FWIW then, and handling is very subjective.
It's got more heft that reviews would lead you to believe. It feels very solid and comments that it feels plastic baffle me.
It's fairly easy to change ISO on the dial without taking the camera away, same for the EV. The whole 'the dials slow you down' argument is, for me, not one that carries weight.
The hand grip is a little small, and the right hand strap mount point is poorly placed but again, flipping the strap over the hand removes that issue.
AF - it's no D3s. It's good in decent light and pretty much foolproof. In lower light (and by that I mean ISO6400 needed to get 1/200s at f2, for example) it struggles and the AF points that aren't cross-type are pretty average. The AF spread for a FF sensor is also too cramped. Essentially the same as a D600/D610 then, as you'd expect.
The VF is excellent, and the sensor the real winner in this camera. It's as good as you'd hope.
It's expensive, and probably about £500 too much BUT, and here's the kicker, it's a lovely, lovely camera to own and use. The IQ is absolutely stellar, in both good and poor light.