OFFICIAL I HAVE A NEW (FILM RELATED) TOY THREAD!!

abbandon said:
It's not that it will not cover it is just that it actually has less coverage than a standard 150mm lens
http://www.largeformatphotography.info/lenses/LF4x5in.html

For simple landscapes it is probably fine for extreme movements in architecture not so much, also most lenses have a wider circle of illumination than their rated coverage - you get to ambitious it sort of looks ok then you develop it and you find you pushed the lens beyond the point that it has sharp coverage.
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In that case, yes I did buy it in error! I'd bought it to bridge the 90mm to 150mm gap and to try some late evening architecture shots where a f8 is just too hard to achieve good focus. So it'll be fine on the hills as as a gap plug, in fact it'll be good since its tiny but I'll have some difficulty with the architecture?
 
Interesting to read this point about architecture...I have a very limited understanding about coverage in relation to movements and I would hope that you haven't bought yourself an "elephant" steveo.

I am keeping my eyes open for a lens in the region of 120mm for 5x4, and like steveo, i will be looking at shooting architecture as well as landscape so movements is an essential area to consider.

How large an image circle is recommended in order to ensure suitable coverage is available without vignetting when shooting architecture .....I suspect it will vary depending on focal length ( please excuse my ignorance , it's all part of learning!), but some idea would be helpful.
 
Asha said:
Interesting to read this point about architecture...I have a very limited understanding about coverage in relation to movements and I would hope that you haven't bought yourself an "elephant" steveo.

I am keeping my eyes open for a lens in the region of 120mm for 5x4, and like steveo, i will be looking at shooting architecture as well as landscape so movements is an essential area to consider.

How large an image circle is recommended in order to ensure suitable coverage is available without vignetting when shooting architecture .....I suspect it will vary depending on focal length ( please excuse my ignorance , it's all part of learning!), but some idea would be helpful.
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I'm sure it'll be fine for me, I've been looking at the few architectural shots I've taken, they've all been with my 90mm SA and there has been enough coverage there with about the same image circle so I may have to move slightly (or a lot) or put up with a little keystone. It will be a good lens out on the hills and when I decide to do more architecture I'll review my lens options and probably stick to daylight where I can see with an f8. And for my current night use I'll stuck with the RB and acros.
 
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You both have monorails that most likely have scales on the rise and shift? you can easily stay within the lens limits but looking at the table linked to. Just always start with the movements zeroed and you can read from the scales where you are in terms of the coverage limits

In this case you have about 35mm of rise in Landscape and 30mm in portrait same for your ability to shift, this could well be enough for your needs.
I have the 5.6 and F8 90mm super Angulons in Landscape shots I have on occasion when not paying attention pushed the rise beyond what it will do and the results are disappointing.

Around this focal length there are not many F5.6 wide angle options the best known being the 110 Super Symmar XL while the best performer in coverage stakes is the Nikon 120SW F8 that just covers 10x8
 
Ordered a Nikon F2A from Japan off ebay which arrived yesterday. Just been putting it to the test & it seems to be working well. The battery box in my earlier F2 has broken & for what I paid for it, it isn't worth sending to Sover Wong to have fixed. Cosmetic condition isn't great. May persevere with taking it apart to fix it. Currently 2 screws defeating me by not undoing.
 
DNH said:
Ordered a Nikon F2A from Japan off ebay which arrived yesterday. Just been putting it to the test & it seems to be working well. The battery box in my earlier F2 has broken & for what I paid for it, it isn't worth sending to Sover Wong to have fixed. Cosmetic condition isn't great. May persevere with taking it apart to fix it. Currently 2 screws defeating me by not undoing.
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Battery only powers the meter in the DP-1 though (what I assume is on your earlier F2) right? If the speeds are all fine, you can still use it as a meterless SLR.
 
Very true thanks, but I would rather have an F2 with a working meter. I already have an F with an eyelevel prism so don't really want another meterless Nikon.

I tested the DP-1 on the F2 that arrived yesterday & it works fine so, assuming that I can't fix it, I will find another F2 body to put the DP-1 on. There are a couple on Mr Cad's site that would fit the bill & their shop is quite easy for me to get to.
 
DNH said:
Ordered a Nikon F2A from Japan off ebay which arrived yesterday. Just been putting it to the test & it seems to be working well. The battery box in my earlier F2 has broken & for what I paid for it, it isn't worth sending to Sover Wong to have fixed. Cosmetic condition isn't great. May persevere with taking it apart to fix it. Currently 2 screws defeating me by not undoing.
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pics please :-)
 
16027217983_21cbec0921_b.jpg


The new to me F2A photo as requested.
 
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Lookin' mighty fine.
 
