Which monitor calibration system? (for Mac and Windows)

Buck

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Adrian
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Hi

I recently upgraded to Mavericks OS on my Mac and my SpyderPro 2 is no longer compatible.

I'm looking to get a new calibration system and wondered if you have any recommendations? Whilst mainly for my Mac, i'd also want to be able to use it on our windows machines.

I've been looking at the X-rite ColorMunki Display on offer at Wex for £109. Any thoughts/experiences on this or any different recommendations around that price point?

thanks
 
I use spyder3pro on osx 10.8 and Windows 7. Not sure if 10.9 is supported.
 
I've always used the i1Display series - probably just as good as the Spyder. It works with Windows including 8.1
 
Definitely the Color Munki. Probably the best available at that price. Just switch off all the crap that adjusts your screen with ambient light variations though.... pointless addition to teh software that.
 
Thanks guys - I'll look at the Spyder4 Pro and ColorMunki - I think the ColorMunki is edging it :)


Thanks again
 
colormunki Photo - Great for also doing printer profiles :)
 
Thanks all - ordered the Color Munki Display
 
Arrived yesterday and very easy to install and use on both Mac and Windows OS.

Pleased that my Mac wasn't too far out but good to know it has been properly calibrated

Would recommend this to anyone in a similar position.
 
Select your paper.

Select the profile printer option and follow the steps. It's important that the colour management insikde the printer driver is switched to off. It's important you select a suitable paper type.

Save the settings in the driver (call it the name of the paper)

Print the sample sheet and scan it (instructions are there). Now do the second sheet of paper making sure the printer driver settings are the same as the last one.

Let dry and Scan as per instructions. Save the profile.

Now in Photoshop, in the print dialogue box set Photoshop to managhe the colour. ow the paper Profiles can be selected. Select the right one and again make sure all driver settings are the same as previoiusly (this is why saving the profile in the driver is good).

And then print......

Sounds a lot but in practice easy
 
I had colormunki photo and quickly got rid of it , terrible bit of useless equipment, printing 2 sample sheets on expensive photographic paper every 2/3 weeks for one reason cost a small fortune, second you had to alter your computer profile which sods up the original computer manufactures own and 3rd you can never ever get an exact copy anyway from screen to printer and one is back lighted and the hard copy isn't.
One top of that scanning each correctional copy takes for ever unless you have quick drying photo paper and again you have to reset for different papers be it matt or glossy etc. To sum up you actually spend so much time setting up ColorMunki photo and worry about getting it correct it just is not worth bothering with.

Think of it, first you want to print on gloss photo paper, you have to calibrate/profile for that then someone want the same photo in matt so recalibrate yet again. So you have to scan for gloss taking 2 sheets of photo paper to do a print then same again for matt and other 2 sheets of expensive photo paper, oh and if you switch on a light start all over again. Opps forgot has to be done on A4 photo paper as well. you are bound to mess up several times before getting it nearly right anyway

Quote from Jim "
It's important that the colour management insikde the printer driver is switched to off. It's important you select a suitable paper type." So its not only me saying it, you even have to reset it depending on the light source. It needs recalibrating each time with different ambient light.

My advice is to avoid it like the plague and get a good IPS monitor/printer and save the hassle, calibration is old hat now with modern monitors its only those sticking with the old ways calibrate anyway.I spent a good couple of days and no end of photo paper to get just one decent print which I could have produced far easier by other means
 
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Why would you do that every two or thwee weeks? Only monitor profiles need to be done regularly! Once you have a printer profile it should remain consistent all the time you use the same ink/paper combo ;)
 
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It needs recalibrating each time with different ambient light.


You don't need to reset the printer driver in different light? Doing so will provide different results. Profile in a consistent neautral ambient light. When ambient is different your screen monitor may appear different but the print profile will remain unchanged and should be perfectly consistent. After calibration the first time, ambient no longer has any impact on the printer profile.
 
Why would you do that every two or thwee weeks? Only monitor profiles need to be done regularly! Once you have a printer profile it should remain consistent all the time you use the same ink/paper combo ;)

exactly quote "all the time you use the same ink/paper combo" unquote, therein lies just one of the problems I mentioned, glad you agree and ambient light makes the need for calibration the monitor each time and in turn the printer to match. If my memory is correct in the manual they mention about calibration for ambient light. So if you don't want to do that either work in daylight or at night to save having to alter anything.

