The universal trigger interface (The little box)

mmcp42 said:
cool
if you ever need one beta testing just bellow
Click to expand...

I may need some testing but John has first dibs on that job :)

I am starting the PCB design tonight. The current prototype is using...... POINT TO POINT wiring :gag: It looks brilliant with literally a hundred wires soldered onto the back of point to point board.
 
I didn't know everyone else was into electronics!

I have a spare oscilloscope going so if anyone wants one let me know and I will stick an advert in! There are a few things I need like an angle poised magnifying lamp, bench PSU, hot air SMD rework station etc so anything I get goes into the pot. I think I have decided on my PCB making setup...... http://www.megauk.com/pcb_kits.php (KIT D) So if anyone needs a board making let me know.
 
Don't suppose you'll be able to do solder masks, screen printed component overlays and plated through hole vias? :)
 
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cowasaki said:
I didn't know everyone else was into electronics!

I have a spare oscilloscope going so if anyone wants one let me know and I will stick an advert in! There are a few things I need like an angle poised magnifying lamp, bench PSU, hot air SMD rework station etc so anything I get goes into the pot. I think I have decided on my PCB making setup...... http://www.megauk.com/pcb_kits.php (KIT D) So if anyone needs a board making let me know.
Click to expand...

depending on price, I could do with a 'scope, £what you looking for

btw what software are you using for circuit design/routing?

I've had some success with EAGLE

currently working on a CNC PCB mill :)
 
mmcp42 said:
I've had some success with EAGLE
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I've been playing with that too recently. Seems rather nice, but I still end up doing a fair amount of touch up in Photoshop before printing out for etching.

Good that there's a lot of good libraries out there for it though.

mmcp42 said:
currently working on a CNC PCB mill :)
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That one's a bit beyond me just yet, and definitely beyond my allowable budget right now. Would like to do that eventually though, even if just for cutting out custom PCB shapes if not for the actual "etching" itself.
 
There are a few things I need like an angle poised magnifying lamp, bench PSU, hot air SMD rework station etc
Click to expand...

Might want to add curtains to that list :)
 
Kaouthia said:
Don't suppose you'll be able to do solder masks, screen printed component overlays and plated through hole vias? :)
Click to expand...

I think that kit D basically includes all the bits needed to make 1 or 2 sided boards, tin them and drill the holes. Silk screening would be extra. I am thinking of getting a through hole plater next month.
 
What are you saying about my curtains
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Just thought you might need something heavier to stop prying eyes intent on industrial espionage

If they ever remake Abigails Party your onto a winner :)

Oh ****, sorry, might actually want one of your devices :bonk:
 
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cowasaki said:
I think that kit D basically includes all the bits needed to make 1 or 2 sided boards, tin them and drill the holes. Silk screening would be extra. I am thinking of getting a through hole plater next month.
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Yeah, single and double sided boards should be a doddle, the hard bit's making sure your second side is lined up appropraitely. There's a bunch of different methods people use, so you'll have to just experiment and see what works best for you.

I've just been ironing on toner prints for my component side overlay, but it's a pain as it always ends up with a bunch residue left on it in areas that just won't go away (without risk of also pulling off the toner). Does the job, but wouldn't stand up to saleable scruitiny. :)

Interested in finding out about your through hole dealy if you end up getting it. You have a link to something you're interested in already?
 
Kaouthia said:
Yeah, single and double sided boards should be a doddle, the hard bit's making sure your second side is lined up appropraitely. There's a bunch of different methods people use, so you'll have to just experiment and see what works best for you.

I've just been ironing on toner prints for my component side overlay, but it's a pain as it always ends up with a bunch residue left on it in areas that just won't go away (without risk of also pulling off the toner). Does the job, but wouldn't stand up to saleable scruitiny. :)

Interested in finding out about your through hole dealy if you end up getting it. You have a link to something you're interested in already?
Click to expand...

They show how to do it on their site. print one backward and on a slightly smaller piece of the media. Line them up correctly and then tape them together then slide the copper board between the sheets :)
 
the toner method is surprisingly effective
I've used it a couple of times now
you have to watch that not all laser printers print 100% full size though
but the error is so small it's unlikely to be a problem

I have heard that a couple of strategic drill hole help with lining up double sided

once I get my CNC mill done double sided (and drilling) should be a doddle
(at least that's what the documentation says!!!)

I've been using cheap Staples glossy photo paper
seems to do the trick
 
I was looking at using Fritzing but it is WAY too buggy and missing LOADS of parts....

No 25 way D connectors
No 2.5mm stereo sockets
No 3.5mm mono sockets
No 16KHz watch crystals
No low pF caps
No part for the relay layout I have
etc etc etc

I need to find a decent PCB layout package that is usable and on a Mac if possible.
 
cowasaki said:
I was looking at using Fritzing but it is WAY too buggy and missing LOADS of parts....

No 25 way D connectors
No 2.5mm stereo sockets
No 3.5mm mono sockets
No 16KHz watch crystals
No low pF caps
No part for the relay layout I have
etc etc etc

I need to find a decent PCB layout package that is usable and on a Mac if possible.
Click to expand...

I refer the honorable gentleman to my earlier post where I mention the use of EAGLE

:)
 
Is it easy to use? ......... We will find out :)
 
one of the reasons I like it is you can make your own libraries if you have a component they don't include
takes a bit of getting used to, though

the "free" version limits the board size, but not so much that it isn't useful

if you get stuck, I'll see if I can help...

Mike
 
Haha..... The circuit board is likely to be about 200mm x 120mm
 
I seem to recall 4" by 3" is the limit
I'v used it for boards up to that size

but you can remove the limit in exchange for cash!
 
