What kind of filter for 10-22mm landscape?

Robbo

Robbo

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never done many landscape shots but im due to get this lens soon, and wondered if, at all, any filter would benefit this lens and scenery that couldnt be done in PP?
 
Robbo said:
never done many landscape shots but im due to get this lens soon, and wondered if, at all, any filter would benefit this lens and scenery that couldnt be done in PP?
Click to expand...


The only filter that PP cannot really replicate is a circular polariser
 
markta said:
The only filter that PP cannot really replicate is a circular polariser
Click to expand...

I have never been able to grasp what the circular polarises actually does in terms of changing/helping the image?
 
just the cp, though not cheap for the lens (large front)
 
ND Grad filters.

Look for soft ones if your horizons tend to be undulating or hard ones if your horizons are very flat or for seascapes.

Whilst you can use PP to darken a sky - filters allow you to capture movement in your shots such as waves by using a longer shutter speed without you sky being over exposed.
 
I'm interested in this too. I'm a newbie but am keen on getting into landscapes and whilst I know I should really get the basic skills right before moving onto filters, I like to travel and may not get the opportunities to take many shots twice. I am considering a polarising filter and possibly an ND filter for waterfalls, wild seas etc and also to allow decent shots at non-optimal times of day (not early morning or late in the day).

Any pointers on what to consider including makes without spending a fortune? I anticiapte using them with the Tokina 11-16 I have done a deal on second hand.
 
Robbo said:
I have never been able to grasp what the circular polarises actually does in terms of changing/helping the image?
Click to expand...

A CP is good for reducing reflections in a shot involving streams for eg. What it does is cuts through the reflection on the water surface and reveals details of the stream bed, also enriches blue sky colour if the CP is used at a 90 degree angle from the sun
 
dinners said:
ND Grad filters.

Look for soft ones if your horizons tend to be undulating or hard ones if your horizons are very flat or for seascapes.

Whilst you can use PP to darken a sky - filters allow you to capture movement in your shots such as waves by using a longer shutter speed without you sky being over exposed.
Click to expand...

I have a full set of ND filters at the moment in that size of the 10-22mm.

I am hoping this will be able to produce two pictures and stack if I need to in the case of OE sky etc, and also will give me the change to do longer exposures.

Will look into the soft and hard ones etc, thanks.
 
The CP is very handy for landscapes and can create some nice effects when you're shooting water. You can "see through" the reflections

Whilst you can achieve effects in PP, if you want to stay natural, have a look at the Hitech filters which you can find here, good bang for your buck. These include ND grad filters. Try the hard filters rather than the soft filters which are better for matching horizons.

Sam
 
The problem with a CP on a lens such as a 10-22 is that you will get colour tone with blue skies because the lens is very wide.
Here is an example: http://www.flickr.com/photos/hashcaked/4253380503/sizes/o/

There is no doubt that they certainly are beneficial for landscapes but you would either need to do some work in photoshop or live with it.
Personally I tend to live with it or use nd filtering in photoshop although I havent used ND on this shot.
 
Grads are advisable. There are ways to 'cheat' that I am still doing. 1) Lightroom has software grad filters that are easy to use but limited to about a stop or two before the images fall apart. 2) For long exposures black card or cloth in front of the lens can work wonders with a bit of fiddling. See this example (this would require a very strong grad)

4261631871_be69c4ba46.jpg
 
I would suggest ND grads are must, assuming you will be using the lens for some landscape shots.

Having read many threads on the subject of vignetting with filters on this lens, I can now confirm the following to be my own experience -

With a hoya pro 1 protecter attached to the lens, and then a Cokin P wide holder on my Canon 10-22, vignetting is definitely there at 10mm. It just about disappears at 12mm.
I am unsure if the protecter (which is the slim version) was removed, if the vignetting would still be present. I do not intend to remove it to try as my own thoughts are that the protector is cheaper to replace, than the glass.

I may be wrong, but I would suspect any other makes of holders will have similar results, as the adpator rings are failry thin in the above combination.
Maybe someone that is brave enough to use this lens without a protecting filter, can confirm no vignetting at 10mm.
 
Peter10d said:
Maybe someone that is brave enough to use this lens without a protecting filter, can confirm no vignetting at 10mm.
Click to expand...

