Nightclub Photography

Lucy J

Lucy J

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Name
Lucy
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Hi all,

My other half is a promoter and to get more involved in what he does I’ve decided to get myself a good camera and take pictures for him at his events, club events. I have a little idea about all the manual settings you need... I have read bits and bobs here and there but here’s my problem... I really can’t afford to spend an absolute fortune and as a beginner I think I should start off semi small...

I have seen this camera and was wondering if it would be any good? Fuji S1500

Any feedback would be great. I have tried to read a few threads on here already but they all seem pretty technical and I get a bit lost...

Thanks

LJ
 
I would have thought that for what you want you may have been better off with a DLSR with a proper flash on the top.

Get a second hand one from here if cost is an option.
 
Ok... whats a DLSR? lol sorry TOTAL beginner...

The spec for the camera is as follows:

Fuji - £199
Explore the power of the FujiS1500 and take photographs that will last a lifetime.

This Fuji digital camera offers you complete creativity with full manual photographic control. You'll love the sheer variety of scenes and settings that can be tweaked to achieve perfection.

• a digital compact camera that includes the features of a DSLR, the Fuji S1500 delivers the best of both worlds
• get up close and personal with the 12x super zoom lens
• auto focus tracking ability means moving targets, like children, are easily captured and stay in focus
• manipulate settings like ISO speed, quality and colour to fine-tune your shots
• 10 megapixel resolution
• 2.7in LCD screen
• 12x super zoom lens
• 50MB integrated memory
• dual-image stabilisation and auto focus tracking
• face detection with automatic red-eye removal
• AA batteries
• Black.

Number of effective pixels
10.0 million pixels

CCD sensor
1/ 2.3-inch CCD

Storage media
Internal memory (Approx. 23 MB) / SD memory card / SDHC memory card

File format
Still image: JPEG (Exif Ver 2.2*3) Movie: AVI (Motion JPEG) with sound WAVE format, Monaural sound (Design rule for Camera File system compliant / DPOF-compatible)

Lens
Fujinon 12x optical zoom lens, F2.8 (Wide) - F5.0 (Telephoto)

Lens focal length
f=5.9 - 70.8mm, equivalent to 33 - 396mm on a 35mm camera

Focus
Auto focus (Area, Multi, Center, Tracking) / Continuous AF AF assist illuminator available

Focus distance
Normal: * Wide: Approx. 40cm / 1.3ft. to infinity * Telephoto: Approx. 1.5m / 4.9ft. to infinity Macro: * Wide: Approx. 5cm - 3m / 2.0in. - 9.8ft. * Telephoto: Approx. 80cm - 3m / 2.6ft. - 9.8ft. Super Macro: * Approx. 2cm - 1m / 0.8in. - 3.3ft.

Shutter speed
(Auto mode) 1/4sec. to 1/2000sec., (All other modes) 8sec. to 1/2000sec.

Aperture
Wide: F2.8 - F6.4, Telephoto: F5.0 - F8.0, max 5 steps in 1/3 EV increment

Sensitivity
Auto / Auto(800) / Auto(400) / Equivalent to ISO 64 / 100 / 200 / 400 / 800 / 1600 / 3200 / 6400 (Standard Output Sensitivity) * ISO 3200/6400: 3M pixels or lower (Number of recorded pixels)

Exposure modes
Programmed AE, Aperture Priority AE, Shutter Priority AE, Manual

White balance
Automatic scene recognition. Preset: (Fine, Shade, Fluorescent light (Daylight), Fluorescent light (Warm white), Fluorescent light (Cool white), Incandescent light), Custom

Viewfinder
0.2-inch, Approx. 200,000 dots, FLCD monitor (R/G/B colors are displayed in a single dot), Approx. 97% coverage

LCD Monitor
2.7-inch, Approx. 230,000 dots, TFT color LCD monitor, Approx. 97% coverage

Self-timer
Approx. 10 sec./ 2 sec. Delay

Video Output
NTSC / PAL selectable

Digital Interface
USB2.0 High-Speed

Power source
4xAA type alkaline batteries(included) / 4xAA type Ni-MH rechargeable batteries(sold separately) / 4xAA type lithium batteries (sold separately) / DC coupler CP-04 with AC power adapter AC-5VX(sold separately)

Dimensions
102.5(W) x 73.0(H) x 67.8(D)mm / 4.1(W) x 2.9(H) x 2.7(D)in. (excluding accessories and attachments)

Weight
Approx. 324g/11.4oz. (excluding accessories, batteries and memory card)

Digital Zoom
Approx. 5.7x (max.)

