Who has the exotic primes

Sootchucker

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Just a quick question I've been pondering.

My longest prime is currently a Nikon 300mm F4 AFS (which is a very good lens), and my longest Zoom would be the 70-200 F2.8 VR II combined with the TC-20E III converter (to give a 140-400mm F5.6 VR effective).

I've always felt that whilst these lenses give decent service, that a large aperture prime would be better (eg. 300 F2.8, 400 F2.8, 500 F4, 600 F4), however as some of these cost the price of a small car, as a purely amateur wildlife photographer, I just can't justify (or afford) the costs.

I was wondering therefore how many of the togs that regularly post in the Birds and Wildlife section of the forum actually own these lenses, and if so, did they actually make you a better photographer (i.e better photos) to justify the cost ? Also, how much is to do with fieldcraft and just getter closer with your "consumer or prosumer" lenses (be they primes or zooms) rather than the actual glass itself. I know there are situations and subjects where a safe distance needs to be kept and therefore there is no substiture for magnification.

The reason I ask, is that I was at a wildlife reserve last week shooting kingfishers (not literally), however with them being about 25-30 metres away, even with my 300mm and 2x converter on my full frame camera, they were still effectively dots in the viewfinder. There were a couple of other togs in the hide with me as well. One had a D300 with a 200-400 VR - no converter (so 600mm effective max), and one had a very impressive white 500mm F4 IS on his full frame Canon EOS IDs MK II. So although the "quality" of the lenses would have been much better than my povey setup, the actual magnification would have been no better, (i.e. still dots in the viewfinder). So in those instances it got me thinking if trying to get closer to your subject (within reason and where allowed) is better than super long lenses ?

I also noticed a few weeks ago, someone had posted some sublime photos in the Bird forum of a Kingfisher and these were taken with no more than a 70-200 F2.8 ??

Any thoughts (sorry for the rambling post) ?
 
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No matter what lens you get Andrew, you will always need/want more reach. I was shooting last week with my 200-400mm with the 2 x. I still wished that I had more...


Kev.

mmm. 600mm + 2 x converter...:thinking::D
 
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Have you considered bypassing zoom lenses in favour of a spotting scope with SLR adaptor? I'm not sure what advantages there will be regarding reach, but maybe a cheaper alternative? Dunno, just a thought really.
 
No matter what lens you get Andrew, you will always need/want more reach. I was shooting last week with my 200-400mm with the 2 x. I still wished that I had more...
mmm. 600mm + 2 x converter...:thinking::D

Kev.....I've got a 600mm + 2x and still want more reach.....

Bob
 
Kev.....I've got a 600mm + 2x and still want more reach.....

Bob

Don't tell me that's on a crop factor 1D4!

Don't the earth surface start to bend at that distance!!!!

Mind you, I had an old manual 300mm with a 2x on an G3! Problem is no IS!
 
Don't tell me that's on a crop factor 1D4!

Don't the earth surface start to bend at that distance!!!!

It is on a 1D4 but that doesn't increase the magnification.

As for seeing the curvature of the earth....not quite. Out here in summer, it's difficult to shoot much more than about 15m at 1200mm due to distortion caused by heat haze between the lens and subject....it limits the usefulness to small birds. Cooler and clearer winter mornings are when it is worth a punt.

Bob
 
Buy a V1 and FT1 adapter. That way, your 300mm/4 becomes an 810mm f4 with af-s focus on the centre point. That's before you add in TC options, although you will likely focus manually (...dont worry, the finder is good enough).

With your 2x converter, you have 1620mm of reach at f/8... in good light keeping your iso down that's better than most digiscoping setups.

I consider the V1 as a specialist teleconverter, one which incidentally gives me a fast and capable compact to travel with. My flickr (danbroad1000) has examples of how close you can get.
 
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I use a Nikon 300mm AFS 2 f2.8 with a range of convertors, for me, you have to be able to carry your kit to the site. Mobility is the thing for me. Then get as close as you can to the subject.
I've had a monster lens and it was a pain - you can guess where . . .
 
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Everyone has to justify the cost to themselves.

I'm REALLY into wildlife photography. I never got into photography in the traditional way where people just like photography for photography sake. The only reason i pick up a camera in anger is to take photos of wildlife.

I've spent a lot of money on it (i own a Canon 500 F4 and have the new 600 F4 mk2 on order :nuts:). It's brought me more happiness than anything else i can think of that i could have spent the money on instead and i don't remotely regret any of it at all.

You'll have to decide for yourself. If you really love what you do and spend a lot of time doing it then it's great having equipment like that.


Just a quick question I've been pondering.

My longest prime is currently a Nikon 300mm F4 AFS (which is a very good lens), and my longest Zoom would be the 70-200 F2.8 VR II combined with the TC-20E III converter (to give a 140-400mm F5.6 VR effective).

I've always felt that whilst these lenses give decent service, that a large aperture prime would be better (eg. 300 F2.8, 400 F2.8, 500 F4, 600 F4), however as some of these cost the price of a small car, as a purely amateur wildlife photographer, I just can't justify (or afford) the costs.

I was wondering therefore how many of the togs that regularly post in the Birds and Wildlife section of the forum actually own these lenses, and if so, did they actually make you a better photographer (i.e better photos) to justify the cost ? Also, how much is to do with fieldcraft and just getter closer with your "consumer or prosumer" lenses (be they primes or zooms) rather than the actual glass itself. I know there are situations and subjects where a safe distance needs to be kept and therefore there is no substiture for magnification.

The reason I ask, is that I was at a wildlife reserve last week shooting kingfishers (not literally), however with them being about 25-30 metres away, even with my 300mm and 2x converter on my full frame camera, they were still effectively dots in the viewfinder. There were a couple of other togs in the hide with me as well. One had a D300 with a 200-400 VR - no converter (so 600mm effective max), and one had a very impressive white 500mm F4 IS on his full frame Canon EOS IDs MK II. So although the "quality" of the lenses would have been much better than my povey setup, the actual magnification would have been no better, (i.e. still dots in the viewfinder). So in those instances it got me thinking if trying to get closer to your subject (within reason and where allowed) is better than super long lenses ?

I also noticed a few weeks ago, someone had posted some sublime photos in the Bird forum of a Kingfisher and these were taken with no more than a 70-200 F2.8 ??

Any thoughts (sorry for the rambling post) ?
 
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I have a full set but I'm sorry to say I rarely have any time to actually use them, they just sit in the safe at work most of the time :(

The key to decent shots is getting close enough, kingfishers from a hide are pretty easy hence why people are able to shoot at 200mm or so
 
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The beauty of the V1 against buying a new lens is that you already have a superb prime in the 300/4. Even a 600/4 with a 2xTC on a 1.5x crop only gets you to around the same effective angle of view [and the same maximum aperture], but a V1 saves you around £7000 on that setup, given that you'd have to buy both a new lens and a new crop body!

The V1 is the cheapest and most effective way of taking what you have and giving you ultra-reach. Beware, though, it's hard work at that focal length, not so much in focusing [I actually prefer manual focus for accuracy here] but in finding the target in the first place! I use a sort of modified two-eye technique to get the lens pointing in the right direction...
 
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