"Panasonic G series" Owners Thread

[vintageman]

I think (and I may be wrong) but the proper way to compare the difference would be to have both images sized to fill an A2 "canvas" by setting the appropriate pixels per inch then cropping to show the same part of the image for comparison.

 

[Sangoma]

If you are not cropping, the standard 20MP image would give you about 9 pixels per mm or about 225 DPI.
The high resolution image would give about double. (all approx, as it would depend a bit on whether you printed to the long side or short side)

Unless you looked very closely or with a magnifying glass, you probably wouldn't see much difference.

The difference may not even show depending on things like the lens, atmospherics, how rock solid the camera was mounted, printer etc.

With perfect conditions, the high res mode would allow you to print 1/4 of the area of the original to the same standard as the whole frame of a 20MP shot.

On the screen it would only be obvious if you enlarged a particular portion until you started to lose detail, then looked at the same portion at the same screen size on the hi res shot.
Alternatively choose a section of a 100% crop on the hi res version, then make the same section the same size on the screen from the 20MP shot, and theoretically you should see a difference.

Whether it will improve an A2 print, viewed from a distance where you can see the whole image is probably questionable, even if every stage and component of the operation is perfect.

And even if it did, it won't make a poor shot look good, the photographers skills and talent will have a far greater effect on the "look" of the print

 

[AndrewFlannigan]

Looking through my old files: a Buccaneer shipborn bomber at the Yorkshire Aircraft Museum (G9 / Leica 100~400mm)...

 

[realspeed]

Panasonic Lumix DC-G9: contains a 20.3 Mpixel sensor. The High Resolution Mode takes a sequence of 8 shots in quick succession between which the sensor is shifted by 0.5 pixel for each image. These are subsequently merged into an 80 Mpixel image.

 

[Crotal Bell]

If you are not cropping, the standard 20MP image would give you about 9 pixels per mm or about 225 DPI.
The high resolution image would give about double. (all approx, as it would depend a bit on whether you printed to the long side or short side)

Unless you looked very closely or with a magnifying glass, you probably wouldn't see much difference.

The difference may not even show depending on things like the lens, atmospherics, how rock solid the camera was mounted, printer etc.

With perfect conditions, the high res mode would allow you to print 1/4 of the area of the original to the same standard as the whole frame of a 20MP shot.

On the screen it would only be obvious if you enlarged a particular portion until you started to lose detail, then looked at the same portion at the same screen size on the hi res shot.
Alternatively choose a section of a 100% crop on the hi res version, then make the same section the same size on the screen from the 20MP shot, and theoretically you should see a difference.

Whether it will improve an A2 print, viewed from a distance where you can see the whole image is probably questionable, even if every stage and component of the operation is perfect.

And even if it did, it won't make a poor shot look good, the photographers skills and talent will have a far greater effect on the "look" of the print

Yes I understand that a poor shot is a poor shot and I am not trying to make something bad look good by using the high resolution. There is a local private hospital that want images from people in the area to use in A2 size as part of their redecoration for the hallways and rooms.

I figured if I took some local scenic shots it would make more sense to use high resolution mode and then if I size them to the dimensions of A2 on my laptop, they will have enough detail to be enlarged to full A2 by whoever is going to do the printing and framing?

 

[woof woof]

Some big prints look lovely when seen from a reasonable viewing distance but not when viewed up close so I think viewing distance and expectations are worth thinking about. A2 is pretty big, are people really going to stand so close that they'll be able to see a lack of detail?

This brings me back years to when I produced artwork for stage. At first I produced wonderfully detailed pictures but I quickly realised that the artwork had to look good not from just in front of the end of my nose distance but from audience distance. What would the audience expect to see? That was a wake up call to me and I think it's worth at least considering when talking about photography and photographs.

I think it'll possibly be worth thinking about what subjects and compositions will look good from where people will see them.

 

[Crotal Bell]

Some big prints look lovely when seen from a reasonable viewing distance but not when viewed up close so I think viewing distance and expectations are worth thinking about. A2 is pretty big, are people really going to stand so close that they'll be able to see a lack of detail?

This brings me back years to when I produced artwork for stage. At first I produced wonderfully detailed pictures but I quickly realised that the artwork had to look good not from just in front of the end of my nose distance but from audience distance. What would the audience expect to see? That was a wake up call to me and I think it's worth at least considering when talking about photography and photographs.

I think it'll possibly be worth thinking about what subjects and compositions will look good from where people will see them.

