Which Olympus film camera?

travellingcello

travellingcello

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Hi folks,

Have been delving into film photography recently for the first time and am getting sucked into it.

I'm playing around with a Zenit-B and Canon FX cameras which is great but I'm starting to feel a bit limited because of the lenses I currently have - the Zenit came with the cheap-as-chips Industar 50 3.5, and I'm only a little better off with the FX with the 50 1.8FL and Sigma 80-200 3.5-4 High Speed.

I didn't buy either but,

I'm thinking that i should just merge and have one film system with lenses that I can use on both my digital (Canon) and film systems, and I already own 2 OM Zuiko lenses which I have been using on my 5D and know are good (24 2.8 + 50 1.4).

I've been trying to do a bit of research on which OM Film cameras are good, but it seems that overview information is hard to come by and I'm getting more confused as to what is what.

Can somebody recommend me a good decent OM body? I want it to be as mechanical as possible without it being as cumbersome as the Zenit B!!!
 
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From memory the om 1 was all mechanical, albeit nicer to use than the zenit's then the range slowly added features until you amazingly got spot metering with the om 4sp.
Go for an om 1 or 2 and have some fun! Back then the camera choice was far less important than today - it was all about the lens. Happy times !!
 
The OM1-4 are all very well regarded cameras. The OM1 used discontinued mercury batteries, so you will have to buy expensive alternatives or have to spend money modifying it, so probably not the best choice. The best value option, IMO, is probably an OM2. OM3 and OM4 models get expensive quickly.
 
I've got one or two Olympus bodies.

The Pro series bodies are the most durable and have a better build quality these are the OM1/n, OM2/n OM2SP, OM3/T/Ti and OM4/T/Ti, the amateur series bodies are less well built and are designated as OM10, OM20, OM30 & OM40. The odd numbered pro bodies (OM1/n and OM3/T/Ti) are fully manual and only use battery power for their metering, the even numbered bodies are Aperture priority/manual with the exception of the OM2SP (spot/program) which has a program mode too. The later bodies are the OM3/T/Ti and the OM4/T/Ti and all have a fantastic spot meter with shadow/highlight function the T and Ti are exactly the same the T was the American designation, the Ti the European the OM3 and OM4 were the earlier incarnations and along with the OM2SP are rumoured to have battery problems, this can be true but some later ones had this remedied, the OM3/4 T/Ti did not have the battery problems.

Okay, as it is the season of goodwill and all that, I can make you an offer. I have an OM2n that has just been CLA'd by Miles Whitehead but there is a problem with it, it only works properly in Auto (not that that's a bad thing, as the OM2n has a great Auto mode with off the film plane metering for both flash and ambient). If you would like to cover the postage, you can have it, this will give you the opportunity to try a pro series Olympus body with more functionality than an OM10 (OM10 does not have OTF flash metering) and if you decide you like it you can buy a fully functional one or an OM3/4/Ti.
 
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Just a thought:- quite a few digital guys are using M42 screw lenses (a hobby in itself for some lovely results), but Olympus cannot use them without problems.
 
excalibur2 said:
Just a thought:- quite a few digital guys are using M42 screw lenses (a hobby in itself for some lovely results), but Olympus cannot use them without problems.
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Bit confused by this, whilst what you say is not incorrect, i don't see what bearing it has on this thread.

The OP has a couple of OM fit lenses that he uses on his EOS fit Canon, he is thinking of buying an OM film body, where does the M42 lenses come into the equation?
 
EdBray said:
Bit confused by this, whilst what you say is not incorrect, i don't see what bearing it has on this thread.

The OP has a couple of OM fit lenses that he uses on his EOS fit Canon, he is thinking of buying an OM film body, where does the M42 lenses come into the equation?
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Well he already has some screw lenses and from his post:- "I'm thinking that I should just merge and have one film system with lenses that I can use on both my digital (Canon) and film systems" :shrug:
 
excalibur2 said:
Well he already has some screw lenses and from his post:- "I'm thinking that I should just merge and have one film system with lenses that I can use on both my digital (Canon) and film systems" :shrug:
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Sorry Brian, it still doesn't read that way to me, the Industar is the only M42 mount lens he mentions the Canon mentioned had it's own mount and he is specifically asking about Olympus bodies.
 
EdBray said:
Sorry Brian, it still doesn't read that way to me, the Industar is the only M42 mount lens he mentions the Canon mentioned had it's own mount and he is specifically asking about Olympus bodies.
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well I did say "Just a thought" and he did say "delving into film photography recently for the first time" ...;)
 
You can't go wrong with an Oly, you should of heard the gasps of Pleasure Dave was emitting when I handed him my 4Ti and 50mm f1.4.

