The Fabulous Fuji X owners thread

On the off-chance, is anyone processing Fuji raw files in LR on a Surface Pro 4 or Surface Book?

I'm going to move away from the Apple ecosystem (currently a 2015 MBP owner) but ideally want a portable option that I can plug in to my monitor at home. However, from experience even 16MP Fuji files are quite a bit slower to run through LR than D750 files etc, so I wondered how a Surface Pro 4 would get on. I was thinking the 8GB RAM version as a minimum as I imagine 4GB will struggle.
 
I still use LR 5.7 and it's just fine, don't know why people moan that it's bad for Fuji files. Just takes a little while to adjust to their character after using Nikon RAWs for so long. I tried the trial for LR CC and found no difference bar a couple of extra options, like dehaze [which is cool, but not worth upgrading for alone] - if you have a paid version of LR there is no reason to commit to monthly payments for a slight improvement.
 
Surface pro aside (it's just a PC after all) for something like Lightroom the more RAM the better, especially at the lower end like 4GB
 
Thanks all.

@ukaskew, I have a Surface Pro 4 (Core I5 8gb ram and 256gb SSD HDD), and absolutely love it. I also have a MBP (13" later 2013 version), and whilst I still love the mac, I usually reach for the SP4, and it goes with me everywhere in my Lowepro Event Messenger 250 shoulder pad (like an ipad).

Obviously I haven't tired it on a Fuji (as I don't have it yet :D), but have extensively on my Panasonic GX8 raws (20mp), my OMD EM1 (16mp) and my Nikon D500 (21mp), and it runs the raw files just fine. I have a 200gb Micro SDXC card installed and that's where all the photos go, and I still have well over half (150gb) of the SSD left and that's will all my programs loaded (LR, PS CC, Bridge, Office, Capture NXD, Focal View NX-I, Olympus Viewer 3 etc).

It really is a laptop replacement and I'm delighted with it. I got a bit fed up taking an ipad around with me and using the "app" versions of the software.

Even processor intensive programs like Denoise etc, run pretty well (although obviously not as fast as my I7 Quad Core desktop), but respectable none the less.
 
All, I was going to purchase the 10-24, and went onto the Amazon website, already knowing that Fuji were running an £80 cashback promotion, but I noticed that it said there was a double cashback (so I assume £160) for this lens if purchased between 25th November 2016 and 1st December 2016.

Anyone heard of this and knows the mechanism of how this works please ?
 
rookies said:
Reading up on these tracking settings and option. What best setting for ruining kids abs dogs? And motorsport
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Same settings as you got good results on other systems should get you good results on any camera.
 
Cagey75 said:
I still use LR 5.7 and it's just fine, don't know why people moan that it's bad for Fuji files. Just takes a little while to adjust to their character after using Nikon RAWs for so long. I tried the trial for LR CC and found no difference bar a couple of extra options, like dehaze [which is cool, but not worth upgrading for alone] - if you have a paid version of LR there is no reason to commit to monthly payments for a slight improvement.
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We moan because there is a clear and easily demonstrable difference. LR6 has definitely narrowed the gap though (with the T2 at least).

In other news, has anyone else ordered a third party L bracket for their T2 yet?
 
dave.hallett said:
Technically speaking, you're completely right. You can do better than this at ISO 3200. The original is quite underexposed. But that's the way it is, shooting on the street after dark. I love the lighting you get, but i have no lens faster than 1.4, and I need 1/60 to stand any chance of getting motion even somewhat frozen (better if people are standing still, to be honest). So unless I'm in an area with significantly more light, I just set the aperture, set speed to 1/60 and deal with the exposure issues later :). Now whether it's worth losing a stop to get better lens performance by shooting at f/2, as here, is an interesting question and the only real point of flexibility other than going and finding more light. Next time I'll probably try wide open and see what I think. It's hard enough focusing in the dark with f/2 mind you :)

PS I haven't noticed a big difference between 1600 and 3200 but I've only played around a bit.
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Ahh, that'd explain it (y)

Cagey75 said:
If it doesn't look like there's a snow blizzard, and you can make out the subjects clearly, it makes no real odds so long as the overall image is pleasing to the eye. I think we get hung up on sharpness and clarity and smooth images at times. I know i can be guilty of it too. The only people who pixel peep our images, are other photographers let's be honest :D
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I agree, noise doesn't necessarily spoil an image and in fact I've been known of adding grain (which has proved very contentious ;)). I was just saying that I thought it handled 3200 better than that, but Dave's explained the reason ;) And my observations are purely based on the images posted on here, very rarely do I pixel peep other people's images unless there's something specific I want to look at (y)

dave.hallett said:
Just to back up Toby's point (@snerkler) about how ISO 3200 doesn't have to be noisy, here's one from the same evening. I don't think it's a very strong picture, but the exposure is better, cos there's a bit more light, and you can only really make out any noise at 100%. I would be happy to print this at around 30x20, at least at first glance. The Fuji sensor is an impressive thing, even without the X-T2's extra resolution.


