What menu settings do I need?

Mentalblock

Mentalblock

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Neil
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I've moved in to the world of off camera flash photography and got myself a Yangnuo YN560 and a set of RF-603 wireless triggers.

The problem is I don't know what setting the camera (Nikon D90) should be on.
It has menus for the built in flash and various TTL menus, but which menu/ setting do I need for this flash. As you may expect, the manual only covers the Nikon range which use the D90's in built wireless trigger, which I don't think is compatible with this flash as I think the inbuilt trigger is for TTL flashes.

I'm lead to believe that the flash is not TTL compatible so I know (although I could be wrong!) I need to have it in manual mode. I understand the controls of the flash, but I'm not sure I've got the camera set up properly.

Are there different setting requirements of I have the camera on the camera or triggered through the wireless triggers?

Any help would be appriciated
 
Only have time for a quick response so hopefully a starter for ten.

Camera.
Manual
ISO100
F8
1/125

Flash
1/1

If too bright then either increase aperture setting or lower flash setting, or move flash away from subject.

If too dark then either decrease aperture setting, or move flash closer to subject.

Have a quick go then post up a result with settings, physical setup, and we'll try and help more.

:thumbs:
 
In what conditions are you shooting? Low light, darkness, daylight, studio?

How do you want to use the flash, as primary light source or fill?

It doesn't matter if your flash is TTL or not, the wireless trigger should still trigger it fine. TTL is only for metering the flash output, not for triggering.
 
ohara said:
In what conditions are you shooting? Low light, darkness, daylight, studio?

How do you want to use the flash, as primary light source or fill?

It doesn't matter if your flash is TTL or not, the wireless trigger should still trigger it fine. TTL is only for metering the flash output, not for triggering.
Click to expand...

I guess I hope to use the flash for all sorts of things, fill and primary.
I had a play at the weekend and I'm happy with some of the results.
My main thing is not knowing what I sould have my camera set to, sync speed etc. I'll have to have a good read about this sort of stuff!
 
We find the camera sync speed depends on what you are shooting and the conditions. Typically the sync speed is up to 200th of a sec but each camera can vary. For you own interest look up what your Nikon syncs up to or set up your flash and camera and keep knocking your shutter speed up until you see a black bar appear in your shot. When this happens you have gone above the max sync speed for your camera (the black bar the curtain passing over the sensor).

We do a lot of sports and dance photography in the studio so we want the shutter to be open for as short a time as possible (I know we can argue that the light is only available for 1/4000th of a second so the extra time the shutter is open is irrelivant but we have found that not to be the case for pin sharp fast moving images).

If you are doing moving images I would also recommend setting to rear curtain sync. The means the flash fires at the end of the exposure (just before the rear curtain coveres the sensor) rather than at the start (front curtain sync so at the start of the exposure). Again I have heard arguements that this doesnt have any affect but from experience it does.

Im not going to go into camera setting for exposure etc as its already been covered and its the same thing I would have said!

Best advice is play around!
 
Thanks for all the comments.

I've been reading about flash set up and power etc, just need to find the time to play!

From the sound of things, it dosn't matter what the on camera flash menu says about manual/ TTL, the trigger will trigger the flash anyway and then teh flash will deliver what ever manual setting I've set.

I've read about the rear sync and understand that (I think!).
I'll post some results once I've had a play.

Thanks for teh comments

Neil
 
Second curtain sync just fires the flash at the end of the exposure instead of the beginning. The point of doing that is to capture subjects which are in motion at the end of the motion rather than the beginning if you know what I mean.

With still subjects it doesn't really make a difference unless your flash fires a preflash for metering, the people may believe the photo has been taken and start to move away before the second curtain flash fires.
 
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