Hard to be specific on the first one as the EXIF data is not showing up for me. What I can say is that you have a very tough combination of subject and background, with a dynamic range that exceeds your camera's ability to capture all the detail in the highlight areas (brilliant white clouds) and, at the same time, detail in the darker areas of the black traction engine. I guess you're a fraction overexposed for the traction engine, but as you say, the clouds are completely blown. The best bet would be to shoot in raw and to balance your exposure to capture more cloud detail, if that is important. You really need to check your histogram and blinking highlight warnings to look for signs of overexposure and then adjust as required. You can then sort out the balance between light and shade in post processing, once you have captured the basic data you need in your raw file. If you blow anything when shooting JPEG it's gone for good. Shooting raw may let you recover some detail in post. You could also try using a graduated neutral density filter, to dim the sky while keeping the foreground bright, or simply pick a different angle of view, or moment in time, to avoid the brilliant clouds in the background.
On the second shot, it is clearly shot in daylight but you are at 1600 ISO - why? - and are shooting in aperture priority with the aperture (probably) wide open at f/5.6. The poor camera has tried to set the fastest shutter speed it can, at 1/4000, but your settings have spoilt any hope it had to deliver a good result.
Following the Sunny 16 rule, on a bright sunny day (it rarely gets brighter than that) you would use f/16 and 1/ISO as your shutter speed. You can move the settings for Aperture, Shutter and ISO around, so long as you balance out the adjustments. If we compare your settings to the Sunny 16 guidelines....
At f/5.6 your exposure is 3 stops brighter than f/16;
At 1600 ISO your exposure is 4 stops brighter than 100 ISO;
At 1/4000 your exposure is 5 1/3 stops darker than 1/100.
The net result (for a sunny day, in bright direct sunshine) is that your image is overexposed by 1 2/3 stops. I don't know whether your camera has a "safety shift" feature, like the 30D and 40D, but that would have saved you by closing down the aperture for you, despite you setting it to f/5.6.
The real puzzle for me is why on earth did you choose 1600 ISO to shoot in bright daylight? Apart from the degraded IQ that comes with high ISOs, there was absolutely no sense in using 1600 ISO for these conditions. In bright sunlight you'd be fine with 100 ISO. On a cloudy day you may want 400 ISO, or perhaps 800 ISO, if you needed to keep your shutter speed up to freeze action. 1600 is pretty much reserved for shooting indoors, or in miserable conditions outdoors when you still need a fast shutter speed - sports, for example.