Eagle and Child by David Hallett, on Flickr
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Yep much cleaner (y)
 
Alan Clogwyn said:
In other news, has anyone else ordered a third party L bracket for their T2 yet?
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@Alan Clogwyn
Yes indeed, and very good it is. Both myself and @Mr Perceptive have them:-
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/L-Plate-Bracket-Holder-Hand-Grip-for-Fujifilm-X-T2-XT2-/162272274034?
There is a problem with them, and all L brackets on both the T1 and T2, in that it is hard/impossible to use them in portrait mode with a remote control plugged in. The door just won't close far enough to allow mounting on the top plate. The problem only appears in portrait mode. RRS and Kirk have solved this by building in a sliding side section. You have to undo an Allen key, slide a rail out, lock the bolt up and then use it. When you have finished you have to reverse the process or the side plate remains extended. I suspect that most folk will leave the plate extended through either laziness or losing the Allen key. Have you seen the price of RRS and Kirk, and the Kirk doesn't even cover the whole base of the camera!

I have worked out a dodge/bodge/fix to get round this problem. If you are interested drop me your e-mail and I'll ping you the details and some photos.
 
Sootchucker said:
All, I was going to purchase the 10-24, and went onto the Amazon website, already knowing that Fuji were running an £80 cashback promotion, but I noticed that it said there was a double cashback (so I assume £160) for this lens if purchased between 25th November 2016 and 1st December 2016.

Anyone heard of this and knows the mechanism of how this works please ?
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The T&Cs linked on Amazon are incredibly vague at the moment, and as it's not on the official Fuji Promotions website yet (presumably it will be tomorrow), so I think you'll just have to hang on. If memory serves for similar promotions previously, I think the double cashback kicks in when you buy more than one lens, or a camera and a lens.

Cagey75 said:
I still use LR 5.7 and it's just fine, don't know why people moan that it's bad for Fuji files.
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Because it is (slower, at least). Sony a7, D750 etc files wizz through no problem, so it's not purely a file size issue. Fuji files seem to take an age to import and generate. My concern was that moving to what is potentially a slightly slower machine would make the issue appreciably worse.

I've still got loads of a7 / D750 RAWs so if I get a chance I'll run a few comparisons. From what I remember though, the difference could be counted in minutes.
 
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Alan Clogwyn said:
We moan because there is a clear and easily demonstrable difference. LR6 has definitely narrowed the gap though (with the T2 at least).
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very, very little difference, I have tested both with the same files. If you can demonstrate the clear difference I would actually love to see it. Because I'm holding back on ordering the CC one because I don't see it. The CC version is great for anyone who didn't already have a recent updated version, but if you do, it's good enough IMO.
 
Sootchucker said:
OK, so after just having a full purge on all my Nikon FX gear, I have a good chunk of money sat in the bank.

I also have a healthy M4/3 set up (GX8 and EM1 bodies and a good selection of lenses). These won't go (for now at least), and I was going to purchase the EM1 MK II (despite the price). However on reading the review from DPReview, whilst it's no doubt a stellar camera, as I don't shoot sports etc. I have no real need for it's main claim to fame which is speed. Coupled with that the review said there wasn't really any meaningful image quality difference between the EM1 and EM1 MK II -not that the MK I is bad - it isn't, but high ISO isn't it's thing, which is only to be expected. I'm sure the EM1 MK II will be the best M4/3 camera ever made, but I'm looking for something just as small (I know the lenses will be a little bigger), but with better resolution than my 16mp set up and with better high ISO).

So I've decided to bite the bullet and see what all this Fuji malarkey was about and just ordered myself an X-T2 with the 18-55 kit lens and battery grip, (yes I've gone to the dark - or is it light side :)).

Now comes some questions.

Is there a roadmap of what lenses Fuji are developing ? I know they have the 18-135mm as a good walk around lens, bur I can't seem to see anything which starts at 16mm (24mm in old money), so something like a 16-80 (24-120) or even a 16-135 (24-200) ?

What's the quality of the 18-55 kit lens like, is it half decent ?. I'm not really a prime guy, so was thinking long term around a 10-24, 18-135 (or 16-135 if launched) and the 55-200 as a decent quality set up from 15mm to 300mm equivalent which shouldn't be too big or bulky ? Does this sound reasonable ?

I tend to like using wide-angle lenses, and am looking at the Fuji 10-24. It's an expensive beast but can anyone comment on it's value for money and quality ?

