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50 mm / 1:1 NOKTON - Voigtländer
www.voigtlaender.de
Maybe voigtlander have come to save me from Noctilux
You could have a look at this one. Some seem to give it good reviews.
7Artisans 50mm f/1.05 (Leica/Panasonic/Sigma L Mount)
7Artisans 50mm f/1.05 (Leica/Panasonic/Sigma L Mount) Our latest 50mm lens for Full Frame Mirrorless Cameras. With 10 elements in 7 groups this newly developewww.7artisans.co.uk
View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KLSJ4qPjn1s
nice must have missed this one, but can you adapt L to M?
I have looked at these other 7artisan ttartisan cheaper options, but examples have not compelled me vs noct 1.0 - but i'm not spending that much either, tomorrow I can use the lens I've already got! but will keep an eye on the new voigt
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One disappointment with the Sony mount fast Voigtlanders is CA at the widest apertures. I don't know if that affects the M mount ones but it's worth keeping an eye out for this in reviews. I have the 40mm f1.2 in Sony mount and it can show a lot depending on how challenging and CA friendly the scene and lighting are.
justpix
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50 mm / 1:1 NOKTON - Voigtländer
Maybe voigtlander have come to save me from Noctilux
Hi, the new Nokton looks nice on paper. There is, of course, open focusing (thin DOF), open use on the M9 (1/4000 sec. max) and how smooth the bokeh balls are.
Here you can see onion rings ... (M9 - VOIGTLÄNDER Nokton 1,2/35 v1 f 1,2 ; crops) :
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Would be nice to see samples of new 1.0 but video does say no onion rings
justpix
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This would be great, iff this has really been tested ... ---
P.S.: I just watched the video. - The lens is huge. Under the M9 a plate has been mounted to make it rest horizontally...
At 13:47 in the video it says "nearly no onion-rings" , which justifies closer scrutiny ...
Of course, my statements are based on my personal tastes (Leica M means compactness for me), and my present set of toys with 5 50mm M mount lenses... ---
(And a ground (grinding in the video) aspherical lens is nice, especially if it has been produced with high precision, which is not always the case ... --- )
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i think the lens still tips forward due to the weight, and the plate has been mounted so that can pop in onto a tripod for testing.
justpix
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Hi, the lens will not tip forward when mounted to an M9. It will look upwards, I expect.
My 35mm Nokton has a diameter of 60mm, which gives it a clearance of ca. 3mm on a level surface.
The new 50mm Nokton has a diameter of 73,5mm which I found here :
Voigtländer Nokton 50mm 1.0 VM für Leica M | 1023365
Voigtländer Nokton 1,0/50mm Leica MDas Nokton 50 mm F1,0 asphärisch VM ist ein komplett neu entwickeltes Standardobjektiv für Vollformatkameras mit Leica M-Anschluss und weist einige Besonderheiten auf.Ein Entwicklungsziel war neben der sehr großen Blend…
www.foto-mundus.de
So, this is not for me ... ---
So far so good!
I wonder if I need a hood for the lens and what I could get.
Was a bit baffled by two menus, one hidden under the SET button - took some time to enable DNG.
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I buy cheap metal vented lens hoods off the auction site. They don't have to be vented as I use a Sony A7 but that's just how they come.
As you will know some older lenses are affected more and will often benefit from a hood, unless you think a shot without one is nicer.
Would this lens + a hood be visible in the VF?
As you will know some older lenses are affected more and will often benefit from a hood, unless you think a shot without one is nicer.
Would this lens + a hood be visible in the VF?
The lens is visible in the VF, but it's outside of the 50mm box - and I think with a hood it'd barely encroach the corner if it does.
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Just on the subject of lens hoods or not. I think the most affected lenses I have are some old film era Nippon Kogaku / Nikon and also some earlier Minolta Rokkors, the 55mm f1.7 in particular. I've usually tried to avoid the effects but in this video I think the lens gives a beautiful result, but this is video and not stills photography but I suppose some still shots could still look lovely.
The old lens part starts at about 1:50.
View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AMwrYohDz00&t=210s
The old lens part starts at about 1:50.
