The Fabulous Fuji X owners thread

Raymond Lin said:
I know I want a new Fuji camera...currently have a XT1 and XPro1. Not wanting to go for XPro2...frankly whilst I prefer the offset rangefinder look and feel in the hand. I don't like the offset OVF, it throws me off.

Anyway, the reason is that without wanting to spend too much, the XT3 and XH1 are are the 2 which have fallen to the right price bracket for the upgrade. I know about the tech in them, I know the XH1 is larger, etc..what i want to ask is, which you do you pick and would you pick?
Click to expand...

I was in your position earlier this year. I chose the X-T3. I didn't like the idea of going back to PASM and I wasn't too fussed about IBIS.

I don't regret it at all. It's an amazing upgrade from the X-T1 without being a whole different camera. It is going to be more than enough camera for me for years to come.
 
Raymond Lin said:
I know I want a new Fuji camera...currently have a XT1 and XPro1. Not wanting to go for XPro2...frankly whilst I prefer the offset rangefinder look and feel in the hand. I don't like the offset OVF, it throws me off.

Anyway, the reason is that without wanting to spend too much, the XT3 and XH1 are are the 2 which have fallen to the right price bracket for the upgrade. I know about the tech in them, I know the XH1 is larger, etc..what i want to ask is, which you do you pick and would you pick?
Click to expand...
How important is IBIS and the "Fuji experience" to you. They'll take pretty much identical images, so it comes down to what sort of camera you want. Do you want all the dials and more traditional feel of the X-T3? I have an X-T4 and absolutely love it, it's a breath of fresh air coming from a Canon EOS 80D
 
Guys,

I'm getting bizarre metering from my X100s. It's a sunny day today and if there's brightness in the scene the multi spot metering is all over the place for example at f5.6 and 1/1,700 it's at ISO 800. It's choosing higher ISO's even though the shutter speed is high. Is this normal?

Average is better, ISO 400 but still with a fast shutter speed. Oh, it's not better. ISO 800 at 1/420. Bizarre.

It seems ok at f2 as it seems to consistently got to ISO 200 but stopping the lens down gives strange shutter speed and ISO combinations leading to higher ISO's than necessary with faster shutter speeds than are necessary.
 
Last edited:
woof woof said:
Guys,

I'm getting bizarre metering from my X100s. It's a sunny day today and if there's brightness in the scene the multi spot metering is all over the place for example at f5.6 and 1/1,700 it's at ISO 800. It's choosing higher ISO's even though the shutter speed is high. Is this normal?

Average is better, ISO 400 but still with a fast shutter speed. Oh, it's not better. ISO 800 at 1/420. Bizarre.

It seems ok at f2 as it seems to consistently got to ISO 200 but stopping the lens down gives strange shutter speed and ISO combinations leading to higher ISO's than necessary with faster shutter speeds than are necessary.
Click to expand...

What is your DR (Dynamic Range) set to?
 
woof woof said:
Guys,

I'm getting bizarre metering from my X100s. It's a sunny day today and if there's brightness in the scene the multi spot metering is all over the place for example at f5.6 and 1/1,700 it's at ISO 800. It's choosing higher ISO's even though the shutter speed is high. Is this normal?

Average is better, ISO 400 but still with a fast shutter speed. Oh, it's not better. ISO 800 at 1/420. Bizarre.
Click to expand...

Might be to do with dynamic range settings? I think dynamic range priority imposes a minimum ISO, and I'm fairly sure anything other than DR100 does too. Other than that, have you set the auto ISO settings to require a high minimum shutter speed?
 
Mr Perceptive said:
What is your DR (Dynamic Range) set to?
Click to expand...
jimmyjamjojo said:
Might be to do with dynamic range settings? I think dynamic range priority imposes a minimum ISO, and I'm fairly sure anything other than DR100 does too. Other than that, have you set the auto ISO settings to require a high minimum shutter speed?
Click to expand...

DR is set to Auto. Other choices are 100, 200 and 400%.

ISO is on Auto with a default of 200, a max of 6,400 and min shutter speed 1/60.

Hmmm. Setting the DR to 100% fixes the issue.

We're going out soon so I haven't got time to try different setting and look at the results on the PC, I'll have to do that later. In the meantime I take it Auto Dr is a poor choice? If so what's a better choice?
 
Last edited:
Worth noting that there are two settings that can affect this - Dynamic range, which is the DR100, DR200, DR400 etc, but there is also "Dynamic range priority" which is something entirely different and I've never really understood it despite reading the manual on it several times.

Looks like the X100s doesn't have that setting so not the case here...
 
What are the best cheap-ish autofocus macro lens options?
I can't justify the cost of either the 80 or 60mm fuji lenses but might be interested in something cheaper for occasional use - thanks for any suggestions!
I'd be happy with anything used so if you have something that doesn't get much use then please let me know and put up a thread in classifieds..
 
Last edited:
stevewestern said:
What are the best cheap-ish autofocus macro lens options?
I can't justify the cost of either the 80 or 60mm fuji lenses but might be interested in something cheaper for occasional use - thanks for any suggestions!
I'd be happy with anything used so if you have something that doesn't get much use then please let me know and put up a thread in classifieds..
Click to expand...