I love my OM2SP, it's simple and so far has proved rugged and reliable. My batteries last around 20 rolls.

The 4(and 3 if you can afford one) has an incredible metering system, but it does annoy me that it reverts back to average metering after each shot!

Basically they're all good!
 
EdBray said:
I've got one or two Olympus bodies.

The Pro series bodies are the most durable and have a better build quality these are the OM1/n, OM2/n OM2SP, OM3/T/Ti and OM4/T/Ti, the amateur series bodies are less well built and are designated as OM10, OM20, OM30 & OM40. The odd numbered pro bodies (OM1/n and OM3/T/Ti) are fully manual and only use battery power for their metering, the even numbered bodies are Aperture priority/manual with the exception of the OM2SP (spot/program) which has a program mode too. The later bodies are the OM3/T/Ti and the OM4/T/Ti and all have a fantastic spot meter with shadow/highlight function the T and Ti are exactly the same the T was the American designation, the Ti the European the OM3 and OM4 were the earlier incarnations and along with the OM2SP are rumoured to have battery problems, this can be true but some later ones had this remedied, the OM3/4 T/Ti did not have the battery problems.

Okay, as it is the season of goodwill and all that, I can make you an offer. I have an OM2n that has just been CLA'd by Miles Whitehead but there is a problem with it, it only works properly in Auto (not that that's a bad thing, as the OM2n has a great Auto mode with off the film plane metering for both flash and ambient). If you would like to cover the postage, you can have it, this will give you the opportunity to try a pro series Olympus body with more functionality than an OM10 (OM10 does not have OTF flash metering) and if you decide you like it you can buy a fully functional one or an OM3/4/Ti.
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Hi Ed,

That's a very kind gesture of goodwill from you, I would definitely be happy to take that off your hands - I'll send you a PM now!

Thanks

Jun
 
Whilst we are on this topic, how much should one expect to pay for a decent condition OM2n?

I'm looking on eBay and it seems to be around £70ish for a OM2n - if I look on camera shop websites it seems to be about £70 for a OM1... up to about £200!
 
I used to love my OM 2SP it was a great camera and the spot metering really good.

I wish I hadnt gotten rid of it but one of my hobbies to give at the time.
 
travellingcello said:
Whilst we are on this topic, how much should one expect to pay for a decent condition OM2n?

I'm looking on eBay and it seems to be around £70ish for a OM2n - if I look on camera shop websites it seems to be about £70 for a OM1... up to about £200!
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The prices you quote are not too far off although be aware that you may find that you need to factor in the cost of a light seal replacement and the cost of a CLA.

Send me a PM of your address and I'll get the OM2n off to you.
 
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I've asked Ed this already through PM but which camera do you think is the most satisfying to use ? I'm teetering towards getting a 1 or 3 because they are purely mechanical (although i hear that the 3 will be expensive?) or are the 2 and 4 vastly better as a camera or just different?
 
For reference, Collectable Cameras (who I consider to be a very reasonably priced dealer) have an OM-3 for sale at the moment. Description is:
"This camera works perfectly and has had a recent full service and seals replaced. Nice screen, smooth controls. Signs of normal to heavy use cosmetically including general paint loss and a couple of cosmetic dings. Perfect to use and a massive bargain!"

and that is £239, body only. Yes, it has been serviced, but it is still a brassed body!
 
travellingcello said:
I've asked Ed this already through PM but which camera do you think is the most satisfying to use ? I'm teetering towards getting a 1 or 3 because they are purely mechanical (although i hear that the 3 will be expensive?) or are the 2 and 4 vastly better as a camera or just different?
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The general rumour is that the 3s all started out as 4s, but had their electric shutter taken out and replaced with mechanical. Supposedly the 3Ti has a better film advance than any of the others also. The 3Ti also has something unique about it's flash system but I can't remember what it was now.

Again I find the 2SP most satisfying to use because of the spot meter. I don't know if my eyes are playing tricks but I'm fairly certain the viewfinder is slightly bigger and brighter than the 4Ti as well. (Ed can you confirm?)
 
travellingcello said:
I've asked Ed this already through PM but which camera do you think is the most satisfying to use ? I'm teetering towards getting a 1 or 3 because they are purely mechanical (although i hear that the 3 will be expensive?) or are the 2 and 4 vastly better as a camera or just different?
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PM replied to, twice (added some further info in the 2nd)

Alan Clogwyn said:
The general rumour is that the 3s all started out as 4s, but had their electric shutter taken out and replaced with mechanical. Supposedly the 3Ti has a better film advance than any of the others also. The 3Ti also has something unique about it's flash system but I can't remember what it was now.

