Canon EOS R Series Cameras

[LCPete]

Anyone fancy the newly announced Canon RF 16-28mm f2.8 IS STM ?
Will be around £1200 but fits in the line up with the new 28-70 f2.8 IS STM, supposedly 'pro-sumer' range.
There's an idea that Canon will want to complete that line with a telephoto lens (maybe 70-150 f2.8) before they open up the mount to 3rd party full frame lenses.

View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JIko6BIc4qw

View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=auLMYP1Q4BY

Me neither, to be honest I’m not a fan of the way Canon is relying on software correction during post processing for recent RF wide angle lenses, apparently it works well but I’m old fashioned and would rather just have a lens that is sharp corner to corner with minimal distortion out of the box, like the older EF lenses

 

[hunnymonster]

(maybe 70-150 f2.8)

Or perhaps 70-200/2.8 which has been available for years...

 

[LongLensPhotography]

apparently it works well but I’m old fashioned and would rather just have a lens that is sharp corner to corner with minimal distortion out of the box, like the older EF lenses

"well" for what though..... Video would be one, where output is significantly downscaled from original resolution after the transformation is made. Or perhaps 45MP file down to 24MP, A3 or just anything under 12MP for web. That will hide it too very well. However, 2xMP as 2xMP will take a massive hit and even far worse 45 as 45 / A1... And it is not just rearranging the pixels as chairs on the deck of Titanic.. there is also charred black vignetting that needs pushing many many stops particularly wide open... again you just survive if you downsize a lot. Same will apply for 14-35mm f/4 which I have decided against because of this.

Notably not all of the RF lenses does the scaling thing. Maybe a third to a half. RF 15-35mm f/2.8 I believe does not. However vignetting on that thing is so ridiculous, like it managed to be even worse than EF III, which is also not good in that regard. MTF is also so so after you have seen the Sony GMII one. Hopefully there is RF mkII / Z out shortly even though I just probably won't be able to justify the cost. Now 14-30mm f/2.8 would get more exciting, A lot more... Presuming no digital stretching.

Or perhaps 70-200/2.8 which has been available for years...

the ebay option, which Canon would like you to forget. Realistically far far too heavy for most on here these days though... 1.8kg fully loaded. It is manageably but so many bitch about just 650g these days!!!!!
I believe Canon is replicating Sony G and / or perhaps Tamron so-called budget options, so expect a matching design... most likely a lightweight compromised edge and fully plastic 70-180mm f/2.8 non-L. OK 70-150mm is possible too. At that point the older RF 70-200mm f/2.8 non-Z simply has no more reasons to exist and would just get slowly sold out and discontinued.

Pretty much if you have the money and are stuck with RF you just get the Z lens today and that's that.

 

[TimHughes]

Anyone fancy the newly announced Canon RF 16-28mm f2.8 IS STM ?
Will be around £1200 but fits in the line up with the new 28-70 f2.8 IS STM, supposedly 'pro-sumer' range.
There's an idea that Canon will want to complete that line with a telephoto lens (maybe 70-150 f2.8) before they open up the mount to 3rd party full frame lenses.

View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JIko6BIc4qw

View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=auLMYP1Q4BY

I’m still very happy with EF 16-35 2.8 M3 and not tempted.

 

[taxboy]

I’m still very happy with EF 16-35 2.8 M3 and not tempted.

Me neither the 16-35 is a great lens

 

[Kieran_89]

Anyone here used the RF 24 1.4 and can share their thoughts?

 

[LongLensPhotography]

Anyone here used the RF 24 1.4 and can share their thoughts?

https://www.the-digital-picture.com/Reviews/Canon-RF-24mm-F1-4-L-VCM-Lens.aspx You only really need to look at the MTF.

