Olympus OM-D E-M5, E-M1, E-M10 - Mk1, Mk2 & Mk3 Owners Thread

holty said:
hi guys
been looking online at om-d e-m1 mark 2 just out of curiosity
whats the story with it if its a 4 thirds sensor what size is that ?
whats the magnification with the lens's is it 1.5x like on my d500 or what
I've never looked at anything other than a dx or ff camera before
all this micro thirds -- four thirds is a bit confusing to me
can someone give me an explanation to it all
whats the lens range like ? are they expensive ?
thanks
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The crop factor is 2 x so a 300mm lens gives you 600mm effective reach over a full frame sensor .. the lenses tend to be smaller ,lighter and cheaper than than other brands . Although the sensors are smaller in the modern cameras there seems to be very little in the way of noise .. Olympus and Panasonic bodies and lenses are interchangeable and will usually work on either brand .. most MFT bodies have built in 4 or 5 stage in body stabilisation ibis .. and with adaptors will work well with legacy glass .. the only down side is the menu system terminology takes a fair degree of of figuring out .
 
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I had another day at The Hawk Conservancy yesterday with my Em1ii and 40-150 - with extender at times. I decided to try Pro Capture again and was really impressed. I have tried it before and ended up with too many pictures and didn't feel quite in control. This time I set it to Lo.

1st is straight out of camera (raw converted to jpeg - ISO2000) and 2nd one is processed. Neither great photos, but I just wanted to demonstrate how even with very messy backgrounds and in dull light, it managed to focus.

190907161108-BC078393.jpg190907114158-BC077276.jpg
 
Bebop said:
I had another day at The Hawk Conservancy yesterday with my Em1ii and 40-150 - with extender at times. I decided to try Pro Capture again and was really impressed. I have tried it before and ended up with too many pictures and didn't feel quite in control. This time I set it to Lo.

1st is straight out of camera (raw converted to jpeg - ISO2000) and 2nd one is processed. Neither great photos, but I just wanted to demonstrate how even with very messy backgrounds and in dull light, it managed to focus.

View attachment 254651View attachment 254652
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Nice use of pro-capture, i think i used to set it on low with about 6 frames before and 6 frames after release, i found that gave me a good hit rate without too many files to sort.

An example from the same lens as you with the 1.4

p6130092_42772256801_o.jpg

If you use it on a butterfly and press as they leave the flower they often fly backwards, it then looks like you caught them landing.

p7190255_43457762482_o.jpg

p7190139_43457762452_o.jpg
 
Think I have a problem with my charger on the 1mk11, some times after the constant green light to show charged it changes to a flashing green light, last night it didn't do that it just stayed constant green. I put it in my camera and it showed 100% then this morning only 69%, it says two hours for a charge ime lucky if it does a 50% top-up in that time.

Capture.JPG
 
Bebop said:
I had another day at The Hawk Conservancy yesterday with my Em1ii and 40-150 - with extender at times. I decided to try Pro Capture again and was really impressed. I have tried it before and ended up with too many pictures and didn't feel quite in control. This time I set it to Lo.

1st is straight out of camera (raw converted to jpeg - ISO2000) and 2nd one is processed. Neither great photos, but I just wanted to demonstrate how even with very messy backgrounds and in dull light, it managed to focus.

View attachment 254651View attachment 254652
Click to expand...
nice couple of shots especially with that messy background , I'm presuming this is the 40-150 2.8 pro lens , been hovering on buying one all week but don't know if there's enough range for what I do really .. these are swaying me though
 
Not my usual subject but there was a classic car event at the same time as junior parkrun today; how do people deal with the reflections from the sun on the metal - would a polariser take care of it? Having none to hand I underexposed and then used the sliders in Lightroom to bring up the shadows and tame the highlights.

E-M1II + Oly 12-40 f/2.8 @ f/5.6:

20190908_094735_057 by Maarten D'Haese, on Flickr
 
holty said:
hi guys
been looking online at om-d e-m1 mark 2 just out of curiosity
whats the story with it if its a 4 thirds sensor what size is that ?
whats the magnification with the lens's is it 1.5x like on my d500 or what
I've never looked at anything other than a dx or ff camera before
all this micro thirds -- four thirds is a bit confusing to me
can someone give me an explanation to it all
whats the lens range like ? are they expensive ?
thanks
Click to expand...