Batteries for the X-T2 seem to come at quite a premium, and I read that some people are using Ex-Pro versions from Amazon. Are these the ones and will they work in the X-T2 ?

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Ex-Pro-126...d=1479973078&sr=8-3&keywords=battery+for+x-t2

By the way, what's the difference between the Fuji NP-W126 and NP-W126S batteries ?

Finally (and sorry for so many questions), what are people using as their raw developer of choice. I tend to use Lightroom, but not sure if that's the best for the Fuji X-Trans sensor ?

Many thanks in advance.
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Further to the other responses, there is loads of choice - too much in fact, all good quality as well.

For 16mm, you really are spoiled for choice, with 10-24, 16mm 1.4 and 16-55. I have the 16-55 2.8 and the 18-55 (I bought the kit, then bought the 2.8). I haven't decided if I'm going to let the 18-55 go or not, but probably not for now; as everyone says, it's much better than what you would ordinarily consider a "kit" lens and didn't cost me any more than its used resale value when bought with the camera, so it's a no brainer. My only dislike of it, is that I prefer a bit wider at the wide end. I've got the Zeiss Touit 12mm 2.8 and will be getting the 16mm 1.4, which is arguably overkill given my 16mm coverage, but lens buying is addictive for this system and I think (having come from FF), that it's nice to have the fast apertures to make up for the DOF difference with APS-C. there is also a 14mm 2.8 which I don't have, but the results I've seen are awesome. I can't decide on the 10-24. On the one hand it's OIS and ultrawide, on the other it's quite costly (and not quite as good as the primes) and max f4. Very versatile. I don't think that matters re the f4, except that's more like 5.6 in APSC in respect of DOF, so much will always be in focus. If all I did were landscape, probably not an issue, but I can't decide on it, given the excellent primes in that range and my 16-55.

I also have the 23mm 1.4, which so far, is my favourite lens on the camera. It's small, 1.4 and really sharp and the focal length is really versatile. It's also relatively good value for some reason.

All the XF lenses seem really well made. Having come from a Canon system, I'd even go as far to say that build quality is better than on some of the L lenses. The feel of them is divine, and you can't beat metal in a lens construction for making it feel like a precision optical instrument!
 
Yep, D750 thread's certainly been pretty quiet of late :(
 
snerkler said:
1st one is :cool: Is it me or does it have a very slight magenta hue?
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Yeah, I was messing about with WB in post, it was originally a cool blue-ish tint, I just liked the feel of it like this :) You can see me in the droplet I should have waved :D
 
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Sootchucker said:
All, I was going to purchase the 10-24, and went onto the Amazon website, already knowing that Fuji were running an £80 cashback promotion, but I noticed that it said there was a double cashback (so I assume £160) for this lens if purchased between 25th November 2016 and 1st December 2016.

Anyone heard of this and knows the mechanism of how this works please ?
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Where did you see this ? I can see no mention of double cashback on the Amazon site.
 
Cagey75 said:
very, very little difference, I have tested both with the same files. If you can demonstrate the clear difference I would actually love to see it. Because I'm holding back on ordering the CC one because I don't see it. The CC version is great for anyone who didn't already have a recent updated version, but if you do, it's good enough IMO.
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I have done, repeatedly. (But not with the T2).
mickledore said:
@Alan Clogwyn
Yes indeed, and very good it is. Both myself and @Mr Perceptive have them:-
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/L-Plate-Bracket-Holder-Hand-Grip-for-Fujifilm-X-T2-XT2-/162272274034?
There is a problem with them, and all L brackets on both the T1 and T2, in that it is hard/impossible to use them in portrait mode with a remote control plugged in. The door just won't close far enough to allow mounting on the top plate. The problem only appears in portrait mode. RRS and Kirk have solved this by building in a sliding side section. You have to undo an Allen key, slide a rail out, lock the bolt up and then use it. When you have finished you have to reverse the process or the side plate remains extended. I suspect that most folk will leave the plate extended through either laziness or losing the Allen key. Have you seen the price of RRS and Kirk, and the Kirk doesn't even cover the whole base of the camera!

I have worked out a dodge/bodge/fix to get round this problem. If you are interested drop me your e-mail and I'll ping you the details and some photos.
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Good, mine's been dispatched apparently. I've not ever had reason to use the remote in portrait mode on the bracketed T1, I doubt it'll matter to me on the GT2 either. The tripod head can be rotated portrait anyway should the need arise, I mainly use brackets because they provide a far more sturdy mounting on the camera that crappy little square plates that constantly undo in use and stab you in the stomach when the camera is round your neck!
 