I would say this is the only good 24mm Canon-compatible lens. Proper comparison would be with Sony, etc alternatives.

edit:

Hands-on Canon RF 24mm f/1.4L VCM review: a premium prime with a lot of camera correction

The ultra-wide Canon RF 24mm f/1.4L VCM hybrid lens completes its trio of super-fast prime lenses for stills and video

www.digitalcameraworld.com

this is not so positive. Crazy crazy distortion and stretching. Their comments on sharpness are not very inspiring.

I'm pretty happy with my Sigma ART 28mm f/1.4 with zero f***ery. It is obviously not 24mm but as close as it gets on Canon ecosystem. Notably the 24mm DG is nowhere near as good.

 

[ABTog]

Or perhaps 70-200/2.8 which has been available for years...

Yes the 70-200 has been available for years, but it seems like Canon might be following Sony & Tamron with some alternative zoom ranges, cut the focal length-cut the weight-cut the cost (a bit). There are plenty of people who have an RP/R8/R6 who don't have the need/budget for the L versions but would still like an f2.8 zoom. There's also plenty who don't want the hassle of using EF versions on an adapter. And those who would like options that are lighter.

I’m still very happy with EF 16-35 2.8 M3 and not tempted.

Fair enough. But I don't think a non-L lens is really competing with an L lens here.
If I had the EF version, the only reason I would change is a) to the RF L version for the same/better optics and not needing the adapter or b) to this new lens for reduced size/weight for carrying.
However, I don't have a wide at all (the RF24-105L is my widest) so this new lens would fulfill a need for me.

 

[Hanley]

I attended my first event with the R1 this weekend, despite owning it for a couple of months I've only used it at parkruns and a couple of other personal events in that time.
I was photographing Hyrox in Manchester on Friday, Saturday and Sunday.

Just before the event I'd ordered 2 new Manfrotto CF Express cards, as I've found them to work well and good value for money, but when I started on Friday evening the camera seemed to be freezing after taking a burst of images, when I had a gap in participants I took the Manfrotto card out and replaced it with one of my existing Sandisk cards, same was happening with that card as well.

After a bit of head scratching it turned out, after applying a firmware update, it looks like image review was turned back on and set for 2 seconds, so as I was doing a short burst it was trying to show me the last image for 2 seconds
It probably sounds stupid, but when you're in the thick of it, and you've got an arena full of participants, it's hard to realise the obvious until you've had a second to compose yourself and really think about it. It took me around 15 minutes to realise what was going on.

It was a long weekend, 4 hours Friday and 15 hours each on Saturday and Sunday, but over the weekend not only did I get to put the R1 through it's paces, with 45,000 images taken, I also got a chance to use my 2 new lenses and really test them, the RF 24-105mm 2.8Z and RF 70-200mm 2.8Z, and both were amazing as you'd expect.

The lighting in the arena is shockingly bad, so I knew it was going to be a good test for the R1's low light capability, Friday and Saturday was easier as I was using the RF 15-35mm and was very close to the subjects so I used a hot shoe mounted LED light, but Sunday when using the 24-105 and 70-200 that wouldn't have been any use at all.

None of these images have had any noise reduction applied (apart from Canon's own in camera as they were shot as JPEG).

Friday - Canon R1 with RF 15-35mm 2.8 plus a small Godox hot shoe mounted LED light

ISO 8000


ISO 16,000


ISO 25,600



Saturday - Canon R1 with RF 15-35mm 2.8 plus a small Godox hot shoe mounted LED light

ISO 20,000


ISO 25,600


ISO 40,000


Sunday - Canon R1 with RF 70-200mm 2.8 Z and no additional lighting

ISO 20,000


ISO 25,600


ISO 40,000


Sunday - Canon R1 with RF 24-105mm 2.8 Z and no additional lighting

ISO 20,000


Before anyone says, I know they're not perfect, not by a long shot, but in this particular arena, with the lighting being as bad as it is (and the organisers don't really like you using flash) you can only work with what you have, and the R1 definitely made it easier.

 

[George]

Not been on here for a while but I'm surprised there's not been any mention of the R5 mk2 battery issues, I'm not getting any life out of them at all and reading Canon Rumours there's a lot of people like me.
Any comments/help please?

