The Amazing Sony A1/A7/A9/APS-C & Anything else welcome Mega Thread!

I have always used Faststone Maxview to view my files but have a couple of problems when viewing the A9 pictures.

First of all I am guessing Sony RAW files have very small jpeg files embedded into them which means I cannot zoom in 100% to check sharpness like with the Canon/Pentax Raws and secondly it shows single shot pictures fine but whenever I use S/M/H multishot I get a mess of purple colours (shown below)

What do other people use to cull through their Sony pics?


DSC00570
by Michael Pursey, on Flickr
 
I have always used Faststone Maxview to view my files but have a couple of problems when viewing the A9 pictures.

First of all I am guessing Sony RAW files have very small jpeg files embedded into them which means I cannot zoom in 100% to check sharpness like with the Canon/Pentax Raws and secondly it shows single shot pictures fine but whenever I use S/M/H multishot I get a mess of purple colours (shown below)

What do other people use to cull through their Sony pics?


DSC00570 by Michael Pursey, on Flickr

FastRawViewer for me.
 
I have always used Faststone Maxview to view my files but have a couple of problems when viewing the A9 pictures.

First of all I am guessing Sony RAW files have very small jpeg files embedded into them which means I cannot zoom in 100% to check sharpness like with the Canon/Pentax Raws and secondly it shows single shot pictures fine but whenever I use S/M/H multishot I get a mess of purple colours (shown below)

What do other people use to cull through their Sony pics?


DSC00570 by Michael Pursey, on Flickr

Photo mechanic
 
I have always used Faststone Maxview to view my files but have a couple of problems when viewing the A9 pictures.

First of all I am guessing Sony RAW files have very small jpeg files embedded into them which means I cannot zoom in 100% to check sharpness like with the Canon/Pentax Raws and secondly it shows single shot pictures fine but whenever I use S/M/H multishot I get a mess of purple colours (shown below)

What do other people use to cull through their Sony pics?


DSC00570 by Michael Pursey, on Flickr
Photo Mechanic for me. I am forced to shoot Raw/Jpeg so I can zoom into 100% and cull. A real PITA and something Sony should really change imo.
 
Photo Mechanic for me. I am forced to shoot Raw/Jpeg so I can zoom into 100% and cull. A real PITA and something Sony should really change imo.

With FRV you can do that with the raw files with virtually no loading delay - no need for jpg.
 
I’m going to give these a go as it sounds like a faster way to cull as I’ve always imported into LR and culled from there but it’s a frustratingly slow process viewing 1:1 all the time, even if I’ve built 1:1 previews.
 
I'll try a trial. PhotoMechanic is brilliant with other makes
I’m going to give these a go as it sounds like a faster way to cull as I’ve always imported into LR and culled from there but it’s a frustratingly slow process viewing 1:1 all the time, even if I’ve built 1:1 previews.
It is still annoying that Sony doesn't include a jpg preview.
But these days I don't even bother checking because I'm pretty sure it's all in focus :ROFLMAO:
 
I just realised last night that the skytracker thing, the camera is not mounted and rotate centre to the motor....would that matter? I guess not that you will notice is the answer right?
 
Can we really go a day with no posts? Er, no as Raymond posted as I was typing :D

Just for fun, at Mt Grace Priory. A7 and Voigtlander 35mm f1.4.

Kp1IWty.jpg


There's an amazing tree there that's worth the visit on its own.

The Madonna Of The Cross.

UaBCgWr.jpg


"This Madonna is not the meek and subservient figure portrayed in so many paintings but a determined and intelligent young woman"

Also, not Sony, a Canon wearable ring camera! Just think what pictures you could take with one of these.

 
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I just realised last night that the skytracker thing, the camera is not mounted and rotate centre to the motor....would that matter? I guess not that you will notice is the answer right?

I don't understand your question either....
not that I have ever owned one but I am an armchair expert at it with a great amount of theoretical knowledge :ROFLMAO:
 
I don't quite follow you, sorry. Have you had a look at this?:
View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tDgMXAW7jGI

I take it that it has arrived OK?

Yeah, arrived thanks! Need to give it a test shot sometime though but will try to put a set up together later to test.

What i mean is....the little monocular thing it comes with, you point that at Polaris. which is what you center is on, but the camera is off that "centre". The motor should be centred to Polaris and the sensor should be centre to that axis too?

So the centre of the camera (sensor) is not dead centre to polaris as you never centre it with the camera in the first place. A bit like looking through a Rangefinder vs a DSLR.
 
Please forgive me if you already understand this but:
that monocular device is the polarscope, if you look through it you will see a pattern called a reticle. The pattern itself varies from scope to scope. If you insert the scope in tracker you have to make a very slight rotational adjustment so that pattern is vertical, literally a twist of a couple of millimetres, you then lock it in place with the little screw. When you turn the tracker on it illuminates the polarscope, that illumination can be increased or decreased. The next thing to do is use an app on your phone which tells you the exact position of Polaris relative to that reticle or a reticle close in appearance.

I use an app called Polar Finder. You then move the knobs on the base wedge to place your observation of Polaris to the same position as the app shows you. You are then polar aligned, it doesn't matter where the camera is pointing, it doesn't even matter if the camera is not on the tracker yet, the important thing is that the tracker itself is aligned.

It sounds daunting but once you've done it it makes sense and is really easy. Once again I apologise if you already know this.
If in doubt please phone me.
 
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to avoid camera shake with the shutter / mirror or to even press the shutter button just hold a black card in front of the lens close but not touching then take it away after say 10 seconds when it's all settled down.

Rob.
 