Lets put it this way. if you have a half decent dedicated photographic computer and a decent printer to match you can throw calibration out of the widow. Ok it might mean a special computer one off build like mine ,( expect to pay anything from £2500/3000 for the computer components alone, excluding build costs and shop addons, and several hundreds for a good topflight printer)
With regard to a computer build my son and and I spent 3/4 months hand picking componants which he assembled for me
What many forget is they go and buy several thousand pounds worth of camera and lenses (mine is a miserly £10,000+ worth) and then try and print out on and with equipment that isn't up to the standard of their gear.
most I suspect go into one of these well known computer shops and buy off the counter within a price limit not considering what they want the computer mainly for and shop assistants arn't that well clued up anyway as long as they can flog something they will sell you anything
 
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Bazza, I'm not saying you need to recalibrate every time the light changes.

I totally disagree however that you don't need to calibrate - unless you are just very lucky. I have very decent monitors and a very decent PC. But they need calibrated - Even the top of the range Eizo's need calibrated.

The PC doesn't actually matter - it's the display that is critical in the path. I have a top flight printer - again critical to calibrate for each paper type - You can use the generic ones but they are not great and custom profiles will provide a better result.

You could just send the paper away once to your paper provider who will provide an exact profile for your system (GFotospeed and Permajet do this free for their papers). No need to worry about the ambient light ever for your printer profile.

So I disagree with the comments you make regarding profiling - But agree getting good components will make a difference.

Regards
Jim
 
Jim

I can only say as I find obviously, I have to disagree however about the PC ,if you have a crap engine in a car no matter how its polished up outside it won't work properly. Its the same with computers it doesn't have decent guts then don't expect decent results no matter how good a monitor is. Everyone has their own ideas and the to calibrate or not to calibrate is as old as the hills.
years ago I had a car that needed a new engine so the garage put one in, next the strain on the gearbox was too much and failed so replaced that, next was the rear crown wheel and pinion on the back axle failed.
Its no good having just one item like a monitor if nothing else balances with it, sequence should be good PC to good monitor to good printer. If all work in tandem then no need to calibrate. I am not saying don't set up a printer as there is sufficient information built in to allow for most situations and adjustments anyway.
I see your using an Epson 2400 printer which no doubt was good in its day but if I may suggest taking a look at the Epson Expression XP-950. I have just recently bought one for when I move house shortly. Its an A3 printer but only a little bigger than an A4 printer at around £250 mark and new on the market AUG 2013. my existing Epson Stylus photo PX710W will be just a backup and my other onethe Epson XP750 I am giving to ER indoors so she has a printer as well
 
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Jim

I can only say as I find obviously, I have to disagree however about the PC ,if you have a crap engine in a car no matter how its polished up outside it won't work properly. Its the same with computers it doesn't have decent guts then don't expect decent results no matter how good a monitor is. Everyone has their own ideas and the to calibrate or not to calibrate is as old as the hills.
years ago I had a car that needed a new engine so the garage put one in, next the strain on the gearbox was too much and failed so replaced that, next was the rear crown wheel and pinion on the back axle failed.
Its no good having just one item like a monitor if nothing else balances with it, sequence should be good PC to good monitor to good printer. If all work in tandem then no need to calibrate. I am not saying don't set up a printer as there is sufficient information built in to allow for most situations and adjustments anyway.
I see your using an Epson 2400 printer which no doubt was good in its day but if I may suggest taking a look at the Epson Expression XP-950. I have just recently bought one for when I move house shortly. Its an A3 printer but only a little bigger than an A4 printer at around £250 mark and new on the market AUG 2013. my existing Epson Stylus photo PX710W will be just a backup and my other onethe Epson XP750 I am giving to ER indoors so she has a printer as well

Let's put it this way - I don't need a Ferrari to drive to supermarket or the next town. In fact my pretty ordinary cheap car does the better job transporting my shopping :) Same goes for PCs. Most half decent ones will do a perfect job sending a digital video signal, but the top ones will be great for playing taxing games or high end video editing (irrelevant for photo). There we are. A monitor and software are more important - but here calibration makes a lot of difference.
 
