It’s the online version- called Lightroom for iPad.Excuse the dumb question but how does LR work on the iPad? Do you get a choice between classic (?) and the online version? Does it work in the same way as a MacBook would (would probably use a pencil) and I can export to a folder on then”desktop”?
Ok. So you can’t use it in the same time way you can on a laptop?It’s the online version- called Lightroom for iPad.
You can export to camera roll or files.
A technical question about the iPhone's camera, specifically the 13 Pro Max, though really about any iPhone with Portrait mode.
I can take a photo with any of the three lenses on my camera, in Photo mode or in Portrait mode, and the result is a 20MP file at 3024 x 4032. Unless I take it using Portrait mode using the 3x lens and choosing any filter (other than Original), in which case it's a 3MP file at 1512 x 2016, i.e. a quarter of the size. And in this particular case the result is saved as JPG rather than the HEIC that I selected in the Settings. Also, if I take the photo into the iPhone's editor, there's no button to remove Portrait mode from the photo, as the manual suggests that there should be.
It's only that particular combination of Portrait mode, 3x lens, and an applied filter that seems to produce this result. I would expect all photos to be saved as HEIC at full resolution. Does anyone have any idea what's going on, or a suggested fix?
Someone on Reddit suggested that I take the photo in colour then apply the filter in the built-in editor. This works as a stopgap, but isn't ideal, as I haven't yet learnt to 'see in black and white'. Also, I like to have the mono result right there in front of me and make an instant decision on whether to retake the photo. I can resize the photo to 3024 x 4032 in On1 Photo Raw but a) the result won't be as good, and b) I can't take Photo Raw out with me when I want to shoot, process, and upload while on the move. (OK, I can, but not without paying a monthly sub.)
Any ideas, anyone?
With regards to the file size I would almost certainly think its something to do with adding a filter etc as RAW files are exactly that RAW with no added effects etc.
I don’t have it but assumed you would have to use ProRaw + jpg or heic to do that in the standard Camera app.
I tend not to use raw, George. I shoot HEIC to save a lot of space, given that the photos from this phone are excellent quality and don't need much processing at all. And you've already seen the quality of the mono shots, even though they're downsized. I'd just prefer them to be full resolution to give me more leeway.
I didn't realise you only snapped in JPEG/HEIC, I assumed that as you have the currently top of the range iPhone you'd want to get the very best quality from the camera which obviously means shooting in RAW/Pro Raw.
is it possible to easily switch between normal jpeg and raw on the iPhone 13 mini ?
is it possible to easily switch between normal jpeg and raw on the iPhone 13 mini ?
Would be nice to be able to switch to raw for the occasional time when I haven’t got my camera and want to maximise quality
Until I got the iPhone 13 I didn’t use my phone for much for taking photos but was pleasantly surprised how good it can be in decent light![]()
Or Halide but definitely not in standard app up to 11 anyway.I don't know if you can snap in RAW (not Pro RAW) with the standard app, but I'd be surprised if you couldn't snap in RAW (not Pro RAW) using something like the ProCamera app. I could when I used an old "iPhone 7+" so would certainly think you could using one of the current latest series. As previously mentioned Pro RAW is only available at the moment on the Pro units.
I'm getting great quality from HEIC. And I don't think the iPhone 13's sensor is any bigger than the sensor in any other phone, so shooting in ProRaw won't give anything like the scope for processing/relighting as even an APS-C camera will. Even a raw photo from the RX100 will be better in this regard than a phone sensor. Again, I'm happy with the JPGs from the RX100. And when I start seriously doing video again, I'm probably not going to get a day's worth of 4K and ProRaw in my 256 GB.
I'm afraid that Apple ProRaw is only available on the Pro series phones.
I don't know if you can snap in RAW (not Pro RAW) with the standard app, but I'd be surprised if you couldn't snap in RAW (not Pro RAW) using something like the ProCamera app. I could when I used an old "iPhone 7+" so would certainly think you could using one of the current latest series. As previously mentioned Pro RAW is only available at the moment on the Pro units.
I haven’t tried it, but take a look here.Is there an action to turn the personal hotspot feature on or off with the shortcuts or iPhone automation feature? I've looked and can't find it. Seems bonkers as you can turn wifi or Bluetooth on or off but hotspot feature seems to be missing.
Up to 25 million Britons who owned an older iPhone model in 2017 could be able to claim damages from Apple if the lawsuit is successful.
It is an opt-out claim - meaning people who owned an iPhone 6, 6 Plus, 6S, 6S Plus, SE, 7, 7 Plus, 8, 8 Plus and iPhone X model do not need to actively join the case to seek damages.
Average $26 in the US lawsuit apparently.I've got an XS lying around. Looking forward to spending my $0.02.
You'll have to opt-out thenI think I possibly have a claim with a 7 Plus but wouldn’t claim as I don’t think Apple were in the wrong.
I’m sure the upcoming Apple self-drive car will sort all that, there’ll be no buttons, wheels (inside), levers or switches to confuse things, just SiriOne thing I find really strange with current iPhone is the way it behaves with bluetooth devices. It doesn't seem possible to have one default when connected to in car device and another one when you aren't.