Again I find the 2SP most satisfying to use because of the spot meter. I don't know if my eyes are playing tricks but I'm fairly certain the viewfinder is slightly bigger and brighter than the 4Ti as well. (Ed can you confirm?)
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Alan, I cannot confirm anything at the moment I'm afraid, I have had to clear out my computer room/study/camera storage room :'( (otherwise known by my wife as the 'Dining Room') as we have all (and I mean all) the family coming around for Christmas Dinner tomorrow :thumbsdown: (I'm 'on standby' and have arranged for a call out to happen at around 3pm so I can disappear somewhere quiet for an hour or two until they have all buggered off home). :thumbs:

Then on Monday I can start putting all my stuff back into said room! :thumbs:
 
The 2sp is a cracking camera, with one major (and purely cosmetic) flaw. The shutter on actuation sounds like its wading through custard! It's quite loud and distinctive but you do get used to it!
 
travellingcello said:
I've asked Ed this already through PM but which camera do you think is the most satisfying to use ? I'm teetering towards getting a 1 or 3 because they are purely mechanical (although i hear that the 3 will be expensive?) or are the 2 and 4 vastly better as a camera or just different?
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Only if you think that £400+ is a bit toppy:naughty::naughty:
 
freecom2 said:
For reference, Collectable Cameras (who I consider to be a very reasonably priced dealer) have an OM-3 for sale at the moment. Description is:
"This camera works perfectly and has had a recent full service and seals replaced. Nice screen, smooth controls. Signs of normal to heavy use cosmetically including general paint loss and a couple of cosmetic dings. Perfect to use and a massive bargain!"

and that is £239, body only. Yes, it has been serviced, but it is still a brassed body!
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I love fair wear and tear paint loss so I'd never walk past a body on the basis of "perfect in the past". Not least because it spares me getting all anal about not putting a camera in my pocket or bouncing it around the car.:bang::bang:

I don't think that's a bad price at all for an OM-3 and I'm just glad that I'm buying nowt now until the New Year. I need one some day to make up the set of OM1-4 bods.
 
Indeed, a bit of brassing never hurt. The Nikon F2 that I had looked better for it, I think, and it isn't always the best way of judging a camera necessarily.
 
I'm another Olympus fan, and have an OM1n and an OM2n, but I started out on an OM10 and love it, and also have OM20, OM30, OM40 OM101 and OM707.

Digically I have an E500, an E3 and an EP3 with a Panasonic L1 hiding in between, (same as an E330 basically).
 
I liked the OM4ti the best.
For me the Olympus range were not quite as well build,for the pro Market,as say the Nikon F or the Pentax LX :)
 
I've used the OM-1n, OM-2n, OM10 and OM40. I think if you are sure you want to use Olympus then spend more and get the OM-2n or SP, if you want to dip your toe in the OM system water before spending a ton on single digit bodies get the OM-40.

It's an electronic camera (it needs a couple of cheap AG-13 coin batteries to work), so not mechanical but will give you a good feel for the system, it's well equipped and is nice to use. Can usually get a decent body for under £30, i sold a great condition one on eBay once for £5.
 
Bah I'm so torn between the OM1n , the OM2n and the OM2 SP.

The problem is for one in reasonable condition they are all about the same price... which makes choosing difficult.

I like the idea of the OM1n even though its the oldest and has supposedly less advanced metering technology out of the three, because its purely mechanical .....even if it does use outdated batteries. But I have read since that you can buy battery adapters to use the cheaper newer batteries for about £20 - and its useable in less than ideal conditions because its more mechanical.

The OM2n sounds like the most logical body to get - I 've read various comments around the web now that its a good starting point for diving into the OM film system because of its more advanced metering system.

The OM2 SP sounds like the best camera out of the 3 although it also sounds like it could be the biggest pain in the butt out of the 3.. From what I've read it can be a bit hit and miss mechanically , and the battery drain problems exist in all of them. Also the circuitry isn't replaceable if something goes wrong? I have a feeling I should avoid buying one of these... plus I don't like the rubbish looking electronic timer ;)

From my homework all 3 can be had for around £70/80 in pretty good condition from reputeable camera shops.... I think I will avoid eBay for this purchase considering that its not unlikely that something may be amiss. ... or take up Ed's offer!

Which should I get???!!! I'm sure I haven't fully understood the advantages/negatives of each camera.


