AV,TV,or P for weddings???

DiddyDave said:
What was that meant to show m8 :shrug:

DD
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It's meant to show what exposure mode experienced wedding photographers (20+ weddings) would prefer and what conditions might cause them to change modes. To anyone who followed the link provided I would have thought that would be fairly clear. If you were unable to make that connection I am sorry.
 
tdodd said:
It's meant to show what exposure mode experienced wedding photographers (20+ weddings) would prefer and what conditions might cause them to change modes. To anyone who followed the link provided I would have thought that would be fairly clear. If you were unable to make that connection I am sorry.
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Well yes I got it then - they use whatever suits them best - which I think is what's being said elsewhere in this thread too

:)

DD
 
Jo,

Sounds like you have a good eye and have managed to get a fair number of referrals. Can you share some of your work and any tips? I have a wedding fast approaching, a freebie :D

Me and a pal and being charitable in return, for, erm, experience. Our bride and groom fully understand the situation and our fears, and they readily admitted they have ZERO chance of paying for a tog, so win win.

Anyway, would love to see some of your work.

Gary.
 
DiddyDave said:
Well yes I got it then - they use whatever suits them best - which I think is what's being said elsewhere in this thread too

:)

DD
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Well, yes, but I just thought there was no harm in gathering a few extra opinions from an alternative source, and a dedicated wedding sub-forum at that. It also seems to me that "what suits them best" is manual mode, most of the time. Would you rather draw a conclusion from a dozen opinions or several dozen (rhetorical)?
 
EdinburghGary said:
Jo,

Sounds like you have a good eye and have managed to get a fair number of referrals. Can you share some of your work and any tips? I have a wedding fast approaching, a freebie :D

Me and a pal and being charitable in return, for, erm, experience. Our bride and groom fully understand the situation and our fears, and they readily admitted they have ZERO chance of paying for a tog, so win win.

Anyway, would love to see some of your work.

Gary.
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You will be fine mate, the bonus is there isn't any pressure at all because they wouldn't be having a pro tog anyway so if you get any decent pics for them its a nice bonus, im sure you will do great though mate.
 
tdodd said:
Well, yes, but I just thought there was no harm in gathering a few extra opinions from an alternative source, and a dedicated wedding sub-forum at that. It also seems to me that "what suits them best" is manual mode, most of the time. Would you rather draw a conclusion from a dozen opinions or several dozen (rhetorical)?
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Seeing as it's rhetorical - there's no answer to that is there ;)

And yes - Gary will do more than a 'fine' job IMO too :thumbs:

DD
 
Josephine. I,m sure that nobody meant any insult to you. its just that using auto modes as a basis for a wedding shoot would horrify most people who have any inclination towards photography as an art form... after all the camera just makes best assumptions based on the amount of light etc and not the content. To have any real influence on your photos you will have to learn more about lighting, Depth of field, Compostion, Once you get that lot sorted out like a pro please give me a ring and let me know how you did it because I haven't managed it yet...:shrug:
 
we11ingon said:
Josephine. I,m sure that nobody meant any insult to you. its just that using auto modes as a basis for a wedding shoot would horrify most people who have any inclination towards photography as an art form... after all the camera just makes best assumptions based on the amount of light etc and not the content. To have any real influence on your photos you will have to learn more about lighting, Depth of field, Compostion, Once you get that lot sorted out like a pro please give me a ring and let me know how you did it because I haven't managed it yet...:shrug:
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If you let the camera decide on correct exposure you are in auto mode

If you let the camera decide the correct exposure - and check to see if it's right, and adjust as necessary with exp comp - then to my mind you're in a form of semi-manual

If you shoot in manual but constantly need to adjust due to changing light AND you're using the camera's own meter, then you are in semi-manual with more chance of getting it wrong

Basically, unless you use a separate meter, ignore your camera's metering and set those results on the camera - you're in a form of auto mode

Simple as

DD
 
@ DD surely if your using M and shooting then reviewing on the histogram its fully manual

and in what way would a seperate meter be different from the cameras spot meter, unless you mean to measure incident light which is a whole other ball game as you have to go to wherever your subject is
 
david1701 said:
@ DD surely if your using M and shooting then reviewing on the histogram its fully manual

and in what way would a seperate meter be different from the cameras spot meter, unless you mean to measure incident light which is a whole other ball game as you have to go to wherever your subject is
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Using your camera's meter and acting upon it is only ever semi-manual IMO

Just the same as using Av and expo comp

Separate metering and ignoring your camera is 'proper' manual - and is a waste of time too :D

That's why camera makers spend £millions on metering soft/hardware

:)

DD
 
Radiohead said:
Give Joe Buissink a call would you and tell him that.
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Give me his number, I'll give him a call...;)


Don't bother, found his site...so how would you know he shoots in P mode?

