Help me design my studio.

Johnny Thunder

Johnny Thunder

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Hi guys.

I'm hoping you can advise me on how best to lay out my home studio with regard to the lighting and background when I finally go for it.
I have decided on the Lencarta 3 head system, but I am struggling when it comes to fitting it in. I was originally planning on a vinyl background
but after recent threads and some more research, I am now beginning to think that a Hilite type background and train may be more suitable.

This is my home cinema room, which will be doubling as a studio:


lighting1.jpg



As you can see from the diagram, my background will be sited on the top wall, or in the bay window. There are Roman style blackout blinds fitted to the windows.
The reveals either side of the chimney breast are pretty much unusable due to floor standing speakers, subwoofer etc.

There are also two items of furniture which need to be taken into account.
1. The sofa, measuring 1960x1070, which is currently on the left wall behind the door.(facing plasma mounted on chimney breast)
2. A disc storage unit measuring 840x840.

The disc storage unit could be placed in a corner, or probably removed from the room at a push, but the sofa needs to stay in there.


As things stand, my workable width is 2560. Length is pretty much 4465.


If I place the sofa in the bay(does not fit snug due to width) then my workable length is 3215. Width, however, opens up to 2820.



Using a vinyl background, I have to consider where I am going to place the two heads for lighting the background, and also how much workable space that
leaves me while avoiding casting shadows on the background.

I also do not want to limit myself to white backgrounds so this needs to be considered.


Hope you guys can help me out on this one. Please feel free to modify my layout diagram.



John.
 
Thinking some more about this, I am now seriously tending towards the Hilite:


lighting2.jpg



The two blacked out areas are the furniture.

The Hilite and train are marked out with the two heads used for lighting the hilite, also there are possible spaces for other lighting.



If I were to go for a vinyl background, could you please advise me as to where my background lights would be situated and what working area I would have?

Cheers.
 
Gary, it is a blank canvas at the moment. I don't have any kit.

This is all the various scenarios running through my head.:thinking:
 
Johnny Thunder said:
Gary, it is a blank canvas at the moment. I don't have any kit.

This is all the various scenarios running through my head.:thinking:
Click to expand...

I think you have already made some good choices. Hilite is great for portability and smaller spaces, it will control light spill much better, and also means your flashes don't end up IN SHOT which is a problem with restricted space.

The major drawback of the hilite is the train, apparently a nightmare to light properly, and whilst many here are able to process effectively, there is not getting away from the fact that all photos must still be processed. if you shoot 50 photos, you have to consider the not small task of processing the floor on each one.

This is where the reflective floor comes into play. I will post a photo shortly which is literally out of camera, using a system similar to a hilight (DIY softwall), and a reflective floor. My studio floor is 2.4 x 2.4 metre....

Give me 10 min.

Gary.
 
Out of camera other than a crop for composition:

whitebackdropnopp.jpg


Literally no processing. This gets me through the viewing, and if purchased I will process the photo properly. I would calm the exposure down a little, clean the smidgen of grey showing near his foot, and generally tidy it. I would probably test the white balance against a gray card reference from the shoot too.

G.
 
That is superb mate.

I hear what you are saying about the reflective floor, but this is a working living room. Is your flooring fixed, or can it be stored?

If I do go for the Hilite, how do I change things and go for a black/grey/red etc. etc background?

I would really appreciate your opinions on this Gary.:thumbs:


I would also appreciate the opinions of anyone who has used the FITP Hilites.
I understand that there are issues with lighting this background with strobes, but would I be able to make a more consistent background by using a couple of Lencarta heads with the FITP Hilite?


Cheers guys.
 
My reflective floor is not portable. It's a product called MULTI PANEL and is available from a company called Grant Westfield / It's on www.MultiPanel.co.uk - you wan't the High Gloss White.

The ONLY other solution I can think of is a roll up piece of see through plastic vinyl or perspex, there has to be somethiing.

With regards to the other colours, you could gel the lights in the Hilight, or my preferred option, simply buy a background support stand, and the roll of paper with the colour of your choice, be done with it. I understand space is a premium, ditto in my shop. But you need what you need basically....

For an example of a paper backdrop, I did this earlier today:
http://www.inspirephoto.co.uk/onGra...www.inspirephoto.co.uk/examples/Inspire14.jpg

But for better examples, check out Photochimp (Carl Davis), his work is stunning.
http://www.talkphotography.co.uk/forums/showthread.php?t=208878

Gary.
 
