Use manual exposure and start out at 400mm, f/8, 100 ISO, 1/200. Check the histogram to make sure that your exposure is good - you may need to adjust settings slightly, but that should get you close if the moon is clear and bright. If it's a tad dim then bump the ISO to 200. It is better to shoot slightly bright (but not too overexposed) and then reduce the exposure later, rather than to underexpose and then brighten it up afterwards.
If you shoot raw then you will have an opportunity to fine tune sharpening and make other subtle changes if you need to. If you shoot to JPEG then the camera will already have done some of those things for you, perhaps not maximising the results.
Here's one I shot some time ago. This was at 400mm, f/10, 200 ISO, 1/200. That exposure is 1/3 stop brighter than the one I suggested above, so very similar, and I have not made adjustments to the exposure at all in post.
It is worth noting that a full moon is usually the worst time to photograph it, because it is front lit by the sun and there are no visible shadows, which means features do not stand out and it all looks very flat. It is better to wait for a partial moon, when shadows appear in the craters and then it looks more interesting.
Here is a more appealing example. This was shot at f/9, 800 ISO, 1/250. I had to raise the exposure because the side of the moon facing me was not as bright as the left hand side. I'm not sure why I went for the higher shutter speed. It may have been a windy night and I wanted to reduce vibration in the camera a little bit. Assuming no wind then f/8, 400 ISO, 1/200 (or 1/160) might have been a better bet.
EDIT : I just noticed I had my 1.4X teleconverter attached for this shot, which forced me to f/8 even wide open. I stopped down just a fraction to f/9 to marginally improve lens IQ, but I could not go too far because of diffraction at smaller apertures.