The Official Fuji X10/X20/X30/XF1/XQ1 Thread

Mines got a Gariz aftermarket cap which is tied to the camera so not lost it - I just find it slows the on/off process down a bit. I also have a Gariz case which allows trapdoor access when fitted - problem is, I have fat fingers so can't get them through the aperture to get the card or battery out through the hole!
 
Took my carry everywhere X10 with me to the park for sledging in the snow. Looked after the camera in the park and grabbed a few images.

On the way back my daughter and I both slipped over in the car park, I landed on my hip with X10 in between me and the ground in a Samsonite pouch slung across me. It was like landing on a metal rock.

I have smashed the LCD screen and dislodged the OVF, the lens retracts ok but it was a hell of a bash between my hip and the ground so not sure what other damage it may have sustained. Posted it off to Fuji today to see what they think. Guess thats the problem with a carry everywhere camera, its more likely to get abuse. Can't remember the last time I fell over sober!

Anyone any idea whether it will be worth repairing? :(
 
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Probably not - if it's a write off and insured, it may be worth waiting for the X-20. Hope you're OK - the camera's far earier to replace!
 
Rob, the sheep photos I originally posted were taken in the poor light that was a combination of Duncan’s “dark grey sky” and late afternoon. A quick bit of PP turned the JPEGs into something that most will accept, but you spotted the tinge of cyan. Even more quickly then, I ‘warmed’ them up to close to what my eye sees in these snow scenes - not everyone’s cup of tea, which Duncan pointed out at the time.

At Martyn’s suggestion, this led me to experiment with WB to find out the settings that best reproduced my personal ‘reality’ in these conditions (snow scene in heavy overcast) – hence the four cottage shots straight out of the camera. Any PP would have made such a test pointless: aesthetics weren’t the issue.

In these conditions and with my perception, the original no. 2 (custom WB with fresh snow as the reference) comes closest to my ‘reality’. This is not to say that it couldn’t do with a spot of PP to make it more acceptable even to me – I hope I haven’t invested in Lightroom over Christmas for nothing – but that it might be a good starting point for my taste.

I should have posted the next images instead of the cottage shots (the detail in them confuses), taken a little earlier in the lane where I live, meaning I could nip out quickly and check colours. Again, necessarily straight out of the camera:


Auto 1 by wylyeangler, on Flickr


Custom 1 by wylyeangler, on Flickr

Number 1 is auto WB; number 2 is custom and is closer to what I see – the colour of the mud/gravel and salt/snow mix is nearly right, I can see the 'right' green in the trees, and the snow itself doesn’t have the ‘blue whitener’ look so favoured by cleaning products. Actually No. 1 is what I would have ‘expected’ to be right, but observation proves isn’t – more attractive though, I shall concede!

With the generous help of this thread, I am getting clearer in my mind how I should use the X10 with all its ‘bells and whistles’. I want to know how to get its JPEGs out of the camera closest to my ‘reality’, leaving me freedom in PP to adjust images to whatever I want. If for some reason I want to use a different WB, or an SP, or other mode for special effect, I need to know what the camera’s doing. That was the point of this little experiment, and the many others that we all do.

I think that for most of our sort of photos, Dave’s dictum of “if it looks right, it is right” is spot on…but “reality has nowt to do with it”? Try telling that to my sister when I get the colours wrong photographing this sort patchwork quilt, raffled off for charity each year:


P1020942 c by wylyeangler, on Flickr


Pete

Thanks for the elaborate response, Pete. Dave put it quite accurately. I suppose it's just like drinking wine: if it tastes good, it's good wine. As to the WB issue: I just believe that if the WB is correct, PP'ing an image should be less complicated than with the WB off.

I think the first shot (the lane) is lacking a bit of vibrance (too much blue whitener :lol:); the second shot is more to my liking (but tends to lean towards green/yellow).

