The Amazing Sony A1/A7/A9/APS-C & Anything else welcome Mega Thread!

Both the tripod and the camera are level.
OS is also switched off :thinking:
I assume you mean form this the tripod has a spirit level on in which case leaves a couple of possibilities, the sensor is not straight or the horizon isn’t. Is it always off the same way and by the same amount?
 
I assume you mean form this the tripod has a spirit level on in which case leaves a couple of possibilities, the sensor is not straight or the horizon isn’t. Is it always off the same way and by the same amount?
Think it could be the sensor because everything else is spirit level, level.
I could calibrate the Olympus but not the Sony
I'm not too bothered with landscapes but it's the seascapes that are pi@@ing me off.
Always roughly in the same direction by the same amount
 
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Think it could be the sensor because everything else is spirit level, level.
I could calibrate the Olympus but not the Sony
I'm not too bothered with landscapes but it's the seascapes that are pi@@ing me off.
Always roughly in the same direction by the same amount
There’s no way I know of to calibrate it, but if the spirit level and camera level are showing the same thing then it does not need calibrating and it’s something else that’s wrong. Imo it either needs sending in to have it checked or if you know how much it’s off and in which direction then you could compensate when framing.

I personally frame a lot of the time using the grid lines to level it, although admittedly when using a tripod (rare these days) I use the camera level.
 
Think it could be the sensor because everything else is spirit level, level.
I could calibrate the Olympus but not the Sony
I'm not too bothered with landscapes but it's the seascapes that are pi@@ing me off.
Always roughly in the same direction by the same amount

I've found mine on the A7 to not be 'perfect' - I'm not sure if that's an actual issue or because the angle can be changed ever so slightly whilst the level is 'green' so hence it's just not 100% accurate.

I do use it a lot for night skies but then everything needs rotating & cropping there anyway.
 
I've found mine on the A7 to not be 'perfect' - I'm not sure if that's an actual issue or because the angle can be changed ever so slightly whilst the level is 'green' so hence it's just not 100% accurate.

I do use it a lot for night skies but then everything needs rotating & cropping there anyway.
Agreed there is a margin where you can change the angle ever so slightly and it stays green/level, whether this is noticeable or not by eye in the final image I don’t know.

On a different note I’m always amazed how much I move the camera when pressing the shutter button, unless deliberately trying really hard to not get any movement the image ‘jumps’ slightly after it’s taken the shot which I’m guessing is the release of IBIS.
 
I've got some stubborn dust that I'm yet to remove with the rocket blower or in camera sensor clean so am considering a wet clean. I'm yet to do this on a body with IBIS, are there any precautions I need to take as I'm sure I've read somewhere that you can cause issues when cleaning 'floating' sensors?
 
I've got some stubborn dust that I'm yet to remove with the rocket blower or in camera sensor clean so am considering a wet clean. I'm yet to do this on a body with IBIS, are there any precautions I need to take as I'm sure I've read somewhere that you can cause issues when cleaning 'floating' sensors?
never had issues tbh. Just clean it as normal. The sensor normally doesn't move anyway. It may move if you put too much pressure but I am not sure if that much pressure would be good for your sensor anyway before worrying about IBIS.
 
Is there not a cleaning mode which locks the sensor or something?
Not that I'm aware of, there is a self clean and the option to close the shutter when powered off but nothing else I've found.
 
never had issues tbh. Just clean it as normal. The sensor normally doesn't move anyway. It may move if you put too much pressure but I am not sure if that much pressure would be good for your sensor anyway before worrying about IBIS.
Thanks, I'm always cautious/gentle (y)
 
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Is there not a cleaning mode which locks the sensor or something?

With old DSLR you out the camera in mirror locking mode to stop the mirror flapping down, with mirrorless, at least with the older Sony where the default is shutter wide open…nothing. I guess with the newer bodies you need to set it with shutter open.
 
Out of curiosity for those that use manual lenses, when taking landscapes do you still manually focus or do you just rely on the range scale? I usually focus using the hyperfocal distance so am thinking the range scale should allow you to do this without actually having to manually focus.
 
Not that I'm aware of, there is a self clean and the option to close the shutter when powered off but nothing else I've found.

With old DSLR you out the camera in mirror locking mode to stop the mirror flapping down, with mirrorless, at least with the older Sony where the default is shutter wide open…nothing. I guess with the newer bodies you need to set it with shutter open.

Sony just recommend the standard sensor cleaning mode shake followed by a blower by the looks of things & then.....

  • If the dust remains even after you cleaned the product as described, consult the service facility.
 
