ISO settings.

I do a lot of night photography but the Fuji has dedicated functions for bracketing and shooting in low light which work very well for me. The option exists to go fully manual and I like to experiment, but during my experiments I have not achieved anything like the quality of picture that the dedicated functions produce.

My type of low light / high ISO photography takes place on a tripod under conditions that I can walk away from and where the images are not being purchased and I am fully aware of the difference between me and someone doing photography for a living
 
I dont think I am being picky.

I just did not understand ISO settings.

I do a lot of night photography but the Fuji has dedicated functions for bracketing and shooting in low light which work very well for me. The option exists to go fully manual and I like to experiment, but during my experiments I have not achieved anything like the quality of picture that the dedicated functions produce.

My type of low light / high ISO photography takes place on a tripod under conditions that I can walk away from and where the images are not being purchased and I am fully aware of the difference between me and someone doing photography for a living

If you are doing night photography on a tripod you are much less likely to need high ISO (indeed using it could well spoil what you are doing) but handheld where tripod isn't an option or slow shutter speed would spoil the pic then high ISO gets the photo.
For example I took some sample photos inside a library in a stately home, the lights were off and the blinds were down providing only subdued light to protect the books and papers ... tripod wasn't an option so I shot at ISO 3200 and shot was a keeper.
 
Unless you're using a DX or Full frame sensored compact, then you're going to be disappointed at anything over 400,

Mileage varies. For screen viewing at about 1200x900 and printing mainly A4, ISO 400 was about my limit for bridge cameras (four generations back, Canon SX10, and six generations back, Canon S3). With MFT I'm not disappointed with 800, which I use very often, have recently been using 1600 more and (following recent experiments) may use 3200 sometimes next season. This is for invertebrates and flora.
 
Hi,

I honestly dont know why anyone uses high ISO.

Higher ISO settings make the images noisy. I see that there are lots of noise reduction software choices but to me that just gives you a method of making the picture look like it was taken at a lower ISO setting.

I must be missing something! Can someone please explain it.

CHEERS

I know why I use high ISO. Because it is the difference between getting the shot and not getting the shot. If you get the composition and exposure right, you really don't need to worry about a bit of noise, the shot will still be a good shot.
 
... What difference would high ISO make in good conditions?
Here's another example.
You're using an old Tamron zoom, fully zoomed to 300mm and pointed at a squirrel who is periodically running up and down a tree.
You want a sharp picture, your lens is crap until stopped down to F8, you don't want much motion blur and the target will be moving.
ISO100 is going to give you much too slow a shutterspeed even in bright daylight.
Let the camera up the ISO, shutterspeed goes into 'fast enough' territory : you can get the picture you want.

I just thought I'd mention this scenario since I didn't see it in the thread.
 
At what sort of light levels?

Are you using over ISO 400 in good lighting conditions?

CHEERS

If I needed a really fast shutter speed, then yes. On a bright sunny day I may well be able to get 1/1000th, but I may need to be at f2.8 to get it. If I need to shoot at f8 because I need more depth of field, then that would drop to 1/125th.. so I'd go up the same amount of stops in ISO to give the 1/1000th I need at f8.

You use what you need. Simple as that... but you always use the lowest ISO you can.. unless noise is is actually desirable for effect.
 
At what sort of light levels?

Are you using over ISO 400 in good lighting conditions?

CHEERS

When I am shooting butterflies/dragonflies on a well lit day (Summer, partial shade), my normal kit is an old 135 manual focus lens with 30mm to 50mm of extension tubes stuck in the back. I have to use f11 in order to maximise the DoF (or else the subject will not be sharp). My shutter speed is sometimes as low as 1/30th second (I prefer it to be 1/125th or 1/250th to get rid of any camera shake), and that is very often using between 400 - 800 ISO.
As others have pointed out, there is often no alternative - apart from leaving the camera at home and looking at everything which you are missing.
 
so that you can get a high enough shutter speed for the depth of field you require so that your image has no blur.

try taking low light shots at iso 100 and see what happens :cuckoo:

Hi,

I honestly dont know why anyone uses high ISO.

Higher ISO settings make the images noisy. I see that there are lots of noise reduction software choices but to me that just gives you a method of making the picture look like it was taken at a lower ISO setting.

I must be missing something! Can someone please explain it.

CHEERS
 
Its not just naccesity <spell?>... Some pictures look better wiht noise.. a picture of a rock band performing in a pub look better noisey than a good bright clean image wiht flash.. there are other situations. rough beats smooth now and then :)
 
At what sort of light levels?

Worst case, UK 100% thick cloud cover working under tree foliage with subject within vegetation with some of the vegetation above the subject, soon after dawn when light levels are still quite low.

I use very small apertures to get the most depth of field I can. This often leads to combinations of high ISO and slow shutter speeds. For example I quite often use (with ISO 800 or higher) exposures of longer than 1/10 sec, even with subjects that are moving a bit, like early morning slugs and snails for example, or subjects on leaves that are moving in the breeze.

I use a hybrid "hands-on tripod support" technique (with a strange, jointed-arm tripod) to (somewhat) damp down camera movements and to hold the composition/framing (somewhat) steady. Unless the conditions are optimal (e.g. post-dawn still air and a stationary subject, in which case I use a pure tripod, hands-off, remote shutter approach) I have a high failure rate and take many shots. Higher ISO shots can also need slightly more careful/more complicated post processing.

I do use flash sometimes, and perhaps not often enough, but that has its own mix of benefits and disbenefits. Whether I use flash or not depends on the ambient conditions of light and air movement, subject placement, size and movement, and my mood.

Are you using over ISO 400 in good lighting conditions?

In general, no. Occasionally, yes, when I need a faster shutter speed.

It's like David just said:

"You use what you need. Simple as that... but you always use the lowest ISO you can.. unless noise is is actually desirable for effect." (which it isn't for my stuff)

For me though, my preference for deep dof using available light determines what ISO/shutter speed combinations are available to me.
 
At what sort of light levels?

Are you using over ISO 400 in good lighting conditions?

CHEERS

Are you using an HS20 for your shots?

If so, you cannot really compare that to the folks shooting with a DSLR. Modern DSLR's have much better noise handling than your fuji so figures you are uncomfortable with will be very different on a dslr.
 
On my canon 550d I am not very comfortable going over ISO 1600, but did have to use 6400 once to get some indoor shots. Oh I wish I had a 70-200 2.8 instead of a 55-250 3.5-5.6!
 
you use the iso that get the shot or the desired effect you want to achieve,
like said in a studio low isos are used all the time , but there are pleanty of times high iso is needed and there no hiding from it, like weddings, sports photography, gig photography,wildlife photogrpahy, and much more.

One other thing to remember is that iso 200 on a hs20 is like is 3200 on my d700.
heres one at iso 25600 from my d700 yep i could of shot at a lower iso but this was for a thread a few months ago.
SJB_4396straightfromrrawedit2.jpg
 
I mistakenly plonked this in the wrong thread earlier:

There's another point that we're missing here ( or rather have so far)....

If you correctly expose a high ISO image ( either ETTR or otherwise), the subsequent noise will be minimised.

I'd rather see a well exposed frame at 6400 than a frame shot at 800 but four stops under. If you push ISO then more noise will result!
 
If you correctly expose a high ISO image ( either ETTR or otherwise), the subsequent noise will be minimised.


In real life i find a slight over exposure results in less noise ...this is in dim poorly lit situations..and shooting certain things.. thingy..
 
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