Zooming in help

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Clouds

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hi folks

question about zooming in, hope this makes sense

I have a canon bridge camera and if I am taking a picture of a building the settings all get done for me automatically. However I set my zoom lens to see the whole building but if I want to zoom in to one aspect of the building close up I just press the button and the lens zooms in.

I am about to get a manual camera

so lets say I have the camera in manual mode and have set the aperture, shutter speed and iso up how you want to be taking the photos and your using say a canon 24-105 and 4-7.1

you have all the setting aperture, shutter speed and iso up how you want to be and you have set the lens out at 24 as a wide angle and now want to narrow the field of view. I understand you would adjust the lens by turning it round to 105 ? but would you need to go and adjust all your shutter speed and iso again. I think the apeture would adjust itself ?

sorry but total newbie here

cheers
 
You shouldn't need to readjust the settings you've chosen in Manual mode. UNLESS you've chosen an aperture that's available at the short end but not the long. Your camera's manual will tell you what the maximum available aperture is at both ends of the zoom. If you don't have a copy of the manual, it's almost certainly available on the internet!
 
Nod said:
You shouldn't need to readjust the settings you've chosen in Manual mode. UNLESS you've chosen an aperture that's available at the short end but not the long. Your camera's manual will tell you what the maximum available aperture is at both ends of the zoom. If you don't have a copy of the manual, it's almost certainly available on the internet!
Click to expand...

thank you , not got my camera yet , still in research mode
 
An aside, but with a typical interchangeable lens camera, although you have the option to use 'full manual' and set Aperture, Shutter and ISO yourself, in a lot of situations people will actually use one of the 'semi-auto' modes - Aperture Priority or Shutter Priority - as often it is only one of the two you are particularly concerned with in terms of the effect on the image.
In these, you select the Aperture or Shutter Speed (depending on which of the two modes you are in), and let the camera pick the other for a reasonable exposure - letting you concentrate more on composition than on setting dials.
 
Clouds said:
hi folks

question about zooming in, hope this makes sense

I have a canon bridge camera and if I am taking a picture of a building the settings all get done for me automatically. However I set my zoom lens to see the whole building but if I want to zoom in to one aspect of the building close up I just press the button and the lens zooms in.

I am about to get a manual camera

so lets say I have the camera in manual mode and have set the aperture, shutter speed and iso up how you want to be taking the photos and your using say a canon 24-105 and 4-7.1

you have all the setting aperture, shutter speed and iso up how you want to be and you have set the lens out at 24 as a wide angle and now want to narrow the field of view. I understand you would adjust the lens by turning it round to 105 ? but would you need to go and adjust all your shutter speed and iso again. I think the apeture would adjust itself ?

sorry but total newbie here

cheers
Click to expand...
In short - for a properly exposed photo, it is likely you would need to adjust your shutter speed or ISO. Particularly given the lens in question has a max aperture of f4 at the 24mm end and f/7.1 at the 105mm end. If you are shooting at f/4 at 24mm and you then subsequently zoom in, your camera will automatically reflect the maximum aperture available at that given focal length so you will notice that the f/4 setting will rise on it's own to f/7.1. You could maintain your shutter speed, and shoot in auto ISO which will help you maintain well exposed images without more than relatively small adjustments to your exposure compensation
 
Faldrax said:
An aside, but with a typical interchangeable lens camera, although you have the option to use 'full manual' and set Aperture, Shutter and ISO yourself, in a lot of situations people will actually use one of the 'semi-auto' modes - Aperture Priority or Shutter Priority - as often it is only one of the two you are particularly concerned with in terms of the effect on the image.
In these, you select the Aperture or Shutter Speed (depending on which of the two modes you are in), and let the camera pick the other for a reasonable exposure - letting you concentrate more on composition than on setting dials.
Click to expand...

thank you very helpful
 
gilbouk said:
In short - for a properly exposed photo, it is likely you would need to adjust your shutter speed or ISO. Particularly given the lens in question has a max aperture of f4 at the 24mm end and f/7.1 at the 105mm end. If you are shooting at f/4 at 24mm and you then subsequently zoom in, your camera will automatically reflect the maximum aperture available at that given focal length so you will notice that the f/4 setting will rise on it's own to f/7.1. You could maintain your shutter speed, and shoot in auto ISO which will help you maintain well exposed images without more than relatively small adjustments to your exposure compensation
Click to expand...
thank you , glad the question made sense and I have understood all the answers:)
 
Remember to refocus if you aren't in AF - zooming can affect MF
 
Most 24-105mm lens are F4 through the range, I think I've seen one that was F3.5- 4.5. I cant remember seeing one with that big a gap between the long and short ends. I'm courious, what lens are you using? I'm wondering if it's a film camera.
 
swanseamale47 said:
Most 24-105mm lens are F4 through the range, I think I've seen one that was F3.5- 4.5. I cant remember seeing one with that big a gap between the long and short ends. I'm courious, what lens are you using? I'm wondering if it's a film camera.
Click to expand...
Sounds like the Canon RF kit lens.
 
swanseamale47 said:
Most 24-105mm lens are F4 through the range, I think I've seen one that was F3.5- 4.5. I cant remember seeing one with that big a gap between the long and short ends. I'm courious, what lens are you using? I'm wondering if it's a film camera.
Click to expand...
At a guess it’s the Canon RF 24-105 kit lens, as opposed to its f4 and f2.8 big brothers
 
One other thing to bear in mind is that if your original (wide) scene is quite bright, say for instance a building against a sunny blue sky, if you zoom in to a darker area (a wall that's in shade, or a black front door for instance), then even if the camera settings are the same, it might now be looking like your scene is underexposed so you'd need to make a change to increase the exposure anyway.
 
skullfunkerry said:
One other thing to bear in mind is that if your original (wide) scene is quite bright, say for instance a building against a sunny blue sky, if you zoom in to a darker area (a wall that's in shade, or a black front door for instance), then even if the camera settings are the same, it might now be looking like your scene is underexposed so you'd need to make a change to increase the exposure anyway.
Click to expand...
And this is why people shouldn’t shoot Manual and just chase the meter.

If we presume the area of interest should be correctly exposed in both instances.

Then the first image including lots of sky will show the detail as underexposed. And the second image (zoomed in and corrected) will likely show that detail as correctly exposed.

In reality, for that detail to be correctly exposed in both images, requires exp comp of some description
 
skullfunkerry said:
One other thing to bear in mind is that if your original (wide) scene is quite bright, say for instance a building against a sunny blue sky, if you zoom in to a darker area (a wall that's in shade, or a black front door for instance), then even if the camera settings are the same, it might now be looking like your scene is underexposed so you'd need to make a change to increase the exposure anyway.
Click to expand...
Depends entirely on the metering mode. But the exposure settings for any area do not change with changes of composition (zoom/distance/etc).
 
hi folks , thanks for the replies,
I havent decided on which camera to buy yet

the example lens was just plucked out of the options to provide an example

thanks again , I understand it all a bit better now . Your help much appreciated
 
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