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Dan, I wasn't tempting you with lenses... I was just pointing out that sometimes not having a lens hood can give a different look. Sometimes flare and loss of contrast and all the rest might be a bad thing but sometimes all this can result in a different look that you might like.
I haven't done it for a while but in the past I've certainly posted pictures on this site with all sorts of issues and sometimes that is the point.
I haven't done it for a while but in the past I've certainly posted pictures on this site with all sorts of issues and sometimes that is the point.
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You were though! I'll stick to trying without a hood for a while - see what happens - as you say maybe i'll like it
taken with Q2
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Sometimes, I haven't experienced it myself but I have read about it. I think it's when they are bashed about a bit though normal use shouldn't cause rangefinder misalignment. With the newer models (those after M9) it is easier to re-align them because you can use the LV or hotshoe mounted EVF to determine focus.
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Thank you Paul.
In case anyone is wondering why I've asked questions. I've had a couple of RF's and I liked them and having one camera and one lens sort of appeals to me but in reality I doubt I'll be willing to spend what a Leica and even a 3rd party lens will cost and the Sony kit I have is probably a better fit. But you never know
PS.
I had a Voigtlander 35mm f2.5 color skopar, the one with the focus ring without the little thumb/finger thingy.
In case anyone is wondering why I've asked questions. I've had a couple of RF's and I liked them and having one camera and one lens sort of appeals to me but in reality I doubt I'll be willing to spend what a Leica and even a 3rd party lens will cost and the Sony kit I have is probably a better fit. But you never know
PS.
I had a Voigtlander 35mm f2.5 color skopar, the one with the focus ring without the little thumb/finger thingy.
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AndrewFlannigan
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Clouds from the other side (Panasonic TZ40 / Leica Vario Elmar)
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If the RF roller cam needs adjustment it’s very easy (if it’s the roller cam arm it’s a lot harder)
my m9 was adjusted by Leica before I got it in 2017 and it’s still ok (some 40,000+ shots later and countless hours spent slung over my shoulder and all the little knocks it’s had)
My 240 needed adjustment when I got it
To test I point it at a star and check that when the lens is at infinity the double image of the star is exactly aligned in the VF
(you can use a crescent moon too, but IME the full moon is a bit too glowy)
To adjust it, use a quality 2mm (iirc) allen key as I show below, adjust until you make the star/moon/whatever you used that’s several miles away align at infinity and this will most likely fix it across the whole focusing range (if not it’s the focusing arm)
One tip I was given and stick too is that I only ever mount/unmount lenses when they’re in their minimum focus distance position as this means the act of twisting the lens into the mount doesn’t really touch the focusing cam and allegedly that’s the main culprit of it going out of alignment (ie being banged by the bayonet every time you change lenses, is it just me or did that sound rude?)
Remember there’s loads of things that can screw up rangefinder in focus shots, you moved, the subject moved, focus and recompose, stop down focus shift, field curvature, tired eyes, you actually need glasses, you wore your glasses and your eye was too far from the VF!, you didn’t look through the VF exactly square on to the middle, you focused on a subject that’s at an angle….
….sh*t man, I’m amazed we ever nail a shot
FF = front focus, BF = back focus… you’ll probably say FFS a few times while doing it
Like all good leica marketing, less is more here, teeny tiny little turns at a time, you should be asking yourself if you even turned it…
ops forgot to add
you can test FF/BF at closer distances (printed text is a good subject) but if in the star test, the split image star (the one that moves) doesn’t meet the star it’s back focus and if it goes past the star it’s front focus)
my m9 was adjusted by Leica before I got it in 2017 and it’s still ok (some 40,000+ shots later and countless hours spent slung over my shoulder and all the little knocks it’s had)
My 240 needed adjustment when I got it
To test I point it at a star and check that when the lens is at infinity the double image of the star is exactly aligned in the VF
(you can use a crescent moon too, but IME the full moon is a bit too glowy)
To adjust it, use a quality 2mm (iirc) allen key as I show below, adjust until you make the star/moon/whatever you used that’s several miles away align at infinity and this will most likely fix it across the whole focusing range (if not it’s the focusing arm)
One tip I was given and stick too is that I only ever mount/unmount lenses when they’re in their minimum focus distance position as this means the act of twisting the lens into the mount doesn’t really touch the focusing cam and allegedly that’s the main culprit of it going out of alignment (ie being banged by the bayonet every time you change lenses, is it just me or did that sound rude?)