As other people have pointed out the crop factor is 2X.

Olympus PRO lenses are not cheap but in my experience the optics are second to none and if you compare equivalent focal lengths you will probably find that they are very good value. E.g. the Oly 40-150mm f/2.8 with a 1.4X TC is £1,049 on Camerapricebuster today, versus the Canon 70-200mm F/2.8II which is £1,599 on Camerapricebuster. The Olympus lens has a 80-300mm "field of view" versus the 70-200mm "field of view" on the Canon.

The smaller m4/3 sensor has a theoretical disadvantage of having less DR, more noise at higher ISO's and less shallow DoF at the same f/stop compared to FF, but for most real-life shooting this doesn't appear to matter too much, but YMMV.

Micro 4/3 format is an evolution of the original 4/3 format. Both formats have the same sensor size, but m4/3 is a standardised lens mount for mirrorless bodies whereas the original 4/3 mount was a standardised mount for DSLR bodies. You can mount 4/3 lenses on m4/3 bodies via an adapter but the resulting AF performance appears to be variable.
 
maarten.dhaese said:
You can mount 4/3 lenses on m4/3 bodies via an adapter but the resulting AF performance appears to be variable.
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do I read this correctly if using a adaptor you will retain A/F on the 4/3 lenses ????
 
the black fox said:
do I read this correctly if using a adaptor you will retain A/F on the 4/3 lenses ????
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Yup, really only works well with the higher end bodies that have some phase detect, like the em1mkII - on more budget bodies the AF will be terrible, better off manually focusing.
 
About the whole 'micro' thing ...


Bit long winded, but he makes some good points. It's about how the system is perceived, and why the 'micro' in the name doesn't help, rather than any actual issues with the system itself
 
Does anyone use the lens image stabilising when over 300mm with the Pan. 100-400?
 
No 4/3 is the old DSLR format M4/3 is mirrorless based on the 4/3
 
holty said:
thanks for the replies to my question
is mft the same as 4/3 ?
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MFT is M4/3, 4/3 is the older dslr/mirrored version of it. You can't use 4/3 lenses directly on an M43 body without an adapter. Basically, M43 is the mirrorless version of 4/3
 
Been tempted by an Olympus body for a while now espically for the IBIS. I know high iso noise to a lot of extent is in the eye of the beholder, but what is it people's opinion of it on the latest 20mp sensor's?
 
yamahatdm900 said:
Been tempted by an Olympus body for a while now espically for the IBIS. I know high iso noise to a lot of extent is in the eye of the beholder, but what is it people's opinion of it on the latest 20mp sensor's?
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Posted this one page back ISO4000 its not bad so long as its correctly exposed, EM1MK11

P9050007 by electric.mike, on Flickr
 
the black fox said:
do I read this correctly if using a adaptor you will retain A/F on the 4/3 lenses ????
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Yes if you are using the E-M1MkI or MkII or the E-M1X.

However before you go down this road read up about the experiences of people who have tried this.

By all accounts there are some stunning lenses in the Olympus 4/3 line-up, however when driven through an adapter on m4/3 AF performance doesn't appear as sure-footed as native m4/3.
 
dcash29 said:
I ask because I read that using the lens IS when over 300mm was better than using the Olympus body IS?
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With the 100-400 i only use the lens is.
 
just bit the bullet , got one of them 45mm 1.8 lenses with a lens hood for a bite yer arm off price . think it was only listed this morning :p
 
yamahatdm900 said:
Thanks for that, they look more than ok. Sometimes its hard to judge from shots posted on the net so I take you happy at 6400?
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Well I wouldn't use it out of choice :D sometimes i have no choice though, i never use NR on the subject but at the higher ISOs i do on the backgrounds.
 
mikew said:
Well I wouldn't use it out of choice :D sometimes i have no choice though, i never use NR on the subject but at the higher ISOs i do on the backgrounds.
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as I do ,its the norm for wildlife due to having to crop virtually every pic
 
jono2002 said:
Great colours, really nice green.
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To some there probably over saturated ,but I like my photos that way ,it’s a personal thing thanks for the comment
 
So first go with the EM1mkII today.