Personally, I underestimated the whole PP thing. I really need a lot of practice. I've got a decent monitor now, but I've already noticed that the results of my PP efforts are different depending on whether I work on pictures at night or during the day, due to the different light, of course :nuts:

Thanks again, Pete.


P.S. nice quilt, by the way.
 
Perhaps I've failed to notice a release date somewhere, but does anyone know when the X20 is expected?
 
looking at the X20 it will be about £500 for early adopters, £200 more than an X10 for a different sensor (what about early RAW support), a hybrid OVF and maybe faster focussing (not an issue for me on the X10), is it worth the extra money?? If my X10 isn't repairable that's a bit of a dilemma I guess only I can answer for my needs!
 
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Number 1 is auto WB; number 2 is custom and is closer to what I see – the colour of the mud/gravel and salt/snow mix is nearly right, I can see the 'right' green in the trees, and the snow itself doesn’t have the ‘blue whitener’ look so favoured by cleaning products. Actually No. 1 is what I would have ‘expected’ to be right, but observation proves isn’t – more attractive though, I shall concede!

I have had 3 fuji cameras and every one has given results that are too cold when using auto wb in many conditions. Bright sunlight they are not too bad but in the overcast conditions we often get in the UK they usually need the wb adjusting to make them warmer.

It is very noticeable if you shoot with someone else using a different brand. Canon always looks to have a much warmer wb.
 
looking at the X20 it will be about £500 for early adopters, £200 more than an X10 for a different sensor (what about early RAW support), a hybrid OVF and maybe faster focussing (not an issue for me on the X10), is it worth the extra money?? If my X10 isn't repairable that's a bit of a dilemma I guess only I can answer for my needs!

As John pointed out, the X-20 is expected in March, with a launch at Focus in the pipeline I think. IMO, the improvements will be worth the premium, although I'm not planning to be an early adopter - to me, the viewfinder's information is the incentive, I prefer an OVF to an EVF but really miss exposure info and the artificial horizon that the X-20 promises. I'm not a raw shooter so the lack of raw support isn't an issue for me and many people who shoot raw on DSLRs don't bother with it on their X-10 since its JPEGs are so good.
 
I have had 3 fuji cameras and every one has given results that are too cold when using auto wb in many conditions. Bright sunlight they are not too bad but in the overcast conditions we often get in the UK they usually need the wb adjusting to make them warmer.

It is very noticeable if you shoot with someone else using a different brand. Canon always looks to have a much warmer wb.

As a newcomer to 'serious' digital photography (only a 'point and shoot' before the X10), it is gratifying to me that someone with your experience should have come to the same conclusion.

Linday's comment (sorry Lindsay, I did mean to acknowledge) that she has to make a small temperature correction in PP for snowy conditions I find applies to almost all daylight shots taken in auto WB, but most particularly (as you say) in a dull overcast. Strangely, at least for me, auto works very well in most sorts of artificial light given no 'bias' owing to colourful surroundings.

I suspect that none of this matters a terrific lot because of the adjustments that can be made in PP, but based on the principle that fewer changes help preserve quality, perhaps a quick checklist including WB before shooting might be worthwhile.

Pete
 
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...As to the WB issue: I just believe that if the WB is correct, PP'ing an image should be less complicated than with the WB off.

I think the first shot (the lane) is lacking a bit of vibrance (too much blue whitener :lol:); the second shot is more to my liking (but tends to lean towards green/yellow)...

Many thanks for your comments here, Rob; I totally agree - I think the second shot with custom WB is not right, but a better starting point for PP if I had any interest in the photo.

"I'm rather surprised how well the Agfa film has kept: colours and general image quality is still very impressive. 40 years you said? My goodness!"

