The Official Fuji X10/X20/X30/XF1/XQ1 Thread

Thanks for those, they are actually pretty impressive for such a small camera.

Looking at those it may be able to cope with what I want it to do
 
Spiritflier said:
:agree: You'll be lost without a couple of spares and they're certainly cheap enough!

Here's one from me from a session on Borth beach this evening... I was out to shoot some long exposures with the 5DMKII but put the X10 in the bag as well. While the 5DMKII was busy chewing over a 2 minute exposure, I managed to get a few shots of this beautiful Akita (called Nikita) who came to say hello and made herself comfortable on the slipway. :)

DSCF8498tp.jpg
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:clap: speechless
 
I'm still having trouble deciding whether to shoot in RAW or JPEG.

I like having the flexibility of RAW in terms of exposure and I always get a better result when converting to black and white using Silver efex with the RAW than the JPEG - I use black and white quite a lot. In fact the JPEG's have been causing a horrible texture in blown highlights when I edit them in silver efex.
However, for colour, I just don't seem to get a very good result developing the RAWs in lightroom. The JPEGs just always seem to look better. No doubt this is due to my lack of experience/skill with PP editing.

I'm also struggling with the amount of space required to store the RAW files. I've only had the camera for two months and already the x10 folder on my computer is 8gb and I will definitely be shooting more in the future. I do have an external hard drive which I back everything up but it is nice to have the files here where I want them.

As you can see I'm struggling to find a compromise. I don't want to give up on image quality, but JPEG gives me a better result in colours while RAW gives me the exposure and the black and white images I want. JPEGS are smaller and slightly easier to manage. I wish there was an x10 'profile' in lightroom where I could just convert the RAWs exactly how they would be in the camera with a click. Then I could shoot in RAW, create the colour JPEGS and the black and white ones that I want in LR and not on the camera and then just keep the JPEGs on my computer (backing up the RAWs on my external HD). I know you can create a JPEG in-camera from the RAWs but that is quite time consuming, especially as I would have to view the pictures on my computer first.

Oh if only life was simple, eh? :bonk:
 
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Do you know when you want a black and white shot before you take it?

If so you can leave in JPEG and just switch to RAW when you know you are going to convert to black and white. (either by using Raw of fn button or setting C1 or C2 to RAW)
 
ernesto said:
Do you know when you want a black and white shot before you take it?

If so you can leave in JPEG and just switch to RAW when you know you are going to convert to black and white. (either by using Raw of fn button or setting C1 or C2 to RAW)
Click to expand...

I normally decide those kind of things when I get the photographs onto the computer. I'm taking a lot of spur-of-the-moment shots where I don't have time to ponder whether it would be better black and white or not so it works out better for me making the decisions at home.

That said, there are often times where I just know that it will be better black and white. Like the picture I posted here: http://www.talkphotography.co.uk/forums/showpost.php?p=4630382&postcount=1501 I knew that was going to be black and white from the start.

It is a good suggestion though and I might start implementing it.
 
AESamuel said:
I wish there was an x10 'profile' in lightroom where I could just convert the RAWs exactly how they would be in the camera with a click. Then I could shoot in RAW, create the colour JPEGS and the black and white ones that I want in LR and not on the camera and then just keep the JPEGs on my computer (backing up the RAWs on my external HD).
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Which version of LR are you using? I understood LR4 did include such a profile. I read it was downloadable from the ADOBE site. I haven’t used it myself yet but am hoping to experiment with it when I get some spare time (which has been in short supply the past month). If I'm wrong in this matter then apologies.
 
souldeep said:
Which version of LR are you using? I understood LR4 did include such a profile. I read it was downloadable from the ADOBE site. I haven’t used it myself yet but am hoping to experiment with it when I get some spare time (which has been in short supply the past month). If I'm wrong in this matter then apologies.
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I'm using lightroom 4 but the only profiles I can see on the adobe site are for lens correction. They don't have one of those for the X10 anyway.
 
Hmm... I can't find that link now.

Have you considered creating your own colour profile for the X10 that you can then use on RAW import of all images?
 
souldeep said:
Hmm... I can't find that link now.

Have you considered creating your own colour profile for the X10 that you can then use on RAW import of all images?
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I thought you would need that ruddy expensive colour checker chart thing to do that?

Besides, surely the camera does more than just apply colours to the JPEG?
 
This is the company my X10 was keeping last weekend...
Taken during a much needed break by we three official festival photographers.
i-fC3sSHT-M.jpg

Three 5DIIs, a 50D, 60D and 7D.
The X10 should be there too, but we needed one of the cameras to take the shot!

On Sunday I made a significant discovery.
EXR-DR 1600%

Concert lighting is not as bright as it looks, typically the performers are ISO 1600 f5.6 1/125s.
The audience and concert hall are MUCH darker.
The contrast is high enough that the 5DII cannot expose for the performers and still lift the audience out the shadows in PP.
I have occasionally tried the X10 EXR-DR mode, but until Sunday I've never been impressed.
My testing indicated that the detail that can be pulled from the RAW was comparable to EXR-DR and you get the advantages of RAW.