Sootchucker said:
All, I was going to purchase the 10-24, and went onto the Amazon website, already knowing that Fuji were running an £80 cashback promotion, but I noticed that it said there was a double cashback (so I assume £160) for this lens if purchased between 25th November 2016 and 1st December 2016.

Anyone heard of this and knows the mechanism of how this works please ?
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I think the double cashback is only when you buy a camera + lens?
 
Alan Clogwyn said:
Good, mine's been dispatched apparently.
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If you've bought one of those from Southsea it doesn't mean that it's on its way to you. They all seem to come from China. I was given a Royal Mail tracking number that RM said didn't exist....until the morning of delivery!
No worries about the quality. More than good enough for your needs.

BTW. @Alan Clogwyn. Do you know anything about Cwmorthin?
I was fancying a trip at the weekend and it's years since I've been in there. Is it safe to park there? Last time I was there the Welsh Nats had a reputation for putting rocks through windows?
 
jimgallaher said:
Where did you see this ? I can see no mention of double cashback on the Amazon site.
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It was here on the amazon site:

https://www.amazon.co.uk/b/ref=dp_f...m=A3P5ROKL5A1OLE&pf_rd_r=JEJFVYM358VTFVDG81DY

And this lens is one of many I was looking at ?


On the link to the Fuji T&C's is says this ?

DOUBLE CASHBACK
7. To qualify for Double Cashback, a qualifying camera, camera kit or lens must be
purchased between 25th November 2016 and 1st December 2016
8. Lens(es) purchased as part of a Camera Kit does not constitute a Qualifying product
 
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Trawling through my Fuji motorsport archives to decide which direction to go in for my limited opportunities to shoot motorsport next season (I'm telephoto-less at the moment). If they could make a cheap XC zoom that goes to 300mm I'd be a happy bunny, don't think I really need to be spending money on the 50-140 or 100-400. I blind tested a bunch of photos and aside from the few where I knew which lens I was using at a particular event, I had no idea if it was a £150 XC50-230 or £1300 100-400mm...

RS Combe 2015 by Chris Harrison, on Flickr

I think the 50-230 will win unless I can find a good deal on a 55-200.
 
A question for you all which was no doubt answered at some point but this thread is huge :)

Looking for longer reach than the 135, but it hardly seems worth it for the 50-200 and the 400 is out of my price range now, so who's the 50-230?
 
Just been shooting lego stormtroopers with the 35mm f1.4 wide open and I'm getting weird 'ghosting' effect, and poor focussing. Both were focussed on the helmet, and in neither I would say that it is sharp, with the 2nd being quite a bit off (focus seems more on the camera to me). No matter how much I tried I got the same results. Stopping down did improve things a bit. Is this just the way the 35mm is wide open at or close to minimum focus distance, the nature of the subject, that the AF struggles with shiny plastic stuff or something else? I'm surprised the AF struggled as you don't get any more contrast than black and white ;)

These are 100% crops

Screen%20Shot%202016-11-24%20at%2016.44.09_zpswxmlygpw.png

Screen%20Shot%202016-11-24%20at%2016.44.23_zpsypqrnvu6.png
 
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snerkler said:
Just been shooting lego stormtroopers with the 35mm f1.4 wide open and I'm getting weird 'ghosting' effect, and poor focussing. Both were focussed on the helmet, and in neither I would say that it is sharp, with the 2nd being quite a bit off (focus seems more on the camera to me). No matter how much I tried I got the same results. Stopping down did improve things a bit. Is this just the way the 35mm is wide open at or close to minimum focus distance, the nature of the subject, that the AF struggles with shiny plastic stuff or something else? I'm surprised the AF struggled as you don't get any more contrast than black and white ;)

Screen%20Shot%202016-11-24%20at%2016.44.09_zpswxmlygpw.png

Screen%20Shot%202016-11-24%20at%2016.44.23_zpsypqrnvu6.png
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It a fooj what u expect :p

It faulty send it back. Honestly joking aside that is a disappointment matev
 
snerkler said:
Just been shooting lego stormtroopers with the 35mm f1.4 wide open and I'm getting weird 'ghosting' effect, and poor focussing. Both were focussed on the helmet, and in neither I would say that it is sharp, with the 2nd being quite a bit off (focus seems more on the camera to me). No matter how much I tried I got the same results. Stopping down did improve things a bit. Is this just the way the 35mm is wide open at or close to minimum focus distance, the nature of the subject, that the AF struggles with shiny plastic stuff or something else? I'm surprised the AF struggled as you don't get any more contrast than black and white ;)

Screen%20Shot%202016-11-24%20at%2016.44.09_zpswxmlygpw.png

Screen%20Shot%202016-11-24%20at%2016.44.23_zpsypqrnvu6.png
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Surely your min focusing distance is the cause here?
 
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