Please forgive me if you already understand this but:
that monocular device is the polarscope, if you look through it you will see a pattern called a reticle. The pattern itself varies from scope to scope. If you insert the scope in tracker you have to make a very slight rotational adjustment so that pattern is vertical, literally a twist of a couple of millimetres, you then lock it in place with the little screw. When you turn the tracker on it illuminates the polarscope, that illumination can be increased or decreased. The next thing to do is use an app on your phone which tells you the exact position of Polaris relative to that reticle or a reticle close in appearance.

I use an app called Polar Finder. You then move the knobs on the base wedge to place your observation of Polaris to the same position as the app shows you. You are then polar aligned, it doesn't matter where the camera is pointing, it doesn't even matter if the camera is not on the tracker yet, the important thing is that the tracker itself is aligned.

It sounds daunting but once you've done it it makes sense and is really easy. Once again I apologise if you already know this.
If in doubt please phone me.

I have no doubt the tech works as it’s used by many, I am merely trying to work it out in my head how the motor would be the centre but the camera isn’t and whether that would make a difference. Clearly not as evidently the tech works…
 
I have no doubt the tech works as it’s used by many, I am merely trying to work it out in my head how the motor would be the centre but the camera isn’t and whether that would make a difference. Clearly not as evidently the tech works…
I can understand your problem, it didn't make sense to me to begin with so I didn't think about it :D .The important thing is that the circular base (what some people call the Mickey Mouse thing because of it's shape!) will rotate along the Right Ascension axis when the camera is attached to it and fixed on the subject thus negating the rotation of the earth relative to the skies.
Phone me too.

Not got a clue about trackers but I like a chat.
Absolutely, name your subject.....:LOL:
 
Yeah, arrived thanks! Need to give it a test shot sometime though but will try to put a set up together later to test.

What i mean is....the little monocular thing it comes with, you point that at Polaris. which is what you center is on, but the camera is off that "centre". The motor should be centred to Polaris and the sensor should be centre to that axis too?

So the centre of the camera (sensor) is not dead centre to polaris as you never centre it with the camera in the first place. A bit like looking through a Rangefinder vs a DSLR.

as Laurence mentioned you are only aligning the motor/rotor using the scope.
You are most definitely not aligning your camera or sensor otherwise all you will have is pictures of the polaris which isn't all that interesting tbh ;)
 
I can understand your problem, it didn't make sense to me to begin with so I didn't think about it :D .The important thing is that the circular base (what some people call the Mickey Mouse thing because of it's shape!) will rotate along the Right Ascension axis when the camera is attached to it and fixed on the subject thus negating the rotation of the earth relative to the skies.

Absolutely, name your subject.....:LOL:

Thanks, I am going to read more, set it up, test and no doubt will come back with more n00b questions!

p.s. no 105/1.4 for Astro lol It will fall under 3kg with the leather grip off but it still would be at the limit and honestly not a good idea. The 85mm is about 900g lighter so probably go with that as my longest.

m1Wzs03.jpg



27yRSm4.jpg
 
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Thanks, I am going to read more, set it up, test and no doubt will come back with more n00b questions!

p.s. no 105/1.4 for Astro lol It will fall under 3kg with the leather grip off but it still would be at the limit and honestly not a good idea. The 85mm is about 900g lighter so probably go with that as my longest.

m1Wzs03.jpg



27yRSm4.jpg
Most people doing landscape astrophotography use much shorter focal length lenses which are lighter. Have you decided what astro objects you want to capture?
I was doing deep sky objects on that tracker using the Samyang 135mm f2 plus a 1.4x TC and it was under the weight limit by a margin.
 
Thanks, I am going to read more, set it up, test and no doubt will come back with more n00b questions!

p.s. no 105/1.4 for Astro lol It will fall under 3kg with the leather grip off but it still would be at the limit and honestly not a good idea. The 85mm is about 900g lighter so probably go with that as my longest.

m1Wzs03.jpg



27yRSm4.jpg

I obviously have the MSM & two ballheads but yeah, that's pretty much how mine is set up for shooting.
 
Most people doing landscape astrophotography use much shorter focal length lenses which are lighter. Have you decided what astro objects you want to capture?
I was doing deep sky objects on that tracker using the Samyang 135mm f2 plus a 1.4x TC and it was under the weight limit by a margin.

No plans as yet, I am just testing on the scales the limit of what kit I can use that's all.
 
Right, done some reading, got an app, I think I understand it now (in principle). I really want to try it tonight as the sky is clear but got to get up early in the morning. Will try it this weekend.
 
A practice shoot for Flynn the Whippet. Terrible backgrounds I know, but we just wanted to get some shots in to practice focus at a local field before doing a real shoot at somewhere more suitable this weekend. All shots with Sony A7iii - Sigma 150-600c & MC-11 - Sony 85mm f/1.8

1:
DSC09674-Edit by Anthony Andrades, on Flickr

2:
DSC09662-Edit by Anthony Andrades, on Flickr

3:
DSC09580-Edit by Anthony Andrades, on Flickr

4:
DSC09537-Edit by Anthony Andrades, on Flickr

5:
DSC09524-Edit by Anthony Andrades, on Flickr

6:
DSC09510-Edit by Anthony Andrades, on Flickr
 
sigma 150-600mm specs and possible pricing leaked

 
sigma 150-600mm specs and possible pricing leaked

2.1kg :( Was to be expected though ;)
 
I wonder if it will be an internal focus zoom like the Sony.
but the weight isn't a surprise.
I doubt it going by their previous teles but you never know. Not something that bothers me tbh.
I wonder if they'll crack the 15FPS limitation

@snerkler and response from Tamron/Sigma on this?
No, nothing yet.
 
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