Remember there’s loads of things that can screw up rangefinder in focus shots, you moved, the subject moved, focus and recompose, stop down focus shift, field curvature, tired eyes, you actually need glasses, you wore your glasses and your eye was too far from the VF!, you didn’t look through the VF exactly square on to the middle, you focused on a subject that’s at an angle….
….sh*t man, I’m amazed we ever nail a shot
FF = front focus, BF = back focus… you’ll probably say FFS a few times while doing it
Like all good leica marketing, less is more here, teeny tiny little turns at a time, you should be asking yourself if you even turned it…
ops forgot to add
you can test FF/BF at closer distances (printed text is a good subject) but if in the star test, the split image star (the one that moves) doesn’t meet the star it’s back focus and if it goes past the star it’s front focus)
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wibbly
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I think that quite often anyway
Adam Bonn
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Thank you very much, Adam, for your Leica Messsucher-adjusting how-to!I have filed this. ---
My pleasure.
There's a far better one over on LUF that says how to adjust the arm too
justpix
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Hi, looking at corner performance at infinity ... (SONY A7R2 - Sonnar 1,5/50 f 8).
Full view :
Crop thereof :
Full view, camera pointed to the left, to assess corner performance :
Right crop of center :
Right crop of center, camera pointed left :
Why did I do this ? Adapting lenses to mirrorless bodies looks promising if one looks for a high performance, fully featured camera at a low price compared to Leica.
But, even a lens with 50mm shows poor performance in the corners. (WAs or UWAs are much worse, apart from the WATE.)
The camera used above is a back-level SONY. Newer bodies with BSI sensors could or should show better performance, the light-collecting micro-lenses
being closer to the photo-diodes.
Newer SONYs like the A7-3 or A7-R4 should perform better. How much better? As good as a Leica? Or almost as good ?
This is the 5000 €-question I ask myself with the M11 coming.
Full view :
Crop thereof :
Full view, camera pointed to the left, to assess corner performance :
Right crop of center :
Right crop of center, camera pointed left :
Why did I do this ? Adapting lenses to mirrorless bodies looks promising if one looks for a high performance, fully featured camera at a low price compared to Leica.
But, even a lens with 50mm shows poor performance in the corners. (WAs or UWAs are much worse, apart from the WATE.)
The camera used above is a back-level SONY. Newer bodies with BSI sensors could or should show better performance, the light-collecting micro-lenses
being closer to the photo-diodes.
Newer SONYs like the A7-3 or A7-R4 should perform better. How much better? As good as a Leica? Or almost as good ?
This is the 5000 €-question I ask myself with the M11 coming.
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wibbly
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I thought I’d read somewhere the Sony A series camera sensors were too thick for M Mount lenses and compromised image quality.
I’d read somewhere the Nikon Z series cameras offer better performance for adapted M Mount lenses.
I haven’t shot much with my Nikon Z6 & M Mount lenses. The Z is a great camera, but boring as hell to shoot with!
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I think that particular 50mm does have weak performance in the corners but I wouldn't buy that lens expecting good corner performance, for me it would be more of a characterful lens for use at wider apertures when suitable, eg for people pictures. Other and often cheaper (that Sonnar isn't cheap) film era 50mm lenses have much better corner performance but I don't know how they'll perform on a Leica RF.
Even the Jupiter 3 which is I think a copy of the Zeiss is quite expensive.
Minolta Rokkor 50mm f1.4 on a Sony A7.
100% BRHS corner.
The LHS.
Even the Jupiter 3 which is I think a copy of the Zeiss is quite expensive.
Minolta Rokkor 50mm f1.4 on a Sony A7.
100% BRHS corner.
The LHS.
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justpix
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Hi, this is the case, or has at least been the case for the non-BSI sensors of previous generations.
I am not sure whether BSI sensors might show better performance.