I will tell you when it arrives lol I never use filters only my ND ones which is only to get long exposures at the min
 
CP filter and also ND filters are a must. Currently looking to get a ND10 to expand my set.

I have Cokin square filters which i use on my Sigma 10-20. I keep a UV on there at all times (unless using the CP, stack = vignetting) and then use a highly techinical method to attach the square filters. Blue Tac.

Four little blobs on the outer rim of the UV filter and then gently push the square filter on there. No issues with vignetting at the wide end.

It's always worth checking the ads on here for filter systems as they quite often change hands.
 
Wow didn't expect to see that much difference! Hmm may have to invest
 
Which square filter series did you go for - the P- or Z- series? I've got the same lens and also a 300mm with 77mm diameter and a 72mm one too hence wanting the square filters. I guess they're big enough for use at 10mm then?
 
Just an observation from me, but before I got it, I thought I'd use my 10-20 for landscapes mainly.

However - in practice I find that often a landscape looks a little 'lost' in the acres of foreground and sky you get in the frame. It can make the horizon look a billion miles away! That's not to say it's not useful for landscapes etc, you just need to be a bit creative with composition, getting a bit of interest in the foreground etc.

I have found that I use this lens quite a lot though, for all sorts of things because it's just really cool. I love the way it changes perspective. Indoors it's good fun, you can get a whole room in! In a city you can get some great effects with buildings and architecture too. People and animals can look cool too, especially with a bit of flash just as the ambient is starting to drop...

I could go on... but basically for me it's a great fun lens, but not just for landscapes! :)

P.s. I find a polariser gives those weird bands of colour too on this lens, but def invest in one for your other lenses.
 
daugirdas said:
Grads are advisable. There are ways to 'cheat' that I am still doing. 1) Lightroom has software grad filters that are easy to use but limited to about a stop or two before the images fall apart. 2) For long exposures black card or cloth in front of the lens can work wonders with a bit of fiddling. See this example (this would require a very strong grad)

4261631871_be69c4ba46.jpg
Click to expand...

Personally I think just a CP and an ND (such as the B&W 6 or 10 stop) filter are the only ones needed. That way you can reduce reflection and increase sky and other colour with the CP and you can extend the shutter speed with the ND for longer exposures.

I don't agree that ND grads are important for landscape shots with digital post processing however. I looked into getting a set a while back but after some research realised they were of no benefit in almost every occasion (WRT landscapes at least). They cost money and are an extra thing to carry for one; two, unlike digital grads, whether you have a soft or hard grad you will only be able to use them in a straight line (whether that is horizontal/vertical or diagonal) and in most cases that causes issues with the shot as you end up with dark mountains and trees above the grad. With a digital grad you can cut round these features and only darken what you want to darken, making it look far more natural..

The big issue with Digital however, like daugirdas said, is that there is only so far you can push an exposure with one shot. Most of the time you are probably only looking to change the exposure around a stop, which is usually to decrease exposure, and with a RAW image and merging two exposures from the RAW you aren't going to have much of an issue with it. For those shots where the exposure difference is more than a shot or two you'll just need to bracket and take two or three shots, exposing for the sky and foreground, merging them together in the final shot. This is why I think grads are less needed in landscapes than other forms of photography, landscapes are broadly static scenes and you'll probably be using a tripod anyway so there is no issue in taking a couple of shots of the scene instead of one. Without a tripod I normally just bracket the shot and set it to continuous shooting, stand and hold down button and you get 3 exposures to choose from within a second.

I'll probably get shot down for this suggestion but that is what I think. I haven't yet thought "damn I should have bought those grads"...:lol::)
 
My standard polarizer example shot, guess which bit was using the filter....

polarizer.jpg
 
Robbo- I have the 10-22 and love it, however I have no filters for it yet as not been able to find a definite answer as to whether or not they will vignette at 10mm! I would like some ND's for it as minimum aperture isn't small enough to get long shutter speeds in, also a CPL would be nice but I'm guessing it would need to be bigger with a step up ring to avoid vignetting, maybe the same with the ND's.
 
I agree with all that's been said - nd's, grads and a CP.

However, at 10mm with a CP you can get alot in the frame, so for some landscape shots with alot of sky, due to the angles you might end up
with some of the sky polarized and other areas not (rather than the even coverage as you'd hope for). Just be aware of the limitations at 10mm. It is really a cool focal length to play with!
 
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