If you are not worried about the flat field of a macro lens, ie can accept things not looking square towards the edges, then a set of extension tubes with the electrical contacts might suffice
 
Last edited:
Mr Perceptive said:
If you are not worried about the flat field of a macro lens, ie can accept things not looking square towards the eges, then a set of extension tubes with the electrical contacts might suffice
Click to expand...

This is definitely the cheapest way into macro and gives you the best bang for buck. a half decent set of tubes can be had for £20-30 on amazon.
 
Mr Perceptive said:
If you are not worried about the flat field of a macro lens, ie can accept things not looking square towards the edges, then a set of extension tubes with the electrical contacts might suffice
Click to expand...

jimmyjamjojo said:
This is definitely the cheapest way into macro and gives you the best bang for buck. a half decent set of tubes can be had for £20-30 on amazon.
Click to expand...
Thank you both, but I'd rather go for something a bit better..
I've just been looking at the Meike 85mm at about £260 which I couldn't stretch to, especially if there was anything used or there.
 
stevewestern said:
Thank you both, but I'd rather go for something a bit better..
I've just been looking at the Meike 85mm at about £260 which I couldn't stretch to, especially if there was anything used or there.
Click to expand...

My 2p, Tubes with Fuji Glass will probably result in better IQ than a third party lens (thats not Zeiss, Sigma, etc)

And the Meike doesn't have AF which was one of your requirements!!
 
Yep, you'll struggle to do any better than tubes without spending £500+. I don't understand what you mean by better - they introduce no extra glass so don't affect image quality, plus autofocus and aperture control is preserved. They literally just make your current lenses focus closer... The only advantage a macro lens has is sharpness, but you pay for it. Obviously it's up to you but paying macro prices for "occasional use" seems crazy when you can get 90% of the result for 5% of the price.

I wouldn't cheap out on a manual focus macro lens either. It will be fine for static studio stuff but outside even the slightest breeze will make it nearly unusable. Not to mention that you won't be able to do focus stacking, which is needed more often than you think.
 
jimmyjamjojo said:
Yep, you'll struggle to do any better than tubes without spending £500+. I don't understand what you mean by better - they introduce no extra glass so don't affect image quality, plus autofocus and aperture control is preserved. They literally just make your current lenses focus closer... The only advantage a macro lens has is sharpness, but you pay for it. Obviously it's up to you but paying macro prices for "occasional use" seems crazy when you can get 90% of the result for 5% of the price.

I wouldn't cheap out on a manual focus macro lens either. It will be fine for static studio stuff but outside even the slightest breeze will make it nearly unusable. Not to mention that you won't be able to do focus stacking, which is needed more often than you think.
Click to expand...
I dont follow your logic. At the kind of close up distances anything effected by breeze would be an issue whether autofocus is used or not. Manual lenses can easily be used for focus stacking by manually focusing in increments easily assisted with focus peaking. It does mean you having to do something more than setting 3 options in a menu.
 
jimmyjamjojo said:
Yep, you'll struggle to do any better than tubes without spending £500+. I don't understand what you mean by better - they introduce no extra glass so don't affect image quality, plus autofocus and aperture control is preserved. They literally just make your current lenses focus closer... The only advantage a macro lens has is sharpness, but you pay for it. Obviously it's up to you but paying macro prices for "occasional use" seems crazy when you can get 90% of the result for 5% of the price.

I wouldn't cheap out on a manual focus macro lens either. It will be fine for static studio stuff but outside even the slightest breeze will make it nearly unusable. Not to mention that you won't be able to do focus stacking, which is needed more often than you think.
Click to expand...
@stevewestern

90mm lens with both extn tubes on at same time

nONEP25h.jpg
 
AgentOrange76 said:
I dont follow your logic. At the kind of close up distances anything effected by breeze would be an issue whether autofocus is used or not. Manual lenses can easily be used for focus stacking by manually focusing in increments easily assisted with focus peaking. It does mean you having to do something more than setting 3 options in a menu.
Click to expand...

AF-C works, but on moving targets even AF-S will be quicker and generally leads to more keepers, especially with focus-priority set. Manual can be done, but it's much more frustrating/challenging. Same for focus stacking - In a studio with a solid tripod sure, it's easy enough, but in the real world with leaves moving, trying to manually focus stack a bug on a leaf between gusts before the bug moves is going to be VERY tough, whereas auto can do it in a burst (albeit a slow burst) that will have a much higher success rate.

So yeah, it can be done, but my point was why would you? You pay a lot more, get similar optical quality, but a much slower/frustrating experience.
 
Ah. I hit another issue when shooting in bright light. At f2 the shutter won't exceed 1/1,000 so the picture is over exposed. Stop down to f2.8 and you get a faster shutter speed than you did at f2 and a well exposed picture.

Googling tells me this is a limitation of the shutter at f2.

Can later cameras than my s shoot faster than 1/1,000 at f2?