Looks like he could be this season's G.F....He will then probably also develop a series of horribly overpriced and hideous-looking photographic accessories, eventually write a book or two and maybe even become a talk-show host or co-anchor on something on the E channel...
 
He's said it himself many times - both at DWF and at meets. Like most people, he'll use whatever the right mode is for what he needs.

Now he doesn't use it all the time, but he does use it on occasion.
 
what ever way you look at it (forgetting flash), we only have:

What apeture is the thing set to
What shutter speed are we using
How much are we amplifing everthing (EV / ISO)

All the different modes do is make different decisions for the above 3 (4) variables depending on what the meter says...

So calling a shovel a shovel:

Comprimise #1 you have a envelope - a dynamic range your sensor or film can deal with, which will not match up to whats out there in the real world
Compromise #2 Running a lens at 1.4 will let more light in, but the optics will be crap
Comprimise #3 Requiring subjects to stand still for 5 seconds to get a perfect exposure wont happen at a wedding anymore

So in reality, choose what setting that gives you the best comprimise possible
Options

option #1 -When its dark.. An increase in amplification will increase noise, but if kept to acceptable levels may work.. the alternative direction is a lower f-stop, a shallower DOF and poorer optics
option #2 - When its bright Fill flash can even out a scene, reducing the dynamic range, giving you the choice to choose "a correct" exposure
Option #3 - one wakes up and smells the bacon and realise that at a wedding, almost every shot is a comprimise, and you choose what highlights are OK to blow, and which shadows are OK to loose. There is no such thing as correct exposure, when you have a sensor with a dynamic range that is no match for the real world

___

So what is this dude gibbering about?

Most of the time you have a choice - use flash, or loose a highlight or lowlight, or gain noise

As you cant personally light a whole sceene all of the time, the first thing to learn is EXACTLY what is the highest ammount of amplification (ISO / EV comp) you are happy with for a particular camera back.. then NEVER exceed that ammount for your camera in question. when learning this you need to understand how much you can push a highlight and lowlight in PP at this ISO setting. When you figure this out, you will realise why some top wedding photographers use highlight recovery software

Next - I hear people harping on about 1.4 lenses, or fast lenses at a wedding.. are you seriously going to shoot at 1.4, in a really dark church, and have a really limited DOF.. because the net result will be a lot of binned shots due to focus issues.. Yes - its great to have the creative flexibility a quick lens offers, but its not the final word in wedding photography.. you also need to figure out how to shoot the thing at f8. if that means image stabilisation / monopods / tripods - then it just does

The next thing to figure out is when to use flash to fill and lower the contrast of your subjects

___

Before I get too carried away - exactly what information does a light meter give you

Shutter sped & Fstop for a specific ISO - that s it. For all the fancy exposure modes, prioritory modes on a camra, it all boils down to 3 things

Shutter speed - choose one that will stop your subject
Fstop - choose one that will give you what you want in focus in focus
ISO - choose one that is acceptably low in noise

If the above isnt possible, then you need to be using flash, if that isnt possibel, you need to choose a comprimise
 
before slagging off a wedding photographer - consider one of his / her brides or prospective customers reading this.. Haviing the luxury of being out of range is a wonderful thing for the mud slinger, however it comes with a lot of responsibility
 
:wave:
I have been away for Easter (taking lots and lots of photo's) and amazed at how many responses are on this thread. Some of them are really great thankyou.

Although not photographing a wedding (more mountains in the lake District) i have been trying out AV TV P and comparing it against what i am used to which is M. I found that i naturally moved between different modes but used M less and less as i found i had to stop, look at the available light and then consider what i wanted to focus on and then start changing ISO Depth of field and shutter speed etc, and although i am quite a dab hand at nailing this combination most of the time it does take a good few seconds in which time the moments gone!!

I can see now that AV TV and P are useful and speed things up loads. I found that if i underexposed a tiny bit it worked out quite well as i could bring the exposure up again afterwards. Better to underexpose a little than overexpose.

One thing i did struggle on though was when photographing a person who is squinting in strong sunlight and you cannot get them into shade because there is none. how does flash and metering work in this situation. I understand I aim the flash straight at the face. How do i adjust my metering in this situation. Can anyone help on this one?
 
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