Show us yer film shots then!

From film but approached slightly differently. I wondered how prints would look if the rebate were left intact, I kinda like them!

Please excuse the digital photos of the prints... #criminal :whistle:

m77gPMb.jpg

m77gPMb.jpg


BoZeBQl.jpg
 
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How big are they?
 
PMN said:
From film but approached slightly differently. I wondered how prints would look if the rebate were left intact, I kinda like them!

Please excuse the digital photos of the prints... #criminal :whistle:

m77gPMb.jpg

m77gPMb.jpg


BoZeBQl.jpg
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I like 'em :-)

I've been tinkering with leaving a little rebate around the edge so that it creates a thin black line. I find it takes me ages to set up, but I love the effect. It really sets off the image. Also got some sprocket holes on the ones I shot with my Dad's Fed4 as the film alignment is so dodgy. Not sure I like that as it's only a bit of the hole. Your 'full sprocket' looks much better.

Is the last one an RA4 print or inkjet?
 
FujiLove said:
I like 'em :)

I've been tinkering with leaving a little rebate around the edge so that it creates a thin black line. I find it takes me ages to set up, but I love the effect. It really sets off the image. Also got some sprocket holes on the ones I shot with my Dad's Fed4 as the film alignment is so dodgy. Not sure I like that as it's only a bit of the hole. Your 'full sprocket' looks much better.

Is the last one an RA4 print or inkjet?
Click to expand...

Yeah I've tried only showing some of the holes and it didn't really work, this is definitely better to my eyes! They're both prints from a local lab, I think they're actually laser prints. :)
 
simon ess said:
I bought an orange filter for the Olympus RC.
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I have a 35RC (and a 35ERC which has the same 43.5mm filter size) and I purchased a 43.5mm - 52mm step-up ring so I can share filters I already have for the Fugi GA645Zi which is often in the same bag. It might not affect image quality problems but at least this approach is cheaper !

You can see the filter ring in the corner of the viewfinder but it's not too intrusive.
 
It seems to have affected exposure and tones, but not in a good way, as much as sharpness so I'm a bit reluctant to use any filters on it again.

If I want the effect of an orange filter I'll use the Nikon FG.
 
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Went on a photo walk around Bristol Temple Meads. Got a couple of decent shots, but I think I buggered up the development. Used HP5+ and TMax Developer, it's turned out REALLY grainy. I think I messed the temperatures up, think my developer was too warm, unless HP5+ is just grainy and I've forgotten how bad it was! Still, some interesting results in the album here.

Bristol Walk by Charlotte Davis, on Flickr

Bristol Walk by Charlotte Davis, on Flickr

Bristol Walk by Charlotte Davis, on Flickr
 
simon ess said:
It seems to have affected exposure and tones, but not in a good way, as much as sharpness so I'm a bit reluctant to use any filters on it again.

If I want the effect of an orange filter I'll use the Nikon FG.
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An orange filter should affect the tones - and the required exposure. I assume you allowed for the filter factor. I'm not familiar with the Olympus 35RC, but from a photo it seems to have a meter window around the lens which would be covered by the filter. CdS meters (which I assume this is) are overly sensitive to red, and if you meter through a red filter you'll typically be about a stop under. Orange is bordering on red. You could presumably test this by metering with and without the filter, and see if the difference is about that of the filter factor. The filter factor will of course depend on the colour temperature of the light, and be less at dawn/sunset and more in the shade. Speaking of which, if in shade, the skylight is blue and a red/orange filter will have more effect on the shadows.

Apologies - I assume you know all this anyway - but others might not.
 
Thank you for that Stephen.

StephenM said:
I assume you know all this anyway
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You assume too much! :)

I'm sort of aware of it but never thought about it much because when I use an orange filter with my Nikons it just works as I expect.

Clearly, I'll need to think about it with the Olympus.

Thanks again for the information.
 
Nikon F3,Nikkor 55mm lens and 200Asa slide film.

 
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Can't get enough of Martpix's underground pics.

Subject matter is so interesting, a world you rarely see but they are also superbly executed.

Top stuff.
 
desf said:
Can't get enough of Martpix's underground pics.

Subject matter is so interesting, a world you rarely see but they are also superbly executed.

Top stuff.
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Same here - lots of times he's shown a bit of kit and I've found myself thinking "of course, they would need one of those", but it would never have occurred to me beforehand :)
 
desf said:
Can't get enough of Martpix's underground pics.

Subject matter is so interesting, a world you rarely see but they are also superbly executed.

Top stuff.
Click to expand...
Cuchulainn said:
Same here - lots of times he's shown a bit of kit and I've found myself thinking "of course, they would need one of those", but it would never have occurred to me beforehand :)
Click to expand...

Thank you both for your kind words and I'm glad you're enjoying the images:)
 
joxby said:
How are you getting on with the Fuji, Ash ?
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i like it a lot with a couple of buts. The only downsides i have with it are it has quite a lot of vignetting, but that's easily sorted out in PP and, to a larger degree for me anyway, i dont really like its automatic nature. It has a manual mode but its so fiddly to use i just leave it in aperture priority and its a point and shoot. I did a review of it in the large gear review thread, wherever thats gone these days :) its nice and you get good results but i am thinking of trading it in against one of the versions with just a prime lens.
 
Yeah, I'm not sure how useful the zoom is being that it has such a short range, it looks like it overs useful lengths but I suppose there will have been compromises made in its design and function, with that in mind I'd probably go for a prime too.
App priority works just fine for me, I can use exposure compensation if I have to, I don't ever shoot the 6 fully manually unless its a bulb shot, never come across a circumstance when I needed to.
I've been looking at a 645S with a 60mm lens, there seems to be some odd caveats with most of the range, like the limitations on shutter speed at certain apps.
But I just find RF's so much more convenient to carry and shoot, a fixed lens is even better, with that and the stellar performance of the EBC's, Fuji's take a bit of beating.
 
I can definitely recommend the Ga645. It's got fantastic image quality, but is definitely best thought of as a medium format point and shoot.
 
I have the GS645W with the 45mm lens.

It's my goto walkabout film camera. Not a rangefinder, it's kind of a zone focus using the DoF markers.
Metered with three LEDs ( - o + ), 1 to 1/500 and F5.6 to F22. All around the lens.
Big bright viewfinder with a frame line.
 
The GA645 is the sharpest medium format camera I've used. The camera is very lightweight but looks a bit like a Tonka Toy! AF is reasonably fast but more at the calm portrait end than fast action. The reason I sold it was because it was too automatic in the end but if you want a point and shoot it's perfect.
 
Even when my GA645 did work, which wasn't often, I found that I had more out-of-focus photographs than I did with my other cameras, which are all manual focus. As much as I liked the lens on it, I was delighted to get rid of that camera.
 
I'm really liking my Ga645.

As already mentioned, it really is a big point and shoot.

However, I do tend to use it in manual focus, aperture priority mode.

I don't have any issues using it that way.

The only 'issue' I have is that I don't tend to use it as much as I should/would like to, when compared to my Leica. Which is a shame.

I suppose I may have to seriously think about putting it up for sale, but would no doubt regret it :(
 
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