When to/not to use Auto ISO?

[zulupentax]

suppose its waht you get used to, as for not living without it try a nikon

I shoot with a Nikon 5 days a week. Not mine of course , but I think I prefer Canon
At work I get access to the D3s and the D3X besides the D300s of course

 

[scottthehat]

I shoot with a Nikon 5 days a week. Not mine of course , but I think I prefer Canon
At work I get access to the D3s and the D3X besides the D300s of course

wow you prefer the 7d to a d3s that says something.
each to there own i suppose i cant stand the canon menus,

 

[kelack]

To be honest, I read lots of how other people do things. I try some of thier habits/settings/methods. Some I like and use, some I don`t like and forget about. Basically I try differing things but use what works for me.

For example, Andrew raves about 3D tracking, I have tried it on numerous occasions,for what I shoot mainly it is not up to the job. So I don`t use it, but it works for Andrew,if you get what I mean.

I see what you're saying but sometimes you get made to feel belittled by people with more experience. I'm still learning so tend to listen to those who know

 

[scottthehat]

I see what you're saying but sometimes you get made to feel belittled by people with more experience. I'm still learning so tend to listen to those who know

at the end of the day you have to do whats right for you and if it gets the shots then spot on if its not try something differnet, but never give up and never feel put down practice makes perfection.

 

[Tobers]

If you need it, use it. If you don't need it, don't use it. Jeez, how hard can this be?

I've only had the need in the bright sun/dark shadow stadium situation where it is very useful, but still not perfect. You can obviously fine tune with different metering modes (I tend to use centre weighted average in these circumstances) so a dark background with a player in white kit in bright sunshine in front doesn't end up too messy.

 

[zulupentax]

Jeez, how hard can this be?

Hard enough. Get it wrong and you screw up. Get it right and you are surfing.
I for one am still learning to tweak it.

 

[kelack]

If you need it, use it. If you don't need it, don't use it. Jeez, how hard can this be?

I've only had the need in the bright sun/dark shadow stadium situation where it is very useful, but still not perfect. You can obviously fine tune with different metering modes (I tend to use centre weighted average in these circumstances) so a dark background with a player in white kit in bright sunshine in front doesn't end up too messy.

Obviously quite hard for me then

 

[Nawty]

I can't see that if you use P, Av or Tv that Auto ISO is any different in any way whatsoever, in each case you are letting the camera decide the exposure. In years gone past it was an easy decision as to which you let the camera decide but as ISO performance gets better it is starting to make less difference.

Basically, understand your camera, understand how it will expose a situation, understand what settings are critical to getting the shot you want and let the camera choose the rest, sometimes that means you can let the camera chose everything, sometimes nothing.

 

[ziggy©]

I never use auto iso otherwise one day I will get home and wish the camera chose a lower iso.

 

[Nawty]

I never use auto iso otherwise one day I will get home and wish the camera chose a lower iso.

I guess the difference is with pretty much all Nikons you can set the max limit on auto ISO (I think on your camera you can't?). I guess if the tool isn't up to the job you don't use it

 

[fracster]

I guess the difference is with pretty much all Nikons you can set the max limit on auto ISO

Yep. D200 is maxed at 200,300 at 1600 and 700 at 6400. I would rather a noisy shot of a peregrine than a blurred one. So the 700`s rule the roost on that subject.

 

[fracster]

I see what you're saying but sometimes you get made to feel belittled by people with more experience. I'm still learning so tend to listen to those who know

Why feel belittled? The good photographers on here will always help, the wannabee good photographers don`t. Just pick and choose different aspects and see if they work for you.

Nobody knows everything about everything, though it seems that certain individuals on this forum, amongst others defy that belief............

Just use what works for you...............

 

[zulupentax]

The following taken from Ken Rockwell's page about Auto Iso

"Auto ISO

In the early days of digital SLR cameras (before 2004) we had to set ISO manually. We thought it was cool that we could change the ISO with a button instead of having to change a roll of film.

Modern DSLR cameras (Nikons since 2004) can set the ISO for us as well as they set our exposure. This lets me spend more time finding cool things to photograph and waste less time as a potential crime victim stopped and dickering with ISO settings.

Auto ISO, like automated exposure, is the way we shoot today. Screwing with manual ISO adjustments is as pointless as I was 20 years ago jacking around with manual shutter settings on my Nikons.

All or most compact digital cameras have had auto ISO settings as defaults for years."

 

[bigrob]

If you need it, use it. If you don't need it, don't use it.

This is what I am trying to get at when I started this thread. I had read your blog on it and understood that. So I wanted to know if it was useful in other situations.

In your second paragraph

You can obviously fine tune with different metering modes (I tend to use centre weighted average in these circumstances) so a dark background with a player in white kit in bright sunshine in front doesn't end up too messy.

This is excellent EXTRA info - now I need to file that away and TRY and remember it for when I have a need for Auto ISO.

Basically, understand your camera, understand how it will expose a situation, understand what settings are critical to getting the shot you want and let the camera choose the rest, sometimes that means you can let the camera chose everything, sometimes nothing.

That is my Raison d'être for being here on the forum.

I wouldnt even use it for rapid changing lights... it not the changing light that bothers me... AV is safer with only a small fluctuation of shutter speed between clouds and non clouds.

Gracias - another little nugget of info.

If I can put some of these in to practise I may actually improve.

 

[Tobers]

Glad to be of help. Sorry for being shirty, it's just that your simple question seemed to generate a load of unnecessary noise which is what I was getting at.