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cowasaki said:
The circuit board is likely to be about 200mm x 120mm
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:eek: Is that based on the assumption that you'd have to do the etching yourself? I'd send the PCB out and compress everything down, even look at SMDs.
 
from the license info:

Professional
The Professional edition provides full functionality:
board area up to 1600x1600mm (64x64inch)
up to 16 routing layers
up to 999 sheets per schematic

Standard
The Standard edition has the following limitations:
board area limited to 160x100mm (6.3x4inch), which corresponds to a full Eurocard
only six routing layers (Top, Route2, Route3, Route14, Route15 and Bottom)
a schematic can consist of up to 99 separate sheets

Light
The Light edition has the following limitations:
board area limited to 100x80mm (4x3.2inch), which corresponds to half of a Eurocard
only two routing layers (Top and Bottom)
a schematic can consist of only one single sheet
 
or another approach, not used it myself
DesignSpark (touted by RS)

allegedly no limits (well 1m square boards!!!)
 
acs said:
:eek: Is that based on the assumption that you'd have to do the etching yourself? I'd send the PCB out and compress everything down, even look at SMDs.
Click to expand...

Yes, I am sure I could shrink it!

For speed of development I am effectively building a massively over sized Arduino shield. I have not found the 1280 available as a separate device! I did look at the Duemilanove and can get the chips to add straight to the board but the device does not give me enough IO ports for expansion etc. Has anyone seen a "mega" shield connector....
 
mmcp42 said:
the toner method is surprisingly effective
I've used it a couple of times now
you have to watch that not all laser printers print 100% full size though
but the error is so small it's unlikely to be a problem
Click to expand...
Toner transfer method is how I do it, using the cheapest of the cheap, 25 sheets of 6x4 for a quid glossy paper. Works a treat. Residue comes off the copper side no problems, leave it to soak for 10-15 minutes and it practically just floats off.

But doing the component overlay on the other side, some of it's clear, some of it's still coated in a weird residue that doesn't want to come off (that I can't remove with acetone lest I remove the actual print too).

mmcp42 said:
I have heard that a couple of strategic drill hole help with lining up double sided
Click to expand...
That's how I was lining up my component overlay the first couple of times I did it, but with the single sided boards, it's easy enough just to hold it up to a light as you can see through the board to line things up. Then just hold one edge securely while you iron the other. One the ironed edge is fastened, you carry on with the rest.

Just need to find a paper that doesn't leave the residue. Just tried magazine pages (as some have suggested on the web), it sorta worked. Didn't leave a residue on the board, but the print looked dull and faded, and it left a bunch of crap on the iron.

mmcp42 said:
once I get my CNC mill done double sided (and drilling) should be a doddle (at least that's what the documentation says!!!)
Click to expand...
Where did you get your plans for it?
 
cowasaki said:
I was looking at using Fritzing but it is WAY too buggy and missing LOADS of parts....
Click to expand...

As far as I know, Fritzing, like Eagle, uses a modular system for its component libraries, so you can download libraries that you need. Not everybody needs everything, and some people need custom parts.

So, lots of people make their own libraries as they find they need stuff that's missing, then upload 'em to the web.
 
Kaouthia said:
...

Where did you get your plans for it?
Click to expand...

try this forum (hope cross posting is allowed since it's not photograpic!)

rife with plans, advice, ...

I'm building the Solsylva 10 by 9
 
cowasaki said:
Yes, I am sure I could shrink it!

For speed of development I am effectively building a massively over sized Arduino shield. I have not found the 1280 available as a separate device! I did look at the Duemilanove and can get the chips to add straight to the board but the device does not give me enough IO ports for expansion etc. Has anyone seen a "mega" shield connector....
Click to expand...

Just get a 328 and use shift registers and multiplexers to get more ports. 74HC595 shift registers would essentially give you an infinite number of output ports (not PWM, but don't suppose you'd need it), and there are solutions for adding more analogue input pins (check on the Arduino forums).

The Arduino Mega costs more than double what the Uno and 2009 cost (and 328p chips are about 4-6 quid each on their own - just add a crystal and a couple of caps and you're good to go), and it's extra power & pins really isn't needed for the vast majority of projects.
 
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cowasaki said:
Yes, I am sure I could shrink it!

For speed of development I am effectively building a massively over sized Arduino shield. I have not found the 1280 available as a separate device! I did look at the Duemilanove and can get the chips to add straight to the board but the device does not give me enough IO ports for expansion etc. Has anyone seen a "mega" shield connector....
Click to expand...

mega shield connector is only a set of header pins - a doddle for a man of your skill and wit!
 
Kaouthia said:
Just get a 328 and use shift registers and multiplexers to get more ports. The Arduino Mega costs more than double what the Uno and 2009 cost (and 328p chips are about 4-6 quid each on their own - just add a crystal and a couple of caps and you're good to go), and it's the extra power & pins really isn't needed for the vast majority of projects.
Click to expand...

I have some separate 328s already! I am picking up a genuine mega board, LCD and lots of the other parts at a special price from a certain chap from china :) To be honest using the mega gives massive upgrade potential as the entire project is being built to be massively expandable over time. I have been picking up some good suppliers. If I can work out how to build a shield with Eagle I will give it a go.....
 
mmcp42 said:
mega shield connector is only a set of header pins - a doddle for a man of your skill and wit!
Click to expand...

I will have to have a look. I am a bit impatient and want to just load the software up and be working straight away :suspect:

Will give it a try though.......
 
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