I absolutely agree regards having a quality system,but not just based on colour management. Nothing in your system makes much difference to the colour management (other than the monitor). In fact you shoulld turn off any colour calibration/management your graphics driver does.

The software that controls the colour will run on any system. Having a better graphics card or memory or a better mobo - won't make any difference to the colour display. It will make PC faster, better, will run longer etc..... But other than the monitor it won't help with colour management though.

Regards the printer I actually now use an Epson R3000 (bought earlier this year when the 2400 gave up)! Fantastic printer - I wanted the 3880 but didn't have the space!

I also run two Dell monitors. Dell U2713H (not the HM) and the U2413. Also superb. All calibrated with a colormunki.
 
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I had colormunki photo and quickly got rid of it , terrible bit of useless equipment, printing 2 sample sheets on expensive photographic paper every 2/3 weeks for one reason cost a small fortune,

That was unnecessary. So long as you use the same inks and media, it should be sufficiently accurate... then you print a test strip first before roasting an entire sheet of paper.


second you had to alter your computer profile which sods up the original computer manufactures own

No you don't. You create your own profiles, both for monitor, and print media. The color munki will create a custom .icm profile for your screen, which should automatically be set as the default system colour profile for the screen.. this does not alter, or delete your original profile. The custom ICC profiles for print media are individual profiles you select in Photoshop or Lightroom's output dialogue... nothing has to be set in the computer's OS.


and 3rd you can never ever get an exact copy anyway from screen to printer and one is back lighted and the hard copy isn't.

Sorry, but I can get a perfect match of colour from screen to print. Obviously one is lit and one isn't, but viewing the prints in a proper viewing booth next to my monitor reveals an almost exact match.


One top of that scanning each correctional copy takes for ever unless you have quick drying photo paper and again you have to reset for different papers be it matt or glossy etc. To sum up you actually spend so much time setting up ColorMunki photo and worry about getting it correct it just is not worth bothering with.

Once you've created your profiles for each paper, and assuming you use the same inks all the time, once created, their created. Yeah, if you use 100 different types of paper, you'll have to crate 100 profiles, but assuming most people use around 3 to 5 at most, so what?

Think of it, first you want to print on gloss photo paper, you have to calibrate/profile for that then someone want the same photo in matt so recalibrate yet again.

No you don't. You only have to calibrate once for each media type, and if you want to print on matt, you print using your matt profile, and with gloss you select the gloss profile. With all due respect, it sounds like you're not using the system correctly. You only have to create profiles once in a blue moon, and once created, selecting what profile you print from is as easy as selecting it in your print output dialogue in either LR or Photogshop. All printer's colour management should be disabled... you manage the colours using the ICC profiles only.

So you have to scan for gloss taking 2 sheets of photo paper to do a print then same again for matt and other 2 sheets of expensive photo paper, oh and if you switch on a light start all over again. Opps forgot has to be done on A4 photo paper as well. you are bound to mess up several times before getting it nearly right anyway

Sounds to me like you're making a meal of it. I scanned once, created a profile for each paper I use, and that's it. I've never had to scan again for ages.

Quote from Jim "

My advice is to avoid it like the plague and get a good IPS monitor/printer and save the hassle, calibration is old hat now with modern monitors its only those sticking with the old ways calibrate anyway.

Utter and complete nonsense!! A good IPS monitor means nothing unless calibrated. You simply have no idea what you're talking about, and giving extremely bad advice. High end monitors are designed to be calibrated.. High end Eizo monitors even have built in auto calibrating hardware now. Even the so called "factory calibrated" ones are miles out, and besides, monitors drift with age... a lot! Even if it WERE calibrated well at the factory, it won't stay calibrated. What's your idea of a good IPS monitor anyway? A £300 Dell? Dell's factory profiling is woeful. Last "factory calibrated" Dell I tested had n average Delta E of around 4.. which is pathetic. ALL monitors need profiling. My screen here is pretty much as good as it gets, but without profiling it's terrible. It's designed with the tacit understanding and agreement that it's a professional monitor, and it needs to be kept in calibration... like most precision tools.