Auto call routing is useless. It just defaults to not using the speakerphone which I never want when at home. If I set it to speaker always instead then when you make a call in the car then of course it decides to use the speaker on the phone and not in the car so you basically can't use it in the car as it means physically picking up the phone to turn the stupid thing onto the BT device which it is already connected to.
It's another setting option I can't find in automation either. I have no idea when it became so monumentally crap as I'm sure in the old days it'd pick car for calls when you were in the car and it would automatically transfer back to speakerphone when you got out of the car.
I want an if then list: if connected to car audio use car BT for incoming and outgoing calls. If not connected to car audio use speakerphone for incoming and outgoing calls. It seems it's not possible just to do something this simple easily.
You have the driving focus as well which again you'd think you could set something different.
Also call routing is in assistive touch. What a dumb place to keep it. It should be under Phone and you should be able to set default answer behaviour when you're connected to particular BT devices.

Not sure if this will help, but with some Bluetooth devices you can set the device type in iOS, eg handsfree or speaker.One thing I find really strange with current iPhone is the way it behaves with bluetooth devices. It doesn't seem possible to have one default when connected to in car device and another one when you aren't.
Auto call routing is useless. It just defaults to not using the speakerphone which I never want when at home. If I set it to speaker always instead then when you make a call in the car then of course it decides to use the speaker on the phone and not in the car so you basically can't use it in the car as it means physically picking up the phone to turn the stupid thing onto the BT device which it is already connected to.
It's another setting option I can't find in automation either. I have no idea when it became so monumentally crap as I'm sure in the old days it'd pick car for calls when you were in the car and it would automatically transfer back to speakerphone when you got out of the car.
I want an if then list: if connected to car audio use car BT for incoming and outgoing calls. If not connected to car audio use speakerphone for incoming and outgoing calls. It seems it's not possible just to do something this simple easily.
You have the driving focus as well which again you'd think you could set something different.
Also call routing is in assistive touch. What a dumb place to keep it. It should be under Phone and you should be able to set default answer behaviour when you're connected to particular BT devices.
Not sure if this will help, but with some Bluetooth devices you can set the device type in iOS, eg handsfree or speaker.

.Thanks,George! Maybe it’ll fix my iPad Safari problem — often whee I open a linking in yhe background it vanishes immediately after loading. Seems not only to be me but searching for variations on “tabs closing” bring up to many non helpful solutions"Heads Up"
There's a software update out for "iPad OS" & "IOS" version 15.6. Mine are all done & dusted and everything seems to be just fine.
Thanks, George. iPhone & iPad done."Heads Up"
There's a software update out for "iPad OS" & "IOS" version 15.6. Mine are all done & dusted and everything seems to be just fine.
I think I have similar problem. Though I keep Safari clean, and when clicking on a link, it just sits at new tab page and nothing happens. I have to click on a bookmark and then go back to click on the link from the other app again. Usually happens when Safari hasn't been opened for a while. It's really annoying.Thanks,George! Maybe it’ll fix my iPad Safari problem — often whee I open a linking in yhe background it vanishes immediately after loading. Seems not only to be me but searching for variations on “tabs closing” bring up to many non helpful solutions![]()
My Safari is not “clean”. I have dozen tab groups each with maybe 10 tabs (varying which ones) and a long Reading List that I prune from time to time but use more like bookmarks.I think I have similar problem. Though I keep Safari clean, and when clicking on a link, it just sits at new tab page and nothing happens. I have to click on a bookmark and then go back to click on the link from the other app again. Usually happens when Safari hasn't been opened for a while. It's really annoying.
I'm really looking forward to the AI image cropping feature in iOS 16.....
My Safari is not “clean”. I have dozen tab groups each with maybe 10 tabs (varying which ones) and a long Reading List that I prune from time to time but use more like bookmarks.
I don’t think the problem occurs in Chrome/Firefox/Brave which all use the same WebKit software as Safari. Howeve I find Safari more convenient and better for synchronising and linking with 1Password and so on so am reluctant to change. The problem never used to happen and tried changing various settings but nothing cures it so far.
I think a hard reset may stop for a time before it reappears.
Try creating a new MacOS user and see if they still have the same issue. That may help narrow down the possible source of the issue to some settings within your profile.I’ve had 3 calls with Apple support and they’ve received screen recordings if the issue. Originally the recommended to put in Recovery Mode and Restore on a Mac which I did but it made no difference.
Las support guy has escalated it but was going on holiday for a week so has booked a call with me when he gets back on Monday -x I could have been transferred to someone else but decided to stick with him.
This problem only occurs on Safari on my newish M1 iPad Air and not on my oldish iPad Pro 10.5 with same OS and Safari synched with same tabs & groups & apps etc. Seems to be a ‘feature’ of the Air.
That’s an interesting idea, I assume you are speaking of the recovery process on the Mac.Try creating a new MacOS user and see if they still have the same issue. That may help narrow down the possible source of the issue to some settings within your profile.