 

[A_S]

Random question from me as well. I may be needing to get hold of the canon drop in polarizer for the big white primes.... but there doesn't seem to be much stock around.

I was wondering has anyone adapted another polarizer to work with the primes? I like the fact my hoya HDs transmit a lot more light (i forget whether it was 2/3 stop or 1 1/3) than the canon one which apparently looses 2 stops.

 

[George]

Random question from me as well. I may be needing to get hold of the canon drop in polarizer for the big white primes.... but there doesn't seem to be much stock around.

I was wondering has anyone adapted another polarizer to work with the primes? I like the fact my hoya HDs transmit a lot more light (i forget whether it was 2/3 stop or 1 1/3) than the canon one which apparently looses 2 stops.

Andrew, I've got shot of my big whites....too heavy at my age!!!) and I may have a polarizer left, if you can wait till end of next week I can check as I'm not at home just now...any good?

 

[A_S]

Andrew, I've got shot of my big whites....too heavy at my age!!!) and I may have a polarizer left, if you can wait till end of next week I can check as I'm not at home just now...any good?

Yes I can, just at the early stage of planning at the moment! That would be useful if you did!

 

[TimHughes]

Random question from me as well. I may be needing to get hold of the canon drop in polarizer for the big white primes.... but there doesn't seem to be much stock around.

I was wondering has anyone adapted another polarizer to work with the primes? I like the fact my hoya HDs transmit a lot more light (i forget whether it was 2/3 stop or 1 1/3) than the canon one which apparently looses 2 stops.

I have haida 52mm ND filters for the canon screw-in drop-in filter for the big whites. I guess you could screw in a polaizing filter then rotate...but that would be a bit clunky. another option if you have a mirrorless body would be to see if the RF to EF adapter with drop in filters have a polarizer option.

 

[A_S]

I have haida 52mm ND filters for the canon screw-in drop-in filter for the big whites. I guess you could screw in a polaizing filter then rotate...but that would be a bit clunky. another option if you have a mirrorless body would be to see if the RF to EF adapter with drop in filters have a polarizer option.

I would be getting the RF version so the EF/RF adaptor although a great idea wouldnt be an option. I thought maybe adapting the standard ND option to take a rotating wheel mechanism, unless you can remove the canon CPL and replace? not sure this is possible?

 

[robinsslee]

Not been on here for a while but I'm surprised there's not been any mention of the R5 mk2 battery issues, I'm not getting any life out of them at all and reading Canon Rumours there's a lot of people like me.
Any comments/help please?

What issues you've got? Mine is just as normal as my previous R5.

 

[George]

What issues you've got? Mine is just as normal as my previous R5.

I'm used to 1d series and although I appreciate the batteries are much smaller, they seem to discharge quite substantially if not used for a bit and for example I've got one in the camera just now which was fully charged a week ago, I've taken 26 shots and not much chimping, switched off when not using and it's showing 35%!!!!

 

[Brentor]

Not been on here for a while but I'm surprised there's not been any mention of the R5 mk2 battery issues, I'm not getting any life out of them at all and reading Canon Rumours there's a lot of people like me.
Any comments/help please?

I understand that the batteries discharge even when the camera is turned off. However I have not found this to be a big issue on my R7 and R6.

Perhaps try removing the battery when the camera is not in use.

 

[droj]

I understand that the batteries discharge even when the camera is turned off. .... However I have not found this to be a big issue on my R7 and R6.

Perhaps try removing the battery when the camera is not in use.

This has proved to be an issue with certain Lumix models too - however it is understood that if a body is left too long without battery inserted then its internal battery could suffer deep discharges / more cycling & be harder / more costly to replace. Better perhaps to treat the normal insertable batteries as sacrificial in that case?

 

[Vertigo1]

What issues you've got? Mine is just as normal as my previous R5.

That's reassuring as I've just orded a mk2. I've just got used to the R5 chewing through batteries when I moved from my old DLSR.