Started off struggling with the AF, but played around with the AF modes and seemed to solve is. Feeling with the AF is that it is night and day difference compared to the EM5mkII - for anyone thinking of changing it really is hugely different for things like birds in flights etc.

Spent quite a while trying to work out best settings etc and whilst I still don't understand some of the AF options etc, most important things seem very easy to change. Changing the number of AF focus points is also now very easy with a dedicated button for this.

The pro-capture I think will be amazing in some situations -but trying it out does leave you with around 1 billion photos....

The above 2 things were my main reasons for upgrading and I think on first impressions I'm going to be very happy - still lots of learning and practice to do, and I know it's not set-up right yet, but far less frustrated than when trying to get BIF with the EM5.

These are not great, but pretty sure this was down to me, but I would not have got near to most of these with the EM5

OI000260 by alligator1975, on Flickr

OI000281 by alligator1975, on Flickr

Will try and test again more fully but first impressions are a significant improvement for anything moving.
 
akr said:
So first go with the EM1mkII today.

Started off struggling with the AF, but played around with the AF modes and seemed to solve is. Feeling with the AF is that it is night and day difference compared to the EM5mkII - for anyone thinking of changing it really is hugely different for things like birds in flights etc.

Spent quite a while trying to work out best settings etc and whilst I still don't understand some of the AF options etc, most important things seem very easy to change. Changing the number of AF focus points is also now very easy with a dedicated button for this.

The pro-capture I think will be amazing in some situations -but trying it out does leave you with around 1 billion photos....

The above 2 things were my main reasons for upgrading and I think on first impressions I'm going to be very happy - still lots of learning and practice to do, and I know it's not set-up right yet, but far less frustrated than when trying to get BIF with the EM5.

These are not great, but pretty sure this was down to me, but I would not have got near to most of these with the EM5

OI000260 by alligator1975, on Flickr

OI000281 by alligator1975, on Flickr

Will try and test again more fully but first impressions are a significant improvement for anything moving.
Click to expand...

I'm interested to know what settings you eventually found to be most successful for BIF.
 
Malfis said:
I'm interested to know what settings you eventually found to be most successful for BIF.
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No problem, will let you know what I find works for me. In terms of AF points, I think most people in this thread suggest using 9 points, but I found the 25 point (I think it's 25) worked fairly well. I used CAF (without tracking) and that also seems to work well but all these things I need more practise to compare. I'll head to my local Sainsbury's car park when I can as there are lots of birds there (and sometimes as a result a Peregrine Falcon). Anyway will play around, an with some of the other AF settings and see what works.
 
Finding either single point or five the best for general purpose work , if you have a clear sky then multi point is fine all with c.a.f . Depending on lens keep shutter speed as high as possible .. finding that once focus is locked on something it’s hard to lose it ... tending to keep burst rate to 10 FPS most of the time .. understanding it more day by day
 
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akr said:
So first go with the EM1mkII today.

Started off struggling with the AF, but played around with the AF modes and seemed to solve is. Feeling with the AF is that it is night and day difference compared to the EM5mkII - for anyone thinking of changing it really is hugely different for things like birds in flights etc.

Spent quite a while trying to work out best settings etc and whilst I still don't understand some of the AF options etc, most important things seem very easy to change. Changing the number of AF focus points is also now very easy with a dedicated button for this.

The pro-capture I think will be amazing in some situations -but trying it out does leave you with around 1 billion photos....

The above 2 things were my main reasons for upgrading and I think on first impressions I'm going to be very happy - still lots of learning and practice to do, and I know it's not set-up right yet, but far less frustrated than when trying to get BIF with the EM5.

These are not great, but pretty sure this was down to me, but I would not have got near to most of these with the EM5

OI000260 by alligator1975, on Flickr

OI000281 by alligator1975, on Flickr

Will try and test again more fully but first impressions are a significant improvement for anything moving.
Click to expand...

For most shots using pro-capture remember to set a fairly low number of shots for both before and after pressing the shutter, how many before depends on your reaction speed.
 
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