Help me finish a film this evening (Poor) result added!

steveo_mcg said:
You'd probably need to work out the reciprocity adjustment, fast films aren't always the best idea when the exposure times gets to >60s.
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General advice tends to lean towards ISO 100 or lower for startrails to keep grain to a minimum
 
Asha said:
General advice tends to lean towards ISO 100 or lower for startrails to keep grain to a minimum
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(y) Actually same as digital too, the general consensus is to use lower ISO's due to the intrinsic grain of higher values adding to the grain induced by sensors when using long exposures.
 
Don't you run in to heat based noise on very long exposures though?
 
steveo_mcg said:
Don't you run in to heat based noise on very long exposures though?
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On digital? Yes, which is what I mean about the extra noise generated, hence stacking a lot of exposures is frequently preferred over a single long version, plus stacking allows more flexibility when light pollution is an issue.
 
Lemaildetom said:
I also recently use some superia 1600 iso thinking that something i want to look into for night picture. But to be honnest the result are very grainy and faded, i don't think this film would be any good for this kind of purpose.
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Nominally faster films can actually be slower films for night pictures depending on the length of the exposure, as they often have very poor reciprocity characteristics.
 
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Yv said:
On digital? Yes, which is what I mean about the extra noise generated, hence stacking a lot of exposures is frequently preferred over a single long version, plus stacking allows more flexibility when light pollution is an issue.
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Yeah taking a few frames out of a sequence would be handy, though I'm not sure I'd be happy leaving my >£3k camera out in a field overnight even if I was kipped near by.
 
steveo_mcg said:
Yeah taking a few frames out of a sequence would be handy, though I'm not sure I'd be happy leaving my >£3k camera out in a field overnight even if I was kipped near by.
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Indeed and stacked versions don't allow you to kip anyway, you need to keep pressing the remote [or be clever setting up continuous timelapse maybe] I know this is film, but to show how same applies across either medium, first link is a stacked images, about an hours worth of 30sec exposures, over the M25 [so ooooooodles of pollution that even an grad filter would have struggled to control on a single exposure] and the stacking software takes the important info from each frame and removes the unnecessary data, so the result is something that looks like a single frame, without of the light intrusion problems.

https://www.flickr.com/photos/wgi/11897842143/in/datetaken/

This is single 30 min exposure down at dungeness, heavily pp'd to remove the worse of the noise but it is still very apparent even in this small version imo.

https://www.flickr.com/photos/wgi/2...QeD-5bu8uf-5bu8qj-5bpPNK-5bu82h-5bpPCp-5bu7Qb


I now want to go somewhere very dark and do a star trail on film... soon...definitely soon
 
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steveo_mcg said:
Don't you run in to heat based noise on very long exposures though?
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Thé only noise thats related to my long exposures is me whining if i'm stood in a strong north easterly gale.....far from heat based:D
 
Yv said:
stacked versions don't allow you to kip anyway, you need to keep pressing the remote
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Intervalometer... Remote with a repeat and timer function - set the camera on bulb and let the remote deal with the "take 120 frames of 30 second duration" bit...

failing that, set the camera to "continuous shoot", set exposure time to 30 seconds, connect standard cable release, press the button and lock it... it'll keep shooting until the battery goes flat, or the card fills up.
 
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Yv said:
you are doing it again, getting all teknicul!! :lol:
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Is that what all you digi lot are gunna say in June when thé f&c gang explain how to take a REAL photo :D:D:D
 
Yv said:
Indeed and stacked versions don't allow you to kip anyway, you need to keep pressing the remote [or be clever setting up continuous timelapse maybe] I know this is film, but to show how same applies across either medium, first link is a stacked images, about an hours worth of 30sec exposures, over the M25 [so ooooooodles of pollution that even an grad filter would have struggled to control on a single exposure] and the stacking software takes the important info from each frame and removes the unnecessary data, so the result is something that looks like a single frame, without of the light intrusion problems.

https://www.flickr.com/photos/wgi/11897842143/in/datetaken/

This is single 30 min exposure down at dungeness, heavily pp'd to remove the worse of the noise but it is still very apparent even in this small version imo.

https://www.flickr.com/photos/wgi/2...QeD-5bu8uf-5bu8qj-5bpPNK-5bu82h-5bpPCp-5bu7Qb


I now want to go somewhere very dark and do a star trail on film... soon...definitely soon
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Very cool, didn't realise stacking could deal with that amount of pollution. Might have to look into it further.


TheBigYin said:
Intervalometer... Remote with a repeat and timer function - set the camera on bulb and let the remote deal with the "take 120 frames of 30 second duration" bit...
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Not sure my D3100 can do anything clever like that, really where the RB comes in handy. Set up in field during gale, open shutter, retreat to car for an hour.
 
Yv said:
remote shutter release and 'leica nipples'
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I'm assuming that you're on about those domed buttons that screw into the shutter release on a Leica and similar... they're just a little bit more comfy and easier to find than the standard release bit, which has a hole in it for the standard film "bowden cable" type shutter release...

ETA: ah, no you're not - you mean the ones that screw OVER the shutter release button on some of the early Leicas to let you use a standard cable release...
 
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steveo_mcg said:
Very cool, didn't realise stacking could deal with that amount of pollution. Might have to look into it further.
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There is a guy that used to post round here [check out tutorials, might still be there] that would do star trails in central London using the stacking method, just to prove it could be done.
 
TheBigYin said:
I'm assuming that you're on about those domed buttons that screw into the shutter release on a Leica and similar... they're just a little bit more comfy and easier to find than the standard release bit, which has a hole in it for the standard film "bowden cable" type shutter release...
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Aye, specifically, the shutter button on the beauty doesn't have the screw in hole, so you need an extra piece that goes over [a female instead of a male connector if you like] that allows the shutter button to be pressed by the cable thingy. Wondering more if there are different sizes/threads or if they are standard.
 
I couldn't say to be honest - as some of the early Yashica Mat TLRs , the screw-mount Leicas, and (IIRC) the Nikon F and F2 used them i'd hope that they are reasonably standard, but not having ANY of the cameras aforementioned, couldn't say definitively.
 
steveo_mcg said:
Not sure my D3100 can do anything clever like that
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If it'll take a cable release and allow you to set a shutter speed of 30seconds, use the second option I added to my post - though as an intervalometer IS really just a cable release as far as the camera is concerned, it should still work.
 
TheBigYin said:
If it'll take a cable release and allow you to set a shutter speed of 30seconds, use the second option I added to my post - though as an intervalometer IS really just a cable release as far as the camera is concerned, it should still work.
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TheBigYin said:
failing that, set the camera to "continuous shoot", set exposure time to 30 seconds, connect standard cable release, press the button and lock it... it'll keep shooting until the battery goes flat, or the card fills up.
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Sorcery!!

So how do you wind it on ;)



Edit: Looks like a basic intervalometer will work its just fancy stuff from the clever nikon remotes thtat don't.
 
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actually, on my EOS-3 it takes the same electronic cable release as the 7D, so my intervalometer will work nicely on the EOS-3 - I've occasionally used the intervalometer release on the 7D for taking self portraits - set it to do (say) 20 shots with a 5 second pause between firings and a 20 second initial delay to let me shuffle in front of the camera - the 5 second delay per frame giving me time to compose myself (or remember to look at the camera!) - so in theory I suppose I COULD do self-portraits on film if I wanted to run a roll or two of 35mm...
 
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