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Just ordered my first lot of film in around 6 months
1 box of Provia 100
1 box of Tri-X
3 rolls of Rollei ISO25
4 rolls of Agfa Copex B&W slide
2 small bottles of Rodinal

All shipped from MacoDirect for the princely sum of £76.
I love payday... (and a weak Euro)
 
robhooley167 said:
Just ordered my first lot of film in around 6 months
1 box of Provia 100
1 box of Tri-X
3 rolls of Rollei ISO25
4 rolls of Agfa Copex B&W slide
2 small bottles of Rodinal

All shipped from MacoDirect for the princely sum of £76.
I love payday... (and a weak Euro)
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At your current shooting rate that should last you well into the next decade.
 
RaglanSurf said:
At your current shooting rate that should last you well into the next decade.
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It's my devving rate that's the problem, not the shooting rate! 4 undevved B&W rolls on my desk at the moment, under all of the other mess and paperwork...
 
As per the courier thread, my new Olympus OM2n arrived this morning and is in perfect order so I'm a happy bunny.

View attachment 31679

I've had a few OM bodies and love the lenses on both film and my Nex but one thing that bothers me is the grip (or lack of). I haven't got big hands but find the thin body can be a bit awkward to grip comfortably so have been looking at OEM grips. Unfortunately I think they look way too big and 'functional' because I only want the grip part and not the winder. I haven't come across any non-winder OEM options so started thinking about other cameras and modern DSLR styling. I've just started messing around with playdoh (it's what I had to hand!) and have come up with this shape;

View attachment 31681

View attachment 31682

View attachment 31683

Ignore the dayglo colours, it looks like a grip Shaggy out of Scooby Doo would use ;0). Just wondering if anybody's ever seen something similar for the OM bodies? I've also found that some sections of the body are magnetic including the battery cover, two points on the front and next to the rear door hinge so in theory, the grip could be attached using magnets. I'm not starting another project just yet though!
 
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@stevelmx5

Now as you know we're all "friends" in here Steve, and anything shared goes no further than the f&c "walls" so your need to entertain yourself regularly with playdoh is perfectly ok, we understand, you don't have to use propotype grips to share your "problem"....we're here to offer a listening ear and support! :D:D:D
 
Yeah yeah, that's exactly why I'm not starting another one. I might just shoot some film to be radical!
 
I've got an undeveloped roll of 35mm in the fridge so does that make me a real photographer? [emoji4]
 
stevelmx5 said:
I've got an undeveloped roll of 35mm in the fridge so does that make me a real photographer? [emoji4]
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Nope, it just means that you're a slacker with backlog ...just like Hooleygan:D ( oh yeah, did i mention the negs from 6 months ago that i've yet to scan :confused::p)
 
TheBigYin said:
interesting - Something like Sugru and some Neodyms might just work...
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Sorry TBY, I've only just seen your post in the sea of sarcasm ;0) My thoughts exactly and I've been testing with a few 4mm diameter neodymium magnets I've got here already. I reckon Sugru would be strong enough once it was cured but still flexible enough to be comfortable. If a magnetic attachment would be secure enough it would make it easy to add/remove. Looking at my playdoh mock up (which has since been rolled into a ball by my cruel children..), it would block the self timer while in place but would't interfere with the film door or winder.

As for the Hasselbad comment Chris, I reckon the grip is the only unique part of their recent Stellar/Lunar cameras so maybe that's not entirely bad ;0)
 
TheBigYin said:
interesting - Something like Sugru and some Neodyms might just work...
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I have a neodymium magnet which I keep well away from anything susceptible to its very strong field. I take my watch off when handling it. I certainly wouldn't let it near any camera with a magnet in its shutter curtain control mechanism. In fact I'd even be wary of putting it close to my OM1.
 
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Om1 would probably be fine but the rest of the range use electro magnets in the shutter and I can't imagine introducing another magnetic field will help the delicate speed control.
 
steveo_mcg said:
Om1 would probably be fine but the rest of the range use electro magnets in the shutter and I can't imagine introducing another magnetic field will help the delicate speed control.
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Well the OM1 might be at a push , however its manual has the following under the 'care instructions':

Never expose the camera to direct sunlight. Avoid areas exposed to corrosive chemicals, radios, TV sets, or magnets.

So I'm not risking it as I know that the springs in the mechanism must be made of steel and these neodymium pot magnets grip like limpets. I couldn't believe how much force was required to try and pull mine off a steel radiator.
 
All valid points and definitely worth considering. If I do put a grip together the alternative is some 3M adhesive tape which will keep it in place but should remove without damaging the skin of the camera. The only issue is that unless the grip has a cutout built in, it will stop the self timer functioning. Not a major problem personally though because I don't think I've ever used a self timer in any camera.
 
fresh 2xAA and the shutter/light metre jobby seems good :-)
 
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