Shooting modes
Mode dial: Auto, SR Auto, SP, P, S, A, M, C, Panorama, Movie SP:Portrait, Landscape, Sport, Night, Night (Tripod), Natural Light, Fireworks, Sunset, Snow, Beach, Museum, Party, Flower, Text

Movie recording
Movie: 640 x 480 pixels (30 frames/sec.), 320 x 240 pixels (30 frames/sec.) with monaural sound

Playback
Slideshow, Face Detection (with Red-eye removal), Trimming, Single frame and Multi-frame playback (with Micro thumbnail), Sorting by date, Image rotate, Voice Memo, Histograms (Highlight warning)

Voice memo
Up to 30 sec. WAV format
 
Tbh nightclub photography is one of those situations where you need pretty decent kit otherwise you'll come across a whole host of problems. I would say it requires an SLR for a number of reasons, inherently better high iso, faster autofocusing and more suitable lenses.

Something like a 2nd hand 400D would be good, but i'm stuggling to think of a lens that would be suitable at a reasonable price.....i'll leave that to someone else.

Wikipedia is quite good at explaining things like aperture (which you'll need to understand for low light and flash photography) It also means you can go at your own speed, get the full picture and read about related things (and the finer details)
Link
Link
Link (there's a fair bit of maths in this which you wont need but you should get your head around f-stops (which are also mentioned in the aperture link))
 
400D is a model of Canon digital SLR.

You will need a camera with reasonable low light capabilities, a lens with a fairly wide angle range, and a flash gun with a bounce and swivel head.

If your boyfriend is a promoter, maybe he could purchase the camera and claim it as a business expense.
 
Lucy J said:
Ok, excuse me for being really stupid but what is a 400D..?
Click to expand...

A camera, Canon to be specific.

I think the main thing here is, research all about ISO, apertures, shutter speeds, all the basics. That way you'll know what you need rather than looking at a bunch of random specs that mean nothing to you. Decent (i.e. Pro) nightclub photography is to be honest, probably out of your reach at the moment, but with I'm sure you'll pick everything up soon enough.

But yeah, go research the basics of ISO, aperture, and shutterspeed and how they work together.
 
Ok thanks...

... so I'm literally looking at between £800 and £900!

That Fuji above would be completely useless?
 
Largely yes..!!!

You would either have a flash that was not powerful enough or makes people look unwell...!!

Look at nightclub pictures on facebook from your mates nights out they are rarely were good..!

nightclub photography
 
I know what you mean...

My other half has just started out promoting... he's not majorily well know yet and he uses a normal samsung compact digital camera at the moment...

I thought anything other than that would be better.

Thanks for all the comments x

Ive been onto the website:

www.nightclubphotography101.com

Will that help me at all?
 
My other half is a DJ so I've done a few. You really need a DSLR. Have a look for a secondhand D40 - I use it and it's really good for a beginner, they have discontinued them now so you should be able to get a bargain, prob around £200. The 18-55 kit lens it comes with should be perfect focal length for you.

Then speak to Flash in the Pan here and get your self a cheap yongnuo flash, for about £35. Preferably also a bracket (£22) and an Ominbouce (£2.99), and a off-camera flash lead (about £12 I think).

Nightclubs are pretty difficult and you won't get any good shots on a P&S, just sweaty people and black backgrounds.

Then go to the Strobist website and read and learn.
 
I cannot strongly enough emphasise the need for good (not the cheap foam - I use surefire ep3) earplugs, adobe lightroom, lots of hard drive storage on your computer (inc backups), and a TTL capable, own brand (ie canon or nikon) external flash, not only for the flash, but for the focusing assistance.

pretty much everything else is secondary imo - so a D40 or 400D with kit lens will do the job.
 