If you remember, we had WB problems in those days, but short of sticking on a U/V filter in anticipation, there was damn-all you could do about the 'blue rinse' reversal film transparencies that came back from processing. I found "Agfacolor" far better in this regard than what most used - "Kodachrome" in one of its forms. None of my Agfa slides (earliest from 1965 when I felt I could just afford it) has deteriorated, whereas a large number of my cousin's Kodachrome "2x2" transparencies (always suspected that was the rich end of the family!) from that time and which I was asked to digitise recently, had gone completely orange/red, looking at first sight like negatives! Wonderful though, how such images can be recovered with commonplace modern technology.

Pete
 
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Really sorry to ask this off thread question but someone is offering me a cannon 40D. I want to get those nice shallow DOF shots that it appears only the DSLR's can provide. Do any of you DSLR users use or recommend it? I would PM but don't know who to PM!!
 
Really sorry to ask this off thread question but someone is offering me a cannon 40D. I want to get those nice shallow DOF shots that it appears only the DSLR's can provide. Do any of you DSLR users use or recommend it? I would PM but don't know who to PM!!

Souldeep, when you click the name of the poster (to the left of the message itself), you'll see a short menu. Sending a private message is one of the options.

As to your 40D question: I've got no notable experience with DSLRs, only with oldfashioned film SLRs. You could, however, have a look on Canon 40D on photo.net, which is a site run by serious enthusiasts. There's really lots of good info on that site. Check the forums too!

Cheers,
Rob
 
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I’ve had my X10 since August now (a Fuji refurb with new sensor) and although it is a fantastic little camera, I have not used it as much as I anticipated. I’m very happy with the shots I have taken, but I am making the move back to a DSLR. With this (X10) sector of the market being what it is and with the X20 on the horizon, is it worth selling my X10? This isn’t a ‘testing the water’ thread, but more a ‘what would you do’ type question.

I will be wanting a compact P&S as well as my DSLR and the X10 doesn’t quite give me the ‘pocketability’ that I require. Am I likely to lose too much on the X10 to mean it just isn’t worth selling?
 
Am I likely to lose too much on the X10 to mean it just isn’t worth selling?

I think second hand value is currently fetching around £200 - £300 depending on bundled accessories.

I would ask myself - is it going to sit in a corner and never get used. If yes then I would sell it. If it still has a use then it may be worth holding onto it. I have seen cult cameras that produce unique images raise in price over the long term. My Fuji F30 is an example of this and from what I can gather so far, I expect the X10 my have a similar market curve.
 
Souldeep, when you click the name of the poster (to the left of the message itself), you'll see a short menu. Sending a private message is one of the options.

As to your 40D question: I've got no notable experience with DSLRs, only with oldfashioned film SLRs. You could, however, have a look on Canon 40D on photo.net, which is a site run by serious enthusiasts. There's really lots of good info on that site. Check the forums too!

Cheers,
Rob

Thanks Rob - actually I can PM it's just that I wouldn't know who to PM (some members on here my have used or currently have the 40D) and ask the question. I took a look around some reviews but nothing quite like some advice from members on this forum that I have come to trust over time. Individuals like Duncan, YV or Lindsay would also know if that would be a sensible move for me. I am clueless about DSLR's.

Thanks for the reply :)
 
Thanks Rob - actually I can PM it's just that I wouldn't know who to PM (some members on here my have used or currently have the 40D) and ask the question. I took a look around some reviews but nothing quite like some advice from members on this forum that I have come to trust over time. Individuals like Duncan, YV or Lindsay would also know if that would be a sensible move for me. I am clueless about DSLR's.

Thanks for the reply :)

Reading remains difficult... Sorry, mate. Mistook the "who" for a "how" :bang:

I believe the photo.net forums have loads of user experience info regarding the D40; might be well worth looking up as well.
 
Really sorry to ask this off thread question but someone is offering me a cannon 40D. I want to get those nice shallow DOF shots that it appears only the DSLR's can provide. Do any of you DSLR users use or recommend it? I would PM but don't know who to PM!!

My 40D is still a much used part of my DSLR lineup - wonderful camera.
 