Going to NY in May so may well pick up some more batteries and memory cards at B&H.

 

[robinsslee]

I'm used to 1d series and although I appreciate the batteries are much smaller, they seem to discharge quite substantially if not used for a bit and for example I've got one in the camera just now which was fully charged a week ago, I've taken 26 shots and not much chimping, switched off when not using and it's showing 35%!!!!

I have a similar case but I assume it's discharged after not being used for a few weeks. But I generally get more out of it when photographing wildlife though.

That's reassuring as I've just orded a mk2. I've just got used to the R5 chewing through batteries when I moved from my old DLSR.

Going to NY in May so may well pick up some more batteries and memory cards at B&H.

I have not tried but I think you can charge/use the camera on the fly if you have usb-c fast-charge type battery (maybe 45W output or more).

 

[Brentor]

This has proved to be an issue with certain Lumix models too - however it is understood that if a body is left too long without battery inserted then its internal battery could suffer deep discharges / more cycling & be harder / more costly to replace. Better perhaps to treat the normal insertable batteries as sacrificial in that case?

Good point. I didn’t see any mention of this on the Canon sites/forums. Personally I always leave the battery in and carry spares.

Perhaps the R5ii is worse than other models with this issue. Return for checking?

 

[A_S]

its funny this battery thing. i have this issue with one of my remote cameras. For remote work i have 2x 7d mk2s both bought second hand for £300 or there abouts.

In one of them i noticed the battery was totally discharging after a week to 10 days. I tested the battery again and presumed it was an issue with the battery.... So raised an amazon ticket and got neewer to send me through a replacement under warentee... I then noticed it still happened....! This does not happen on the other 7D, which will hold 95% of charge after the same period and the same battery..... Odd....

 

[Brentor]

its funny this battery thing. i have this issue with one of my remote cameras. For remote work i have 2x 7d mk2s both bought second hand for £300 or there abouts.

In one of them i noticed the battery was totally discharging after a week to 10 days. I tested the battery again and presumed it was an issue with the battery.... So raised an amazon ticket and got neewer to send me through a replacement under warentee... I then noticed it still happened....! This does not happen on the other 7D, which will hold 95% of charge after the same period and the same battery..... Odd....

I have read similar reports about other Canon models. I know someone with a 5DS R who had this problem and it was never resolved. Some suggested it was a motherboard issue. I doubt Canon will acknowledge it being an issue.

 

[George]

Good point. I didn’t see any mention of this on the Canon sites/forums. Personally I always leave the battery in and carry spares.

Perhaps the R5ii is worse than other models with this issue. Return for checking?

The link to which I was referring...and apologies for the delay..is here and makes some very interesting reading..

We’re Still Waiting for New Firmware for the EOS R1 and EOS R5 Mark II

Hi, yes I saw that post too, that's really unfortunate. Thank you! Might I ask if you contacted Canon first or the retailer you bought the camera from? I do not have any experience with Canon Products and Warranty. I brought the camera back to the retailer, with a very long letter to Canon...

www.canonrumors.com

The OE R5 mk2 batteries are MUCH cheaper in the US (but remember B and H quoted price doesn't include sales tax which if shipping can vary from state to state) and are worth picking up if you're over there...but remember airline regs when bringing them back.

Anyone tried the Neewer ones?...interesting info in the above link.

 

[A_S]

I've got a total of 7 neweer LPE6x3, LPE6N x3 and one of the "new" LPE6 for the R5 mk2 (i forget the designation) and perfectly happy with them. Been using them for 3 years

 

[Vertigo1]

The OE R5 mk2 batteries are MUCH cheaper in the US (but remember B and H quoted price doesn't include sales tax which if shipping can vary from state to state) and are worth picking up if you're over there...but remember airline regs when bringing them back.

That's a good shout on the airline regs. Loose batteries often have to be carried in your cabin bag.

I've ordered a spare LP-E6P with the R5II so I'll have two but will definitely pick up a couple more at B&H, along with some 512GB CF Express cards.