Is there not a cleaning mode which locks the sensor or something?
I would have thought the IBIS is very fragile so important to 'lock' it before cleaning the sensor. On the Sony A7 IV when you use the self cleaning option it - it then goes into a mode for cleaning the sensor, and it's not until you switch the camera off that it returns to normal and the IBIS is reactivated. Unless I'm mistaken
 
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I would have thought the IBIS is very fragile so important to 'lock' it before cleaning the sensor. On the Sony A7 IV when you use the self cleaning option it - it then goes into a mode for cleaning the sensor, and it's not until you switch the camera off that it returns to normal and the IBIS is reactivated. Unless I'm mistaken
I don't think the cleaning mode does anything tbh.
I have always used it but it mostly just shakes the sensor and that's it I think.
It may lock the sensor and I could be wrong but I haven't read anywhere that it does.

Also if I'm not mistaken the ibis system operates with magnets so moving the sensor probably won't damage mechanical parts. I don't think it's super fragile.
 
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Out of curiosity for those that use manual lenses, when taking landscapes do you still manually focus or do you just rely on the range scale? I usually focus using the hyperfocal distance so am thinking the range scale should allow you to do this without actually having to manually focus.

It depends :D

With a lens in the 24-50mm range and scene where there's nothing really all that close to the camera at f8/f10 or even wider (f5/f5.6?) everything will be acceptable if you've focussed at infinity or there abouts. This could be the case for a lot of scenes especially if you're stood up. If you're kneeling down or shooting with the camera held at that sort of height and there's anything close to you and that may be more likely as if you're kneeling down or holding the camera lower if nothing else the ground could well be closer and leaves or stones or anything that you want to be acceptably sharp might not be so you may need to focus on something or at a distance other than infinity.

I usually only use zone or prefocus at closer distances for moving people shots, like Mrs WW throwing snowballs or jumping as she sometimes does.

Other than that I very often do deliberately focus, partly as I can't stop myself looking closely.
 
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It depends :D

With a lens in the 24-50mm range and scene where there's nothing really all that close to the camera at f8/f10 or even wider (f5/f5.6?) everything will be acceptable if you've focussed at infinity or there abouts. This could be the case for a lot of scenes especially if you're stood up. If you're kneeling down or shooting with the camera held at that sort of height and there's anything close to you and that may be more likely as if you're kneeling down or holding the camera lower if nothing else the ground could well be closer and leaves or stones or anything that you want to be acceptably sharp might not be so you may need to focus on something or at a distance other than infinity.

I usually only use zone or prefocus at closer distances for moving people shots, like Mrs WW throwing snowballs or jumping as she sometimes does.
But the range scale shows the hyperfocal distance and not necessarily focussing at infinite as far as I understand it?
 
Sony just recommend the standard sensor cleaning mode shake followed by a blower by the looks of things & then.....

  • If the dust remains even after you cleaned the product as described, consult the service facility.
I think every manufacturer recommends returning the camera if the sensor needs a clean tbh.
 
But the range scale shows the hyperfocal distance and not necessarily focussing at infinite as far as I understand it?

I wouldn't rely on a lens scale in thst way as remember that the hyperfocal scale and tables are for a stated image size and viewing distance which may not stand up to close viewing as we are tempted to do on screen these days. I prefer to use infinity or just before and an acceptable aperture or to focus on something. If relying more on markings I'd possibly reduce the aperture. For eg. If the range/markings are for f5.6 I'd use f8.
 
I would have thought the IBIS is very fragile so important to 'lock' it before cleaning the sensor. On the Sony A7 IV when you use the self cleaning option it - it then goes into a mode for cleaning the sensor, and it's not until you switch the camera off that it returns to normal and the IBIS is reactivated. Unless I'm mistaken

I thought there might be something along those lines. I don't have IBIS so no direct experience but a Google search of A7iii sensor cleaning brought up a selection of YouTube videos about it.
 
Out of curiosity for those that use manual lenses, when taking landscapes do you still manually focus or do you just rely on the range scale? I usually focus using the hyperfocal distance so am thinking the range scale should allow you to do this without actually having to manually focus.

I don't use range scale or hyperfocus.

I focus on whatever the actual subject is.

Saying that, I do find that the Voigtlander lenses are pretty good for infinity actually being infinity at the hard stop.
 
I don't use range scale or hyperfocus.

I focus on whatever the actual subject is.

Saying that, I do find that the Voigtlander lenses are pretty good for infinity actually being infinity at the hard stop.
Thanks, so don’t you worry about max DOF? I know some use f22 and then focus on the subject but I don’t like using f22 (unless going for light stars) due to diffraction so I tend to shoot at f8 and use the hyperfocal distance (y)
 
Thanks, so don’t you worry about max DOF? I know some use f22 and then focus on the subject but I don’t like using f22 (unless going for light stars) due to diffraction so I tend to shoot at f8 and use the hyperfocal distance (y)

Max DOF doesn't bother me at all. It's not always needed anyway. Plus of course it depends on what the 'landscape' scene is :)

And f/22?? I don't even shoot at f/11 unless I'm chasing a slower shutter speed! :ROFLMAO:
 
It's "only" £3160 at Panamoz..........get your purse out Alan, quite tempting at that price.

