YASHICA MG 1.

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pityacka

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Last week I bought a Yashica Electro 35 RF, and as a result I am now bitten by the RF bug. I have since acquired a Minolta Hi-Matic 9. Before things get out of hand, I am going to limit myself to a third and last RF.
I have my eye on a Yashica MG 1. I am aware that the lens is not as fast as on the electro 35, but from trawling the web the MG 1 also gets rave reviews. If I remember correctly, the later Yashica RFs did not suffer from the pad of death, Yashica having tackled the problem. The MG 1 was practically one of the last models from them. So will the pod be absent from an MG 1.
Hoping for some useful information re the MG 1.
Thanks.
 
I had a Voigtlander VF101 and a VF35 which were both superb. The 101 was probably the better camera but they are hard to find and quite expensive but the 35 was not far behind it.
 
You have the Yashica already and the Hi-Matic 9 of all the later camera's of that range is rated highly ,some are not, against such models as the 7sii.

So have a look at the Vivitar 35EE, very cheap at about £10-£15.00 or less and a great walkabout camera that takes a great shot, I feel that in the years to come it will be discovered and the price will increase in line with supply, so get a good, mint conditioned one now and save for the future.

PS, I think it was made by Cosina, who have made some of the best compact rangefinders for many top companies, that sell for very high prices.
 
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medwaygreen, Thanks for your info. It is only in the last few weeks, due to trawling on the internet, that I found Vivitar was a USA brand name, and their products were made by such as Cosina, as you mention, and others.
Still wondering about the pod re Yashicas, as there are conflicting views about the 'thump/clunk'. Yashica Guy, who I suppose is the expert, says that when the thump starts to appear, then it is a sign of the pad giving up.
 
pityacka said:
Still wondering about the pod re Yashicas, as there are conflicting views about the 'thump/clunk'. Yashica Guy, who I suppose is the expert, says that when the thump starts to appear, then it is a sign of the pad giving up.
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If the camera does not display any of the problems that the pad of death causes then I wouldn't worry too much about whether a loud clunk means pad of death/no pad of death problems. If the camera starts playing up, then you can look into replacing it.
 
freecom2 said:
If the camera does not display any of the problems that the pad of death causes then I wouldn't worry too much about whether a loud clunk means pad of death/no pad of death problems. If the camera starts playing up, then you can look into replacing it.
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Sound advice.:thumbs:
 
Thanks freecom2, and medway green. I have just finished 1st film with the Yashica so will soon see the results. As regards the MG 1 I found a site yesterday where the pod was mentioned in relation to the MG 1, so it looks as though the comments - 'later Yashica RFs did not suffer from it as Yashica tackled the problem..' is way off mark and just internet 'folk tales'.:D
 
Got my first film back today from using the Electro35, and on a few shots(negative film) there seems to be possible light leaks. Other shots, even the next one after a shot with the defect, does not suffer from this.
I have also had my hands on a Yashica MG1 today. It is working and I now realise what the clunk/thump is when a Yashica is working correctly.
My Electro 35 does not have that, yet as I say above,the majority of shots are fine.:bonk:
 
pityacka said:
Got my first film back today from using the Electro35, and on a few shots(negative film) there seems to be possible light leaks. Other shots, even the next one after a shot with the defect, does not suffer from this.
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Possibly lens flare? I only ask because the 45mm can be a bit prone to flare, especially without a hood.
 
You will usually find that if the light leaks are small then if you leave a long time between shots then the frames will be affected by the light leaks but if you take a series of shots quickly one after each other then there isn't much time for the light to get in so those frames are unaffected.

It also depends whether you put your camera back in your bag between shots or leave it in the sun while you sit down for a coffee.
 
Thanks, freecom2, and RaglanSurf, Both your points seem plausible. One or two shots I did consider to be lens flare. Also, I do believe that the possible light leak appears when there has been a period of time between some of the shots. I will have another look at them again.
I have also been searching the web re light seals on the Electros, and where they should be. The one near the hinge on the back of the camera is still in poisition, and not too bad. But there is nothing in the horizontal grooves above and below the film path, not even any residue, which set me wondering if seals should be fitted there. Web search shows that they should be there.
Somehwhere in the past on TP, light seals have been discussed, and there were suggestions for alternatives to the foam rubber. I will do another search in TP for that subject.
 
Here is a link to Jon Goodman's instructions on replacing the seal on the Electro 35 http://www.kyphoto.com/classics/seal/Yashica_Electro35.pdf

You will see from this the seals that should be present and helpfully the dimensions of some of the seals, in particular, the seal at the hinge side.

Where on the pictures are the light leaks evident? This should enable you to works out where on the camera the light is leaking in, bearing in mind that the image is reversed in the camera.
 
Thanks all for the interest. With a bit help from another, it looks like the light leak is at the rear hinge area. The camera is taking close to perfect shots, but on winding on, obviously the frame ends up near the hinge area, and the light leak affects it. With hindsight I think I may have been holding the camera with my right hand covering the hinge area on some occasions, which must have prevented some shots from being spoiled. I was also carrying the camera, when not in use, in a black cloth bag. Presumably that also helped.
Next film through I will tape over the hinge area, and also use a half case for the camera to see what happens. Result ? --- No light leak ? then I will know that the seal at the hinge needs replacing, and do the lot, hopefully.
 
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