Definitely agree about the earplugs! I got mine fitted by a ear specialist, quite expensive but you can't get your eardrums replaced :shake:
 
Regarding price, I got a 400D refurbished from the canon reseller on ebay for 275 including kit lens. As you will note from my information to the left, it's broken (the focus was dodgy when it arrived) but it's getting repaired under warranty, the canon reseller provides a full 1 year warranty which is why I went with them.

Just throwing it out there as an option.
 
Is it mainly the flash on these cameras... the Fuji has all the options to change the ISO, Aperture and shutter speed...

I will have a look around for the cameras you have suggested...
 
Lucy J said:
Is it mainly the flash on these cameras... the Fuji has all the options to change the ISO, Aperture and shutter speed...

I will have a look around for the cameras you have suggested...
Click to expand...

The inbuilt flash on almost ALL cameras (even your £1K+ slr's) tend to be rubbish, and for any kind of control over what you are lighting, you'll need an add on flash.
 
I do nightclub photography for dontstayin.com and its not as hard as first may seem! But as said, definetly need decent gear. And a flashgun is a must! Im currently using a Canon 450d with a 430exii speedlight. Im still using the standard kit lens, not a wide angle. I can get good results with the standard lens, but you ideally want a wide angle lens because you will be working in close spaces 99% of the time. They also give some wicked effects.

Slow shutter speeds and highish iso are the key. Have a look here at my Flickr for camera settings to use. Look on the right hand side of the photo and click on more properties. This will give you a idea of what shutter speed and aperture to use.


http://www.flickr.com/photos/42203308@N07/sets/72157622710950569/
 
A reasonable kit would be something like:-

Nikon D50 or D70 camera (body) = £125-£150
Nikkor f/1.8 50mm lens = £65
Nikon SB-600 Flash = £135

Please bear in mind this is 2nd hand kit & these prices are what you'll find on an auction site, but it would be a decent start.

If you wanted to reduce the cost still further you could buy a far cheaper flash to use off-camera...

Just an idea ;)

Anyway, all the best with your new venture :thumbs:
 
Naith said:
A reasonable kit would be something like:-

Nikon D50 or D70 camera (body) = £125-£150
Nikkor f/1.8 50mm lens = £65
Nikon SB-600 Flash = £135

Please bear in mind this is 2nd hand kit & these prices are what you'll find on an auction site, but it would be a decent start.
Click to expand...

a 50mm prime is far, far too long for most shots in even remotely busy nightclubs. I'd suggest 30mm as an absolute minimum, but once you're buying a 30mm prime you might as well just go for a 17/18-50 2.8 for a little bit more.
 
Hi Lucy,

I think most of the important stuff has been covered already, but you could probably get away with obtaining most of the essential stuff for around £600, or less if you're particularly shrewd on the 2nd hand market.

1000D - basic DSLR
Sigma/Tamron 17-35mm - less in lots of light, and provide a good working zoom range
430EX flash gun - you NEED an external flash

Sorted.

My pics on flickr have viewable settings to get an idea what you need in a club environment,

good luck,

Ads
 
For nightclub photography I'd suggest at first going for a basic second hand dslr (400d etc). as far as flash goes, consider a used 550ex, plenty of power and everything you need for a reasonable price. lens wise, 17/18 on the wide end for a 1.6x crop like the 400d, you'll never need anything more than 50 on the long end. an 18-55 kit lens will be fine. don't use something like a 24-70 on a 1.6x crop as you won't be able to get group shots in. leave the flash on ttl, make sure its set to second curtain sync if it does it. set your shutter to 1/10 or lower, open up your aperture, taking into account depth of field. f4 is fine, if you can go lower you'd need to be thinking about dof and focus a lot more. set to centre point af, iso to at least 800. bouncing your flash is nice, but most clubs have high/matt black ceilings, so think about buying a diffuser to go over the end of your flash. don't try and use a bit of paper or a lightsphere etc, it'll get caught/fall off/taken off by a drunk clubber. always fit a uv filter on your lens, and a lens hood if you have one. hold your camera on top of your shoulder or above your head if its busy, don't have it dangling round your neck. consider investing in some luminous tape to go round the body on your flash gun, round the outside of your lens hood etc. stops drunk dozy people walking into your camera. read up on dragging the shutter. most importantly keep your wits about you, always be looking 1 step ahead into the crowd, you don't want to find you're in the middle of a brawl that's blown up next to you because you were too busy concentrating on what's immediately in front of you. theres probably stuff i've missed, but i've been doing nightclub photography for a while and it's been a nice earner and i've not had any trouble (touch wood).

