Looking good Woodsy my man, very nice indeed.
I'm very tempted by a little 5x4 up for sale at Vintage Classic Cameras. Its called 'The British and has a Wray 5 x 5,4 lens and DD slide and new bellows but I don't know if I would be gaining that much over my Mamiya C330 and I'm maybe just thinking of buying it because I have the money.
Would you say that the difference is that noticeable? Can I assume that when printed the difference in quality is much more obvious than with the scans on here (good as they are)? What are the advantages and disadvantages of 5x4?
Sorry for all the questions but I'm a bit torn at the moment as to what to do.
Cheers
Andy
So, in my experience, 5x4 is a world apart from MF. First and foremost it takes a long time to set up the camera compared to MF. Focusing ideally needs a loupe. A loupe is essential if you want to start using movements such as tilt and what not. I'd say the movements alone make LF worth the move.
Straight away, over MF, you get ~4 times the film surface area compared to 6x6 format MF (I can't remember the exact value, but it's around there). When scanned and stuffed on the net, this basically makes no difference what so ever. The argument of tonal separation when reduced to a web res of ~800 x whatever is basically void. The advantage comes when viewing larger and when printing. To put it into context, I printed a B&W LF frame from a digital scan at 2400 DPI - about the realistic limit of the V700 - at 40x60 inches. I printed at native res at 200 DPI. To do this from MF and given the approximate film area difference, to print at the same size without upscaling the resolution, you'd be limited to 100 DPI. Still good, but pushing close to the generally accepted limit of 72 DPI. Up-ing the resolution in photoshop is perfectly fine, but ultimately degrades the fine detail. No matter what anyone says, interpolation degrades quality, even if photoshop is very good at it these days. I'm being pedantic here, of course.
Printing in the darkroom requires a considerably more expensive enlarger than when enlarging from MF frames. Enlargers like the DeVere 504 are much more expensive than other "up to and including MF" spec'd enlargers.
Film is more expensive, and by quite a margine. A roll of Acros might cost you £3-4? This gets you 12 frames on 6x6 format MF. Acros is £1.50 per frame on LF. Colour is even worse. Developing is also about an order of magnitude more expensive (on a per frame basis) when getting it done commercially. Just look at peak-imaging prices. If you want to shoot B&W on LF, you can home dev, cutting cost massively.
Other aspects include reduced number of frames you can take with you, as you either need a dark bag to change film in the field, or carry more film holders. Generally, one film holder holds 2 frames and after 5-6 of these, it starts to get heavy.
Lenses for LF are the sharpest you'll experience. My Nikon 150mm F/5.6 can resolve small windows on a building 2.5 KM away from the camera when focused well and with appropriate aperture values.
Mistakes are more common on LF as there is no redundency / safety measures apart from on the shutter (it wont fire on some lenses if the shutter is open / in preview mode) - Doesn't stop you removing the dark slide too early however. Be prepared for many mistakes if one is not concentrating.
You'll need a light meter. Don't spend all this time, effort and money on the film + camera and use a digital camera as a light meter. They use integrating meters and often get it completely wrong. A proper hand held light meter measures light intensity, not light intensity across three colour channels and averages, and so you are much less likely to blow a "colour channel" on the film if using colour film. Also, the sensors in these light meters are usually calibrated and are as such normalised across the visible spectrum. They also promote the easier use of the zone system - Something you'll definitely need if shooting slide, but will probably want to use anyway when shooting any type of film.
All in all... is it worth it? Would I go the same way given the choice again? Abso-sodding-lutely. I love LF. It has been exactly what I needed in photography. The pace, the results of a good frame, the process of setting up the camera, everything. The only way I'd ever go back to MF is if sheet film ceased being made, and even then I'd probably use a roll film adapter on the LF body. It is not for the feint hearted, and requires patience by the bucket load. But for me, all of the image quality advantages, including camera movements, tonal graduation and overall resolution of the final files and optically for the lenses make it all worth it. I've never looked back

HTH!