However - I stumbled on what was causing the problem.
It seems for EXR-DR to work properly, Fuji have limited the longest shutter speed.
I'd set EXR-DR to ISO Auto 400 to keep the noise under control as I potentially want to use these images quite large.
It seem this was crippling EXR-DR under concert lighting conditions.
As soon as I set EXR-DR to ISO Auto 3200 - WOW !!!!!!!
I was getting ample tones in the audience as well as perfectly exposed performers.

By the end of Sunday the X10 had produced so many good shots in really contrastly lighting that for the big festival finale we decided I should work the balcony behind the stage and try to get shots showing the audience revelling in the music with the performers in the foreground.
We've tried that shot with the DSLRs and it has never really worked as the contrast is way too high.
It's a testament to the X10 that we thought that shot was worth another go using EXR-DR.

Did it work?
In short - yes and no.
The X10 did the job, but the images are not usable because of poor composition from foreground clutter and badly placed band members.
However, here's a shot from front of stage illustrating the EXR-DR magic at work...
i-Px4t9vF-X3.jpg


I took some comparisons to show the difference.
But haven't got the time right now to post them up.
Would anyone be interested in seeing the comparisons?
Weekend at the earliest :(
 
I personally would as it helps me understand the differences you discuss visually. And thanks for the great post - its a real delight to get such technical tips for the X10 :)
 
AESamuel said:
I thought you would need that ruddy expensive colour checker chart thing to do that?

Besides, surely the camera does more than just apply colours to the JPEG?
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Sorry - I'm no LR expert. Just out learning it myself. Just thought the bespoke colour profiles might make your RAW import problem easier to cope with. I haven’t actually tried setting up my own colour profile for the X10 as of yet. Perhaps someone else that uses LR4 may be able to share their experience with us :)
 
Does the X10 allow me to set auto ISO at 800 with a minimum shutter speed?

In aperture priority if that makes a difference?
 
I thought I should include some X10 shots for this thread, although with a little trepidation. There are often questions about isolating subject from the background. I don't think I was particularly expecting this, but it seems to have worked quite well (ISO 200, wide open at full zoom):

DSCF0316.jpg


I liked the way it handled all the surfaces in this shot in Edinburgh Botanic Garden (ISO 100, f/3.2, 1/280). I suspect that's an Andy Goldsworthy environmental art work, but I couldn't find a notice anywhere. Hope he doesn't mind! Maybe I should have waited and avoided that diagonal shadow, but again I liked it:

DSCF0684.jpg


I was just amazed that this next one, of Harlech Castle, came out at all as basically it was dark, apart from the Castle floodlighting (ISO 1000, f/2.5, 1/28, dialed back on the ev and a bit of shadow recovery in Aperture):

DSCF0890.jpg


I was trying to include a rain/hail-soaked image from Snowdon for Duncan, but I seem to have hit my upload limit for today. Hope you like them, anyway,
 
BarryG said:
Does the X10 allow me to set auto ISO at 800 with a minimum shutter speed?

In aperture priority if that makes a difference?
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Not that I have seen. A minimum shutter speed would potentially override aperture setting and force a lower aperture than you selected which takes away the priority of Aperture doesn't it?

Isn't shutter priority there for when you want that to be the controlled setting?
 
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Well, sort of.

I want to put into A mode with an ISO of 800 but it keeps going to under 1/30 ... I want to stop it doing that!
 
I suppose that manual is the answer, but I'm not confident in manual mode.
 
BarryG said:
Well, sort of.

I want to put into A mode with an ISO of 800 but it keeps going to under 1/30 ... I want to stop it doing that!
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You will need more light then :-)

If you are already at F2 and capping ISO a 800 and the shutter speed for correct exposure is 1/30 then setting a minimum of 1/100 would just cause an under exposure unless I am missing what you are getting at?
 
Example.

Picture taken earlier on auto ISO800 at F8.

Camera chose 1/30 and ISO250.

Ideally I would have liked ISOsomething higher and 1/something higher

I guess this one of the draw backs of using a partial auto setting like A. OK, I'll drop it there as it's not X10 specific.
 
BarryG said:
Example.

Picture taken earlier on auto ISO800 at F8.

Camera chose 1/30 and ISO250.

Ideally I would have liked ISOsomething higher and 1/something higher

I guess this one of the draw backs of using a partial auto setting like A. OK, I'll drop it there as it's not X10 specific.
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Don't use Auto ISO if you need a specific shutter speed. If you had set the ISO at 800 you would get a couple of extra stops on the shutter. Why did you need f8? You already have a lot of DOF on a small sensor.
 
I've come from an SLR and fast lens set up, so still finding my feet at this stage. The tests I was doing earlier were of the street photography nature, so moving targets and all that.

I'll have a play at f4 and pre focussing, see if the helps.
 