I feel that tillate and dontstayin- it's your choice if you want to do it as a one off for the experience and all that, but they're making real money off your skills and hard work and not paying you anything in return. Don't be taken for a ride.
 
silverstar189 said:
I feel that tillate and dontstayin- it's your choice if you want to do it as a one off for the experience and all that, but they're making real money off your skills and hard work and not paying you anything in return. Don't be taken for a ride.
Click to expand...

very very much this. I too earn some reasonable money from it, promoters realise the benefit of a reliable service with a good standard of work, rapport and networking with the customers, DJs and staff etc. Furthermore, dontstayin and tilllate can really lower the value of photography in the eyes of the beancounters - why hire a professional when you can get tillate to come and take a few snaps for free once in a while - fortunately, lots of promoters can realise that this actually does nothing for the club whatsoever :)

I'm not personally a massive fan of the whole dontstayin/tillate 'thing' of dragging the shutter as much as 1/10th, I just feel it's a bit...overused really, so prefer to burn in to about 1/40thand always aim/time for some form of backlighting from lights in the background, and then go for a -FeV'd flash through a stofen (to very slightly soften the light)

and then the editing, and a consistent editing style, is important too, as is the branding, detail shots, etc...

edit: oh, and insurance! public liability, and for your kit, is a must.
 
Silverstar, some good advice but your not allowing for the fact Lucy is a beginner to this game. Although all useful info, all that about TTL, curtain sync and 1.6x crop sensor business might not be too clear.

Lucy the main thing to bear in mind is that a DSLR isn't there just so you can change more settings and utilise more megapixels, they're there to allow you to take much sharper pictures with richer colours and more importantly allow you to do it at lower light levels.

A good camera body (which can be bought separately from the lenses) range from something like a Canon 400D (£250ish second hand), to the Canon 1Ds MK3 series for 2 or 3 grand. As far as low light photography is concerned, generally speaking, the more expensive the body the better it performs under low light. This means the 1Ds will produce images with very little 'noise' at high light sensitivities, the 400D less so. Don't worry about spending so much, I've got some pretty decent shots out of my 400D in clubs/bars! 1 2

The lens is very important, more important than the body as most I think would agree. They have 2 main variables; their focal length and their minimum aperture.
Focal length is a measurement of the 'zoom', with a lower figure (such as below 25) meaning a wide angle, and a higher figure (say 70 and above) meaning telephoto (longer range). On compacts they are measured in 1x, 2x 3x etc, however on SLR lenses it's measured in millimeters. A lens such as the Canon 17-85mm would work quite nicely as you can get wide angle for group shots, and zoom a little for closer work.

The minimum aperture is a measure of how much light is let into the lens. With a lower figure you can have a higher shutter speed, reducing the blur you might get in the picture. The Sigma 17-70mm has a value of f2.8, which is pretty good for low light work, and would be slightly better than the Canon 17-85mm, which is rated at f4. Depending on how much money you have you can go down to f1.2, with the average for a cheapish lens being f2.8 to f3.5.
Generally speaking for low light photography stick with f2.8 or lower.
I owned the aformentioned Sigma 17-70mm and it worked nicely and you can buy a second hand one for a tidy £180-200.

As far as flash is concerned, any picture taken with a compact camera in a nightclub with use a flash which will light up the foreground subjects in flat white light and leave the background black, I'm sure you've seen many pictures that either you or your friends have taken (here's a randomer from google!)
clubbing.jpg


You need an SLR that allows you to use the flash more creatively. If you get an off camera flash that fits on a DSLR you'll hopefully get pics that look a bit more like this:
xwphtk6lst8ng8lalo5he9f6_ktch9u.jpeg


Hope this helps, it's just a rough guide that I thought might be useful coming from a fellow club/bar/gig amateur photographer who was in a similar situation a year ago! :)
 
silverstar189 said:
I feel that tillate and dontstayin- it's your choice if you want to do it as a one off for the experience and all that, but they're making real money off your skills and hard work and not paying you anything in return. Don't be taken for a ride.
Click to expand...

