Ford Focus ignition key barrel?

Box Brownie

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Hi all

My other half's sister has an issue or two with her 02 plated Focus.

1) the ignition key barrel apparently no longer has the first click step, turning the key immediately engages the starter and it starts OK. The independent garage she uses told her it is not a simple job to just swap out the barrel and said they have dismantled and and tried their best to 'repair it' but it is no better. In regard to swapping it out and replacing they told her along the lines "not that simple as changing that means making changes to other parts that it is connected to...." Does that make sense or are they pulling the wool over eyes!

2) She reported a loss of power most noticable for example when pulling away in right hand turn................all they said they did was replace the spark plugs but again not 100% clear if sorted out OK?

Any insights or thoughts welcome?
 
For point one, it probably wouldn't be that straight forward as I doubt they'd get a barrel that matches her key.

That being the case you're probably looking at a new barrel and lock set (front doors, boot and bonnet) and then get the new keys coded to the immobiliser. I'm not sure an independent garage would have necessary equipment to do this and a colleague of mine had this work done at a dealers about 10 years ago for the princely sum of around £400 (IIRC the lock set/keys was around £100 and the rest was 2-3 hour's labour).

2) Bit hard to gauge the level of power loss but plugs/leads/coilpack is a good place to start. If the car's never had the coilpack replaced then that would be my favourite part to be at fault. They've been known to fail on MK1s from as early as 40K-50K miles.
 
When I needed to replace the lock barrel on my Astra, I just ordered one with the correct key from the dealer. I did have to prove I owned the car though, then it was a fairly simple swap over. But parts were about £150 IIRC.
 
For point one, it probably wouldn't be that straight forward as I doubt they'd get a barrel that matches her key.

That being the case you're probably looking at a new barrel and lock set (front doors, boot and bonnet) and then get the new keys coded to the immobiliser. I'm not sure an independent garage would have necessary equipment to do this and a colleague of mine had this work done at a dealers about 10 years ago for the princely sum of around £400 (IIRC the lock set/keys was around £100 and the rest was 2-3 hour's labour).

2) Bit hard to gauge the level of power loss but plugs/leads/coilpack is a good place to start. If the car's never had the coilpack replaced then that would be my favourite part to be at fault. They've been known to fail on MK1s from as early as 40K-50K miles.

On such an old car maybe barrel and key and not bother with the doors i.e. two keys to use??? I think she was concerned about the labour they had used on the 'repair' it might have been better/cheaper to replace it?

In regard to power loss...........not sure if such an old car would have inbuilt diagnostics or maybe the garage does not have the kit to 'analyse' the issue but as you say stuff fails and they should know what to work on not IMO piecemeal approach!

When I needed to replace the lock barrel on my Astra, I just ordered one with the correct key from the dealer. I did have to prove I owned the car though, then it was a fairly simple swap over. But parts were about £150 IIRC.
I was thinking it would be that simple!
 
On such an old car maybe barrel and key and not bother with the doors i.e. two keys to use??? I think she was concerned about the labour they had used on the 'repair' it might have been better/cheaper to replace it?

In regard to power loss...........not sure if such an old car would have inbuilt diagnostics or maybe the garage does not have the kit to 'analyse' the issue but as you say stuff fails and they should know what to work on not IMO piecemeal approach!

I was thinking it would be that simple!

If a new barrel and new key is used, the key will still need to be coded to the immobiliser and this is where they might struggle.

Failing plugs/coilpacks are unlikely to show up anything in diagnostics checks unless the fault was that serious that he engine management light had been triggered.

I know when the coilpack went in mine it had deteriorated over a period of months. At first if you were in 5th and put your foot down there would be a delay, then a stutter before anything happened. As it progressed the same symptoms would show up at lower engine loads but at no point did any of this trigger any errors. You'd literally need a diagnostic box plugged in the whole time with someone monitoring it to see the problem.
 
A quick Google shows a guy building a new barrel to fit a key and installing it. Didn't look that difficult.
 
If you buy a keyed barrel, you don't need a new key. The inductive loop to pick up the chip in the key isn't changed.

Oh and for what it is worth, I couldn't see how it could be spark plugs, so had a quick google... sounds like there was a fairly common fuel pump issue / fuel filter problem too.
http://www.focusfanatics.com/forum/...t/226986-engine-stalls-sharp-right-turns.html
http://www.focusfanatics.com/forum/...ine-cuts-out-right-hand-turn-please-help.html

Yes, it *could* be the fuel pump but it *could* be ignition related which is a lot cheaper place to start ;)
 
An ignition barrel kit can be bought from Ford dealers. It is a universal kit you make up to suit your key so a new key won't be required. As far as the other issue, it could be a fuel filter although it usually materialises as starting issues. It could have been spark plugs but without knowing what they were like when they removed them no one is going to know for sure. Hooking up to a generic diagnostic computer will only give you a clue pf what is wrong, a Ford diagnostic will narrow it down further.
Have a look on Talkford forum in the mk1 Focus section. You are likely to find someone who has had similar problems and probably find a quicker answer
 
Life was easier with 1960s cars that used the Lucas barrels, where a worn key would operate any of them :D
 
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