Really sorry to ask this off thread question but someone is offering me a cannon 40D. I want to get those nice shallow DOF shots that it appears only the DSLR's can provide. Do any of you DSLR users use or recommend it? I would PM but don't know who to PM!!

I still use my 40D but not as much as my x10

the 40D is a very well made camera but with less pixels than the X10 and very limited Noise free Iso (400) good then tails off. focus is instant.
I have the F2.8 17 55 lens which is top class. If you make prints up to A3 it gives excellent results.
 
:'( Got my X10 back from Fuji yesterday. It all looked good until I started photographing a few landscapes. Funny how the human eye can be so accurate: whenever the built-in level indicated green, it looked to me rather skew.

Today I took a proper level I have, placed the camera completely parallel to it and photographed it when the level indicated green: my eyes were absolutely right (or was that my brain?), the built-in level is off! It used to be spot on! Blast, now it has to go back again... :'(:'(:'(


DSCF1776-resized by Robenroute, on Flickr
 
Thanks Rob - actually I can PM it's just that I wouldn't know who to PM (some members on here my have used or currently have the 40D) and ask the question. I took a look around some reviews but nothing quite like some advice from members on this forum that I have come to trust over time. Individuals like Duncan, YV or Lindsay would also know if that would be a sensible move for me. I am clueless about DSLR's.

Thanks for the reply :)

Evening :)
As Lindays says, the 40D is a great camera.
It's the benchmark by which the current generation of Canon's are measured.
Low light focussing is marginally superior to the 5DII, and I've never heard anyone complaining of banding in the shadows which means you can get away with murder in PP.

The only problem they all seem to suffer from is dirt under the shutter button which can make the shutter button feel a bit unresponsive. In severe cases taking a shot can be rather hit and miss.
There are two well known fixes:
1) replace the button. There are guides on how to do this on the web (not for the faint heated).
2) Wash the dirt out with 99% Isopropyle Alcohol (sp?). Spooky timing as I did this on my neighbours 40D last weekend! Again, some excellent youtube how-to guides on how to do this.
 
Here are a few from this morning. Not an easy job for any camera, street lit and snow. P mode and the only PP was to reduce file sizes (resizing was done in camera but left files >200kB). No artistic merit and hand held at ~1/2s or more. The one with the water butt in was flashed using the onboard. Oh, all taken with the XF-1 rather than the X-10 but I think that's allowed!

DSCF02821.JPG


DSCF02811.jpg


DSCF0288.jpg


DSCF02802.jpg
 
:'( Got my X10 back from Fuji yesterday. It all looked good until I started photographing a few landscapes. Funny how the human eye can be so accurate: whenever the built-in level indicated green, it looked to me rather skew.

Today I took a proper level I have, placed the camera completely parallel to it and photographed it when the level indicated green: my eyes were absolutely right (or was that my brain?), the built-in level is off! It used to be spot on! Blast, now it has to go back again... :'(:'(:'(


DSCF1776-resized by Robenroute, on Flickr

Sorry to hear that Rob - this appeared to be a common problem back when people were first swapping the sensor. Good news is it's easily fixable but just inconvenient to have to send it back!

Personally I don't use the balance line - as you say - trusting the eye seems to be the best way.
 
Evening :)
As Lindays says, the 40D is a great camera.
It's the benchmark by which the current generation of Canon's are measured.
Low light focussing is marginally superior to the 5DII, and I've never heard anyone complaining of banding in the shadows which means you can get away with murder in PP.

The only problem they all seem to suffer from is dirt under the shutter button which can make the shutter button feel a bit unresponsive. In severe cases taking a shot can be rather hit and miss.
There are two well known fixes:
1) replace the button. There are guides on how to do this on the web (not for the faint heated).
2) Wash the dirt out with 99% Isopropyle Alcohol (sp?). Spooky timing as I did this on my neighbours 40D last weekend! Again, some excellent youtube how-to guides on how to do this.