I agree with what you are saying about tillate, they seem to be taking a lot from there togs and giving nothing back. Although dontstayin is pretty good if you aim to make money from club photography. You can basically build up a portfolio with gallerys from differant events. You can then when you think you are good enough, apply for "Pro Spotter" status. If you are accepted, you will be offered paid work from club promoters for doing it. Pretty good system imo!
 
Starting with a DSLR such as a Canon 400D as well as a Speedlite 430Ex/580Ex, would be the best starting point, insurance through someone such as photoguard would be relatively cheap as the value of the kit isn't very high.

Checking out somewhere light Dontstayin would be recommended as well, once you get good its easier to approach people or even get approached on the basis of your work.

Tillate works a little differently to Dontstayin, the photographers have a lot less say and control over their work and what they do.

Nightclub photography used to be the main type of photography that I used to do, apparently its harder to learn as of the lighting etc, best way to learn though is get some decent kit and play about till you find something you like. once you have learnt a bit more about what does what it will become easier.
 
itsdavedotnet said:
I'm not personally a massive fan of the whole dontstayin/tillate 'thing' of dragging the shutter as much as 1/10th, I just feel it's a bit...overused really, so prefer to burn in to about 1/40thand always aim/time for some form of backlighting from lights in the background, and then go for a -FeV'd flash through a stofen (to very slightly soften the light)

and then the editing, and a consistent editing style, is important too, as is the branding, detail shots, etc....
Click to expand...

dragging the shutter can be ok if used sparingly. i tend to use it for 2/3 shots in an albumn of 60. shutter speed determines the backlighting only really, flash captures the foreground. I thought i'd include all these little details so that the informations out there, rather than keeping it to myself. imho nightclub photography is much about being dependable and diplomacy skills with staff/customers as it is about photography. having a site come in like tillate for 1 week taking pictures does nothing to promote a club in real terms, what promoters need is week in week out coverage to up on bebo/facebook /myspace and all that stuff so that promoters can then send out promo offers/ info for events direct to people. having your event on the tillate site means people check it the next day, but doesn't give the promoters a chance to push any forthcoming events.

i'm glad to hear that dontstayin offer a channel to get into paid work, seems a bit more of a fair deal to me.

i'm not a rantmonger usually, just hate the idea that you've got companies out there getting rich off some good photographers, and not giving them a bean :nono:
 
silverstar189 said:
I feel that tillate and dontstayin- it's your choice if you want to do it as a one off for the experience and all that, but they're making real money off your skills and hard work and not paying you anything in return. Don't be taken for a ride.
Click to expand...

Add into the fact that the knobbers working for free week in week out churning out the garbage are also costing some people paid jobs.

OMG im getting free entry to a club, its well worth hammering my shutter etc.. for..etc.....

Regarding the OP, companies like pic-pal (also churning out utter drivel) use things like the finepix, you can get plenty of images on them to use, but it depends what you class as a useable standard and if your partner is wanting to use the pics in both online and print media. Photography for an event itself is about showing the event at its best, people dont realise it but the photos can do alot of good/bad for a clubs reputation, which is why if its quiet people who do entire dancefloor shots just make the club look utter rubbush.
 
itsdavedotnet said:
very very much this. I too earn some reasonable money from it, promoters realise the benefit of a reliable service with a good standard of work, rapport and networking with the customers, DJs and staff etc. Furthermore, dontstayin and tilllate can really lower the value of photography in the eyes of the beancounters - why hire a professional when you can get tillate to come and take a few snaps for free once in a while - fortunately, lots of promoters can realise that this actually does nothing for the club whatsoever :)
Click to expand...

You would be surprised still at the amount of promoters who wont pay good money for you when they openly kiss your arse about your work but are happy to moan and bitch about the behaviour/quality of images from tillate.

