The Fabulous Fuji X owners thread

Afternoon all, long time no type… I’ve been away from all things photography for a few years now due to some personal stuff at home, which resulted in me closing my wedding biz and selling my bodies and glass.
I’m now looking to slowly reintroduce myself to photography and seeing as I still have my lights annd flashes etc thought I’d stick with Fuji. So I want to check if the XH-1 is still relevant 4 years down line? I’m looking to buy a used body and a couple of lenses to start me off. My last bodies were XT-3s and XH-1s.
Obviously I know there’s been advancements in technology but thought I’d check with those that still use the bodies mentioned.
Thanks in advance,
Nick
 
Afternoon all, long time no type… I’ve been away from all things photography for a few years now due to some personal stuff at home, which resulted in me closing my wedding biz and selling my bodies and glass.
I’m now looking to slowly reintroduce myself to photography and seeing as I still have my lights annd flashes etc thought I’d stick with Fuji. So I want to check if the XH-1 is still relevant 4 years down line? I’m looking to buy a used body and a couple of lenses to start me off. My last bodies were XT-3s and XH-1s.
Obviously I know there’s been advancements in technology but thought I’d check with those that still use the bodies mentioned.
Thanks in advance,
Nick
I can only speak from personal experience. I bought my first X-H1 when the new price dropped to £1,200. I bought it because it felt very similar to my Nikon D700 in my hand. I tried both the X-H2 and X-H2s in my local camera shop when they became available and thought that their build quality did not match that of the X-H1.

As a result of this I bought another used X-H1 and got both serviced by Fujifilm UK. Unfortunately I haven't been able to use them anywhere near the amount of time I would have liked over the last year, but they have performed well when I have.

I know some complain about the weight of the X-H1, particularly with the battery pack attached, but as I found when I bought my 150-600 zoom lens, that weight has advantages when hand holding. I am looking at the X-H1 from the point of view of a run of the mill amateur who takes pleasue in photography and particularly likes the jpeg output from the X-H1 sensor.

Obviously those who require rapid focus/burst shooting for their type of photography will need to look elsewhere.
 
Afternoon all, long time no type… I’ve been away from all things photography for a few years now due to some personal stuff at home, which resulted in me closing my wedding biz and selling my bodies and glass.
I’m now looking to slowly reintroduce myself to photography and seeing as I still have my lights annd flashes etc thought I’d stick with Fuji. So I want to check if the XH-1 is still relevant 4 years down line? I’m looking to buy a used body and a couple of lenses to start me off. My last bodies were XT-3s and XH-1s.
Obviously I know there’s been advancements in technology but thought I’d check with those that still use the bodies mentioned.
Thanks in advance,
Nick

The older cameras function just as well as they did when they were newer! The X-T3 benefited from several firmware updates improving the AF. The X-H1 has an older sensor (24MP X-Trans2) but its well liked, and the X-H1 was built exceptionally well.

I use an X-T3 for motorsports (with the XF100-400) and only found it lacking (slightly) with fast AF (head on car shots, where not all images in a burst are in focus).

I like the X-T3 and its probably the current bargain (for a photo shooter as opposed to video) in £££ vs performance in the X-T range. I did have an X-H1 for a time, but didn't bond with it (personal choice, and moved it on when I bought a GFX)

These older (lower resolution) sensors can use all the glass made by Fuji, some of the newer glass is not recommended (on the newer higher resolution sensors).

Most of what you would lose against the current X-T5 and X-H2 would be resolution, AF speed (plus subject detection/tracking) and extra JPEG profiles. If none of these bother you then there is a lot of merit in working with older bodies.
 
Last edited:
Afternoon all, long time no type… I’ve been away from all things photography for a few years now due to some personal stuff at home, which resulted in me closing my wedding biz and selling my bodies and glass.
I’m now looking to slowly reintroduce myself to photography and seeing as I still have my lights annd flashes etc thought I’d stick with Fuji. So I want to check if the XH-1 is still relevant 4 years down line? I’m looking to buy a used body and a couple of lenses to start me off. My last bodies were XT-3s and XH-1s.
Obviously I know there’s been advancements in technology but thought I’d check with those that still use the bodies mentioned.
Thanks in advance,
Nick
I'm still with X-T2s and GFX 50Ss (+X100T) plenty good enough for what I need.
 
Last edited:
X-Pro2 ‘Drive’ Question:

I love my X-Pro2’s but I have to be careful as my fingers love changing settings without telling me! :oops: :$
Accordingly I have the rear buttons set to ‘off’ so that the fingers can’t fool me!

However I want to have an option to quickly change the ‘Drive’ mode from single to continuous. The Internet says I can programme the Fn (or other) button to Drive mode … but it isn’t an option that I am presented with!

Anyone put me out of my misery - please?
 
Does anyone ever suffer with their X-T5 not turning on and off properly? Especially if turned on and off in quick succession. Its like the camera doesn't register the dial is being turned. It eventually catches up or might need the battery taking out to reset. Its got the latest firmware on.
 
Does anyone ever suffer with their X-T5 not turning on and off properly? Especially if turned on and off in quick succession. Its like the camera doesn't register the dial is being turned. It eventually catches up or might need the battery taking out to reset. Its got the latest firmware on.
Mine has been fine. But I'm not sure why you need to turn it on and off in such quick succession. I would think that the majority of electrical equipment would do a similar thing in those circumstances.
 
Mine has been fine. But I'm not sure why you need to turn it on and off in such quick succession. I would think that the majority of electrical equipment would do a similar thing in those circumstances.

This. The circuits need to discharge fully before switching back on. Give it a second or two.

This is in my experience.
 
When my mum was young she got into trouble with my grandad for asking to watch Fireball XL5 - he misheard her and thought she said Fire b*****ks L5 :D
That was my first influence into sci-fi. Just showing my age :ROFLMAO:
 
Do you mind if I nick that for my wallpaper?
No, not at all. Go for it (y)

If it's too small. Gimme a shout and send you a bigger one.
 
My favourite show as a kid! Had a XL5 that you fired into the sky with huge catapult that detached the nosecone which parachuted down with the fuselage having a larger parachute. Brilliant image :)
Yup, mine too. Space was fascinating for a kid in the early 60's.

Thanks, mate (y)
 
A candid street style Snap captured a guy working from a nearby construction site who stopped for a "Break For Toast".

"Break For Toast"

Break For Toast-04028 by G.K.Jnr., on Flickr
 
Anyone know if you make a film sim with grain or clarity adjustments, whether this is applied to the RAW file? I know the colour grading, white balance etc don't apply to the raw or can easily be edited, so I would assume grain wouldnt either.
Film sims will only be jpeg.
 
Anyone know if you make a film sim with grain or clarity adjustments, whether this is applied to the RAW file? I know the colour grading, white balance etc don't apply to the raw or can easily be edited, so I would assume grain wouldnt either.

You can set LR to import the RAWs with "in camera simulation settings" applied. But I'm not sure if it does (or can) add ALL in camera settings.
 
I understand that I could tether my X-T5 to my phone using the Fuji App (not tried it yet).

QQ...
Has anyone done this to an inexpensive tablet and had it work - if so, which tablet? (I'm thinking something with a 10" screen roughly)
When tethered, do the RAWs still get saved to your SD card?

I guess I should try the second part of my question myself (though I have an inexpensive Motorola phone, so...) but the main part of the question is really has anyone already done this and have any real world recommendations / advice :)

Ta
 
1762511468282-DSCF0999.jpg


1762510939335-DSCF7183-2.jpg
 
Back
Top