Coincidence for sure!

Thanks to all of you for the feedback. That's good enough to give me the confidence to purchase - now I'll see if I get it with the underwater housing as a few people have shown interest and it's 900 for both without a port of lens - although great value as the underwater housing is selling new for over 2k I'm still looking at another 500 when I get a lens and port. Expensive for an amateur like me and that's at least two holidays with the trusty X10 as a companion.
 
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Coincidence for sure!

Thanks to all of you for the feedback. That's good enough to give me the confidence to purchase - now I'll see if I get it with the underwater housing as a few people have shown interest and it's 900 for both without a port of lens - although great value as the underwater housing is selling new for over 2k I'm still looking at another 500 when I get a lens and port. Expensive for an amateur like me and that's at least two holidays with the trusty X10 as a companion.

Is there a waterproof housing for the X10 ?
I'd have thought there would be something...
 
I'm still experimenting with my X10, but had noticed that shots taken using Astia seemed to have more saturation, contrast and general punch than using Provia. I had been shooting in Provia, but had found some of the shots a bit, well, almost washed out. It was fairly subtle, but I was a bit disappointed with how they came out.

It wasn't a problem because a couple of small tweeks in PS soon sorted it, but my aim when buying the X10 was to go "unplugged" and to spend as little time in pp as possible, which is why I wanted good quality jpegs straight out of the camera. I'll save RAW for my DSLR.

It's almost as if Fuji have got the Provia and Astia settings the wrong way round. I was starting to wonder if my unit had a bug, but a quick internet search reveals that I'm by no means alone in coming to this conclusion, and Steve Huff also found the same when reviewing the X100.

Provia is actually a great starting point for PP and it is much more open in the shadows, but I do prefer the slightly punchier look of Astia although it does seem to reduce details in the shadows. So I'm going to experiment a bit more and use Astia but try and either increase the shadows setting in camera or increase the dynamic range and see what difference it makes. I'll let you know how I get on, but would be interested to know if anyone has noticed anything similar.

I've uploaded a couple of pictures to my gallery which illustrated the point very nicely on the camera screen and on my laptop at home but are not so obvious on my work monitor.

p.s. Sorry if this subject has been covered before, 189 is a lot of pages to search through!
 
Sorry to hear that Rob - this appeared to be a common problem back when people were first swapping the sensor. Good news is it's easily fixable but just inconvenient to have to send it back!

Personally I don't use the balance line - as you say - trusting the eye seems to be the best way.

Well, I had read about these issues, and was very reluctant to send mine in. But then I thought you'd only hear about the ones that experience problems and not so much about when everything is hunky dory. Furthermore, you'd think that Fuji, after having replaced a fair share of sensors and knowing what the problems are, would pay attention to details like this...

Anyway, I've already contacted Fuji, but they haven't replied yet (I only sent them an e-mail yesterday). I hope it can be sorted quickly.

Thanks for the moral support, though ;)
 
I'm still experimenting with my X10, but had noticed that shots taken using Astia seemed to have more saturation, contrast and general punch than using Provia. I had been shooting in Provia, but had found some of the shots a bit, well, almost washed out. It was fairly subtle, but I was a bit disappointed with how they came out.

It wasn't a problem because a couple of small tweeks in PS soon sorted it, but my aim when buying the X10 was to go "unplugged" and to spend as little time in pp as possible, which is why I wanted good quality jpegs straight out of the camera. I'll save RAW for my DSLR.

It's almost as if Fuji have got the Provia and Astia settings the wrong way round. I was starting to wonder if my unit had a bug, but a quick internet search reveals that I'm by no means alone in coming to this conclusion, and Steve Huff also found the same when reviewing the X100.

