Which Mamiya 67?

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I have decided to buy a secondhand medium format camera for around £500-£600, and fancy either a Mamiya RB67 or RZ67. From what I've read the RZ67 is more accurate in terms of shutter speed but the RB67 is easier to repair if it breaks and cheaper. I wouldbe looking to get a kit with probably the 110mm lens for the RZ or 127mm for the RB.

Does anybody have any advice? Sorry if this has been asked before. Thanks!
 
I went through the same dilemma and went for the RZ67. I'm extremely happy with it, but I'd probably be just as happy with an RB. Another camera I would consider now would be the Fuji GX680, you can get a tidy model for about £600 now and the Fuji lenses are unreal.

Useless response, and probably no help at all no doubt lol.

Either way, good choice :)

Danny
 
Get whichever you can get a better deal on I'd say. Unless you really are bothered by the weight of the RB.
 
The RB is built like a tank, aim for a Pro S as it will be slightly newer than the Pro.. or a Pro SD if you find one at a good price and think you'll want (and be able to afford) the shift lens.

The RZ is lighter and has electronic shutter, which can be an advantage or a disadvantage depending on you point of view.

Stick with C or K/L lenses from the outset. The C lenses are keenly priced in the common focal lengths. At least two 120-backs gives you the benefit of switching between film types on the fly. There are plenty of 220 backs about, but very little 220 film. The Polaroid backs work with Fuji instant pack film and are fun to use.

Price-up buying seperates, there is an abundance of complete kits around but frequently these are more expensive than buying the components together. Although there was a not bad looking kit went up on Ebay the other day, I remember seeing come up on my standard search.

Don't know where you are osh, but of you're in the Norfolk/Cambs/Lincs area we might be able to meet-up so you can have a play with a RB Pro S.
 
Thanks for the advice - it's difficult trying to decide! Thanks for the offer too Alastair, I'm a bit far away (north Wales) but it's very much appreciated!

Can anybody tell me how much I would need to spend for a light meter, and whether I could use a DSLR (or my Fuji X100) to begin with?
 
osh said:
Thanks for the advice - it's difficult trying to decide! Thanks for the offer too Alastair, I'm a bit far away (north Wales) but it's very much appreciated!

Can anybody tell me how much I would need to spend for a light meter, and whether I could use a DSLR (or my Fuji X100) to begin with?
Click to expand...

Yes you can,many people meter with a dslr,and it can prove helpful when learning film :)

Meters range from £xx to £xxxx depending on your requirements, I have a Sekonic 758D, but it's overkill for me. Get a spot meter if you can afford one

You won't go wrong with either an RZ or RB I dont think
 
A cheap Weston Master (£10-25) will do the job under normal conditions, otherwise a simple exposure table and practice will get you close enough for colour negative film under most conditions..


(adapted from the Fred Parker UEC, this is an older version of the one I currently keep in my camera bag)

.. although like Danny, I've also gone for the 758D as it seemed to me to be the best value flash-and-spotmeter available (under £300 new if you're ok with grey imports). I think the L358 can be upgraded with a 1- or degree spotmeter attachment if you prefer to spread payment.
 
Thanks again. How difficult is it to meter with a spot meter? I was hoping to mainly shoot landscape, and from what I've read on the internet a spot meter seems to be the best option. I suppose I need to learn about zone metering, or maybe get a camera with an AE prism. It's quite an intimidating thought going from digital to a system that costs money for every click of the shutter!
 
Mahoneyd187 said:
I went through the same dilemma and went for the RZ67. I'm extremely happy with it, but I'd probably be just as happy with an RB. Another camera I would consider now would be the Fuji GX680, you can get a tidy model for about £600 now and the Fuji lenses are unreal.

Useless response, and probably no help at all no doubt lol.

Either way, good choice :)

Danny
Click to expand...

Just looked up Fuji GX680 on Google - makes the Mamiyas look small!!
 
osh said:
Thanks again. How difficult is it to meter with a spot meter? I was hoping to mainly shoot landscape, and from what I've read on the internet a spot meter seems to be the best option. I suppose I need to learn about zone metering, or maybe get a camera with an AE prism. It's quite an intimidating thought going from digital to a system that costs money for every click of the shutter!
Click to expand...

Operating the meter is easy, getting your eye in to know how the part of the scene you're metering should read for the shot takes practice.. the flipside of the exposure chart I use has a very crude summary of zone metering and an exposure compensation table as a reminder.

To start with, for non-complex conditions, a cheap and simple hand-held meter is enough to get started with.

If I can make the London meet, I'll be bringing an RB67 Pro S..
 
Alastair said:
If I can make the London meet, I'll be bringing an RB67 Pro S..
Click to expand...

Me too :D no doubt at the end of the meet, we will be the ones with ruined backs.
 
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