Cheers Gary. I will add the flooring to the list of investigations. I did notice you self portrait.:thumbs: Very good. Did you use a single background light for that shot?

If I decide to use background lights on a vinyl and add background reflectors from Lencarta, how close to the background can I place them?
 
Johnny Thunder said:
Cheers Gary. I will add the flooring to the list of investigations. I did notice you self portrait.:thumbs: Very good. Did you use a single background light for that shot?

If I decide to use background lights on a vinyl and add background reflectors from Lencarta, how close to the background can I place them?
Click to expand...

I tried and failed for three whole months with bg lights and reflectors so can't really advise :(

my self portrait, one light in a bowens octo 150, key light spills onto backdrop...
 
I agree with everying EG has said

I have the Hilite & train and it's a pain to get the train the same colour as the Hilite. It can be done (just about) with the right kit. I'm almost there...

The Hilite is black on the back so can be swapped around for a black background.
 
EdinburghGary said:
Out of camera other than a crop for composition:

whitebackdropnopp.jpg


Literally no processing. This gets me through the viewing, and if purchased I will process the photo properly. I would calm the exposure down a little, clean the smidgen of grey showing near his foot, and generally tidy it. I would probably test the white balance against a gray card reference from the shoot too.

G.
Click to expand...

hi Garry

If you have a hi lite and a reflective floor how do you join the two together, is it just a case of butting the two together and if so how do you lose the join?

Stringy
 
stringy said:
hi Garry

If you have a hi lite and a reflective floor how do you join the two together, is it just a case of butting the two together and if so how do you lose the join?

Stringy
Click to expand...

One of the hardest parts and this was my FINAL modification. My floor is actually raised about 1/2 a foot, and is also about 1.5 to 2 ft from the backdrop, so there is a large recess running between it and the hilight....

Now, if you don't nail your settings but get close, this will be where you still see some work needing done. All I can suggest is balancing your backdrop lights with your key lights, obsessively, and you will get it - it took me about 3,000 shots and well over a fortnight to get the last few tweaks in place.

You can see how fickle it is, look at the small smidgen of non blown material near his foot. So bloody hard to get it all done in camera.

G.
 
Rudesing said:
I agree with everying EG has said

I have the Hilite & train and it's a pain to get the train the same colour as the Hilite. It can be done (just about) with the right kit. I'm almost there...

The Hilite is black on the back so can be swapped around for a black background.
Click to expand...


Thanks Ruth. Do you have the Lastolite Hilite?
Are there any other manufacturers of Hilites that you know of?
 
I use a system based on the one Zack Arias descibed here. I have two Bowens 500s with barn doors. Both are flagged by using a super clamp and clip and a sheet of blac material. That assures the only light reacing the subject is reflected from the backdrop and not direct from the lights.

I use a roll of paper with two sheets of 2mm clear acrylic. The key light is a 750 bowens fired through a140x100cm softbox. THis gives a softish light and I position it as far back as possible(about 6-8 foot from subject) to keep the exposure as even as possible on the constanly moving subjects.

I am going to move to vinyl when this paper is wrecked as I can get it about 18 inches wider and it will last ages. Here are my kids for my latest test shot after I fitted the flags. I am pretty much there no and can almost show clients the photo with a quick crop and no more editing. For info the bottom of the frame(not the reflection) is 250,250,250 so not far from pure white. You can easily make that value white with a curves adjustment and it has little effect on the subject. If anything it adds a wee bit of needed pop.

IMG_02091.jpg
 
Here is another one. Exactly the same but either the two acrylic panels had moved slightly apart or I shot it from slightly higher. Note the line where the acrylic joins. Not too much of a problem but a pain when you have a hundred photos. Should have said Background F13, Subject F9, Back of subject pointing towards background F7.1. Not too much spill as long as the wee blighters stay on the front sheet of acrylic.
IMG_0207.jpg
 
Thanks for posting those Simon. Where did you get the acrylic from? Is the paper underneath?

John, sorry I didn't reply to your earlier question, completely missed it. I have the Lasolite Hilite and the only other supplier is Flash in the Pan, a member here. How are things going with your studio?
 
