Motorbikes

Mr Bastable said:
It's not leather.
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Some of the textile trousers (including jeans) are as abrasion resistant as leather. I have an armoured and kevlar infused hoodie that's fine when moving but soddinot (technical term!) at a standstill. Might have to dig out the very perforated (as in ventilated, not worn through!) leather jacket and see if I can get it done up!
 
Nod said:
Some of the textile trousers (including jeans) are as abrasion resistant as leather. I have an armoured and kevlar infused hoodie that's fine when moving but soddinot (technical term!) at a standstill. Might have to dig out the very perforated (as in ventilated, not worn through!) leather jacket and see if I can get it done up!
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'Some' being the operative word. I have RST Kevlar Tech Pro Aramid fibre jeans and have found them to be very good, if I were sliding down the road on my arse I'd still rather have leather between me and the road :)
 
Mr Bastable said:
'Some' being the operative word. I have RST Kevlar Tech Pro Aramid fibre jeans and have found them to be very good, if I were sliding down the road on my arse I'd still rather have leather between me and the road :)
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Leather is hard to beat for abrasion resistance but I found even my perforated Dainese stuff just got too hot above about 25c. I sold it soon after leaving the US to come home.

I have a selection of stuff for different seasons and was out yesterday morning wearing my Spidi Mesh jacket and trousers and I have Held Kangaroo leather vented gloves.

I recently picked up a set of lined jeans, Resurgence Pekev Cafe Racer Jeans - Raw Blue which would have been too warm yesterday. It's taken a long time for me to have confidence in 'jeans' but the recent grading system has won me over. They are very comfortable to wear on and off the bike and I generally wear my Triumph Elvis leather jacket with them.

I always wear a back protector and protectors in the usual places.
 
No leathers since I started riding again. Warm weather; 2 pairs of Aa rated jeans and Merlin textile or riding shirt.
Cooler/wet weather; wax jacket and Oxford textile bib n brace.
I’ve ‘tested’ textile jackets a couple of times now and am confident they work, no wish to test the AA rate jeans tho
 
from bottom to top i wear either sidi race boots when dry or sidi adventure boots when wet( as they are gortex)i like the security of leather trousers plus they are tighter and support my knee better,ive rode in jeans and ddint like it, i have a leather jacket but i use fabric jackets, i have 2 one is laminated and waterproof, the other has better ventilation as it has panels in the front that i can unzip, carbon helmet, HJC RAPHA 70, carbon so its light and its actually quite well ventilated, unless its hot like weve had for the past couple of days my head gets really cold when the top vent is open , it has a drop down internal visor so if i want a bit more ventilation through the front my eyes are still protected
 
I had to get new cheek pads for my neotech 2 helmet, £59.99 :headbang:

A clear visor was £75.99!!! I didn't get one.

Add those together and you could nearly get Caberg Tourmax helmet ffs!!!
 
Soaking wet from my ankles to my ass, but very happy. :)

My walking waterproofs can't deal with more than a shower, it would seem.
 
Richa over trousers have been good to me :)
 
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Can anyone recommend a decent degreaser for getting chain lube from wheel rims and hubs and rear end parts?
Have tried jizer and gunk but the formulas have changed to make them more environmentally friendly and they won’t shift grease and just leave white stains all over anything black.☹️
 
Yelkrub said:
Can anyone recommend a decent degreaser for getting chain lube from wheel rims and hubs and rear end parts?
Have tried jizer and gunk but the formulas have changed to make them more environmentally friendly and they won’t shift grease and just leave white stains all over anything black.☹️
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WD40 on a rag.
 
LCPete said:
Is it ok for painted/powdercoated surfaces?
Like for example swinging arm and frame :)
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I've been using it all over with no problem.

The info. suggests no potential issues.

Error 410 | Screwfix

Thousands of products at low trade prices | FREE next day delivery available | 30 day money back guarantee on all orders.
www.screwfix.com www.screwfix.com
 
simon ess said:
I've been using it all over with no problem.

The info. suggests no potential issues.

Error 410 | Screwfix

Thousands of products at low trade prices | FREE next day delivery available | 30 day money back guarantee on all orders.
www.screwfix.com www.screwfix.com
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Thanks that sounds sounds perfect for cleaning back end of the bikes
I used to use paraffin but it’s harder to get nowadays
 
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stevewestern said:
B&Q and amazon both sell paraffin if you can't find it locally
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simon ess said:
I get paraffin for cleaning the chain from B&Q.

