Two cameras, F16, ISO 400, 1/125th - different results

FlyTVR - what about at other exposure settings and with the light set lower so you're opening up the lens a bit more? Is this inaccuracy just at f/16 @ ISO 400 @ 1/125th or is it the same whatever exposure value you select?
 
flossie said:
using T stop instead is of F stop is part of the answer

a light meter you can calibrate to each camera (e.g. 758D) is another

a spot meter instead of an incident meter is also worth considering, as that will take into account the reflectivity of the subject.

there's lots of ways of approaching the matter...

...but nothing electronic beats taking a picture, looking at the results, and adjusting either the lighting or the camera based on this information!
Click to expand...

Spot metering is useless in a studio setting
 
tdodd said:
I've never tried it myself, but apparently it is not useless. Watch this video from about 6 minutes in....

http://www.adorama.com/alc/article/Metering-Part-4
Click to expand...

Of course you can use any form of metering for any subject - it just measures light. What makes the difference is how you use it, off what tones, and how the readings are interpreted.

But why on earth anyone should want to work in a studio like that, shooting digital, is beyond me. The histogram and blinkies are far more helpful, much easier, and more accurate too (as this thread demonstrates - what the meter says, what you get, and what you want, are not always the same thing). The histogram is the real thing, cannot be wrong, if you know how to read it.

Frankly I have no time at all for anyone who claims a hand meter is the way to get really accurate exposures. I use one because sometimes it's more convenient, but never because it's actually better.

Interesting that his Sekonic is clearly not calibrated to 18% grey! Mine isn't either, I think Sekonic claim 14%. And why is she standing on a box? :D
 
no because different camera have different iso ratings and have different processing engines.


FlyTVR said:
I know I am missing something fundamental.

Lets say (under studio conditions) you set up your lighting / camera for the correct expose e.g. F16 ISO 400 1/125th.

Should you then be able to pick up a different camera / lens with the same settings (F16 ISO 400 1/125th) and get a similar exposure?

Your thoughts please.

Cheers,

Dav
Click to expand...
 
HoppyUK said:
Of course you can use any form of metering for any subject - it just measures light. What makes the difference is how you use it, off what tones, and how the readings are interpreted.

But why on earth anyone should want to work in a studio like that, shooting digital, is beyond me. The histogram and blinkies are far more helpful, much easier, and more accurate too (as this thread demonstrates - what the meter says, what you get, and what you want, are not always the same thing). The histogram is the real thing, cannot be wrong, if you know how to read it.

Frankly I have no time at all for anyone who claims a hand meter is the way to get really accurate exposures. I use one because sometimes it's more convenient, but never because it's actually better.

Interesting that his Sekonic is clearly not calibrated to 18% grey! Mine isn't either, I think Sekonic claim 14%. And why is she standing on a box? :D
Click to expand...

Hoppy
We've had this discussion plenty of times. For me when trying to meter more than one light, the histogram is just not easy enought to read. If you have the meter/camera calibrated then you should be able to adjust lighting much quicker. - As you say using a meter is far more convenient.

A small point of note - none of the masters I know use the histogram - Every one of them use a light meter.
 
Last edited:
EOS_JD said:
Hoppy
We've had this discussion plenty of times. For me when trying to meter more than one light, the histogram is just not easy enought to read. If you have the meter/camera calibrated then you should be able to adjust lighting much quicker. - As you say using a meter is far more convenient.

A small point of note - none of the masters I know use the histogram - Every one of them use a light meter.
Click to expand...

I think we may be talking at cross purposes. Did you watch the video?

I'm talking about one light, referring to the linked Adorama* video, not balancing multiple lights. I use a meter for that, and have said so often enough. In the video, he's using one light, and a fancy reflective reading spot meter to measure and lock various points on the dynamic range - the very thing the histogram does best.

I also use a light meter in the studio, but not for everything. "none of the masters I know use the histogram" None of them use it, ever? Anyone that does that, as you claim, must be a very old master and is missing out on an extremely valuable tool (and I frankly don't believe it either).

It's just the easiest way of getting very precise overall exposure level. It's certainly not the only way, but only a mug would ignore it completely. It's not for setting up and balancing multiple lights though. TBH, the best way of doing that is a) get as close as you can with a meter, and then b) fine tune by checking the LCD image itself and blinkies. You need a decent LCD screen. The actual histogram is very hard to read for that.

Sorry if the point I made was unclear.

*Edit: basically, he's trying to sell an expensive meter ;)
 
Last edited:
HoppyUK said:
I think we may be talking at cross purposes. Did you watch the video?

I'm talking about one light, referring to the linked Adorama* video, not balancing multiple lights. I use a meter for that, and have said so often enough. In the video, he's using one light, and a fancy reflective reading spot meter to measure and lock various points on the dynamic range - the very thing the histogram does best.

I also use a light meter in the studio, but not for everything. "none of the masters I know use the histogram" None of them use it, ever? Anyone that does that, as you claim, must be a very old master and is missing out on an extremely valuable tool (and I frankly don't believe it either).

It's just the easiest way of getting very precise overall exposure level. It's certainly not the only way, but only a mug would ignore it completely. It's not for setting up and balancing multiple lights though. TBH, the best way of doing that is a) get as close as you can with a meter, and then b) fine tune by checking the LCD image itself and blinkies. You need a decent LCD screen. The actual histogram is very hard to read for that.

Sorry if the point I made was unclear.

*Edit: basically, he's trying to sell an expensive meter ;)
Click to expand...

Sorry well yes we are therefore in agreement re single light.

Go on any training course and you'll not see one use the histogram, just so much easier and accurate (if your lights and camera are calibrated) to use a meter.
 
Last edited:
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top