The A7 does everything I want not that I have much time to take pictures anyway. If and when it dies I suppose I'll get whatever the basic A7 line camera is at the time.

One thing I would like is face detect working better than my A7 as it's range seems pretty limited and from what I've seen in reviews newer cameras seem to be able to lock onto a face which is much smaller in the frame than my A7 can manage.
 
The A7 does everything I want not that I have much time to take pictures anyway. If and when it dies I suppose I'll get whatever the basic A7 line camera is at the time.

One thing I would like is face detect working better than my A7 as it's range seems pretty limited and from what I've seen in reviews newer cameras seem to be able to lock onto a face which is much smaller in the frame than my A7 can manage.

I might see what the A7cii brings.... If we get one :)

Otherwise, I might look into an A7iii :oops: :$
 
I might see what the A7cii brings.... If we get one :)

Otherwise, I might look into an A7iii :oops: :$
given the style of your photography I wonder if one of the A7R series would be better (which ever generation fits within your budget)
 
given the style of your photography I wonder if one of the A7R series would be better (which ever generation fits within your budget)

I think I'd prefer better eye af and better iso performance over resolution though?

I'd also like in camera crop options and something to take an intervalometer - hence the 'c' is out of the choices.
 
I think I'd prefer better eye af and better iso performance over resolution though?

I'd also like in camera crop options and something to take an intervalometer - hence the 'c' is out of the choices.

A7R3 surely is the best bang for buck?

Eye-AF
High res
Intervalometer built in
Clear Zoom for cropping internally
Best IQ Sony Sensors of the lot (on DXO Marks)
Relatively cheap now for what it is.
 
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I might see what the A7cii brings.... If we get one :)

Otherwise, I might look into an A7iii :oops: :$

The current c is just not for me and as Sony have a bit of a history of being stubborn with the controls and spec of evf in the corner cameras I have zero expectation that things will change with the MK2.

I think I'd prefer better eye af and better iso performance over resolution though?

I'd also like in camera crop options and something to take an intervalometer - hence the 'c' is out of the choices.

Current thinking is that the high mp cameras are generally the best performers but even if it's more than marginal I don't think I want to pay the price of massive files.

I don't print much at all these days but will be doing three A3's soon but even my Canon 300D files were good enough for me for A3 as is my 24mp A7. 40/60mp's? I just don't need them although I can see how some like the cropability.
 
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A7R3 surely is the best bang for buck?

Eye-AF
High res
Intervalometer built in
Clear Zoom for cropping internally
Best IQ Sony Sensors of the lot (on DXO Marks)
Relatively cheap now for what it is.

Certainly have to check ISO though to compare. Doing the night sky stuff ISO is something that I'd want a noticeable improvement in.
 
I think I'd prefer better eye af and better iso performance over resolution though?

I'd also like in camera crop options and something to take an intervalometer - hence the 'c' is out of the choices.

Resolution has no discernible affect on ISO performance. It's been proved many times over by many reviewers.

The AF on standard A7 series is a bit better but depends, it's not like R series is terrible. In fact A7Rii is better than A7ii and A7RV is supposedly better than A7iv.
You'll notice more of a different if you are shooting high paced action or unpredictable small children.
 
Resolution has no discernible affect on ISO performance. It's been proved many times over by many reviewers.

The AF on standard A7 series is a bit better but depends, it's not like R series is terrible. In fact A7Rii is better than A7ii and A7RV is supposedly better than A7iv.
You'll notice more of a different if you are shooting high paced action or unpredictable small children.

Thanks.

As you know I don't really follow the latest products closely etc so it's nice to have some input :)
 
Thanks.

As you know I don't really follow the latest products closely etc so it's nice to have some input :)
As already mentioned despite initial thoughts that high res sensors produced more noise the latest studies show this is not the case, much to my surprise. Having owned a few high res cameras I've come to the conclusion that for a lot of people you just don't need it. In normal viewing I don't see any discernible difference in the detail produced by my A7RIV and A9ii. I mainly view on a 3456 x 2234 (254 ppi) screen (roughly 7.7mp) and a 4K TV on occasion (8.3mp) so even with a 24mp I have mp to waste. Obviously this is just my observation, YMMV.

The only reason I now want a high res camera again (preferably A1) is purely for cropping.
 
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