Provia is actually a great starting point for PP and it is much more open in the shadows, but I do prefer the slightly punchier look of Astia although it does seem to reduce details in the shadows. So I'm going to experiment a bit more and use Astia but try and either increase the shadows setting in camera or increase the dynamic range and see what difference it makes. I'll let you know how I get on, but would be interested to know if anyone has noticed anything similar.

I've uploaded a couple of pictures to my gallery which illustrated the point very nicely on the camera screen and on my laptop at home but are not so obvious on my work monitor.

p.s. Sorry if this subject has been covered before, 189 is a lot of pages to search through!

Welcome to the "club", Uponthehill. If you prefer punchy pictures, you might want to give the Velvia setting a go; it delivers more colour saturation than the Provia. Astia (at least the film version) should have a more subdued saturation and I sometimes use it for portraits/people. You also might want to experiment with the contrast settings for highlights and shadows.

I get by without much PP. But occasionally, a really nice shot comes along and is just begging for a bit of pampering.

Have fun with your X10!
 
Oh, all taken with the XF-1 rather than the X-10 but I think that's allowed!

Duncan will get you banned from this thread, for not using the X10, - he is the leader :lol:

On a serious note I thought you had built a snowperson in your front (your last pic) when I looked initially on my IPhone. But then I looked on my laptop and realised it is a scooter.

Are you a Mod Nod :D
 
What you can't see is the Royal Enfield in the garage! The scooter is my wife's and was bought from an elderly aunt to a) get her off the road and b) put some money in her pocket without it seeming like charity.

While I enjoy the music of what are often seen as Mod bands, I'm not a mod - far more a rocker! Hell, break most modern music down and it's 12 bar blues...
 
Hi guys. So how many of you X10-ers are going to trade up to an X20 when it comes out? There's a good deal on a bundle on Amazon at the moment for the X-10... can't decide what to do - i guess it could even be old stock with the problems I have read about. Almost bought the X10 before the snow arrived but then it was the last one in the shop and they wouldn't let it go. Hmmm
 
Some just like what the quirky X10 sensor can achieve. and will stick with them.
If They sort the raw out for the X20, I might well get one at some stage.
But "as well as" not "instead of".
 
heading to work this morning and had to jump out of van to see how the X10 would cope with a gorgeous sunrise.

here's the result

just added a top/bottom edge and slight exposure adj

http://www.talkphotography.co.uk/gallery/data/500/moine-snow-sky.jpg

Superb shot, Gary! The black trim suits the picture very well. AWB? When you say you had to adjust exposure slightly, what do you mean? Just EV?

If you allow... I would have cropped the lower part of the picture (approx. bottom 40%), stressing the stretched horizon.
 
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Superb shot, Gary! The black trim suits the picture very well. AWB? When you say you had to adjust exposure slightly, what do you mean? Just EV?

thanks a lot, i had to adjust exposure as i hadn't noticed the exposure dial had been on +1 by mistake. the top of the Mountain you can see on horizon is Ben Loyal (just for info}
 
Hi guys. So how many of you X10-ers are going to trade up to an X20 when it comes out? There's a good deal on a bundle on Amazon at the moment for the X-10... can't decide what to do - i guess it could even be old stock with the problems I have read about. Almost bought the X10 before the snow arrived but then it was the last one in the shop and they wouldn't let it go. Hmmm

The X20 is going to look like the other X series shots as they share the same sensor.

Think of the X10 as a unique bespoke Sensor. As I've mentioned a few times I reckon this will end up as a bit of a cult look.
 
The X20 is going to look like the other X series shots as they share the same sensor.

Think of the X10 as a unique bespoke Sensor. As I've mentioned a few times I reckon this will end up as a bit of a cult look.

There are two sides to this, Souldeep. The X-Trans sensor delivers excellent images, as I'm sure the X20 will. It (the X20) will also have (if we may believe what Fuji have been saying lately) much better RAW support. But then again, the X10 does have a unique IQ...

I guess time will tell. We're all very much interested, I'm sure.
 
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