Macro flash advice

Tacey

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Stacey
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Hi guys :)
So my grandparents have just very kindly sent me a best wishes card for my exams, along with a cheque for £100 :love: :love: :love:

I really want to spend it on enhancing my macro set up, at the moment I am using tubes (on my 400d) which I'm happy with, but for light I only have the built-in flash which does not exactly do a great job. I'm thinking maybe a ring flash would be the best/cheapest way to improve on this. I've been looking on ebay/amazon and there's so many different ones... !

Can anyone recommend a decent ring flash for my £100? Or have any other ideas/advice?

Thanks :)
 
I think (for the money) you might be better getting a Yongnuo flash and a bracket to get it off the hotshoe and down towards the business end of things.
Just my opinion......

Bob
 
Marumi ring flash is about the only one around budget - £120. I've seen what looks to be an identical product for less though, on Amazon/ebay
 
For what its worth - this is what i used on my panasonic and now on my d5100 (cannot remember where the idea came from but its not mine - but it does work)

This is the macro 'set up' and procedure i use on the panasonic:-

Overall pic of the kit

cam1.jpg


from the top down - My home made pringles diffuser attached to a non dedicated flash gun (ie the camera cannot control the flash output or detect and ensure correct exposure) . The camera with a raynox dcr-250 macro lens clipped to the font of the lens. The Manfrotto slide sitting between camera and tripod . Electronic wire remote shutter release is dangling.

The most important part of the kit - The pringles diffuser

cam2.jpg


Because i'm working very close to the subject the built in flash is not usable and a standard external flash gun cannot be angled correctly and also is far too bright even at small apertures - what is needed is a close diffused flash and pringles do the trick . I cut a square hole in the bottom of a pringles tube just big enough to take the flash head - than cut the top down at a slight angle - making the tube short enough to suit the distance from flash head to front of lens. used the plastic top of the pringles tube to make a diffuser (its translucent) stuck it on with sellotape blue peter style. (the bottom and inside of a pringles tube is aluminium and ideal to 'bounce' the flash down to the diffuser).

The Raynox macro close-up lens

cam3.jpg


Because my panasonic does not have interchangeable lenses i have to use a close up lens on the front of the camera lens - these raynox lenses are about the best. They clip on to the filter screw with the supplied adapter or can be screwed in with a suitable step up/step down ring. The lenses give max enlargement when used with the cameras max zoom - in my case 420mm. Like all close ups they produce a very limited depth of field (DOF) .

Procedure

Macro photography can be a bit hit and miss without some very expensive kit - i try to do it on a bit of a shoestring - as you will by now be aware. The basic minimum spec that i would recommend for the camera you use is :-

Aperture control on the camera. (aperture priority AE mode).
Manual focus.
hot shoe for ext flash gun.

You can of course get great pictures without, but it becomes even more hit and miss and the macro setting on a standard camera is not really macro - its more close up so check what the minimum focus distance is and keep to it - the dof will still be small and you may not have control on what the camera is focussing on.

I either find a suitable subject or drag the kit to where a subject may turn up - patience is very useful here as the object of your desire may be elusive - bugs / spiders etc are a bit territorial and if you find a good subject and he/she goes away chances are they will return! sometimes next week!!!!! i have found just a few granules of sugar good for keeping them happy/and/or attracting them - caterpillars are usually on their source of food and don't travel very fast.

Always set the camera to the smallest aperture (in my case its f11) F16 would be better.

For best quality and to combat in-camera noise (speckles) set camera to iso 100 or 200.

Set the camera for external flash on manual control (at its lowest, least powerful *setting if that is possible).

Set the flash to its lowest power (im lucky with mine i have an option for 1/16 full power) or M - If pictures come out consistently overexposed - use the auto setting and experiment with the asa/iso setting - the higher the iso setting the less powerful the auto flash will be but remember the flash in auto is trying to read the subject and will not see what you see through the viewfinder.

THE FLASH SETTING IS THE MOST HIT AND MISS BIT AND ONLY BY EXPERIMENTING WILL YOU FIND A SETTING THAT SUITS THE CAMERA WHEN TAKING MACROS - BUT ONCE YOU FIND IT - ITS PROBABLY OK FOR ALL MACROS YOU DO.

Take time to get manual focus correct - if you haven't got manual focus make sure you are out side the minimum distance.

Caterpillar

hairy3.jpg


hairy4.jpg


This little chap/chapess only has a DOF of about 1/4 inch and even with the manfrotto slide was tricky to focus on as he was wriggling a bit. I saw him inching his way up a stem and set up the camera and focussed on the end of the leaf he was making for - got him mostly focussed with manfrotto then with a bit more manual focus then more tweaks with manfrotto - pressed the release but still he moved a tad - took several like this and none were IMO that good - anyway after his feed off he went and i packed up!! patience is definately what you need. Its worth doing though.

DONE POSTING FOR TIME BEING BUT MAY RETURN IF I FIND OR ANYONE POINTS OUT GLARING ERRORS OR NEED MORE CLARITY! DARK ROOM FOR ME NOW!
 
Gosh that was a very long and detailed answer! Thankyou very much for your help, and for showing your set up as well. I think I'l definitely be going with the flash gun instead of the ring, I guess it will have more uses than the ring anyways.

I've been doing a little macro with my tubes for a while now, but the built-in flash isn't really giving me the results I want. It's okay if I'm outside in bright light...

058-5.jpg


but if it's not sunny the the detail in my images seems to turn to mush...! Which I assume is because the flash is not really reaching down to the end of the tubes....