Edit: my Zenit is KIA, has a none-functioning mirror as of today. Not sure its worth fixing and have no idea how to fix it. Must be a bad day because the mirror on my FX is also starting to play up, doesnt drop down until I fiddle with the aperture lever after taking a frame...
 
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With electronics, the biggest thing to bear in mind that some of these cameras are 30+ years old, and that comes with problems*. Whilst the electronics may be sound when you purchase them and may be fine for many years (as is the case in many camera bodies that rely on electrics), if they suffer any major electrical failures the only fix may be a completely new donor circuit board from a spares body. However, if a mechanical body suffers a major problem, a skilled camera repairman (and they are still out there) will often get it back up and running and back to factory tolerances.

I think that's the real concern with cameras that rely on circuitboards, more than battery concerns. Just keep spares on you, I think people make it more of a problem than it realistically is.

Instead of a costly battery adapter, it may be worth contacting a camera repairman and asking if they can alter the camera so it runs off 1.5V instead of the 1.35V from mercury cells, and include that in the cost of a CLA. Then, you'll have no headaches with battery adaptations and a fully serviced camera ready to go...

*many cameras will be absolutely fine well past 30 years, and cameras of the age were built to last, but usage (and misuse) can take its toll on even the best built
 
So I guess you are saying perhaps the OM2 SP isn't a good idea?

Which out of the OM1N and OM2N would you think?;)
 
freecom2 said:
With electronics, the biggest thing to bear in mind that some of these cameras are 30+ years old, and that comes with problems*. Whilst the electronics may be sound when you purchase them and may be fine for many years (as is the case in many camera bodies that rely on electrics), if they suffer any major electrical failures the only fix may be a completely new donor circuit board from a spares body. However, if a mechanical body suffers a major problem, a skilled camera repairman (and they are still out there) will often get it back up and running and back to factory tolerances.

I think that's the real concern with cameras that rely on circuitboards, more than battery concerns. Just keep spares on you, I think people make it more of a problem than it realistically is.

Instead of a costly battery adapter, it may be worth contacting a camera repairman and asking if they can alter the camera so it runs off 1.5V instead of the 1.35V from mercury cells, and include that in the cost of a CLA. Then, you'll have no headaches with battery adaptations and a fully serviced camera ready to go...

*many cameras will be absolutely fine well past 30 years, and cameras of the age were built to last, but usage (and misuse) can take its toll on even the best built
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Strangely enough I gave this advice to Jun in a PM earlier today. Using the older batteries though is not that much of a problem, Wein make a 1.35V battery for the OM1n, they last about a year and if you buy them in pairs from the US they are not that expensive you can get a pair for under a tenner and a pack of four can be had for under £16.

Having owned all of the models discussed except for the OM3/T/Ti and not wanting to spend OM3/4 money I personally would plump for an OM2n over an OM1n every day of the week, not because of the battery issue, that is not a big issue, just that the OM2n gives the best of both worlds and then there's the OTFP flash and ambient metering I mainly used my OM2ns in manual mode, once you get used to how the needle responds it can give you a lot more information than just centering the needle for an average grey. As for the batteries required for the OM2n a couple of spare SR44s do not take up very much room.

There is a reason why the OM2n was the mainstay of a large number of professionals in the late 70s and early 80s, it wasn't only for the superb Zuiko glass.
 
EdBray said:
Strangely enough I gave this advice to Jun in a PM earlier today. Using the older batteries though is not that much of a problem, Wein make a 1.35V battery for the OM1n, they last about a year and if you buy them in pairs from the US they are not that expensive you can get a pair for under a tenner and a pack of four can be had for under £16.

Having owned all of the models discussed except for the OM3/T/Ti and not wanting to spend OM3/4 money I personally would plump for an OM2n over an OM1n every day of the week, not because of the battery issue, that is not a big issue, just that the OM2n gives the best of both worlds and then there's the OTFP flash and ambient metering I mainly used my OM2ns in manual mode, once you get used to how the needle responds it can give you a lot more information than just centering the needle for an average grey. As for the batteries required for the OM2n a couple of spare SR44s do not take up very much room.

There is a reason why the OM2n was the mainstay of a large number of professionals in the late 70s and early 80s, it wasn't only for the superb Zuiko glass.
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So maybe Ed I should just buy your functional OM2n? It sounds like thats the best plan really!

And Ed I didn't disregard your advice on modifying the camera to accept 1.5V batteries, just thought that using a £20 battery adapter might be cheaper than sending it off - also read about botched operations on modifications which scared me a bit.
 
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