Money talks sadly.
 
fastworldimages said:
Add into the fact that the knobbers working for free week in week out churning out the garbage are also costing some people paid jobs.
Click to expand...

fastworldimages said:
You would be surprised still at the amount of promoters who wont pay good money for you when they openly kiss your arse about your work but are happy to moan and bitch about the behaviour/quality of images from tillate.

Money talks sadly.
Click to expand...

I, and my wallet, are both sadly all too aware of both of these things. Sadly, this isn't the place to getting into a weddings-esque style rant because the suitable target audience isn't here, so not good would come of it. Basically, tillate and dontstayin have devalued club photography to the point where I've 'generously' on several occasions been offered (say) £40 for a night's work and next day turnaround, editing and upload of images, along with the networking and facebook managment that goes with it. no thanks.

pay peanuts, get monkeys. if you don't like being a monkey, don't shoot for free. end of. It's very easy for a club or promoter to pay nothing for something that's pants, because it's...free.

anyway, sorry to take this thread waaaaay off track, back to the OP, good luck with helping our OH, it can be fun work, and a good way to get more involved with your OH's work :)
 
itsdavedotnet said:
I, and my wallet, are both sadly all too aware of both of these things. Sadly, this isn't the place to getting into a weddings-esque style rant because the suitable target audience isn't here, so not good would come of it. Basically, tillate and dontstayin have devalued club photography to the point where I've 'generously' on several occasions been offered (say) £40 for a night's work and next day turnaround, editing and upload of images, along with the networking and facebook managment that goes with it. no thanks.

pay peanuts, get monkeys. if you don't like being a monkey, don't shoot for free. end of. It's very easy for a club or promoter to pay nothing for something that's pants, because it's...free.

anyway, sorry to take this thread waaaaay off track, back to the OP, good luck with helping our OH, it can be fun work, and a good way to get more involved with your OH's work :)
Click to expand...

Its amusing when promoters want you to drive half way across the country for penuts (some even wanted me to shoot for free because 'tillate and dsi do'.... (its even worse when people want you to shoot for them in ibiza and wont pay a cent)

I swear people think you pull camera gear out of your arse...

Thankfully I managed to nick a rather big client from tillate though :lol:
 
Lucy J said:
Ok... whats a DLSR? lol sorry TOTAL beginner...

The spec for the camera is as follows:

Fuji - £199
Explore the power of the FujiS1500 and take photographs that will last a lifetime.

This Fuji digital camera offers you complete creativity with full manual photographic control. You'll love the sheer variety of scenes and settings that can be tweaked to achieve perfection.

• a digital compact camera that includes the features of a DSLR, the Fuji S1500 delivers the best of both worlds
• get up close and personal with the 12x super zoom lens
• auto focus tracking ability means moving targets, like children, are easily captured and stay in focus
• manipulate settings like ISO speed, quality and colour to fine-tune your shots
• 10 megapixel resolution
• 2.7in LCD screen
• 12x super zoom lens
• 50MB integrated memory
• dual-image stabilisation and auto focus tracking
• face detection with automatic red-eye removal
• AA batteries
• Black.

Number of effective pixels
10.0 million pixels

CCD sensor
1/ 2.3-inch CCD

Storage media
Internal memory (Approx. 23 MB) / SD memory card / SDHC memory card

File format
Still image: JPEG (Exif Ver 2.2*3) Movie: AVI (Motion JPEG) with sound WAVE format, Monaural sound (Design rule for Camera File system compliant / DPOF-compatible)

Lens
Fujinon 12x optical zoom lens, F2.8 (Wide) - F5.0 (Telephoto)

Lens focal length
f=5.9 - 70.8mm, equivalent to 33 - 396mm on a 35mm camera

Focus
Auto focus (Area, Multi, Center, Tracking) / Continuous AF AF assist illuminator available

Focus distance
Normal: * Wide: Approx. 40cm / 1.3ft. to infinity * Telephoto: Approx. 1.5m / 4.9ft. to infinity Macro: * Wide: Approx. 5cm - 3m / 2.0in. - 9.8ft. * Telephoto: Approx. 80cm - 3m / 2.6ft. - 9.8ft. Super Macro: * Approx. 2cm - 1m / 0.8in. - 3.3ft.

