A Question for Macro Togs

ecoleman

Suspended / Banned
Messages
6,992
Name
Elliott
Edit My Images
No
Hi Everyone.

I an very interested in getting involved with Macro Photography and can't decide which lens to get. I would like to get some great close up shots of insects (eyes) etc.

Whilst money is not freely available in hugh quantities, I want to make sure I get something that will last.

I've been looking at:

Canon 100mm 2.8
Sigma 105mm 2.8 EX
Sigma 150mm 2.8EX

I'm not keen on the Canon, due to the plastic body and you have to buy the lens hood separately.

I'm not keen on the Sigma 105mm because of the fact that the front element moves during focus.

I'm not sure if 150mm is going to be to long on a 1.6X crop body (EOS 40D)

I already have Kenko Macro Tubes to add to which ever lens I get.

What would you recommend? and most importantly why you would recommend it.

Thanks in Advance
 
I've had all three :D

Firstly the focal lenght of the lens has no bearing on the magnification - they are all 1:1 at there closest focusing distance.

The sigma 150mm is the pick of the bunch but its heavy and difficult to hand hold, The 100mm canon is probably the best all round lens , internal focus, good colour and contrast and nice and light. the sigma 105 has good IQ but the price is that close to the canon now theres no real point of going that route. And don't worry about a lens hood - it will only get in the way.
 
if its insects eyes then you would want a decent working distance which the 100mm can do but obviously its not as good as the 105mm or 150mm. i would probably go with dogfish magnet's suggestion and get the canon 100mm, its canon brand so obviously excellent IQ and it doesnt suffer QC unlike the sigma's and its also a decent focal length for portraits if the need arises.
 
if its insects eyes then you would want a decent working distance which the 100mm can do but obviously its not as good as the 105mm or 150mm. .


Not quite true :) the Canon 100mm has a greater working distance than the sigma 105mm



focusdistance.jpg
 
Sorry, but what is the difference between Min Focus Distance and Min Working Distance.

min focus distance is the distance from the subject to the focal plane of your camera, which is usually shown as a circle with a line through it on your camera body, MWD is the distance from the end of your lens to the subject.
 
If you already have the Kenko Auto extension tubes a good cheap alternative would be the "Nifty Fifty" - the Canon 50mm f1.8.

This is an extremely sharp lens which would easily give you 1:1 magnification with the tubes.

The only disadvantage is that you would be working much closer to the subject.

Here is a sample using tubes and the "Nifty Fifty":


4032796615_fa65e43eb5.jpg


Large size:
http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2722/4032796615_26efa6305a_o.jpg

.
 
min focus distance is the distance from the subject to the focal plane of your camera, which is usually shown as a circle with a line through it on your camera body, MWD is the distance from the end of your lens to the subject.

Thankyou, So really going for the 150mm over the 100mm doesn't really do anything for me other than give me a little extra working distance.

Am I correct in thinking that adding extension tubes will also decrease that working distance.
 
If you already have the Kenko Auto extension tubes a good cheap alternative would be the "Nifty Fifty" - the Canon 50mm f1.8.

This is an extremely sharp lens which would easily give you 1:1 magnification with the tubes.

The only disadvantage is that you would be working much closer to the subject.

Here is a sample using tubes and the "Nifty Fifty":


4032796615_fa65e43eb5.jpg


Large size:
http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2722/4032796615_26efa6305a_o.jpg

.

Thanks, I do have a 50mm 1.8 but as you said the working distance is so small that you cant really get close enough to small creatures without them running off and hiding.

I have also used them on my 70-200 f4.0L which does give me a much greater working distance, but as you can imagine it's pretty heavy.
 
Thanks, I do have a 50mm 1.8 but as you said the working distance is so small that you cant really get close enough to small creatures without them running off and hiding.

It actually depends what they're doing - for instance getting close to flies is quite difficult but in this case they were so engrossed in humping their brains out I was able to get about 15-20 shots before they flew off - still attached!




That was taken with a 17-85mm lens but I was able to almost touch them and they just didn't care!

.
 
"Insects' eyes" sounds very close! A regular macro will take you down to 1:1, 2:1 or so with tubes but it sounds like you might want to go closer than that.

When that happens, longer lenses become a liability as you need too much extension on them. Hence the Canon MP-E 65mm which runs to 5:1. That's a wonderful lens but pretty specialist and hard to use. And expensive.

Of the lenses you list, the Canon 100 is the better. And yes, you won't be needing a hood when you're that close.

You'll need a ring-flash, certainly for very close work.

Edit: Canon EF-S 60mm 2.8 is a sweet little thing, and extremely sharp.
 
Thank you everybody.

I think I have decided on the Canon 100mm.