The paper goes underneath the acrylic, which is actually 3mm not 2mm as originally stated. I bought it from Robert Horne online and it cost £90 for the two sheets(8x4x2) including vat and delivery. They do get scratched but brasso will take most of the scratches out and scuffs etc wipe off pretty easily. At the time I had spent so much that I couldn't justify the extra £90 or so to get the Multipanel that Edinburgh Gary uses. I think that is the way to go but I do like being able to lift the acrylic up and use a different colour underneath.
 
Oooo different colours underneath - cool (in the very technical sense). I'm torn about the whole thing. With having the studio in the loft conversion I want the flexibility of being able to put everything away - and not need a 4-man team to do it!
 
Hi Ruth.

I have my lighting kit now, but I am still undecided upon the background.
At the moment I am tending towards stands and coloured rolls.
 
i use a roll of seamless paper and get perfect hi-key straight out of camera with 500w bowens lights and white walls.

just need to set your lights up correctly. hi-key is the most simple thing to do photographically imo.
 
Johnny Thunder said:
Hi Ruth.

I have my lighting kit now, but I am still undecided upon the background.
At the moment I am tending towards stands and coloured rolls.
Click to expand...

My only concern about this set up in your space (and hopefully someone more experienced will correct me if I'm wrong), is that you'll need the stand against the back wall, then lights either side to light the background (slightly in front of the background), which means you'll need one in the alcove (not sure if there is enough length to fit it in) and one in the doorway. I'm not sure you have the width to do it comfortably.

If you attach the rolls directly to the wall that gives you a bit more space but I'm not sure it's enough. But I may be wrong.
 
I understand what you are saying Ruth.
It is a real problem with a small space such as this.:bang:
 
I think you'll struggle to get decent controlled lighting minimising spill with rolls of paper. If you have the space, then they're great and flexible and relatively cheap. But as you're really tight for space, I don't think there's enough room for it to layed out correctly so that you're getting just the lighting you want.

A hilite may be an easier option and will give you what you need. The flash heads fit inside so there's no space required between the flash and the background. It's a more tightly integrated solution which will neatly fill in the relatively small space you have.

Having said that, I'm yet to get a hilite, but plan to go that way because when I've done shoots in people's houses for portraiture stuff, light spill has been just impossible to control. :)

Good luck!
 
Johnny Thunder said:
I understand what you are saying Ruth.
It is a real problem with a small space such as this.:bang:
Click to expand...

For all of us that are home based, we can never have a perfect studios and there is never a perfect solution. However, we can buy what we think is best and spend a few month (years) perfecting what equipment we've ended up with.

Personally, I think you'd do better with a Hilite but paper has benefits (more colour options, no floor/backdrop join) so if that's your preference you'll be able to do SOMETHING with it, just not what you'd achieve in a huge space.

Good luck with your decision
 
To be honest, I was thinking about rolls of material in various colours.
Probably starting with a grey.

:shrug::thinking:
 
John, I'd seriously think about sticking to the hilite. It'll be easier to control than having to light up rolls of paper using flashes set more in the room.

As I was a bit bored, I knocked up a quick sketch which can help. If you want the sketchup model, let me know :)

828544725_ZfaEB-L.jpg


828544755_ohMxK-L.jpg


I've obviously made assumptions on what your fireplace and sofa look like. Also added some sash windows :p
 
mart77 said:
i use a roll of seamless paper and get perfect hi-key straight out of camera with 500w bowens lights and white walls.

just need to set your lights up correctly. hi-key is the most simple thing to do photographically imo.
Click to expand...

If you could post a couple of 'out of camera' along with some wide angle shots showing your set up examples that would be great. You can never have too much information or too many ideas !
 
EdinburghGary said:
Out of camera other than a crop for composition:

Literally no processing. This gets me through the viewing, and if purchased I will process the photo properly. I would calm the exposure down a little, clean the smidgen of grey showing near his foot, and generally tidy it. I would probably test the white balance against a gray card reference from the shoot too.

G.
Click to expand...

Gary,

Your background lighting appears too bright and the subject over exposed to me. I would suggest losing a bit of the light and it appears a bit soft too but I'm no expert.
 
cowasaki said:
Gary,

Your background lighting appears too bright and the subject over exposed to me. I would suggest losing a bit of the light and it appears a bit soft too but I'm no expert.
Click to expand...

Cheers man,

I shoot way to the right on the histogram, it's the only way I can do it without processing for the viewing. Once a photo is purchased, I process properly.