Shutter speed
(Auto mode) 1/4sec. to 1/2000sec., (All other modes) 8sec. to 1/2000sec.

Aperture
Wide: F2.8 - F6.4, Telephoto: F5.0 - F8.0, max 5 steps in 1/3 EV increment

Sensitivity
Auto / Auto(800) / Auto(400) / Equivalent to ISO 64 / 100 / 200 / 400 / 800 / 1600 / 3200 / 6400 (Standard Output Sensitivity) * ISO 3200/6400: 3M pixels or lower (Number of recorded pixels)

Exposure modes
Programmed AE, Aperture Priority AE, Shutter Priority AE, Manual

White balance
Automatic scene recognition. Preset: (Fine, Shade, Fluorescent light (Daylight), Fluorescent light (Warm white), Fluorescent light (Cool white), Incandescent light), Custom

Viewfinder
0.2-inch, Approx. 200,000 dots, FLCD monitor (R/G/B colors are displayed in a single dot), Approx. 97% coverage

LCD Monitor
2.7-inch, Approx. 230,000 dots, TFT color LCD monitor, Approx. 97% coverage

Self-timer
Approx. 10 sec./ 2 sec. Delay

Video Output
NTSC / PAL selectable

Digital Interface
USB2.0 High-Speed

Power source
4xAA type alkaline batteries(included) / 4xAA type Ni-MH rechargeable batteries(sold separately) / 4xAA type lithium batteries (sold separately) / DC coupler CP-04 with AC power adapter AC-5VX(sold separately)

Dimensions
102.5(W) x 73.0(H) x 67.8(D)mm / 4.1(W) x 2.9(H) x 2.7(D)in. (excluding accessories and attachments)

Weight
Approx. 324g/11.4oz. (excluding accessories, batteries and memory card)

Digital Zoom
Approx. 5.7x (max.)

Shooting modes
Mode dial: Auto, SR Auto, SP, P, S, A, M, C, Panorama, Movie SP:Portrait, Landscape, Sport, Night, Night (Tripod), Natural Light, Fireworks, Sunset, Snow, Beach, Museum, Party, Flower, Text

Movie recording
Movie: 640 x 480 pixels (30 frames/sec.), 320 x 240 pixels (30 frames/sec.) with monaural sound

Playback
Slideshow, Face Detection (with Red-eye removal), Trimming, Single frame and Multi-frame playback (with Micro thumbnail), Sorting by date, Image rotate, Voice Memo, Histograms (Highlight warning)

Voice memo
Up to 30 sec. WAV format
Click to expand...


Isnt this a toy ?

I dont think using this (using the term lightly) camera, will get any decent results ?

i might be wrong, its just you have pointed out allot of spec here but i think i go to the argos site and get some 'SPEC' from any thing .. to get good real pics of a night club i think you need a real camera with a good prime lens... i might be wrong though..

OR maybe a good lens with a decent flash and bang up the iso .. yet again i might be wrong .. consumer cameras are fun ...
 
TBH I thought they were both the same - take the copyright and not pay




roscopico said:
Tillate works a little differently to Dontstayin, the photographers have a lot less say and control over their work and what they do.
Click to expand...
 
Also tillate have a magazine now.
One of the editors said to me at the summer send me a email and maybe we can get you to do stuff.
I was like if I dont get paid Im not interested sorry.
He turned around and said it was ok and that there was a massive amount of pictures he could get for free and why pay for them for Sweet FA.
 
konastab01 said:
Also tillate have a magazine now.
One of the editors said to me at the summer send me a email and maybe we can get you to do stuff.
I was like if I dont get paid Im not interested sorry.
He turned around and said it was ok and that there was a massive amount of pictures he could get for free and why pay for them for Sweet FA.
Click to expand...

What's the score with public liability with tillate? Do they even have any for the photographers they use? Although that would involve some expenditure on their part....
 
silverstar189 said:
What's the score with public liability with tillate? Do they even have any for the photographers they use? Although that would involve some expenditure on their part....
Click to expand...