It has got expensive though.
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Thanks I’ve gone for the cleaner from whicks hopefully that should do the job
I’ve been trying a different chain lube it’s more messy than the wurth dry chain lube
 
I use the wurth dry lube and have often wondered if it's any good and how much to use - a wet lube you can see how much you've put on.
I'm not a big fan of cleaning bikes so enjoy the lack of dry lube mess which is the main reason I started using it.
 
Screwfix No Nonsense Chainsaw oil. Perfect!

Can you tell I'm a fan of this range. :)

Back in the day, before O ring chains and the like, I used to oil the chain if and when I remembered. My mates were the same.

I'm certain that most of the products for cleaning and lubing represent the triumph of marketing.
 
stevewestern said:
I use the wurth dry lube and have often wondered if it's any good and how much to use - a wet lube you can see how much you've put on.
I'm not a big fan of cleaning bikes so enjoy the lack of dry lube mess which is the main reason I started using it.
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One spray round the outside and one round the inside. Start at the split link (if there is one, if not, tie a piece of wool through a link so you have a start/finish point. If you trust the bike's balance on the centre stand (or other support), tickover in 1st is about right.
 
simon ess said:
Screwfix No Nonsense Chainsaw oil. Perfect!

Can you tell I'm a fan of this range. :)

Back in the day, before O ring chains and the like, I used to oil the chain if and when I remembered. My mates were the same.

I'm certain that most of the products for cleaning and lubing represent the triumph of marketing.
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Oh is that ok for oring chains as well ?
Even if it isn’t could still use it on my Yamaha LC that chain isn’t an oring one
 
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LCPete said:
Oh is that ok for oring chains as well ?
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Absolutely.

You don't need much. I brush it on fairly generously then run the chain through a rag to wipe off excess. If you then leave it overnight it hardly flings at all and the chain stays lubed for ages.
 
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simon ess said:
Absolutely.

You don't need much. I brush it on fairly generously then run the chain through a rag to wipe off excess. If you then leave it overnight it hardly flings at all and the chain stays lubed for ages.
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Thanks that’s sounds good I’ll give it a try :)
 
i used to put 80w gear oil in my scott oiler, but nowadays i tend to use a spray on after i clean the chain, i do it after a ride as the chain is hot, but leave it to cool before riding again
 
Things that real motorbikes have but ditchpumps lack! :P
 
Nod said:
One spray round the outside and one round the inside.
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I spray the inside of the chain then spin the wheel to spread the lube then leave til the next ride. If the chain looks ok then I don’t re-lube the chain. I was recommended muc off wet lube but find it flings off and sticks better to the back wheel so will try another.
Plutoline always used to be good.
 
I’ve swapped from the meteor to the interceptor and so now have spoked wheels. I’d forgotten what a joy they are to clean:(
 
Yelkrub said:
I spray the inside of the chain then spin the wheel to spread the lube then leave til the next ride. If the chain looks ok then I don’t re-lube the chain. I was recommended muc off wet lube but find it flings off and sticks better to the back wheel so will try another.
Plutoline always used to be good.
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That’s exactly what I found I’ve normally been using the wurth dry chain lube which is excellent if expensive, tried the muck off lube and it comes off and makes a mess of the back wheel
 
Having seen how grubby the Speedmaster was during a quick nip round to a barbecue yesterday, I spent most of this morning wearing my fingers out with Autosol. Just the 'zorsts and wheels left to do, when I get round to it! Much rather ride than polish!!!
 
Are all 3 Square Fours?
 
simon ess said:
That's fantastic! Are you going to use it?
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It's a lovely bike, but I don't have the time or knowledge to do it up and run it. I do recall going on the pillion of this one when I was a nipper. But being a classic bike enthusiast is a full time hobby and as I play guitar / write / draw (*) / take photos / go fishing then I couldn't really commit to it. I shall stick to my Kawasaki, much as I'm tempted.

(*) I like your sketches and scribbles, by the way.

Nod said:
Are all 3 Square Fours?
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Yes. He had quite a collection. Most in crates now...

Here he is on an Ariel combination back in 1954


Dad 1954.jpg

Cheers Derek
 
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