So the A2 prints will be on the wall of peoples rooms at the hospital, so viewing will be across the private rooms and on side walls, so not close. Probably no different to having an A2 print on a medium size second bedroom in an average home. Possibly a few for the hallways too.

I'm out of my depth here, well and truly. Next you'll be saying the 16MP Pana G80 would make the best job

 

[woof woof]

I'm out of my depth here, well and truly. Next you'll be saying the 16MP Pana G80 would make the best job

No but I don't think I'd obsess too much over this as you have a good camera and the ability to produce 80mb files which may well look very nice. I think the main thing to think about could well be what subject, composition and framing will look good and be appreciated by the people in the hospital.

Oh and by the way, well done for doing this. Bringing a little joy to people in hospital is a lovely thing to be involved in. Well done

 

[Crotal Bell]

No but I don't think I'd obsess too much over this as you have a good camera and the ability to produce 80mb files which may well look very nice. I think the main thing to think about could well be what subject, composition and framing will look good and be appreciated by the people in the hospital.

Oh and by the way, well done for doing this. Bringing a little joy to people in hospital is a lovely thing to be involved in. Well done

Thank you
I'm looking at taking local country scenes and maybe some river shots, possibly some old churches and buildings.
One of the criteria is photos of Bedfordshire.

 

[Cockney]

Not G series ( sorry), but after realising how awesome the Intelligent Auto is when travelling with the DC TZ90, I really have to try it more on my G80.

There, I've said it.

 

[AndrewFlannigan]

I do like rain drops on a window pane (G9 / 100-400mm Leica lens)

 

[woof woof]

Just in case people haven't seen this...

https://www.dpreview.com/articles/5719376425/on-this-day-2008-worlds-first-mirrorless-camera?utm_source=self-desktop&utm_medium=marquee&utm_campaign=traffic_source

My G1 was one of my favourite cameras. It fitted my hand just perfectly. The only issues I had with it were the EVF which I found very uncomfortable in low light and the relatively limited max ISO. I took a lot of pictures with that camera.

G1 and an old film era manual lens, possibly a 50mm. 1/60, ISO 200. Frosty Day. 13/12/2012.

 

[Crotal Bell]

Just in case people haven't seen this...

https://www.dpreview.com/articles/5719376425/on-this-day-2008-worlds-first-mirrorless-camera?utm_source=self-desktop&utm_medium=marquee&utm_campaign=traffic_source

My G1 was one of my favourite cameras. It fitted my hand just perfectly. The only issues I had with it were the EVF which I found very uncomfortable in low light and the relatively limited max ISO. I took a lot of pictures with that camera.

G1 and an old film era manual lens, possibly a 50mm. 1/60, ISO 200. Frosty Day. 13/12/2012.

View attachment 433795

Very nice, looks a lot like the path by the river I often walk.

 

[AndrewFlannigan]

Just in case people haven't seen this...

My first M43 camera was an Olympus, the E-P1 with a17mm. It was an interesting bit of kit but I didn't bond with it. The Panasonic G2 was a whole different kettle of fish and I used a pair for several years.

 

[woof woof]

Very nice, looks a lot like the path by the river I often walk.

It's just yards from home and I was there today picking brambles and bramble leaves I think its official name is "The Black Path" but some of the original residents, like me, call it "The Lines" as it's actually the path of a long abandoned railway track. I remember when the trains still ran. The council have cut the trees and bushes back and paved it but despite their vandalism I still love it

 

[wilki]

It's just yards from home and I was there today picking brambles and bramble leaves I think its official name is "The Black Path" but some of the original residents, like me, call it "The Lines" as it's actually the path of a long abandoned railway track. I remember when the trains still ran. The council have cut the trees and bushes back and paved it but despite their vandalism I still love it

Is that the old line which ran alongside Smith's Dock Park, acoss the bridge over Ormesby Road, across Flatts Lane and on to Eston station and also the old brickworks? I remember trains running on it too. I lived on Normanby Road, Ormesby in those days.

 

[woof woof]

Is that the old line which ran alongside Smith's Dock Park, acoss the bridge over Ormesby Road, across Flatts Lane and on to Eston station and also the old brickworks? I remember trains running on it too. I lived on Normanby Road, Ormesby in those days.

Yup.

I'm a bit young to remember the trains and it's possible I never saw them but I remember the sort of tooting sound they made. In those days the local farmer used to walk his cows down the road twice a day. That was nice but a bit frightening for a little one. Happy Days.

 

[wilki]

Yup.