 

[Phil V]

That's reassuring as I've just orded a mk2. I've just got used to the R5 chewing through batteries when I moved from my old DLSR.

Going to NY in May so may well pick up some more batteries and memory cards at B&H.

I had a chuckle at this.
I used to regularly run 3 DSLR’s all day at a wedding and I think I owned 7 batteries back then.
Nowadays it’s all amateur use. I have a small ‘everyday’ bag which contains a camera and my RF lenses (and 3 batteries). And a massive rucksack containing my remains EF lenses.

I opened my rucksack to go to the zoo Friday, and it also contains a pile of batteries.
There’s probably 9 or 10 batteries knocking about for 2 cameras for very casual use.
And I like 3rd party batteries, as much for the multiple battery charger as for the price. Having a charger that’s smaller than the canon one, that charges 3 batteries at a time is great.

 

[Vertigo1]

I had a chuckle at this.
I used to regularly run 3 DSLR’s all day at a wedding and I think I owned 7 batteries back then.
Nowadays it’s all amateur use. I have a small ‘everyday’ bag which contains a camera and my RF lenses (and 3 batteries). And a massive rucksack containing my remains EF lenses.

I opened my rucksack to go to the zoo Friday, and it also contains a pile of batteries.
There’s probably 9 or 10 batteries knocking about for 2 cameras for very casual use.
And I like 3rd party batteries, as much for the multiple battery charger as for the price. Having a charger that’s smaller than the canon one, that charges 3 batteries at a time is great.

I also used to do weddings (casually) back when I had a couple of DLSRs but not since going mirrorless.

I've generally found that two full LP-E6NHs will get me through a typical day of shooting but it can be marginal if I'm trigger-happy, such as days at wildlife centres etc.

I've always shied away from third-party batteries, probably irrationally but I just never wanted to risk it as, if a crappy third-party battery were to bulge/leak inside the camera, the damage could be extensive.

 

[Phil V]

I also used to do weddings (casually) back when I had a couple of DLSRs but not since going mirrorless.

I've generally found that two full LP-E6NHs will get me through a typical day of shooting but it can be marginal if I'm trigger-happy, such as days at wildlife centres etc.

I've always shied away from third-party batteries, probably irrationally but I just never wanted to risk it as, if a crappy third-party battery were to bulge/leak inside the camera, the damage could be extensive.

I’ve used 3rd party batteries since the 300d, over that time the quality has been worth the savings.

With no dramatic fails at all, some early BP511’s? that were better than OEM, and 2 batteries that died what I might call ‘prematurely’. But that’s 20+ years and lots of batteries across a dozen ish cameras.

Given the numbers of 3rd party batteries sold, it’s vanishingly rare to hear of a catastrophic failure. In fact I can’t think I’ve ever seen a first hand account.

Compare that to card fails (even expensive ones), lens fails and strap fails, all of which are well documented. I’d say that whilst the outcome of a battery fail would be dramatic, the chance of it happening is tiny.

But I understand why someone wouldn’t take the risk.

 

[A_S]

slightly random question - maybe I've not (yet) looked hard enough. I managed (in my haste) to loose my RF 1.4x TC lens cap yesterday.... I've had a look on Wex's list of lens caps and can't see a replacement. Can anyone advise where to get one?

Edit: It might be this but it doesnt look like the bulging front end

Buy Canon Lens Extender Cap RF — Canon UK Store

Shop online for Canon Lens Extender Cap RF at Canon UK Store. Just one of the many great deals in Lens Caps. Free shipping on all orders over £30!.

www.canon.co.uk

 

[A_S]

Still cant work out how to reverse the lens hood square but this is some peice of kit. (Un)willing first test subject....

 

[James Thomas 75]

Still cant work out how to reverse the lens hood square but this is some peice of kit. (Un)willing first test subject....

