Which 10 stopper

mxfun

mxfun

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Sean Logie
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Opened one of my Xmas prezzies from my lady wife today,in it was a wee note ... pick what ever lens i want ,to be honest it's not a lens i'm after it's a 10 stop filter .Can anyone point me in the right direction as to which one

Ta for looking :thumbs:
 
Mentioned before, £1.50 welding glass :)
 
tomqh said:
Mentioned before, £1.50 welding glass :)
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Can the optical quality be the same as a purpose made stopper :shrug:

I've just fell in....10 stops, have you tried leaving the lens cap on.


D in W
 
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I have the B+W screw in and it does the trick for me. Tried the Weldling glass option but too much post processing for my liking. Plus its not the best quality glass. So why put a poxy piece of glass in front of your quality lens optics. You can get some good second hand deals on the B+W because loads of people move from them to the more popular LEE brand. The LEE brand is argueably a tad better but the waiting list for these can be at lease 8-10 weeks. Dont buy a LEE from eBay, they are selling for really stupid money. Other options could be the FADER option from Lightcraft. They have a variable ND Filter up to 10 Stops

http://www.lightcraftworkshop.com/site/page1000.html

All the best

Pete
 
The choices are:

Screw-in
B+W - a little bit orange. Uncoated. Expensive.
Heliopan - a little bit orange. Coated. Less expensive.
Hoya - a little bit orange. 9-stops. Coated. Very expensive.
LightCraftWorkshop ND500MC - almost neutral, fraction bluish. 9-stops. Multicoated. Cheapest.

Square
Lee Big Stopper - almost neutral, fraction bluish. Expensive. Hard to get.

The LightCraftWorkshops VariND is hopeless with wide-angle lenses. Don't. LCW ND500 is best value, from Premier-Ink, but not all sizes available. Welding glass works, but is really hard work faffing about.
 
ended up getting a B+W 77mm from WHE so hopefully should be here in next couple of days ,thanks everyone for you're input :thumbs:
 
Now all i need to do is do a wee bit of research on how to get the best out of it .

Anyone have any do's and don'ts regarding this filter
 
Does anyone know if the BW 77mm (10 stop) has front filter threads to mount ND Grad Filter brackets?

Also has anyone used it at 10mm, are there any vignette issues?

cheers

Andy
 
mxfun said:
Now all i need to do is do a wee bit of research on how to get the best out of it .

Anyone have any do's and don'ts regarding this filter
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There are lots of threads on using these things. On tip that you might forget is to cover the viewfinder eyepiece during the exposure - light gets in there and can cause streaking and fogging.

AndyB1976 said:
Does anyone know if the BW 77mm (10 stop) has front filter threads to mount ND Grad Filter brackets?

Also has anyone used it at 10mm, are there any vignette issues?

cheers

Andy
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B+W has a front thread (LCW ND500MC does not).

I used a B+W on a 10-22 Canon with no mechanical vignetting problems, but you will for sure if you stack a grad in front at 10mm.

However, at very wide angles you do get a lot of optical vignetting with all these filters as the lens is looking through the filter at an angle towards the edges and corners, so the filter is effectively quite a lot thicker and therefore darker.
 
AndyB1976 said:
Does anyone know if the BW 77mm (10 stop) has front filter threads to mount ND Grad Filter brackets?

Also has anyone used it at 10mm, are there any vignette issues?

cheers

Andy
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I use the Heliopan thin mount CP on a Sigma 10-20 when I put a Cokin Z pro mount on the end there was a small amount of vignetting I then removed two of the slide mounts and it dissapeared, perhaps the best option would be the Lee kit with wide angle adaptor.
 
Sean, you might find this table useful according to your metering at your given location.
I sometimes just do a 30sec exposure in daylight and then second guess it afterwards depending on what you get used to.

Unfiltered exposure to 10stop exposure

1/500 - 2sec
1/250 - 4sec
1/125 - 8sec
1/60 - 16sec
1/30 - 32sec
1/15 - 1min
1/8 - 2min
1/4 - 4min
1/2 - 8min
1 sec - 16min
2sec - 32min
3sec - 48min
4sec - 1hour
 
Thanks Richard & Peter for your replies.


Does anyone have a preference over the Cokin Z Pro or Lee Foundation + wide angle adaptor being used on UWAs. Does one or other perform better with regards to build and vignetting? Not too worried about the cost as such, would rather buy the right one first ;-)

Sorry for going off topic,


Andy
 
I haven't seen the Lee & Wide Angle adaptor but people speak well of it I have the Cokin as you can see it's build quality is average and does the job but I want to have a look at the Lee and adaptor and if looks OK I will buy one to use with my Z Pro grads. Yet to find a local store that has one to show me though. Perhaps starting from scratch get the lee holder, I am happy with the Cokin grads and full NDs not seeing any significant cast and anyway I shoot in RAW so if there was it could be removed.
 
Graham00 said:
Sean, you might find this table useful according to your metering at your given location.
I sometimes just do a 30sec exposure in daylight and then second guess it afterwards depending on what you get used to.

Unfiltered exposure to 10stop exposure

1/500 - 2sec
1/250 - 4sec
1/125 - 8sec
1/60 - 16sec
1/30 - 32sec
1/15 - 1min
1/8 - 2min
1/4 - 4min
1/2 - 8min
1 sec - 16min
2sec - 32min
3sec - 48min
4sec - 1hour[/QUOT

Jeez thanks Graham,i've copied and pasted then printed and now it's in my bag :D
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Naith said:
And you end up choosing a FILTER!!! :cuckoo:
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Turns out that she meant filter :bang:.. Anyways i don't need another lens ,happy with what i have..... yep very happy

























Still happy .........nah !!! who needs a new lens anyways






























Eh!!!! i don't:bang:
 
I bought the 67mm Heliopan last week from Teamwork. I paid £65.39 which inc £3.95 1st class rm. The B & W is £69.99 at WHE and theres £3.99 P & P to go on that making it £73.98. Its out of stock there but is available at Whites for £68.91 with similar RM P & P.
I didnt buy it as its the cheapest but went off feedback. I really wanted a Lee but when you factor in the kit etc its about £140 right? The Heiopan fees realy good quality aswell. Hope this is useful to someone.
Phil
 
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I'm waiting for maxsaver's 67mm B&W to get back on stock. Seems to be the cheapest around and I don't mind waiting a bit.
 