I'm a bit young to remember the trains and it's possible I never saw them but I remember the sort of tooting sound they made. In those days the local farmer used to walk his cows down the road twice a day. That was nice but a bit frightening for a little one. Happy Days.

The trains I occasionally saw were going to the brickworks, This would be during the late 1950's. Early 60's. Eston station was closed by then but the goods depot was in use until 1966.

 

[woof woof]

My memories are from 64 onwards. As I said, Happy days.

 

[Cockney]

Not really G series but same family, so please excuse me.
My TZ90 has thrown a bit of a wobbly.
When using the rotary function on the rear selector wheel it goes a bit haywire and skips about. Clicking the options for functions like MF, drive options etc its fine.
I can use the touch screen for menus and the lens ring for Aperture etc so no biggy.

Any thoughts on price for repair, or do I live with it or treat myself to new?
Is it a common lumix thing?

 

[AndrewFlannigan]

Out for a walk this evening...

Handheld G9 in iA mode / 100-400mm Leica at full zoom,,,

 

[Crotal Bell]

A few months back, the screw thread wore out on the 100-400mm lens hood. I added some tape to the outer of the smaller fixed one so it would attach firm, but it was a faff and so decided to try photography without it.

I haven't noticed a difference, been out for months in all light conditions just using the smaller fixed hood and it's done the job fine. As a bonus I can fit the G80 with 12-60mm at the end of the bag with a divider, and the G9 with 100-400mm is ready to go without needing to keep fixing the big hood.

Can't see me buying a new screw on hood now, they're not cheap and my photos are coming out fine.

 

[woof woof]

Can't see me buying a new screw on hood now, they're not cheap and my photos are coming out fine.

Original hoods can be expensive so it makes sense to shop around and if you're happy now and there are no issues it's time to decide what you're going to spend the money you've saved on Free Money and good Man Maths

 

[Crotal Bell]

Original hoods can be expensive so it makes sense to shop around and if you're happy now and there are no issues it's time to decide what you're going to spend the money you've saved on Free Money and good Man Maths

I was thinking about ND filter for 12-60mm, but to be honest I'm not really interested in long exposure work so it would probably just gather dust.

 

[Plain Nev]

Out for a walk this evening...

Handheld G9 in iA mode / 100-400mm Leica at full zoom,,,

View attachment 434080

That's impressive.

 

[Crotal Bell]

Been to a couple of nature reserves lately with nice birds but hard to get close enough, so thinking of getting a teleconverter for the G9 and 100-400mm lens and get more reach. Anyone recommend one that works well on this rig ?

 

[Sangoma]

Been to a couple of nature reserves lately with nice birds but hard to get close enough, so thinking of getting a teleconverter for the G9 and 100-400mm lens and get more reach. Anyone recommend one that works well on this rig ?

I would be interested to know if you find one, I don't think there is one.
The Panasonic one doesn't work with the 100-400 or the 100-300 (physically it might, but I'm told it is blocked in firmware because of focusing issues.)

 

[Malfis]

Been to a couple of nature reserves lately with nice birds but hard to get close enough, so thinking of getting a teleconverter for the G9 and 100-400mm lens and get more reach. Anyone recommend one that works well on this rig ?

The Pan Leica 100-400mm mark ii accepts the Panasonic teleconverter. Would involve spending quite a lot more money, though.

 

[Crotal Bell]

I would be interested to know if you find one, I don't think there is one.
The Panasonic one doesn't work with the 100-400 or the 100-300 (physically it might, but I'm told it is blocked in firmware because of focusing issues.)

The Pan Leica 100-400mm mark ii accepts the Panasonic teleconverter. Would involve spending quite a lot more money, though.

Thanks folks, well that rules out that idea then.

 

[Petey]

Random question… any GX8 owners on this thread? Seen one that I thought might be worth a gamble on as I like the rangefinder style with weather sealing and I doubt another will come out and I’m wondering if shutter shock is as big a deal as I’ve heard from other places? Any particular lenses to avoid? Does it go to electronic shutter automatically on the latest firmware no matter which lens you’re using at various shutter speeds? This is the only thing putting me off buying this camera. Is there anything else to be wary of?

 

[woof woof]

I had the GX7 and also the G7 and went through shutter shock and now have the GX80 and GX9 and I'd recommend these later cameras with the redesigned shutter mechanism.

