Which rawplug?

tonyq

tonyq

Suspended / Banned
Messages
236
Edit My Images
Yes
My son is moving into a new house shortly, and will have a few fittings to put up mirrors/clock, towel rails ect. Can anyone point me to a good web site that explains what type of rawplug fitting and how to use, for what occasion.
 
I wouldn't use rawlplugs for any of that stuff on plasterboard walls, only solid walls. You'll need proper dry wall fixings for plasterboard. B&Q have all you'll need.
 
I presume they will be plasterboard walls. So fittings to suit. I believe you can buy gadgets to find out where the timber frames are under the plasterboard, which would be better to screw to. Any suggestions as to which to buy at a reasonable price
 
Fixing to the batons behind the plasterboard is your best bet.

It's easy to locate the batons without a gadget but a gadget will also help you locate electrical wires and water pipes.

If the plasterboard is in decent nick you would be suprised what you can secure without fixing to the batons.

For lightweight stuff the screw in plasterboard fixings (self drills) are OK. You push them in then screw in. Your actual screw then beds into these.

http://www.screwfix.com/c/screws-nails-fixings/self-drills/cat840116

For heavier stuff you can use 'spring toggles' or 'anchors' which work by opening up or splaying tight against the rear of the plasterboard as the screw is tightened.

http://www.screwfix.com/c/screws-nails-fixings/plasterboard-anchors/cat840114

http://www.screwfix.com/c/screws-nails-fixings/spring-toggle/cat840118

My house has 3 foot thick rough stone walls. Sometimes there is a large gap behind the plasterboard so longer fixings aren't an issue. Sometimes a stone can be quite close behind the plasterboard so I may have to cut plastic fixings to fit.

Curtain Poles (fixed in 3 places) are an old favourite when it comes to plasterboard especially if they've been replaced a few times. In the end I've always mounted a wooden fascia right above the length of the window fixed at more points to the plasterboard (covering previous holes) then the curtain pole brackets can be fixed more securely to the wood.
 
Last edited:
tonyq said:
I presume they will be plasterboard walls. So fittings to suit. I believe you can buy gadgets to find out where the timber frames are under the plasterboard, which would be better to screw to. Any suggestions as to which to buy at a reasonable price
Click to expand...


I've got this (well the earlier version)

http://www.powertoolworld.co.uk/bos...ssional.html?gclid=CPfmjeawrr0CFeee2wodlI8Aqw

but I use a small magnet on a string. Just swing it slowly like a pendulum against the wall, the studs are usually 16inches apart so work your way in from a corner about 16inches in and swing the magnet and slowly move down the wall.

It will stick to a nail (hopefully in a stud) so mark it with a pencil, then use the magnet and string as a plumb and drop it straight down from the mark it should pick up other nails proving its a stud and not something just embedded in the plaster board.


Watch this if you think detectors are worth buying
 
Watch out for hidden plastic pipes! How old is the house he's buying?

If you do go for rawlplugs then buy the uno rawlplugs - good bit of kit and work in plasterboard too providing your not ganging anything too heavy!
 
tonyq said:
Picsta,
The house he is buying is newly built.
Click to expand...
It will be plasterboard walls then. Pictures will hang with just a small nail (as long as they aren't too heavy).

Most other things will be best with the screw in plasterboard fixings as they spread the load - just don't over tighten them.

Really heavy items such as book shelves etc your best off finding the noggins to screw into.
 
Learn something every day!
I had never heard of Noggins in relation to frames before,nice to learn.
 
Noggins are the studs within the wall.

When you have examples (and possibly pics) of items you want to hang and where then feel free to shout for specific advice.

Where abouts is the house anyways as if it's local I could lend a stud finder.
 
external and party walls will be dot and dabbed
 
Picsta,
the house is in the Rochdale/Milnrow area.
What make/model of stud finder do you use?

terryuk,
whats "dot and dabbed"?
 
Unfortunately your miles away from me, but I use a Bosch detector, I can switch between studs, metal and electrical and it will pin point the centres for me. Like all things it's not completely fool proof but makes it a lot easier!
 
tonyq said:
Picsta,
the house is in the Rochdale/Milnrow area.
What make/model of stud finder do you use?

terryuk,
whats "dot and dabbed"?
Click to expand...
plasterboard stuck onto block work with adhesive
it creates a small gap between the blocks and plasterboard, it is then either joint and taped or skimmed with plaster
 
foggy4ever,
which Takker do you have? and do you find they work well on all walls or just plasterboard.
 
The method i and many in the building industry use to find stud behind plasterboard is to simply use a knuckle to knock along the wall listening for a sound change when you encounter a stud. Worked for me for donkeys years, wood of metal made no difference.
 
tonyq said:
foggy4ever,
which Takker do you have? and do you find they work well on all walls or just plasterboard.
Click to expand...
I have the one I linked to, it is designed for plasterboard walls only but is very quick and easy to use. I do believe they have brought out a new model to tackle tougher walls but I haven't seen any reviews for it yet.
 
Cuddy said:
The method i and many in the building industry use to find stud behind plasterboard is to simply use a knuckle to knock along the wall listening for a sound change when you encounter a stud. Worked for me for donkeys years, wood of metal made no difference.
Click to expand...

Works well, except for hidden pipes etc. but if you look out for pipe runs etc a bit of common sense can help you work it out.
 
my walls are concrete blocks without any cavity, but I have just used these to wall mount a 50" plasma. I'm pretty sure you could hang a bus off it they are that strong. Think they are primarily designed for dot/dab walls. Got a pack of 10 of the m6 variety for about 8 quid off ebay
 
Thank you all for your help/advice. Just ordered a Takker for him, start with the small stuff first!
I may be back!
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top