016-8.jpg


Now I just need to work out which to buy...!
 
I have one and have used it for other purposes than macro. I used it for fill in flash on some portrait attempts. What's good is that you can turn the power right down and select left or right half only. That means if you have someone who's stood next to a bright window you can gently fill in the dark shadow side of the face.
I've also bought some Meike extension tubes for a similar price to play with, they are made of a composite material but have signal pass through so autofocus still works.
 
I have one and have used it for other purposes than macro. I used it for fill in flash on some portrait attempts......
That makes a little more sense Chris. The spec's for these things typically show a flash duration of 100mS which is quite long for macro shooting....a regular Speedlite flash pulse would be about 200x shorter at a more normally used power setting.

Bob
 
Well here is my new set up! A yongnuo 565ex with a pringles pot, wrapped in gaffa tape and lined with tin foil. :)
Sorry it's such a rubbish picture I took it with my phone.
295094_10150864332030310_604940309_12068437_429715853_n.jpg


And here is a few pictures I took trying it out for the first time... only quick ones cause the batteries were about to run out.

024-5.jpg


033-6.jpg
 
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I got one of these http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Macro-Rin...ories_CameraFlashUnits_JN&hash=item3a736101cf and you'd still end up with enough change for a nice after exam drink.

It's fantastic and fits like a glove on my 100 f2.8 L Macro with one of the step up rings that make it usable on other lenses for portrait photography as well. It gives a powerful enough flash for almost anything indoors and all macro outdoors. The ring itself moves all round allowing you to get close enough to the subject even if it's in an awkward position. I've seen these advertised up to £140 in various photo magazines so the above one is a steal at that.
Most of the LED ring flashes are simply underpowered or they cause over exposure due to the length of time they light up, and some of them are too big and bulky to get into some of the positions needed for that 'special shot'

Good luck with your exams and good luck with your photography.
 
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That looks the business Stacey. A little warning....don't pop off too many shots without allowing a little cooling off time now that the head has restricted air flow around it.

Bob
 
I have one the for Marumi ring flashes and picked it up for around £100. I have been very happy with it and use it for all my macro shots. I have found you do have to reign in its power a bit with Flash Exposure Compensation when you get very close to your subject as it can be a bit bright.
A couple of example shots...




D'oh didn't see you had bought a flash :-) I have a few Yongnuo flash guns for my waterdrop shots, mine are the cheapo manual ones but they have never let me down yet.
 
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Well here is my new set up! A yongnuo 565ex with a pringles pot, wrapped in gaffa tape and lined with tin foil. :)
Sorry it's such a rubbish picture I took it with my phone.
295094_10150864332030310_604940309_12068437_429715853_n.jpg


And here is a few pictures I took trying it out for the first time... only quick ones cause the batteries were about to run out.

024-5.jpg


033-6.jpg

Was shot done using the Pringles tube ?
 
Those shots were with the pringles tube diffuser yes, if that's what you're asking :)

yep that's what I was asking if it was the pringle diffuser.
I did throw one any 2 weeks ago ! ! !
Next time I get some pringles I will have a go at making a diffuser
 
Think I may have to buy some Pringles :)
Been using a wireless trigger to fire my flash and optical trigger on another If I want two lights. Set up shots are fine as I can set the flashes where I want them, but on teh move it involves holding the camera in one hand and a flash in the other while trying to focus. I had considered a mounting bracket, but the Pringles tube seems to do the job.
 
yep that's what I was asking if it was the pringle diffuser.
I did throw one any 2 weeks ago ! ! !
Next time I get some pringles I will have a go at making a diffuser

Think I may have to buy some Pringles :)
Been using a wireless trigger to fire my flash and optical trigger on another If I want two lights. Set up shots are fine as I can set the flashes where I want them, but on teh move it involves holding the camera in one hand and a flash in the other while trying to focus. I had considered a mounting bracket, but the Pringles tube seems to do the job.

It's working well for me :) Had to line it with tin foil though, wasn't getting enough light until I did that.
 
It's working well for me :) Had to line it with tin foil though, wasn't getting enough light until I did that.

I have used my EX580 MKII for macro shot's and it is just to powerful even when I step the power down to is lowest setting.
So I started moving the flash further away from the subject and this opens up the problem of remote flash connections.
I purchased a cord, started using the wireless option on my 7D & 580MKII. This does not work if I have the flash behind my DSLR,...aaarrrrrrrr !
So the pringle tube, cheap option to explore and if it does not work I have only wasted my time !
Result :thumbs:
 
I have used my EX580 MKII for macro shot's and it is just to powerful even when I step the power down to is lowest setting.
So I started moving the flash further away from the subject and this opens up the problem of remote flash connections.
I purchased a cord, started using the wireless option on my 7D & 580MKII. This does not work if I have the flash behind my DSLR,...aaarrrrrrrr !
So the pringle tube, cheap option to explore and if it does not work I have only wasted my time !
Result :thumbs:

Cut out a square of plain white paper and BluTack it to the front of the flash. That will knock down the power a couple of stops.
 
I will give that a go ! :thumbs:

Flip down the wide-panel, that will lose a little light just by spreading the beam wider. You can then just tuck a strip of paper under it to reduce light further.
 
Flip down the wide-panel, that will lose a little light just by spreading the beam wider. You can then just tuck a strip of paper under it to reduce light further.

Wow,..such simple solution to a particular tricky problem.
I will try this as well.

Many thanks
 
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