Shutter shock can be avoided by using the electronic shutter but there are two potential issues, one is rolling shutter effect and the second is banding under flickering lighting. It's this second issue that afflicted me as when shooting under flickering lighting you risk banding with the electronic shutter and if you switch to the mechanical shutter you'll probably be smack in the affected shutter speed range for shutter shock thus rendering the camera effectively unusable. All this assumes that you have a shutter shock affected lens and if you don't you'll be fine but really, why bother with al this? IMO life is to short for all this and the thing to do is forget about the older shutter shock afflicted bodies and buy a camera with the redesigned shutter and then you just don't have to worry about it and can use whatever lenses you want.

With the shutter there'll probably be three settings, electronic shutter, mechanical shutter and auto. At least that's what my cameras have. Mine will switch between mechanical and electronic automatically when set to auto but only to increase the shutter speed.

 

[Sangoma]

Random question… any GX8 owners on this thread? Seen one that I thought might be worth a gamble on as I like the rangefinder style with weather sealing and I doubt another will come out and I’m wondering if shutter shock is as big a deal as I’ve heard from other places? Any particular lenses to avoid? Does it go to electronic shutter automatically on the latest firmware no matter which lens you’re using at various shutter speeds? This is the only thing putting me off buying this camera. Is there anything else to be wary of?

I had a G7, and I still have a GX7, never had a problem with shutter shock.

All depends on your use.

I also have a GX9, and would agree it is a better buy though, and I liked the feel of it compared to the GX8, though it is not weather sealed

 

[woof woof]

Steve, I think it's important to be clear here for people thinking of buying into this system with models known to be affected by shutter shock as shutter shock is a real consequence of the shutter and lens design and not something that affects some samples of camera and lens models and not others. It's not as if some GX8's are affected and some are not, they all are as they all have the same shutter. Some camera models are affected such as the GX8, GX7, G7 etc and others like the GX80 and GX9 are not. Some lenses are affected and some are not.

I've stated clearly what the issue was for me, shooting under flickering lights when the electronic shutter was not useable, and if you can state clearly why shutter shock was not an issue for you that may help Petey. It could be that you used unaffected lens models or used the electronic shutter all the time and never shot under flickering lighting. Whatever the reason. It may help others.

As above I'd advise avoiding affected cameras as even if you start out with for example a GX8 and an unaffected lens and are happy you are going to need to be careful if buying another lens or just use the electronic shutter all the time and live with the limitations and consequences that brings.

 

[AndrewFlannigan]

I had a G7, and I still have a GX7, never had a problem with shutter shock.

Me neither, although it has been suggested that I'm a liar or a fool.

I find it best to ignore such posts when their idee fixe is showing.

 

[Cockney]

Me neither, although it has been suggested that I'm a liar or a fool.

I find it best to ignore such posts when their idee fixe is showing.

Me neither.

 

[woof woof]

Me neither, although it has been suggested that I'm a liar or a fool.

I find it best to ignore such posts when their idee fixe is showing.

Well there you are.

This is a real thing which had an engineering fix and whilst I can understand how some who have affected kit might never see the effect because they just don't see it or because they never shoot in conditions in which shutter shock or the electronic shutter issues would be visible I have zero time for flat earth deniers and fanboys who refuse to admit to the existence of a problem which was accepted by Panasonic who redesigned the shutter to reduce shutter shock. These are the people to ignore as they'll cost you time, money and upset.

I think that before people spend their hard earned they deserve to be honestly and impartially informed so that they can then make their own decision.

Petey. You know that shutter shock can be an issue if you have an affected camera and lens combination and you should know that the electronic shutter is not a fix in every single scenario.

Good luck choosing.

 

[woof woof]

You are unique Andrew, thank God.

 

[Cockney]

Well I reiterate, I've never noticed it, as I said.
Although I now wish I hadn't bothered.

 

[Petey]

Thanks for the input all. The last thing I meant was to stir a debate. It’s a shame the gx9 isn’t weather sealed as I do like to shoot at beaches where that comes in handy. I do like rangefinder styled cameras, but for a similar price on the secondhand market, I could get an Olympus e-m5 iii which I think might be the direction I’m going instead of the gx9. Another alternative could be the Panasonic G90. It would be nice to compare a G90 to e-m5iii in hand for size comparison.

 

[AndrewFlannigan]

The last thing I meant was to stir a debate.

No debate, just someone who doesn't understand that different people have different experiences.

Personally, I've yet to come across any Micro Four Thirds camera that's problematic, neither Olympus nor Panasonic. In fact, after trying about a dozen, their only fault is that they're boringly reliable!