White display stand against a white wall... how?

Trev Rich

Trev Rich

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Hi guys.
Struggling to light this properly. (Even more so as I have forgot to charge the batteries!!!)

OK.. I have 2 off camera flashguns... a shoot through brolly and one with a deflector as shown. I also have a softbox too.

But thats it, 2 lights.
The problem is that it's a white wallrack, against a white wall and with 2 lights I'm struggling to get soft shadows.
I seem to do okay with a drop down background / floor but against a wall it's doing my nut in....

Can anyone give me any advice?
Cheers :thumbs:

(excuse the messy office ROFL!!!)


white-lighting.jpg
 
You light is far too far away.
Problem is, if you move it to the distance it needs to be it won't be big enough, so you need two, one immediately above the other - effectively making 1 big one
 
Trev Rich said:
Thanks, but will that cause big shadows behind the subject?
Click to expand...
Yes, unless you move the subject away from the background and light the background separately
 
Thats my problem, They have to be against a wall to show what they are for, but I dont want really harsh shadows, I want to be able to light it where the wall is nice and white and the shadows are soft.
 
Trev Rich said:
Thats my problem, They have to be against a wall to show what they are for, but I dont want really harsh shadows, I want to be able to light it where the wall is nice and white and the shadows are soft.
Click to expand...
Your real problem is lack of both equipment and knowledge.
The solution is to send the image to Clipping Paths Asia, ask them to cut it out from the background, place it on a transparent background and introduce a shadow to make it look real. When you get it back you simply adjust the opacity in PS until you're happy with the result.

It's a very simple job for them and their turnaround time is excellent.
 
Ok done it with two lights.
Bounced one on high power off of the ceiling slightly to the left of subject, and used a erflecting umbrella medium just off mid center to the right of the subject.

Good times :)
 
OK...
You'll struggle to do this with hotshoe flashguns because of lack of power, lack of modelling lamps and because nearly all of them have fixed reflectors that don't distribute their energy in an uncontrolled way, which is needed for softboxes. Studio flash is so much better for this that it's almost a 'must have'.

To get it looking real it will have to be fixed in place so that it is real. Decide on the camera position that gives the best view of the subject, which is probably a little to one side and fairly square, but maybe looking down just a little.

Now place a large softbox to the left of the subject, it wants to be square to the subject so that the light is even but it also needs to create shadows that go down to some extent (because that looks natural) so you may have to compromise a bit and point down a bit. Place it at a distance and in a position that produces well defined shadows that aren't too big.

The softbox doesn't have to be on the left but as we read from left to right it's a logical place to have them because we see the subject before we see the shadow.

You're now left with a shadow that is of the right size and going in the right direction but probably a bit too strong. Place a second light, fitted with a similar softbox, to the right of the subject and at an angle that, according to the modelling lamp, pretty much wipes out the shadow - but set it at a lower power so that it only mitigates the shadow to the point where it looks natural without being obtrusive, and doesn't
a. destroy the shadow
b. create its own shadow.

That's a short answer, but enough to get you started
 
Trev Rich said:
Ok done it with two lights.
Bounced one on high power off of the ceiling slightly to the left of subject, and used a erflecting umbrella medium just off mid center to the right of the subject.

Good times :)
Click to expand...

Well, as long as you're happy with the results of that...
 
Garry Edwards said:
OK...
You'll struggle to do this with hotshoe flashguns because of lack of power, lack of modelling lamps and because nearly all of them have fixed reflectors that don't distribute their energy in an uncontrolled way, which is needed for softboxes. Studio flash is so much better for this that it's almost a 'must have'.

To get it looking real it will have to be fixed in place so that it is real. Decide on the camera position that gives the best view of the subject, which is probably a little to one side and fairly square, but maybe looking down just a little.

Now place a large softbox to the left of the subject, it wants to be square to the subject so that the light is even but it also needs to create shadows that go down to some extent (because that looks natural) so you may have to compromise a bit and point down a bit. Place it at a distance and in a position that produces well defined shadows that aren't too big.

The softbox doesn't have to be on the left but as we read from left to right it's a logical place to have them because we see the subject before we see the shadow.

You're now left with a shadow that is of the right size and going in the right direction but probably a bit too strong. Place a second light, fitted with a similar softbox, to the right of the subject and at an angle that, according to the modelling lamp, pretty much wipes out the shadow - but set it at a lower power so that it only mitigates the shadow to the point where it looks natural without being obtrusive, and doesn't
a. destroy the shadow
b. create its own shadow.

That's a short answer, but enough to get you started
Click to expand...

Thanks Gary, Awesome advice.
Flashguns are very variable, especially as the batteries lose charge.
The power of light is inconsistant, but gets me by on outdoor portrait shoots as its very mobile and no need of a power source such as a generator.

I will definitely look into investing in some studio lighting though.

I will have a go at teh method you suggested later, but for now time is pressing and these shots are more than acceptable.


Is it flare from the flash that can make the subject look out of focus?
Not sure if my camera is playing up or the light was interferring. :thumbs:
 
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