I spent a good couple of days and no end of photo paper to get just one decent print which I could have produced far easier by other means

Then you've clearly got no idea what you're doing. You need to go spend some time at a commercial printers.. see how they operate... perhaps tell them "calibration is old hat now" :) How come you spend 2 days a shed loads of paper to get a decent print, and I can just print.. one print.. perfect. I guess I'm not using things correctly then huh...

It does NOT need calibrating each time. Who would invent, and market a system that requires that??? I've calibrated my media and inks ONCE and once only in the past 9 months. Yes, you disable the printer's colour management... of course you do, as you're using an ICC profile to colour manage. Sounds to me like you need to do some research on how to print properly. Unless you change the brand and type of papers you use, or the brand or types of ink, you don't need to recalibrate.

We print around 30 metres of paper a day from 8 separate printers... 5 Epson 4880s, 2 Epson 4900s and an Epson 9900. We've not profiles media since September. We created profiles for each paper type we use (5 different types) and always use original Epson inks. Prints are perfect every time. If a student wants to use their own paper, they can create their own profile for it, and then once created, they can just print using that profile from then on, as we always use the same inks.

Bad workman blaming tools I'm afraid.

Jim

I can only say as I find obviously, I have to disagree however about the PC ,if you have a crap engine in a car no matter how its polished up outside it won't work properly. Its the same with computers it doesn't have decent guts then don't expect decent results

What? An old computer will not effect the QUALITY of your images... it may take an age to process them, but so long as you have a well calibrated screen, there's nothing in the cmoputer that can effect teh QUALITY of them :)



years ago I had a car that needed a new engine so the garage put one in, next the strain on the gearbox was too much and failed so replaced that, next was the rear crown wheel and pinion on the back axle failed.
Its no good having just one item like a monitor if nothing else balances with it,

The age of a PC has sod all to do with anything. Now matter how crap a PC is, it's video output is merely a digital signal.. there's no "quality" loss with an old computer so long as you know your screen is calibrated. It will just do stuff slower and less efficiently.

sequence should be good PC to good monitor to good printer. If all work in tandem then no need to calibrate.

That's the biggest load of nonesnse I've heard on these forums for a while... and there's a fair choice of nonsense to choose from. You clearly dn't understand anything about colour management. ALL monitors will drift out of calibration over time... ALL of them... no matter how accurately calibrated in the factory (which is usually not very well). When I run reports n my own screen it shows the drift starting to happen after 200 hours use... you think it's gonna stay in profile forever.. until you replace it? You're in cloud cuckoo land.

Basically what you're doing is trashing a tried and tested way of achieving consistent colour used by hundreds of thousands of commercial labs and printers worldwide just because you don't know what you're doing.
 
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Have to say I'm 100% with Pookeyhead.
 
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Pokeyhead

What the hell have you got against me, your not the god almighty of photography and you need to wind your neck in.I suggest you join another photographic site where your bully tatics may have more effect. I talk from experience not out of books as you appear to do. You are totally incapable of replying to OP's posting but seem to take great delight in slagging off not just mine but it seems everyone elses replies.

I have already reported you to admin about your conduct previously but as nothing seems to have been done I am forced to post on here instead
If I get banned from here at least you will have to find someone else to assert your knowledge on and you will get out of my hair
 
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Pokeyhead

What the hell have you got against me

Nothing. I don't know you. You're just talking nonsense and giving extremely bad advice to people.


I talk from experience not out of books as you appear to do.


You're experience is clearly one of confusion and inability to use the equipment properly. That doesn't mean you can go off on one advising people not to calibrate because it's "old hat". It's not old hat. It's the only way to consistently get accurate colour in a digital workflow, which is why any professional printer, darkroom or repro house will take colour calibration very seriously indeed.

You are totally incapable of replying to OP's posting but seem to take great delight in slagging off not just mine but it seems everyone elses replies.

I had already replied to the OP in post #4... on December 17th.


