What stance for steady shooting?

tijuana taxi

tijuana taxi

Suspended / Banned
Messages
15,748
Name
Rich
Edit My Images
Yes
Need some thoughts on the best stance to adopt for steady shooting please

Not being the steadiest on my feet and having bit of the shakes too, would like to hear what you find is the best way to keep still and avoid the blur
(without image stabilisation)

Many years ago I used to do a spot of shooting where the framework of the body supported the rifle
It was a rather strange pose though and something more normal would be good

Cheers
 
Your old shooting stance is probably the best bet for steadiness. You might consider a monopod as well, if it's possible to carry one, Short of that, find walls, seats, lampposts - anything to lean against or rest the camera on.
 
lean on something
legs apart
elbows down
relax
breath out
gently squeeze the shutter

if there is something to prop the cam on...put your hanky under it to protect it
or a beanbag

but...for free standing all the above without lean on something
dont crouch like the movie photographers..it dynamic but not steady

think a karate stance
 
Tripod.

Failing that, elbows down into your chest and push the shutter slowly. Also, I have noticed that I involuntarily stop breathing just before I take the shot.


Steve.
 
Pretty much like the Marksmanship principle (if I can remember them)

Position and hold should be firm enough to support the (camera)

The (camera) must point naturally at the target without undue physical effort

Sight alignment and aim (Composition) must be correct

The shot must be released and followed through without disturbing the position

This is the method I use and it works for me. 24 years in the Army may not have been wasted after all! :-)
 
battery grip

handy for holder craddled against your shoulder. there was a cracking video posted here a while ago about this

also with a mid range lens I bend my left arm and craddle the lens in the crook of my left elbow if I'm shooting with my right hand. works pretty well for 150-200mm without IS

also the correct shutter speed and of course use 2-3 shots so that the 2nd isn't disturbed perhaps by the action of depressing the shutter button..
 
Thanks for the replies, some helpful stuff there

Actually remembered about the follow through advice bit, seems to be crucial in many sports too
Not sure if another shooting tip applies, but the pulling of the trigger was almost
an involuntary surprise action and only happened when your brain said it was the right time (maybe that applies to pressing the shutter too)

Having read the above and another thread thinking seriously about a monopod now, one of those walking pole combined types look handy

Cheers all
 
monopods are useful if you pull down on the straps to steady them
my benbo was brill
 
Most movement comes from shake and tension in your arms. Putting your left hand under the lens, cupping it (thumb forward) holds most of the weight. Brace the top of your left arm against the side of your chest, your pec, elbow in.

If you have shaky hands, press the camera against your nose.

IS makes a BIG difference.
 
My keeper rate has improved since using 'Da Grip'

it makes sense to use 'the marksmanship principles' too, slows you down and makes you think more!
 
I too use a variation of "Da Grip". The sharpness of my shots increased once I started using my left eye to view - there's something more natural about it once you get used to it. I did it about 10% of the time anyway, but reading McNally's "Hot Shoe Diaries" showed me that it was "all right" to adopt it. It basically helps you to steady yourself. Also, when I used my right eye to view, virtually all of my photos were slightly squint - that no longer happens.
 
All good advice. I also use a couple of shooting (firearms) techniques. Squeeze the shutter button, like a trigger, instead of pressing it and place a glove/hat/beanbag, or whatever, between the camera or lens to muffle vibration if you're resting it on a hard surface. I've no idea if this is important, but it does seem to work for me.
 
tijuana taxi said:
Having read the above and another thread thinking seriously about a monopod now, one of those walking pole combined types look handy

Cheers all
Click to expand...

Don't get one of those! They are a compromise at very best! Get a proper monopod and a rubber top to turn it into a walking stick, (THIS) It (monopod) should have a foam handgrip as well, so you can use it as a staff, i have been doing this for years (with the same monopod) Its been up most of the major peaks with me!
 
bbb said:
I lay on the floor a lot when I'm shooting cars, sniper style.
Click to expand...


What... in a ghillie suit and covered in bushes? :lol: :lol:

Sorry, I just couldn't resist it. I'm afraid my sense of humour wins sometimes...

cheers
 
HoppyUK said:
Most movement comes from shake and tension in your arms. Putting your left hand under the lens, cupping it (thumb forward) holds most of the weight. Brace the top of your left arm against the side of your chest, your pec, elbow in.

If you have shaky hands, press the camera against your nose.

IS makes a BIG difference.
Click to expand...

just been reading about that and its possible effect of introducing noise...
is this so
 
If one is a little shaky, why is the recommendation for a monopod over a tripod ? Surely tripod with a remote shutter release would help to negate most of the problems?
 
Had a tripod for ages, but was thinking more of when i'm just out and about

Ordered a Monopod that was mentioned on another thread from 7dayshop, only about a tenner and will give me a good idea whether that's what I want
 
mrcrow said:
just been reading about that and its possible effect of introducing noise...
is this so
Click to expand...

You mean IS?

It does not have any direct affect on noise.

However, it can allow you to use a longer shutter speed, which could in turn to be used to shoot with a lower ISO, thereby reducing noise.

Any image stabilisation system is the same in this respect, either in-lens or in-camera types.
 
I use an air rifle (live in the coutryside so I have permission onto famrers land, I am not a hooligan!!) and have found that by holding your breath half way through exhaling just at the point you want to pull the trigger/take the shot helps massively.
 
tijuana taxi said:
Had a tripod for ages, but was thinking more of when i'm just out and about

Ordered a Monopod that was mentioned on another thread from 7dayshop, only about a tenner and will give me a good idea whether that's what I want
Click to expand...

Thats exactly the one I have! One tip though, remove the 7dayshop logo from the monopod, as it comes of after a short while (when wet!) and puts itty bitty white flaky things all over your gear & hands!!
 
Monopod came today and my first impression is you can't fault it for a tenner posted

Thanks for that tip Wontolla:thumbs: covered the upper section with the logo in self amalgamating tape (great stuff for loads of purposes)

Cheers
 
HoppyUK said:
You mean IS?

It does not have any direct affect on noise.

However, it can allow you to use a longer shutter speed, which could in turn to be used to shoot with a lower ISO, thereby reducing noise.

Any image stabilisation system is the same in this respect, either in-lens or in-camera types.
Click to expand...

:thinking:
i thought in order to avoid shake I/S upped the asa rating...
glad to know it doesnt have any effect on picture quality

i know my place;)
 
mrcrow said:
:thinking:
i thought in order to avoid shake I/S upped the asa rating...
glad to know it doesnt have any effect on picture quality

i know my place;)
Click to expand...

Thinking about this for a second, I wonder if you are referring to some of the 'image stabilisation' claims made by compact camera makers?

I have a recollection that some less reputable makers have claimed an auto-ISO feature to be some kind of image stabilisation system - because it can be used to increase the shutter speed.

Of course that is not the same thing at all, and it would increase noise. Proper image stabilisation systems actually stabilise the image by optically/mechanically counteracting vibration and movement, allowing longer shutter speeds to be used, with no effect on noise.
 
Work your way up, as a shooter you probably L'd the feet, one facing forward other at 90 degrees to brace the body. The upper arms back to the body to reduce strain, and don't try to hold the camera in position for to long.
I have seen described a piece of chord used as an aid, one end fixed to the tripod mount screw in the camera body the other under your foot, you apparently keep a positive tension on the chord which reduces the tendency to shake, anyone tried it?.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top