GIZTO29 said:
I bought the 67mm Heliopan last week from Teamwork. I paid £65.39 which inc £3.95 1st class rm. The B & W is £69.99 at WHE and theres £3.99 P & P to go on that making it £73.98. Its out of stock there but is available at Whites for £68.91 with similar RM P & P.
I didnt buy it as its the cheapest but went off feedback. I really wanted a Lee but when you factor in the kit etc its about £140 right? The Heiopan fees realy good quality aswell. Hope this is useful to someone.
Phil
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The Heliopan is German made using Schott glass and is extensively used in the film industry and has a very good reputation for quality, I think B&W also use Schott glass as well.
 
petehb said:
The Heliopan is German made using Schott glass and is extensively used in the film industry and has a very good reputation for quality, I think B&W also use Schott glass as well.
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Yeh Pete, i know as i read all the blurb when buying mine. Like i say it feels really good quality and has some weight in it. Th eonly question i have though is if its coated and the B & W isnt what does this mean? Is it better or worse to have a coating?
Phi
 
GIZTO29 said:
Yeh Pete, i know as i read all the blurb when buying mine. Like i say it feels really good quality and has some weight in it. Th eonly question i have though is if its coated and the B & W isnt what does this mean? Is it better or worse to have a coating?
Phi
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Not sure I will tell you in 10 years perhaps:D
 
GIZTO29 said:
Yeh Pete, i know as i read all the blurb when buying mine. Like i say it feels really good quality and has some weight in it. Th eonly question i have though is if its coated and the B & W isnt what does this mean? Is it better or worse to have a coating?
Phi
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B+W is not coated, and the Heliopan is. It's anti reflection coating - usually slighly bluish when you angle it to reflect light off the surface, as camera lenses do. It is a very good feature, reducing flare substantially.

The best filters are multi-coated, which should be even better, tends to reflect greenish.
 
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kendoddsdadsdog said:
If anyone owns an Iphone there is a rather handy app called NDCALC which is a handy tool,even with a countdown timer.
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Don't know if all cameras do this, but with Canons when the shutter speed is set on B, the frame counter will count the seconds - up to 999 I think!
 
I used to use the B+W 10 stop before moving over to the Lee Big Stopper.

The results were very good from the B+W and the only reason I moved over to the Lee system was because I personally found it a little time consuming unscrewing the filter each time I wanted to take a shot.

I did find that mine was more on the side of 11 stops rather than 10.

This was my workflow for using the B+W.

Shoot in RAW

1) Set camera up on tripod
2) Set Camera to Aperture Value Mode and set the desired Aperture (F11 mainly)
3) Compose the Shot
4) Take a note of the shutter speed
5) Turn Camera to Manual Mode
6) Add 11 Stops to the Shutter speed, if this went of 30 seconds, put camera in Bulb Mode
7)Cover Eye Piece and Take shot with either self timer or shutter release cable

After the exposure, study the Histogram more than what you see on the LCD. Try and push the histogram as far as you can to the right without clipping any highlights as this will maintain alot more detail.
 
ianbarber said:
I used to use the B+W 10 stop before moving over to the Lee Big Stopper.

The results were very good from the B+W and the only reason I moved over to the Lee system was because I personally found it a little time consuming unscrewing the filter each time I wanted to take a shot.

I did find that mine was more on the side of 11 stops rather than 10.

This was my workflow for using the B+W.

Shoot in RAW

1) Set camera up on tripod
2) Set Camera to Aperture Value Mode and set the desired Aperture (F11 mainly)
3) Compose the Shot
4) Take a note of the shutter speed
5) Turn Camera to Manual Mode
6) Add 11 Stops to the Shutter speed, if this went of 30 seconds, put camera in Bulb Mode
7)Cover Eye Piece and Take shot with either self timer or shutter release cable

After the exposure, study the Histogram more than what you see on the LCD. Try and push the histogram as far as you can to the right without clipping any highlights as this will maintain alot more detail.
Click to expand...

Ian, how much was your Lee kit in full inc any adapter ring? I find it all abit confusing when trying to see what i need. I know i need the filter and kit but if you get the foundation kit do you need the adapter ring? Is it better to get the next one up as i think this may have the adapter ring in it?
Phil
 
Can someone explain how the wide angle adaptor works as my experience with the Cokin holder is that it is the last two slides on the holder that are the cause of vingetting. I dont see how any different screw in ring is going to avoid this.

Thanks

Pics would be helpfull
 
What do you guys use to block of the viewfinder whilst using the 10 stop ?:)
 
EOS7Pete said:
There is another free app called Longtime Exposure Calculator. Not sure if it has a countdown or not.

Or if you do not have an iphone you could always print this out

http://www.alexwisephotography.net/blog/wp-content/uploads/2010/02/BKS_ND_Chart.pdf
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One way of setting the correct shutter speed is to just count the clicks on the shutter speed dial.

With a ten-stop filter, with the dial set to the default third-stop increments, that's 30 clicks. Provided that doesn't take you over 30 seconds, which is usually the max shutter speed before you need to switch to B.

Check the density of your filter - they are often half a stop or so away from the marked density.
 
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