Then you barge in after it was revived because of a printer profiling question saying:

"My advice is to avoid it [calibration] like the plague and get a good IPS monitor/printer and save the hassle, calibration is old hat now with modern monitors its only those sticking with the old ways calibrate anyway"

"Lets put it this way. if you have a half decent dedicated photographic computer and a decent printer to match you can throw calibration out of the widow"





Report me all you want... if I see people giving utter [PLEASE DON'T TRY TO BYPASS THE SWEAR FILTER] for advice, I'll say something about it.
 
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Hi Buck

Any further updates on your screen calibrator? Does it work okay with Mavericks?

Thanks
 
Have to say I'm 100% with Realspeed.
Just noted I got the name completely wrong lol

Sorry David, IO should have said 100% with Pookeyhead - edited that...... ;)
 
Been a while since I looked here obviously but Bazza (Realspeed)...... I'm afraid your comments are miles out and I agree very poor advice.
 
I used a Spyder 3 Calibration device before and found it real tricky. It seemed to make the screen white's far too red. I know that you usually notice the difference because it's been "wrong" before, but it was far from what prints come out like. Maybe I just set it up wrong, I don't know.
 
I used a Spyder 3 Calibration device before and found it real tricky. It seemed to make the screen white's far too red. I know that you usually notice the difference because it's been "wrong" before, but it was far from what prints come out like. Maybe I just set it up wrong, I don't know.

What monitor was it, and what operating system were you using?

The Spyder 3 is quite old, and it doesn't work well at all with wide gamut screens.

Some monitors when old also can't be calibrated accurately. Some cheaper screens I've used can't be calibrated either. Some cheap TN panel screens don't calibrate well either.
 
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Thw only display that I have found that comes close to correct calibration, straight out of the box is my Retina MacBook Pro. Apple claim to pre calibrate these machines before they leave the factory, and this seem to be born out by comparing the out of the box profile with the profiled result. ( I believe current iMacs have the same type of calibration applied but I can't confirm this) The gamut of the display is very close to that of sRGB. Apple can do this as the system is completely self contained. Calibration improves the result by about 5% in my case. Every other monitor / computer combination I have ever been involved in requires calibration and profiling to get accurate results, especially if you need to match screen to printer.
 
I don't think it was a fluke, but I will admit I haven't compared other rMBP to verify this. And yes it does need calibrating as time progresses , but then that's something that I'd expect anyway But I was impressed as too how close it was to my calibrated iMac straight out of the box. Even so I'd still calibrate any monitor to get accurate results.
 
Question. I have recently used my Panasonic plasma for PP, calibrated with an i1pro and Calman 5 (use for my home cinema) with an expanded (0-255) colour space to sRGB. I know plasmas are not as accurate calibration wise as an LCD since you can only calibrate to a certain APL using window patterns (which also affects the on screen gamma), however I presume this setup will do until I get my new mac?
 
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i wonder how much of a fluke that was though. as pookey said screens degrade over time so will need some calibration at least moving forward.


This... there's a 5% drift on average every 200 hours of use here... and this is with a £2500 monitor.

Pre-calibrated at teh factory is a gimmick. Monitors do not stay calibrated.
 
Pre-calibrated at teh factory is a gimmick. Monitors do not stay calibrated.
None of my pre-calibrated Dells have matched out of the box. You also have to allow for burn in where colours change over time as components bed in.
 
This... there's a 5% drift on average every 200 hours of use here... and this is with a £2500 monitor.

Pre-calibrated at teh factory is a gimmick. Monitors do not stay calibrated.

Agree that pre calibration at the factory is a gimmick , and yes monitors do drift in time, that's why I calibrate mine on a regular basis.
I only commented that my retina MacBook Pro had a good calibration straight out of the box. It's 20 Months old now and been calibrated a number of times to keep that calibration
 
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None of my pre-calibrated Dells have matched out of the box.


Dell's factory calibration is a joke. I measured it when we got some U2410 screens a while back. Average Delta E was around 4... which is widely acknowledged to be SH1T! LOL

They do calibrate wonderfully though.

If you're serious about accuracy... just invest in a decent calibrator. Color Munki or i1 Display Pro would be my recommendation.
 
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Yup. I have an i1...
 
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