Other than that I found that the evf was dark in bright light so I think from now on I'll be using the OVF in good light and the EVF in dim or indoors.
 
woof woof said:
Ah. I hit another issue when shooting in bright light. At f2 the shutter won't exceed 1/1,000 so the picture is over exposed. Stop down to f2.8 and you get a faster shutter speed than you did at f2 and a well exposed picture.

Googling tells me this is a limitation of the shutter at f2.

Can later cameras than my s shoot faster than 1/1,000 at f2?

Other than that I found that the evf was dark in bright light so I think from now on I'll be using the OVF in good light and the EVF in dim or indoors.
Click to expand...
What about engaging the built in ND filter.
 
trevorbray said:
What about engaging the built in ND filter.
Click to expand...

I did think of that but took so many shots trying different things I can't remember which were taken with the ND and which weren't :D If it doesn't say in the exif I'll try again another day but switching to f2.8 is no deal breaker really as I'm not a f1.x junkie.
 
Fuji Dave said:
On all my Fuji X series I have the ND filter on auto so if needs be it will go to 1/32,000.
Click to expand...

ND filter on auto? I don't think mine does that but I'll double check.

It only has On and Off options. At the mo I have it on the FN button so I'll see how I go with that.

Thanks all.
 
Last edited:
woof woof said:
Ah. I hit another issue when shooting in bright light. At f2 the shutter won't exceed 1/1,000 so the picture is over exposed. Stop down to f2.8 and you get a faster shutter speed than you did at f2 and a well exposed picture.

Googling tells me this is a limitation of the shutter at f2.

Can later cameras than my s shoot faster than 1/1,000 at f2?

Other than that I found that the evf was dark in bright light so I think from now on I'll be using the OVF in good light and the EVF in dim or indoors.
Click to expand...

If I recall correctly this is due to the leaf shutter. I'm not sure about later models but I doubt they'd change something like that. Switching to electronic shutter, using an nd filter, or stopping down the aperture are all options to get around it.
 
Paulie-W said:
I would think 2 SD slots, therefore keeping the difference between the H and T.
Hopefully the fluppy flappy screen will go, but I doubt it ;)

Also I reckon somewhere around £1600.

I am keeping an eye on it :)
Click to expand...

Oh yeah :D

2 SD slots- check
Tilt screen- check
Price... well only a tad out ')

Not a bad guess lol
 
So, what X100 model improves on the s without spending v money? :D

Based on one trip out :D the main things that could be improved on the seem to be...

A better evf, useable on sunny days (I found it too dark.)
Lack of an electronic shutter.
Higher ISO raws.
Face/eye detect.

Maybe the v is the most significant upgrade or is another model a decent step up?

I don't want to sell the s after such a short time with it and the point was to try one without spending too much money but in the future I might upgrade.
 
woof woof said:
So, what X100 model improves on the s without spending v money? :D

Based on one trip out :D the main things that could be improved on the seem to be...

A better evf, useable on sunny days (I found it too dark.)
Lack of an electronic shutter.
Higher ISO raws.
Face/eye detect.

Maybe the v is the most significant upgrade or is another model a decent step up?

I don't want to sell the s after such a short time with it and the point was to try one without spending too much money but in the future I might upgrade.
Click to expand...

The X100T has an electronic shutter and face/eye detect, doesn't look like any real gain in IQ/iso performance though.

The X100F also has those features, as well as better IQ.

Can't find any info on the EVF brightness across the different models, but it's worth asking - are you aware that EVF brightness and LCD brightness are adjusted independently? I have it in my Q menu, so if I want to adjust EVF brightness I have to hold it up to my eye, otherwise it just adjusts the LCD.
 
woof woof said:
So, what X100 model improves on the s without spending v money? :D

Based on one trip out :D the main things that could be improved on the seem to be...

A better evf, useable on sunny days (I found it too dark.)
Lack of an electronic shutter.
Higher ISO raws.
Face/eye detect.

Maybe the v is the most significant upgrade or is another model a decent step up?

I don't want to sell the s after such a short time with it and the point was to try one without spending too much money but in the future I might upgrade.
Click to expand...

Have you adjusted EVF brightness, its in one of the setup menus

T,F,V will give you electronic shutter

Do you really need higher ISO RAWS, they are not very pretty??

Face detect from T onwards, but really on useable in F onwards

Personally I like the F, the handling is impoved with the joystick for the AF, I find the ISO performance good to 6400 and useable (sometimes) at 12800

Just stick with the S, use it, let it get under your skin, and work around your current list of pitfalls.
 
Mr Perceptive said:
Do you really need higher ISO RAWS, they are not very pretty??
Click to expand...

The s goes to ISO 6,400 so for quite low light and a shutter speed suitable for people such as 1/125+ the camera could run out of steam. My other cameras mostly go to 25,600 so just looking at what's needed to keep up with the competition.
 
Hi all, I've got a quick question. I have programmed some Fuji recipes that I found on the net (https://fujixweekly.com/recipes/) and was wondering if there was a quicker way to cycle through them? Right now on the XT20, I have to press the Q button, cycle through to the custom profile (which always forgets where I am so I have to restart at C1 every time) and press okay. I was wondering if there was a way I could cycle through the custom profiles with the screen on so I can see how a scene will look as I toggle through them?

Thanks
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top