Yeah they can be a PITA to put on at first.
I presume it’s the same as the 600 and my old 500 II was.
In that you just need to kinda let it “drop” flat into place before starting to screw it tight.
If that makes sense

 

[A_S]

yes I took that advice and if i let it drop on i can seat it much better.

Does anyone have any experience with shorter hoods, be it the canon or 3rd party? Looking at either the canon Canon ET-155B (Struggling to find dimentions though) or the Zemlin one including getting a UK lens cap off ebay or the Zemlin one from the USA.

 

[robinsslee]

You can get Zemlin short or stackable hood (short and long) including lens cap and still cheaper than buying OEM short hood from Canon. But bear in mind 20% tax when buying from States.

 

[A_S]

Custom modes -> amazingly I’ve never really bothered to set them up but with so much customisation these days - specifically the full time focus and tracking and therefore the the amount of time I seem to spend changing settings, I thought I’d look into it

Set a few up but came across a fairly big limitation - I don’t think I can see a custom mode (EOS R5 mk1) where I can vary my ‘mode’ right?

I wanted to set an Astro photography preset to C2 with a custom white balance and raw rather than Craw. All good

However sometimes I shoot on manual and sometimes bulb depending on the shot length obviously

as I understand it I’d have to have 2 custom modes to achieve this because I can’t switch from M to B without leaving custom mode and loosing the custom WB and RAW. Ie it would revert back to my previous settings from before I engaged the custom mode?

FWIW I did check if if I could use Fv mode to go over 30s but I don’t think I can

 

[Phil V]

Hi @A_S my understanding of the Custom modes is that whilst in the Cusom mode you can change settings, they will revert when the camera goes to sleep. ie the camera should retain your unchanged settings but they’ll revert, so you should still have Raw and custom WB. But maybe you can make the changes stick with the lock button.

Obviously this won’t work for any changes which use the mode wheel, as that is literally switching the Custom mode off - so you’ll need 2 C modes one for under 30 secs and one for B, or maybe an interval meter that you can program with longer SS

 

[A_S]

Hi @A_S my understanding of the Custom modes is that whilst in the Cusom mode you can change settings, they will revert when the camera goes to sleep. ie the camera should retain your unchanged settings but they’ll revert, so you should still have Raw and custom WB. But maybe you can make the changes stick with the lock button.

Obviously this won’t work for any changes which use the mode wheel, as that is literally switching the Custom mode off - so you’ll need 2 C modes one for under 30 secs and one for B, or maybe an interval meter that you can program with longer SS

Yes it seems my only option is to use the bulb timer - i realised this maybe my only option so set it to bulb

 

[stickytape]

Hi guys, I thought I’d know the answer to this.. but hey!

I’ve got the R8 however I’ve noticed during a lot of recent burst shooting on birds in flight that I’ve been doing, that the buffer takes a good while to clear. This is in the high speed or super high speed using electronic shutter.

Now I’ve realized I’m using class one SD cards - and I think that might be the problem. Essentially after a burst the camera locks up until they’re all cleared. Any folks on here suggest a card that works fine for them and at least reduces this lock up period? I’m assuming it would apply to the other models like the R5 and so on..

Must say I’m missing the R5 more, I really should go back to one at some point!

 

[Brentor]

Hi guys, I thought I’d know the answer to this.. but hey!

I’ve got the R8 however I’ve noticed during a lot of recent burst shooting on birds in flight that I’ve been doing, that the buffer takes a good while to clear. This is in the high speed or super high speed using electronic shutter.

Now I’ve realized I’m using class one SD cards - and I think that might be the problem. Essentially after a burst the camera locks up until they’re all cleared. Any folks on here suggest a card that works fine for them and at least reduces this lock up period? I’m assuming it would apply to the other models like the R5 and so on..

Must say I’m missing the R5 more, I really should go back to one at some point!

I bought an Integral 64GB UHS-II SD Card V90 Up to 300MBs Read and 280MBs Write Speed 1866X SDHC Professional High Speed Memory Card to resolve this problem. Other similar spec cards should be fine.​