Olympus OM-D E-M5, E-M1, E-M10 - Mk1, Mk2 & Mk3 Owners Thread

the black fox said:
all the practising over the last couple of weeks paid off today , when the kingfisher put in a hour long performance for me .. dark shaded woodland pool . cloudy daylight hence high i.s.o shots but I walked away with a big smirk on my face and 500 + shots to go through .. with very few discards
love it when a plan falls into place by jeff and jan cohen, on Flickr
jump for joy by jeff and jan cohen, on Flickr
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Bloody FAB. I’d be very happy to have taken those.
 
the black fox said:
all the practising over the last couple of weeks paid off today , when the kingfisher put in a hour long performance for me .. dark shaded woodland pool . cloudy daylight hence high i.s.o shots but I walked away with a big smirk on my face and 500 + shots to go through .. with very few discards
love it when a plan falls into place by jeff and jan cohen, on Flickr
jump for joy by jeff and jan cohen, on Flickr
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Why are you wasting your time with that crappy m4/3 you should get a proper camera ;):exit:

Fantastic set you have made it work with those
 
the black fox said:
I just make sure I have enough shutter speed for a sharp shot and let auto i.s.o do the rest ..
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Likewise. As you've proved the m4/3 can provide great shots at 6400iso, and I too have shots that I'm happy with that were shot at 6400 ISO.
 
snerkler said:
Likewise. As you've proved the m4/3 can provide great shots at 6400iso, and I too have shots that I'm happy with that were shot at 6400 ISO.
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never listen to the other brands fan boys , just take the shots and prove them wrong
 
here we go again ,just been out for a nice meal with the wife .. so starting going through a few more shots .. here's one to whet your appetite .. please remember this is a totally wild bird and not taken from a baited or preset position so im more than pleased with it .. a bit soft but imho that makes it .. the camera was set in pinpoint focus mode to
the risen by jeff and jan cohen, on Flickr
 
My wife's E-M10 MkI failed last week while we were away with the message "Please check the status of a lens". Am I correct to assume this just the lens gone kaput, since the 40-150 we have still works fine?

Thanks guys.
 
ancient_mariner said:
My wife's E-M10 MkI failed last week while we were away with the message "Please check the status of a lens". Am I correct to assume this just the lens gone kaput, since the 40-150 we have still works fine?

Thanks guys.
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What's the lens giving the error message? Some lenses (such as the Panasonic 12-32) need to be extended before the camera will recognise them. If that is not the problem it's indeed likely to be problem with the lens. You could try cleaning the lens contacts to see if that does anything to help.
 
maarten.dhaese said:
What's the lens giving the error message? Some lenses (such as the Panasonic 12-32) need to be extended before the camera will recognise them. If that is not the problem it's indeed likely to be problem with the lens. You could try cleaning the lens contacts to see if that does anything to help.
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Thanks Maarten, it's the 14-42 EZ pancake lens. Contacts look pretty good TBH, but I'll give that a go.
 
Almost certainly not the case here, but I’ve had that error when firmware needed to be updated.
 
considering the sheer amount of pics this camera is giving me I thought it prudent tonight to back up all the years files so far to a external hard drive . giving me a clear run for the next year :olympus:
 
the black fox said:
considering the sheer amount of pics this camera is giving me I thought it prudent tonight to back up all the years files so far to a external hard drive . giving me a clear run for the next year :olympus:
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I back up mine every time I've done a shoot, and to two separate external drives :oops: :$
 
snerkler said:
I back up mine every time I've done a shoot, and to two separate external drives :oops: :$
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I have about ten years + backed up and to be honest I don't think I have ever gone back over them . every good shot has been processed and is easier to find on Flickr .
 
snerkler said:
I back up mine every time I've done a shoot, and to two separate external drives :oops: :$
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Always an interesting topic is image back up. I went nearly 20 years without having any sort of drive failure or issue, but then had two (one external and one internal) fail within 6 months of each other. Thankfully, I had backups so it was only really an inconvenience to me and nothing was lost.