As far as im aware they have no coverage, you F'up its your issue.

konastab01 said:
Also tillate have a magazine now.
One of the editors said to me at the summer send me a email and maybe we can get you to do stuff.
I was like if I dont get paid Im not interested sorry.
He turned around and said it was ok and that there was a massive amount of pictures he could get for free and why pay for them for Sweet FA.
Click to expand...

m8 was a crap mag anyway tbh, tillate are funny though, pay nothing for photos then use them to sell a mag yet the 'photographers' are still happy to do it week in week out lol! its ok to do it for a few weeks to learn the industry, meet promoters and generally see how to behave, but week in week out workers are just idiots imo.

Mixmag also own DSI so they have a nice little photo data base to pick from.
 
silverstar189 said:
What's the score with public liability with tillate? Do they even have any for the photographers they use? Although that would involve some expenditure on their part....
Click to expand...

looking at the tilllate site, they _require_ their photographers to work 4 nights a month... and yet the position is unpaid.

I would strongly suspect that this is plain illegal under national minimum wage rules.

NMW is £5.80 - the main rate for workers aged 22 and over
£4.83 - the 18-21 rate.
If you were working for free, or below this rate, then the employer was breaking the law.

tilllate website said:
Working as a tilllate.com photographer is a voluntary position which is unpaid. However, you receive free admission to any event where you are photographing and may enjoy other benefits such as free drinks and VIP area access at the event organiser’s discretion.
Click to expand...

so you're required to turn up and do a job... for free. this may stink of NMW violation. The work can't be called an 'internship' or work experience becuase it's blatantly not...and the work experience card only works if it's part of a recognised course. Only way I can see them getting round it is them 'hiring' your services as a self employed person - but this could still be very dubious and I'd like to see it tested in court... IANAL however and haven't read the contracts that they get people sign - though even if those contracts are in place, even if the person has signed saying they'll work for free, the NMW still applies.

You're making money for people, for absolutely no reward for yourself other than maybe a couple of drinks (yay... wouldn't be surprised if tilllate etc photogs aren't allowed to drink alcohol on the job either). And to make it worse, you're taking paid work and a living away from people who find the need to eat, have a house, clothes etc, and as such require money for the work that they do. Not everyone can live on air, VIP area passes (woo, how...exciting >_>) and vague thanks from promoters. As far as I can make out, they don't even pay your expenses, and from what I can tell there's no insurance for public liability or your camera kit either. Please feel free to correct me on these points or anything in this post.

'uh, but its work experience or training for our advanced, paid positions'

If it is just "shadowing" or the work experience is part of a course, for a full time student only, organised by the relevant academic institution and is a required part of that course (i.e the student has to do the work experience to pass) then people on work experience or internships need not be paid the NMW. The National Council for Work Experience say this:

"Government legislation in respect of the National Minimum Wage means that UK employers can no longer offer unpaid work experience, unless they are doing it as part of their course"
Click to expand...

The NMW rules re volunteers are designed to deal with the issue of clubs and charities who may have people who give their time freely and without obligation. Someone on work experience is not a volunteer if they are given tasks to carry out, set hours, set meal breaks, appear on a call sheet or are doing tasks that a paid member of staff would otherwise be doing. That is work, and that must legally be paid the NMW. As the PACT rules state (rewritten after a meeting with the DTI) "A work experience person who...is expected to obey instructions should be paid at least the national minimum wage".
Click to expand...

this could appear to be what is happening here.

If you have worked for dontstayin or tilllate as a 'volunteer', your employer (if at any time you were on a rota, had to arrive at a certain place at a certain time, were given tasks to do, or were doing the work that people were being paid to do - ie their 'pro' spotters and the like, then in the eyes of the IRS they may have been your employer) has may have been breaking the law, and you may be entitled to shop them to inland revenue using this complaint form here and you may well be able to receive pay for the time that you worked. You can do this anonymously, there are also helplines and paper forms you can fill in instead to launch an investigation.

If anyone has worked for tillate, or has a copy of the contract that they make you sign, if you are allowed to show other people the contract, I would be very interested in studying it, in complete confidence.
 
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