So - it's situations when there is a massive range of bright light and dark shade that you will find it useful in. Constant even light means manual mode. Changing light (cloud, sun, cloud, sun) means Av if you want an easy life unless you're quick on the dials assuming you remember to twiddle them.

Anyway, no better thing than to get out there and try it. And thanks for reading the blog .

 

[bigrob]

I didn't take it that you were being shirty with me.

Most of on here are wanting to learn (as well as have a bit banter).

BUT now you need to post in my Exposure Compensation thread.

n.b. am liking your "away from the action shots". I can understand how it can become a bit repetitive just shooting the actual action. There is always so much else going in around we can become blinded.

 

[Tobers]

I didn't take it that you were being shirty with me.

Correct

 

[zulupentax]

Sorry but I wouldnt even use it for rapid changing lights... it not the changing light that bothers me... AV is safer with only a small fluctuation of shutter speed between clouds and non clouds... But if the area your shooting in has bright sunlight and dark shadows then its perfect for the sudden change players run into thats far too much for shutter speed H/L paramaeters to handle

Still waiting for the two "never" use it posters to tell me how they would handle that?

This too has been a massive tip for me. I always felt the jitters about shooting outdoors on AV and fixing the ISO thinking that sunlight then clouds and then sunlight again will ruin the exposure if I want a reasonably fast shutter speed. Now reading this I will put it into practise.
Thanks Kipax. This thread has been a great learning spot, well the whole forum is in fact.

 

[KIPAX]

So - it's situations when there is a massive range of bright light and dark shade that you will find it useful in. Constant even light means manual mode. Changing light (cloud, sun, cloud, sun) means Av if you want an easy life unless you're quick on the dials assuming you remember to twiddle them.

Exactly how I would use it... Sorry its the "never" people that really wind me up and then tell me how they prefer to make the decisions over the camera like nobody else can.. Its the speed the camera can make the decision not the decision.. camera can get it wrong.. so can I But in fast sports when a player runs in and out of a dark shadow it doesnt matter how clever you are... you just wont flick any dial quick enough ..

Again for me its whats important.. you can have Aperture shutter or ISO on auto.. they are the three variables ... Shutter speed for me is the most important.. if going from ultra bright to dark then the shutter would be too much of a change... aperture I also want to control so it doesnt go stupid in bright light ...I can let the camera control both in small changes of light... but big changes within a second.. let auto iso do it... If the lighting is constant or changes slow enough then manual mode and set everyhting yourself..

We arn't shooting plant pots on a table

 

[Dave Pickett]

Just to mix things up I use auto ISO on P nearly all the time for equine events. As I see it, I need a minimum shutter speed (normally set 640th or 800th) and keep the ISO as low as feasible. If light is poor the camera uses max aperture first then starts ramping up the ISO. If light is good the camera will give me a higher shutter speed combined with a smaller aperture which means focussing is less critical. This works for me very well, and I dont move much from this unless I want shallow depth of field (Av) or for any reason a faster shutter (Tv) Auto ISO is on nearly all the time, I only take it off when doing landscapes etc.

All we are trying to do is get the combination of shutter speed and aperture that we want and using auto ISO to achieve that, dont see it matters whether you use P A M or S to achive that, as long as you understand what you want!

One thing not mentioned, is that using auto ISO set up as above I can let my wife take my camera and take equine pictures knowing that pretty much whatever the light does the camera will sort it, and she has taken some very good shots set up as above.

One thing that wont work is auto everything mode - really dont know why so many slr buyers that I see only use auto then wonder why their pictures are blurred, I also wonder why manufacturers include it even on quite high end cameras.......

 

[Richard Peters]

Auto ISO is the simgle best feature for me. I have it on 90% of the time when shootnig wildlife with the D3s. I have the camera in manual, so I have full control of the shutter speed and aperture, but I know the camera will select the lowest ISO possible for the desired shutter/Ap I want to use. Simple, and very effective. You can use exposure compensation with it too.

From what I understand, it doesn't work as well on Canon as Auto ISO will use the entire ISO range. With Nikon, you can select the range you want it to use.

Incredible feature if you understand how it works and when it works best.

 

[Tobers]

Just to mix things up I use auto ISO on P nearly all the time for equine events. As I see it, I need a minimum shutter speed (normally set 640th or 800th) and keep the ISO as low as feasible. If light is poor the camera uses max aperture first then starts ramping up the ISO. If light is good the camera will give me a higher shutter speed combined with a smaller aperture which means focussing is less critical.

I use it the other way around as the last thing I want is for the aperture to close down and end up with more depth of field. Subject separation from the background is crucial for what I do. Therefore I also set the aperture min/max to 2.8/4. This keeps the aperture open, keeps the shutter speed at say 1000th in Tv mode, and bounces the ISO for me.

If it's too bright in the sunny areas I'll move the shutter speed up to compensate and ensure that even at the lowest ISO I won't overexpose.

 

[zulupentax]

I use it the other way around as the last thing I want is for the aperture to close down and end up with more depth of field. Subject separation from the background is crucial for what I do. Therefore I also set the aperture min/max to 2.8/4. This keeps the aperture open, keeps the shutter speed at say 1000th in Tv mode, and bounces the ISO for me.

If it's too bright in the sunny areas I'll move the shutter speed up to compensate and ensure that even at the lowest ISO I won't overexpose.

How can I do that with 5D MKII?

 

[bigrob]

If it's too bright in the sunny areas I'll move the shutter speed up to compensate and ensure that even at the lowest ISO I won't overexpose.

Can you explain that a bit more please Tobers?