I always try to have at least three copies of my images at all times. If you speak to most IT people, they'll tell you that if you don't have 3 copies, then you're not properly backed up. So, with that in mind here's my back up routine which I do after every card download. I always shoot using the two card slots on my camera so the second card slot backs up the first. When I get home, I download the photos on to an internal 4TB hard drive. At the same time, I make a second copy onto a USB drive. As the images are downloading, Backblaze immediately starts syncing the images to the cloud. Once the card download is complete, I backup the internal 4TB drive to a separate external one using Acronis. The following day, the external 4TB drive comes with me to work, and is swapped with an identical 4TB drive which I then take home and back up the internal drive to again. At that point, I'll format my cards and the separate USB drive. I therefore always have one back up at home on an external drive, one backup away from home on an external drive and one copy in the cloud. It might sound excessive, but I've invested a lot of time, effort and money into my photography and images of friends, family and other memories are simply irreplaceable.

Cheers,

Simon.
 
the black fox said:
I have about ten years + backed up and to be honest I don't think I have ever gone back over them . every good shot has been processed and is easier to find on Flickr .
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I religiously tag all of my images using Lightroom, and then have smart collections setup for specific things. Retrieving images from my catalogue is really, really easy :-)

Simon.
 
I would need 10,000 blue tit tags Simon LOL
 
Hi guys 'n gals

I have a bag question.........there are times when all I use are the long lens with and without a TC. Though end up taking the full kit bag and all that is required are spare SD and battery :)

I saw mention of the Think Tank Digital Holster 10 V2.0, does anyone use one of these bags that has an extendable section.......subject to checking dimensions I am wondering if one variant of this design will work for the E-M1MK2 plus either the 40-150 or the 300 plus as mentioned a TC as well??? And with the extension zipped up 'short' a good walkabout case with the 12-40 attached???

TIA for the insights :)
 
I am having some problems, hoping you can help.
Ever since moving to micro four thirds the amount of out of focus pictures I have has shot up, I have had this issue with both the PEN EP-5 & OMD EM1 mk II. I have attached below a sample of the problem which happens to me on both manual & auto focus. The below was manually focused using focus peaking so the camera told me it was infocus for the majority of the subject (metal framework) however clearly its not in focus at all.

Any feedback on what I might be doing wrong would be welcome, thanks.

Note: I have so far ruled out a fault with the camera as it was recently serviced by Olympus, not to say that means its 100% fine.

_9140377 by Jonathan Fussell, on Flickr
 
Bobsyeruncle said:
We need more info.
Exif data? where exactly did you focus?
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When I focused, focus peaking highlighted the main metal work attached to the side of the rollercoaster as being in focus including the pinnacle at the top. (barbed wires, cable & roof at the bottom supposed to be out of focus)

Minor adjustments have been made in post but only minor.

Exif below:
1568877685463.png
 
jono2002 said:
I am having some problems, hoping you can help.
Ever since moving to micro four thirds the amount of out of focus pictures I have has shot up, I have had this issue with both the PEN EP-5 & OMD EM1 mk II. I have attached below a sample of the problem which happens to me on both manual & auto focus. The below was manually focused using focus peaking so the camera told me it was infocus for the majority of the subject (metal framework) however clearly its not in focus at all.

Any feedback on what I might be doing wrong would be welcome, thanks.

Note: I have so far ruled out a fault with the camera as it was recently serviced by Olympus, not to say that means its 100% fine.

_9140377 by Jonathan Fussell, on Flickr
Click to expand...
I'm struggling with this as it looks in focus to me, the only thing that's not is the barbed wire which I assume is in the foreground?
 
snerkler said:
I'm struggling with this as it looks in focus to me, the only thing that's not is the barbed wire which I assume is in the foreground?
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It most evident when at 100%, to me does not look spot on. In case flickr does not show I have uploaded a full resolution TIFF here on dropbox.
(I do not condone pixel peeping in general :mad:, just for this its fine, just this once)
 