BarryG said:
I've come from an SLR and fast lens set up, so still finding my feet at this stage. The tests I was doing earlier were of the street photography nature, so moving targets and all that.

I'll have a play at f4 and pre focussing, see if the helps.
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The laws of physics and the principles of exposure are the same, whatever camera you're using. If getting a high enough shutter speed is your main concern then you could use Tv mode.

If you select Auto ISO then the camera (any camera) will usually try to get away with the lowest ISO, more or less irrespective of the resulting shutter speed - because it doesn't know what shutter speed you want. The other thing with Auto ISO is that it can fluctuate wildly in the same scene depending on where you have focused (matrix metering is wide but is biased towards the centre) so if something very dark has lain under your focus point that will force a higher ISO, and vice versa if you meter off something light (where it will set a lower ISO and slower shutter speed). You'll need to judge when and where Auto ISO is appropriate/convenient.
 
BarryG said:
Example.

Picture taken earlier on auto ISO800 at F8.

Camera chose 1/30 and ISO250.

Ideally I would have liked ISOsomething higher and 1/something higher

I guess this one of the draw backs of using a partial auto setting like A. OK, I'll drop it there as it's not X10 specific.
Click to expand...

In my mind this is how aperture priority works: You set your aperture. The camera then varies the shutter speed and the ISO (if you are using auto ISO) to make a 'correct' exposure. But, because you want to keep your shutter speed at least equal to your focal length to help with camera shake (eg. using 50mm, try not to go below 1/50th of a second) it will take that into account. You also want to get as low ISO as possible to get a better image. So in your case - I don't know what focal length you were using but lets say for this example that it was 28mm - the camera has decided that it doesn't want to go slower than 1/30th of a second because of the 28mm focal length, but doesn't want to take it any faster because it doesn't want to increase the ISO and seeing as it is staying to the speed/focal length rule then there is no need to.
So basically it first sees what shutter speed the lowest ISO needs and if it is faster than the focal length then fine. If not, it will increase the ISO until it reaches this point or you reach your highest ISO.

Bear in mind, I have absolutely no idea if this is true, but if I was a camera, that is how I would work out aperture priority mode. If anyone would confirm my theory then that would be great.
 
AESamuel said:
using 50mm, try not to go below 1/50th of a second
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While this rule is generally correct with non stabilised lenses / cameras, using a slightly slower shutter speed than that should be ok with a stabilised lens,( which is what the X10 has) so you get a little more headroom with the settings
Allan
 
I was shooting at 35mm, so that makes sense. OK, I think I'll forget auto ISO and just dial it in manually, seems like the extra variable is causing the problem.
 
or just don't use F8. If you are street shooting you can use F2 as the sensor is small and the subjects are not that close.

For street shooting I tend to just use P mode and tend to get shutter speeds around 1/400 and ISO 100 even on overcast days as the camera will makes use of it's F2 lens with no risk of too low a DoF.
 
Cheers for the advice, will try out f2 and see how I get on :)
 
OK, here are a couple from today. Really happy with the IQ from this camera :)

4.jpg


4.jpg
 
BarryG said:
Does the X10 allow me to set auto ISO at 800 with a minimum shutter speed?

In aperture priority if that makes a difference?
Click to expand...

I know the X100 allows this. On there it's in the iso menu within the shooting menu. The option is for autoiso and from there you can set a maximum iso and a minimum shutter speed. From my limited time using the camera it only ups the ISO if it's failing at your current setting.

I've got a shakey hand and can't really hold down past 1/60. The GX1 was a killer for that.
 
Also have a look at p101 of the manual - Dual IS Mode
Try out the +Motion option.
I believe it ups the shutter speed if the X10 detects movement in the subject.
Could be handy as the X10 shutter speed is typically slow enough to get movement in people dancing at an indoor party, etc.
Advantage of this over setting a minimum shutter speed is that it should be sensitive to focal length.

Must admit I've never remembered to turn this option on, but I've certainly had motion blur in my subjects which it is very probably this would have fixed!
 
Thanks Duncan, that was a setting I wasn't aware of and will try that out.
 
I discovered something today: Even in manual mode, you can only use a maximum of 30" shutter at ISO100, 15" at ISO200, 8" at ISO250-400, 4" at 500-800, 2" at ISO 1000-1600 and 1" at ISO 2000-3200.
So if you want to take 30 second exposures you are limited to ISO 100. Not necessarily a bad thing as you want long exposures to be as clear as you can make them but its something to note anyway.
 
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AESamuel said:
I discovered something today: Even in manual mode, you can only use a maximum of 30" shutter at ISO100, 15" at ISO200, 8" at ISO250-400, 4" at 500-800, 2" at ISO 1000-1600 and 1" at ISO 2000-3200.
So if you want to take 30 second exposures you are limited to ISO 100. Not necessarily a bad thing as you want long exposures to be as clear as you can make them but its something to note anyway.
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LOL - I posted this (not in quite a s much detail) way back in Dec - see the Llanthony Priory lightpainting shots.
30s is a major challenge for lightpainting!
 
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