I think the MP-E 65mm is a bit to expensive at the moment and as you say hard to use. I want to get something that I will at least get a few keepers from, but maybe in the future.:naughty:

Ring Flash is on my wish list, but will have to wait for a while, so I will have to do with off camera flash for now.
 
I have had the sigma 150 and now have the canon 100. The canon is lighter and by the results i have seen the canon resolves better IMO. THe sigma is no slouch though and i have had many great shots from it. The reason i changed was the weight of the lens. At nearly a kilo and the added focal length minimising hand shake (without flash) can be a little difficult.
 
What I need now is something to bring my flash forwards.
Anybody know where to get a reasonably priced C-Bracket, and macro rails?

Flash in the pan on here does the C-Brackets and cables for a good price.
 
Thank you everyone for all your advise.
I have just got myself a very nice second hand Canon 100mm from London Camera Exchange.
Now to start playing :love:

What I need now is something to bring my flash forwards.
Anybody know where to get a reasonably priced C-Bracket, and macro rails?

Nice choice, I love my 100mm:) Another vote for 'Flash in the pans'brackets. I used the wedding shooter side bracket at an angle with a 430ex and a mini softbox to take this;)

 
Nice choice, I love my 100mm:) Another vote for 'Flash in the pans'brackets. I used the wedding shooter side bracket at an angle with a 430ex and a mini softbox to take this;)


Is that the C bracket you are referring to. I had a look at some of them on eBay and from feedback they were not very good quality and people were complaining that the screws did not hold and broke easily.

Of course is FITP's are of a better quality, then I have a go.

I have asked FITP if he still sells the wedding side bracket, but he doesn't, so if anybody knows where I can get one of those, please feel free to point me in the right direction.
 
How about a lens hood and some velcro? Works a treat with my 430EXII. You can pick up a 3rd party lens hood for about £5 and a roll of velcro from any local haderdashery.
 
Just been looking at one of these
http://www.warehouseexpress.com/buy-marumi-drf14c-ring-flash-for-canon/p1026071

Does anybody else have one? Are they any good?

Buy the time I have bought the Off Camera TTL Cord / Softbox / Bracket I figured I may as well just get one of these.

Although not a Canon/Sigma, they seem to get some reasonable reviews and a third of the price.

Personally i don't like the light produced by a ring flash and its difficult to diffuse.....
 
AAARRRGGHHHH, Why can't I find a decent Flash bracket at a reasonable price?????:bang::bang:

Why do photographers happily pay pay £180.00 for a strip of metal with a few holes in it.:shrug:

I've seriously got to find a new hobby
 
You're right. From the first link it didn't look like it could tilt forwards, but looking at the second picture it may just do the trick. Thank You
 
As far as I can tell it can lean towards the subject. It also rotates and features a telescopic arm for raising it up and down.

11017_2.jpg

Yes, you can swivel it any which way, but the problem for close working macro is that the arm is 12in long shortest, which might put the flash behind the subject. Lovely contra jour though :D
 
Yes, you can swivel it any which way, but the problem for close working macro is that the arm is 12in long shortest, which might put the flash behind the subject. Lovely contra jour though :D

Hmmm, 12" is a bit long.
B&H do loads of flexible arms at pretty good prices problem is the shipping and duty more than doubles the price, and I can't find them in UK.
 
Yes, you can swivel it any which way, but the problem for close working macro is that the arm is 12in long shortest, which might put the flash behind the subject. Lovely contra jour though :D

Not a problem with the Canon 180mm :naughty:

Anyway a ring flash might be a better option, that is why I just bought a Ray Flash from this forum. Let's see how it works out :)
 
Not a problem with the Canon 180mm :naughty:

Anyway a ring flash might be a better option, that is why I just bought a Ray Flash from this forum. Let's see how it works out :)

That's what I use ;) Great for fashion style portraits too.
 
Ray Flash is an option I have looked at, just have to check that it will fit a Sigma 500 DG Super Flash on a 40D.

They don't make a Sigma version, though you might be able to bodge it.

Also, it's too big for really close macro.

What's wrong with the Marumi? From what you've said (ie high magnification macro) it should suit your purpose well for £100.
 
Ray Flash is an option I have looked at, just have to check that it will fit a Sigma 500 DG Super Flash on a 40D.

Ray flash adapter is great until you get to about 1:2 magnification. At 1:1 the light is spread out too far out resulting in a slightly weird illumination. This is not an issue for me considering my subjects, but might be an issue for you. I find that external flash on a softbox works best given that there is ample time and space to set up.
 
OK, I think I've decided not to go with Ring Flash or Ray Flash and stick with the defused Sigma.

Went to Jessops today and bought a off camera TTL cable (first step) and will order the softbox on Monday.

Still looking into a flexible bracket though.
 
Back
Top