If your referring to the upward facing spikes/lights? Being OOF then yes I can see it . And while your shutter speed is more than adequate I would suggest that camera shake or shutter shake is the problem here .if it’s hand held the problem lies with you .. if it’s tripod mounted and or fired remotely it’s the i.b.i.s working against the tripod so needs to be switched off
 
the black fox said:
If your referring to the upward facing spikes/lights? Being OOF then yes I can see it . And while your shutter speed is more than adequate I would suggest that camera shake or shutter shake is the problem here .if it’s hand held the problem lies with you .. if it’s tripod mounted and or fired remotely it’s the i.b.i.s working against the tripod so needs to be switched off
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It was hand held, however I would of expected with the dual IS and shutter speed & no wind that camera shake shouldn't of been a problem. Unless it is the case and I need to not make this conclusion.
 
jono2002 said:
It most evident when at 100%, to me does not look spot on. In case flickr does not show I have uploaded a full resolution TIFF here on dropbox.
(I do not condone pixel peeping in general :mad:, just for this its fine, just this once)
Click to expand...
the black fox said:
If your referring to the upward facing spikes/lights? Being OOF then yes I can see it . And while your shutter speed is more than adequate I would suggest that camera shake or shutter shake is the problem here .if it’s hand held the problem lies with you .. if it’s tripod mounted and or fired remotely it’s the i.b.i.s working against the tripod so needs to be switched off
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I've just loaded in Lightroom and looked at 1:1. TBH I don't agree that it's not in focus, it's just not tack sharp. I can't see any camera shake tbh either. There's a couple of reasons that I can think of, lack of sharpening, contrasty light, and maybe shooting wide open.
 
snerkler said:
I've just loaded in Lightroom and looked at 1:1. TBH I don't agree that it's not in focus, it's just not tack sharp. I can't see any camera shake tbh either. There's a couple of reasons that I can think of, lack of sharpening, contrasty light, and maybe shooting wide open.
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Thanks, after further processing it does come up better, I think it maybe me. That fact is I have to do more processing to my oly pictures than I did from my S5pro, not got used to it yet and need to.

Been driving me mad, however feedback on the forum is always invaluable when I get stuck in a rut.
 
I see nothing wrong with that Jono at f4
Rob.
 
You mention the same issue with two different bodies and surmising the same lens (the 12-100 which many say is the sharpest 'knife' in the block!).

Based on the above and your statement re OOF I feel I have ask/say that without some tests using user error eliminating protocols the only common factor is you.

Do please try some proper testing to remove camera technique......because you have to send it in for service attaching some evidence based on solid tests will help the technician duplicate it!
 
Box Brownie said:
You mention the same issue with two different bodies and surmising the same lens (the 12-100 which many say is the sharpest 'knife' in the block!).

Based on the above and your statement re OOF I feel I have ask/say that without some tests using user error eliminating protocols the only common factor is you.

Do please try some proper testing to remove camera technique......because you have to send it in for service attaching some evidence based on solid tests will help the technician duplicate it!
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Yes user error looks to be high in the list at some point in the process [emoji3525]

The lens is different, I purchased this lens with the OMD, on the PEN I had three fixed focal length lenses.
 
jono2002 said:
Thanks, after further processing it does come up better, I think it maybe me. That fact is I have to do more processing to my oly pictures than I did from my S5pro, not got used to it yet and need to.

Been driving me mad, however feedback on the forum is always invaluable when I get stuck in a rut.
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Never be afraid to ask, that's what forums are for. It's never nice when you pay out for new gear and not getting the results you were hoping for. For what it's worth, I have the EM1-II and have been more than happy with the results, and for large parts are comparable to the images I get with full frame. I must admit, it took me a while to get the best out of the Olympus files, and I'm sure there's still room for improvement.

For best results you ideally want to shoot in raw and process yourself in something like Lightroom. I now have a preset for my Olympus files that I have created which I'm happy with and look as close as possible to my Nikon files. As a result I can just import with that preset and then PP is minimal, often just requiring a crop or WB change. When you start out Olympus files do need more processing than FF imo. For example my Olympus preset is much more 'aggressive' than my Nikon one, with heavy contrast and some clarity etc applied, as well as sharpening of course. With the Nikon file all I've done is use the camera standard profile, add +5 dehaze and a touch or sharpening.
 
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