I could knock half a stop or so off, and bring my floor back into contention, but that would be the lesser of my options in terms of CAMERA to VIEWING....in terms of softness, obviously as part of processing it would get a sharpen. This is 250/s f13 I suspect, so other than sharpening in post, not sure I can make it any better.

Saying all that, I have now decided to move my large octobox to a much higher position, much further away too...It has solved a lot of the over exposure problem....I will try and update with a shot from a shoot I had earlier today...

G.
 
EdinburghGary said:
Cheers man,

I shoot way to the right on the histogram, it's the only way I can do it without processing for the viewing. Once a photo is purchased, I process properly.

I could knock half a stop or so off, and bring my floor back into contention, but that would be the lesser of my options in terms of CAMERA to VIEWING....in terms of softness, obviously as part of processing it would get a sharpen. This is 250/s f13 I suspect, so other than sharpening in post, not sure I can make it any better.

Saying all that, I have now decided to move my large octobox to a much higher position, much further away too...It has solved a lot of the over exposure problem....I will try and update with a shot from a shoot I had earlier today...

G.
Click to expand...

What size of octobox do you use Gary?
 
EdinburghGary said:
Cheers man,

I shoot way to the right on the histogram, it's the only way I can do it without processing for the viewing. Once a photo is purchased, I process properly.

I could knock half a stop or so off, and bring my floor back into contention, but that would be the lesser of my options in terms of CAMERA to VIEWING....in terms of softness, obviously as part of processing it would get a sharpen. This is 250/s f13 I suspect, so other than sharpening in post, not sure I can make it any better.

Saying all that, I have now decided to move my large octobox to a much higher position, much further away too...It has solved a lot of the over exposure problem....I will try and update with a shot from a shoot I had earlier today...

G.
Click to expand...

I was worried you might take my post negatively but you obviously took it the way it was meant. Like I said I really am no expert as my studio isn't even finished and I have only had 1 day of tuition on the subject. I would be interested to see your alternative images. My love is for the opposite end of the histogram such as the shots I posted in nudes of Cassie on the Lencarta studio day. That is what I will be aiming for but I want the flexibility to get this type of shot too as this is what some people are wanting. The shots like this that I have taken so far I have had to use PS to finish!
 
examplee.jpg


Out of camera = for viewing only....


I would perhaps settle for -.25 of a stop, probably way to bright for some people still, but I am not a fan of middle or slightly under exposures, especially on white...I find over exposing a little adds pop once printed...esp when combo'd with a bucket of contrast!

This has simply had .25 of a stop removed:

example2v.jpg



G.
 
tfboy said:
John, I'd seriously think about sticking to the hilite. It'll be easier to control than having to light up rolls of paper using flashes set more in the room.

As I was a bit bored, I knocked up a quick sketch which can help. If you want the sketchup model, let me know :)

828544725_ZfaEB-L.jpg


828544755_ohMxK-L.jpg


I've obviously made assumptions on what your fireplace and sofa look like. Also added some sash windows :p
Click to expand...


What software are you using to do this:thinking:
 
cowasaki said:
I was worried you might take my post negatively but you obviously took it the way it was meant. Like I said I really am no expert as my studio isn't even finished and I have only had 1 day of tuition on the subject. I would be interested to see your alternative images. My love is for the opposite end of the histogram such as the shots I posted in nudes of Cassie on the Lencarta studio day. That is what I will be aiming for but I want the flexibility to get this type of shot too as this is what some people are wanting. The shots like this that I have taken so far I have had to use PS to finish!
Click to expand...

I understand totally what you mean Darren.
Gary, I personally loved the shot of yourself on the grey background. The hoody shots were fantastic too.
If I am honest i do prefer the non white background shots.
The problem is, everyone wants "them photos where everything is bright white"...!!!!!
 
There's been a few posts about the hilite recently.

Here's one from me. A different setup from normal and I lost a little contrast sooc but the train was much better.

Before
Jr_before-1.jpg


After (just a quick Lightroom edit - no Photoshop work)
Jr_after-1.jpg
 
EdinburghGary said:
This has simply had .25 of a stop removed:

example2v.jpg



G.
Click to expand...

Very nice pose Gary but the skin is way over exposed - Red is clipped badly and the GB values are very close to being clipped too.

I love your images but they are very bright - Just too bright .
 
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